Xenon High beams
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
Xenon High beams
I was just testing my new headlight setup with 35W philips 85126 with OEM Hella gen3 ballast and the fuse melted 3 seconds after powering on the high beam.
Looking at the fuse chart there are one fuse for each high beam. they are 7,5A. and there are one fuse for each low beam, they are 15A.
So the question sounds, are the wires to the high beams smaller than the wires to the low beams? I have xenon low beams equipped from factory. I guess I can just put in 15A fuses if the wires are the same...
Looking at the fuse chart there are one fuse for each high beam. they are 7,5A. and there are one fuse for each low beam, they are 15A.
So the question sounds, are the wires to the high beams smaller than the wires to the low beams? I have xenon low beams equipped from factory. I guess I can just put in 15A fuses if the wires are the same...
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From: Seattle WA
99 E320
dbl check your wiring. all I did was to spice in the solenoid wires into the
high beam. so the resulting and additional load should be low, ie the
added load should only be the relay clicking and opening the cutoff shield.
....right? or am I not thinking clearly while at work ?
high beam. so the resulting and additional load should be low, ie the
added load should only be the relay clicking and opening the cutoff shield.
....right? or am I not thinking clearly while at work ?
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
Actually what I meant was xenon in the dedicated high beams.... The bi-xenons works perfect, but I had a spare set of ballasts and bulbs, so I thought why the hell not..
But I think it's a better idea to stretch a new wire from the positive terminal and add it to a relay to reduce load when I have to turn the high beams on and off several times in a short period of time.. Then I'll just add a resistor to the high beam wires to bypass the bulb warning..
How much current do the ballast draw when heating the bulb by the way?
But I think it's a better idea to stretch a new wire from the positive terminal and add it to a relay to reduce load when I have to turn the high beams on and off several times in a short period of time.. Then I'll just add a resistor to the high beam wires to bypass the bulb warning..
How much current do the ballast draw when heating the bulb by the way?
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Run the high beam off
the pos output from the alternator.Much shorter run and wired to a dedicated relay you will be pumping full 14 volts to the beams.
www.danielsternlighting.com has a pretty good schematic of the routing.
www.danielsternlighting.com has a pretty good schematic of the routing.
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
I was thinking of the positive terminal under the hood.. I would think that is a bit easier than connecting to the alternator.. And I guess the results will be the same. Haven't had a good look at the wiring in this car, but I would guess the terminal is connected directly to the alternator, not via the battery as there's only one big wire connected to the battery.
But will higher voltage make any difference for the xenons? I thought the ballast was limiting the power as it's supposed to run at 9-16Volts... then 16Volts would mean 46W if it was a resistive load, which it ain't, but you see my point.
But I think I'll rewire the headlights and add some resistors. How often does a xenon bulb burn out anyways? For my headlights I really don't need the bulb warning, as I am awake enough to actually see when there is light missing in front of me... I don't understand how people doesn't notice...
But will higher voltage make any difference for the xenons? I thought the ballast was limiting the power as it's supposed to run at 9-16Volts... then 16Volts would mean 46W if it was a resistive load, which it ain't, but you see my point.
But I think I'll rewire the headlights and add some resistors. How often does a xenon bulb burn out anyways? For my headlights I really don't need the bulb warning, as I am awake enough to actually see when there is light missing in front of me... I don't understand how people doesn't notice...
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
They
last a good while,and at the price they should last for years
Post under hood goes to battery that is why it is not only used for jump starting but also key out the best charging point for a discharged battery.
I don't think I would try to run a hid system off of it.
Post under hood goes to battery that is why it is not only used for jump starting but also key out the best charging point for a discharged battery.
I don't think I would try to run a hid system off of it.
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
Actually what I meant was xenon in the dedicated high beams.... The bi-xenons works perfect, but I had a spare set of ballasts and bulbs, so I thought why the hell not..
But I think it's a better idea to stretch a new wire from the positive terminal and add it to a relay to reduce load when I have to turn the high beams on and off several times in a short period of time.. Then I'll just add a resistor to the high beam wires to bypass the bulb warning..
How much current do the ballast draw when heating the bulb by the way?
But I think it's a better idea to stretch a new wire from the positive terminal and add it to a relay to reduce load when I have to turn the high beams on and off several times in a short period of time.. Then I'll just add a resistor to the high beam wires to bypass the bulb warning..
How much current do the ballast draw when heating the bulb by the way?
I would bench test it with an in-line fuse, maybe a 10 amp fuse will carry it. One thing I worry about is that it took 3 seconds to blow the 7.5, HIDs initial load is the highest once the arc is struck the load goes way down.
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
The reason why the fuse doesn't melt immediately is because the ignition current isn't enough to melt it alone. But if the current is still over or close to 7,5A after those 2-3 seconds it will then get warm enough to melt. Actually the current doesn't need to be over 7,5A for the fuse to melt if the ignition current warms it just up to the point of melting. I'm an electrician..
The nominal power here is 35W + loss =about 40-45W. This means nominal current will be about 3,5A. As long as the bulb is getting heated the ballast will draw more than nominal power, how much I don't know, but I would think its more than a 55W tungsten bulb would draw. There is probably a reason for equipping the low beams with 15A fuses.
This was a hella ballast, it may draw more current than other ballasts as it heats the bulbs faster.
The nominal power here is 35W + loss =about 40-45W. This means nominal current will be about 3,5A. As long as the bulb is getting heated the ballast will draw more than nominal power, how much I don't know, but I would think its more than a 55W tungsten bulb would draw. There is probably a reason for equipping the low beams with 15A fuses.
This was a hella ballast, it may draw more current than other ballasts as it heats the bulbs faster.
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
I just tested my new high beams, Awesome! Pulled a wire from one of the original high beams into the the car, connected it to a switch, connected that one to relays and took the power from the terminal under the hood. I don't see any problems with that. It's equipped with a 150A fuse, so it's probably made to take some power out of it. the underhood fuses is supplied from it too.
So when driving with much oncoming traffic I turn off the switch and use only the bi-xenon projectors. and when I'm alone I turn on the switch and make the night become day
So when driving with much oncoming traffic I turn off the switch and use only the bi-xenon projectors. and when I'm alone I turn on the switch and make the night become day
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
Haven't been able to fully test them yet but it looked very good yesterday.
I'm getting my headlights properly aimed at the dealer today, and then we'll see
This is at least a whole new world compared to the oem headlights. They were crap
I'm getting my headlights properly aimed at the dealer today, and then we'll see
This is at least a whole new world compared to the oem headlights. They were crap
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1997 E320
it does not seem practical for high beams to be HID unless you only use them for long periods of time. If you ever want to flash your high beams to signal someone on the road it is going to shorten the life time with all the start ups and they don't even get that bright until 5-15 seconds after. just a thought.
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1997 E320
I just tested my new high beams, Awesome! Pulled a wire from one of the original high beams into the the car, connected it to a switch, connected that one to relays and took the power from the terminal under the hood. I don't see any problems with that. It's equipped with a 150A fuse, so it's probably made to take some power out of it. the underhood fuses is supplied from it too.
So when driving with much oncoming traffic I turn off the switch and use only the bi-xenon projectors. and when I'm alone I turn on the switch and make the night become day
So when driving with much oncoming traffic I turn off the switch and use only the bi-xenon projectors. and when I'm alone I turn on the switch and make the night become day
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
I'm an electrician, I know what I'm doing. I have one 15A fuse for each ballast and wired with 2,5mm^2
The point with that 150A fuse was that ohlord said I shouldn't run the ballasts from the terminal under the hood, but with a 150A fuse in there it should be able to deliver power to a couple of headlights.
here are some pictures from this evening. It's snow, so the light looks a bit better than what you can expect when there's no snow, or when it's raining.
The pictures weren't the best I've seen. I probably got the focus point of the camera somewhat wrong...
The car. Low beams off. Camera flash is on (it was totally dark outside)
Low beam
Projector high beam, same view
Full high beam, same view. Distance in view is almost 300meters. There is a house in the middle of the view (you may not see it), almost 300meters away. I can clearly see the red color and the windows on that house. It doesn't come forward on the picture though
Full high beam, distance in view is well over 300meters. not able to measure accurately, but from the looks compared to measured distances I would say about 350.
The point with that 150A fuse was that ohlord said I shouldn't run the ballasts from the terminal under the hood, but with a 150A fuse in there it should be able to deliver power to a couple of headlights.
here are some pictures from this evening. It's snow, so the light looks a bit better than what you can expect when there's no snow, or when it's raining.
The pictures weren't the best I've seen. I probably got the focus point of the camera somewhat wrong...
The car. Low beams off. Camera flash is on (it was totally dark outside)
Low beam
Projector high beam, same view
Full high beam, same view. Distance in view is almost 300meters. There is a house in the middle of the view (you may not see it), almost 300meters away. I can clearly see the red color and the windows on that house. It doesn't come forward on the picture though
Full high beam, distance in view is well over 300meters. not able to measure accurately, but from the looks compared to measured distances I would say about 350.
Last edited by Semikolon; Nov 21, 2008 at 04:46 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
4matic? nooo, its a 220tdta+
(the diesels never came with 4matic for some weird reason)
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From: Norway
2001 E220T CDI Avantgarde, 2002 E55T AMG
A small update. The red line is a left turn. Measured to 400 meters away. I could clearly see the road all the way. Doesn't come forward on the picture though.
