srs passenger seat sensor
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Pass seat ocupancy sensor diy
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98 e320
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From: Mansfield, TX
11 ML350W2 / 17 GLC300
I might add a couple of points. I just removed the seat and replaced the wire from the sensor to the plug. That seems to have solved the problem for now.
You will need an E-14 torx female socket for the seat rail bolts as well as the standard torx T-series male sockets.
It will be much easier if you have someone to help you since the seat is somewhat heavy and bulky.
The plastic covers on the sides of the seat are probably brittle by now so be careful not to crack them. Some of the little tabs will probably break off but that shouldn't be too serious.
The door side seat belt cover pulls out toward the door, not up.
The console side plastic trim is easier to remove if the seat belt socket is removed first.
When removing the seat cover from the channels, start with the back. There is a little clip in the middle that a long thin screwdriver slipped in the channel will help to remove. The sides of the leather in the channnels aren't too difficult to remove but there is another clip in the middle of the front of the seat where the screwdriver will help.
I didn't remove the cover from the pad. I just cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the pad and from the plug. I soldered in new wires to make the assembly the same length, taped the joints, and covered the entire assembled wires with a spiral plastic wrap. I didn't wire-tye the assembly to the metal seat bottom since that seemed to be what caused the issue.
You will need an E-14 torx female socket for the seat rail bolts as well as the standard torx T-series male sockets.
It will be much easier if you have someone to help you since the seat is somewhat heavy and bulky.
The plastic covers on the sides of the seat are probably brittle by now so be careful not to crack them. Some of the little tabs will probably break off but that shouldn't be too serious.
The door side seat belt cover pulls out toward the door, not up.
The console side plastic trim is easier to remove if the seat belt socket is removed first.
When removing the seat cover from the channels, start with the back. There is a little clip in the middle that a long thin screwdriver slipped in the channel will help to remove. The sides of the leather in the channnels aren't too difficult to remove but there is another clip in the middle of the front of the seat where the screwdriver will help.
I didn't remove the cover from the pad. I just cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the pad and from the plug. I soldered in new wires to make the assembly the same length, taped the joints, and covered the entire assembled wires with a spiral plastic wrap. I didn't wire-tye the assembly to the metal seat bottom since that seemed to be what caused the issue.
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From: Long Island, NY
01 E320
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mercedes e430
occupancy sensor
I ended up buying a new grid . I just saw the slice in that wire. I might have tried rewiring but I dont solder. I cant believe that slice. Should be recalled! I got the part at a wholesale cost of 107.00 the hardest part was clipping the leather back to those white clips. Thanks for all the advice. The only question I have left is does that computer need to be reset by a shop or will it recognize the new part.
Thanks
Je5
Thanks
Je5
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From: Richardson, TX
'04 Cobra & '04 S430
Thanks for posting the link Usaims. Just respliced the cable with a CAT6 Cable and put a lot of extra slack between the cushion and the tie. SRS light, after 2.5 years, is finally turning off!
Thanks for the information guys, you guys saved me a ton of $$$$$$ :-)
EDIT: looking at my previous posts, just realized I have been driving with the SRS light on for over 3 years!
Thanks for the information guys, you guys saved me a ton of $$$$$$ :-)
EDIT: looking at my previous posts, just realized I have been driving with the SRS light on for over 3 years!
Last edited by Huachipato; Jan 17, 2010 at 10:55 PM.
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From: Mansfield, TX
11 ML350W2 / 17 GLC300
You probably won't find a cut in the wire. It isn't a pressure sensitive swith. The computer sends a signal through the wire and pad and if the insulation inside allows the wires to "talk to each other" inductively, it thinks there is a problem. I replaced a section of the wire from below the seat up through the hole to the start of the pad. This seemed to work and I didn't have to totally remove the pad.
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John Deere
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From: Mansfield, TX
11 ML350W2 / 17 GLC300
Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures. I will say it is a real pain to remove the seat and then take off part of the leather cover to get to the wire connections on the pad. I followed the pictures and descriptions:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html
You must join benzworld to see the pics but it is free. Also, you will need either the external torx or a multifunction socket to remove the e-torx bolts that hold the seat rails to the floor.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html
You must join benzworld to see the pics but it is free. Also, you will need either the external torx or a multifunction socket to remove the e-torx bolts that hold the seat rails to the floor.
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Philippines
2012 C63 6.3L V8 N/A C204
Do you know which car this passenger recognition sensor goes into?
I have a 2000 CLK 320 and bought this sensor which was said to fit my passenger seat but apparently its the wrong sensor. I have no clue which car this goes into... any clues? If anyone needs it its up for sale.
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From: Philippines
2012 C63 6.3L V8 N/A C204
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2000 E320
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98 e320
Go by the part number that you want to replace. Don't chance it. I did what you did a few years ago and it didn't work. If you can, remove the seat, remove the part that you want to replace. Find the part number and order it. When you do that, you won't fail and if you did, you can tell MB that this is the actual part number and they will have to correct that.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Than most of the failures are broken wire at seat padding.
You can remove the sensor and check it for wire continuity from plug close to the sensor.
2 buck for perfect tool for the job
and no, you don't need DAS for it.
You can remove the sensor and check it for wire continuity from plug close to the sensor.
2 buck for perfect tool for the job
and no, you don't need DAS for it.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Don't think any proffesional shop will do the repair. No profit on parts and risky job for low pay.
They will replace the sensor.
I think your options are dealer, or upholstery shop.
Years ago I used http://tonysupholsteryandcanvas.com/ for upholstery and they did do good job without breaking the bank.
In case you go there - tell them Polish friend of Mirek send you.
They will replace the sensor.
I think your options are dealer, or upholstery shop.
Years ago I used http://tonysupholsteryandcanvas.com/ for upholstery and they did do good job without breaking the bank.
In case you go there - tell them Polish friend of Mirek send you.
