Removing passenger rear door panel
Removing passenger rear door panel
Hi,
Is there a DIY or a link to remove the rear door panel to replace the power window motor for 98 E320?
I really don't want to task this w/o documentation, I have been know to break things as I take them apart.
usaims
Is there a DIY or a link to remove the rear door panel to replace the power window motor for 98 E320?
I really don't want to task this w/o documentation, I have been know to break things as I take them apart.
usaims
Ok, get yourself a panel remover tool, or the wedge that MB uses in the video.
1. Lower window if you can
2. Unscrew lock pin
3. On the bottom of the panel, find the puddle light, pry out from either side, and remove electrical connectors.
4. Pry the door handle plastic surround (the plastic part around the chrome handle) off starting from the wood area.
5. Down in the middle of the panel, there is a plastic button cap. Remove it.
6. Remove the screws uncovered by steps 4 and 5.
7. By the latch, remove the screw that holds the plastic surround on.
8. Remove the tab on the airbag that says "SRS/AIRBAG". It just prys out.
9. Remove screw uncovered by step 8.
10. Use your panel tool to get between the panel and the metal door along the bottom and pull out until the clips release. Then just work it around the edges until all are off.
11. If you have the window down, slide the tool above the rubber, but under the vinyl on the top of the door panel, from the outside (it makes sense when you look at it). There are 3 or four clips along the top. Once all of them are off, the panel is loose.
12. Pull off the door handle cable, and undo all electrical connectors (one to DCM, one to handle light, and just route the wires out for the puddle light.
13. remove panel.
14. Fix motor
15. Install is reverse of removal.
While this sounds complicated, with some practice, it takes less than 10 minutes.
1. Lower window if you can
2. Unscrew lock pin
3. On the bottom of the panel, find the puddle light, pry out from either side, and remove electrical connectors.
4. Pry the door handle plastic surround (the plastic part around the chrome handle) off starting from the wood area.
5. Down in the middle of the panel, there is a plastic button cap. Remove it.
6. Remove the screws uncovered by steps 4 and 5.
7. By the latch, remove the screw that holds the plastic surround on.
8. Remove the tab on the airbag that says "SRS/AIRBAG". It just prys out.
9. Remove screw uncovered by step 8.
10. Use your panel tool to get between the panel and the metal door along the bottom and pull out until the clips release. Then just work it around the edges until all are off.
11. If you have the window down, slide the tool above the rubber, but under the vinyl on the top of the door panel, from the outside (it makes sense when you look at it). There are 3 or four clips along the top. Once all of them are off, the panel is loose.
12. Pull off the door handle cable, and undo all electrical connectors (one to DCM, one to handle light, and just route the wires out for the puddle light.
13. remove panel.
14. Fix motor
15. Install is reverse of removal.
While this sounds complicated, with some practice, it takes less than 10 minutes.
Correct, the power window on that door is not working, I'm going to replace it. I finally found the video; the person on the video used special tools, one to unscrew something and the other to pry the panel out.
Do I need these tools and where is the cheapest place to buy them?
Thanks again!
Do I need these tools and where is the cheapest place to buy them?
Thanks again!
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,171
Likes: 16
300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Screw drivers
and a broad piece of plastic or tape covered thin screw driver wedge.Easy to unscrew and pry off fro one corner at the bottom edge of the door and then just work your hands around popping off the plastic fasteners.What makes you think it is the motor and not the pse or the regulator?

have you tried the switch on the console and the switch on the door?
If you really must have plastic wedges and panel tools harborfreight has nice little sets.
Most of the mb stuff is snap and play.just remember or take a picture of where all the little lights plug back in and where the cable fits into the slide fitting.Also check 18 and 3 and 2 and 3 fuses depending which rear window is dead,might be just a bad fuse.
Those fuse #'s are for a 99 your fuse charts should be with the battery,and with the fuse box next to the steering wheel and under the fuse box in the engine compt.

have you tried the switch on the console and the switch on the door?
If you really must have plastic wedges and panel tools harborfreight has nice little sets.
Most of the mb stuff is snap and play.just remember or take a picture of where all the little lights plug back in and where the cable fits into the slide fitting.Also check 18 and 3 and 2 and 3 fuses depending which rear window is dead,might be just a bad fuse.
Those fuse #'s are for a 99 your fuse charts should be with the battery,and with the fuse box next to the steering wheel and under the fuse box in the engine compt.
no, there isn't. there are securing clips inside the panel which can only be
accessed from the inside. removing the door panel takes single digit minutes.
triple this and you'll have a good idea of the complexity for first timers. after
that, it will definitely be < 10 mins
accessed from the inside. removing the door panel takes single digit minutes.
triple this and you'll have a good idea of the complexity for first timers. after
that, it will definitely be < 10 mins
and a broad piece of plastic or tape covered thin screw driver wedge.Easy to unscrew and pry off fro one corner at the bottom edge of the door and then just work your hands around popping off the plastic fasteners.What makes you think it is the motor and not the pse or the regulator?

have you tried the switch on the console and the switch on the door?
If you really must have plastic wedges and panel tools harborfreight has nice little sets.
Most of the mb stuff is snap and play.just remember or take a picture of where all the little lights plug back in and where the cable fits into the slide fitting.Also check 18 and 3 and 2 and 3 fuses depending which rear window is dead,might be just a bad fuse.
Those fuse #'s are for a 99 your fuse charts should be with the battery,and with the fuse box next to the steering wheel and under the fuse box in the engine compt.

have you tried the switch on the console and the switch on the door?
If you really must have plastic wedges and panel tools harborfreight has nice little sets.
Most of the mb stuff is snap and play.just remember or take a picture of where all the little lights plug back in and where the cable fits into the slide fitting.Also check 18 and 3 and 2 and 3 fuses depending which rear window is dead,might be just a bad fuse.
Those fuse #'s are for a 99 your fuse charts should be with the battery,and with the fuse box next to the steering wheel and under the fuse box in the engine compt.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,171
Likes: 16
300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
usaims
either the regulator,diy on benzworld.org w210 section or the cable.
Make sure when you peel off the plastic sheet beneath the panel you take pictures or draw a diagram for when you put it back together.Or remove the other door panel and compare the workings.Just don't bust nottin.
Make sure when you peel off the plastic sheet beneath the panel you take pictures or draw a diagram for when you put it back together.Or remove the other door panel and compare the workings.Just don't bust nottin.
I took off the panel and noticed that the cable barely moves when I press on the window switch; it produces a grindy noise. I stuck my hands inside the door panel and noticed that the cable is broken at the end where there is a spring. Correct me if I am wrong but I think all I need to do is buy a regulator and replace it. Could the grindy noise be an indication of a bad window motor as well?
I took off the panel and noticed that the cable barely moves when I press on the window switch; it produces a grindy noise. I stuck my hands inside the door panel and noticed that the cable is broken at the end where there is a spring. Correct me if I am wrong but I think all I need to do is buy a regulator and replace it. Could the grindy noise be an indication of a bad window motor as well?
Good luck.







