E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

Removing passenger rear door panel

Old Feb 25, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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98 e320
Removing passenger rear door panel

Hi,

Is there a DIY or a link to remove the rear door panel to replace the power window motor for 98 E320?

I really don't want to task this w/o documentation, I have been know to break things as I take them apart.

usaims
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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http://w210.pietrzyk.net/

great video(s) here showing disassembly
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Incredible site, I see that I'm going to save hundreds, even thousands of dollars of repair because of this site, thank you.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:38 PM
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Umm, I don't see the video on how to remove the rear passenger side door panel, can you send a quick link?
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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The door panel R&R is quite simple. There's just a few screws to remove. Did your motor go out or are you replacing it for another reason?
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:10 PM
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Ok, get yourself a panel remover tool, or the wedge that MB uses in the video.

1. Lower window if you can
2. Unscrew lock pin
3. On the bottom of the panel, find the puddle light, pry out from either side, and remove electrical connectors.
4. Pry the door handle plastic surround (the plastic part around the chrome handle) off starting from the wood area.
5. Down in the middle of the panel, there is a plastic button cap. Remove it.
6. Remove the screws uncovered by steps 4 and 5.
7. By the latch, remove the screw that holds the plastic surround on.
8. Remove the tab on the airbag that says "SRS/AIRBAG". It just prys out.
9. Remove screw uncovered by step 8.

10. Use your panel tool to get between the panel and the metal door along the bottom and pull out until the clips release. Then just work it around the edges until all are off.

11. If you have the window down, slide the tool above the rubber, but under the vinyl on the top of the door panel, from the outside (it makes sense when you look at it). There are 3 or four clips along the top. Once all of them are off, the panel is loose.

12. Pull off the door handle cable, and undo all electrical connectors (one to DCM, one to handle light, and just route the wires out for the puddle light.

13. remove panel.

14. Fix motor

15. Install is reverse of removal.

While this sounds complicated, with some practice, it takes less than 10 minutes.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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Correct, the power window on that door is not working, I'm going to replace it. I finally found the video; the person on the video used special tools, one to unscrew something and the other to pry the panel out.

Do I need these tools and where is the cheapest place to buy them?

Thanks again!
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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Screw drivers

and a broad piece of plastic or tape covered thin screw driver wedge.Easy to unscrew and pry off fro one corner at the bottom edge of the door and then just work your hands around popping off the plastic fasteners.What makes you think it is the motor and not the pse or the regulator?

have you tried the switch on the console and the switch on the door?
If you really must have plastic wedges and panel tools harborfreight has nice little sets.
Most of the mb stuff is snap and play.just remember or take a picture of where all the little lights plug back in and where the cable fits into the slide fitting.Also check 18 and 3 and 2 and 3 fuses depending which rear window is dead,might be just a bad fuse.
Those fuse #'s are for a 99 your fuse charts should be with the battery,and with the fuse box next to the steering wheel and under the fuse box in the engine compt.
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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i used a large spatula - nice firm rubber on a stiff plastic handle. worked great for all four doors and snuck it back into the kitchen
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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Kind of related, I have a bad power window switch in the rear driver side door. Is there any way to get the switch itself out without taking the entire door panel apart?

Thanks!

BT
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 12:50 AM
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no, there isn't. there are securing clips inside the panel which can only be
accessed from the inside. removing the door panel takes single digit minutes.
triple this and you'll have a good idea of the complexity for first timers. after
that, it will definitely be < 10 mins
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ohlord
and a broad piece of plastic or tape covered thin screw driver wedge.Easy to unscrew and pry off fro one corner at the bottom edge of the door and then just work your hands around popping off the plastic fasteners.What makes you think it is the motor and not the pse or the regulator?


have you tried the switch on the console and the switch on the door?
If you really must have plastic wedges and panel tools harborfreight has nice little sets.
Most of the mb stuff is snap and play.just remember or take a picture of where all the little lights plug back in and where the cable fits into the slide fitting.Also check 18 and 3 and 2 and 3 fuses depending which rear window is dead,might be just a bad fuse.
Those fuse #'s are for a 99 your fuse charts should be with the battery,and with the fuse box next to the steering wheel and under the fuse box in the engine compt.
I tried the switch on the console and window; I hear a grinding noise but the window does not move, once I take out the panel, I should have a better sense of what's going on.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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I don't recall needing any special tools when I did mine, aside from the rivet gun. Now I'm wondering how the heck I pulled it off.
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Old Mar 5, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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usaims

either the regulator,diy on benzworld.org w210 section or the cable.
Make sure when you peel off the plastic sheet beneath the panel you take pictures or draw a diagram for when you put it back together.Or remove the other door panel and compare the workings.Just don't bust nottin.
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by usaims
I tried the switch on the console and window; I hear a grinding noise but the window does not move, once I take out the panel, I should have a better sense of what's going on.
I took off the panel and noticed that the cable barely moves when I press on the window switch; it produces a grindy noise. I stuck my hands inside the door panel and noticed that the cable is broken at the end where there is a spring. Correct me if I am wrong but I think all I need to do is buy a regulator and replace it. Could the grindy noise be an indication of a bad window motor as well?
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by usaims
I took off the panel and noticed that the cable barely moves when I press on the window switch; it produces a grindy noise. I stuck my hands inside the door panel and noticed that the cable is broken at the end where there is a spring. Correct me if I am wrong but I think all I need to do is buy a regulator and replace it. Could the grindy noise be an indication of a bad window motor as well?
You can buy the clip by itself and make it work without replacing the whole regulator. There is a DYI with a link to instructions at the top of the forum page. My guess to the grinding noise is your cable has wrapped around the motor pully. You need to unwind it when you take the door apart. Both of my rear doors did the same. It's really an easy fix.

Good luck.
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