IS ENGINE FLUSH PRIOR TO OIL CHANGE A SMART THING TO DO?
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2001 E320; 2006 Mini Cooper S; 2004 V8 4Runner
IS ENGINE FLUSH PRIOR TO OIL CHANGE A SMART THING TO DO?
2001 E320 APPROX 110k MILES OIL CHANGED REGULARLY ANNUALLY AT 5K MILES..GETTING READY TO DO IT AGAIN AND THOUGHT RUNNING AN OIL FLUSH PRIOR TO CHANGE MAY BE A GOOD IDEA BUT WANTED OTHER MB OWNERS THOUGHTS.
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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
A quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for 500 miles will clean the engine up a bit. You can use kero or diesel or best of all biodiesel for 10 minutes at idle then drain it out.
BG flush is an option if desired. No other solvent flush is worth more than a few bucks, may as well use kero.
BG flush is an option if desired. No other solvent flush is worth more than a few bucks, may as well use kero.
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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Diesel engine oil, like Rotella or Delo can also clean the engine. A quart or two of Redline with it's ester base will help clean if used in the oil for a full change.
I did a lot of FI cleaner, and MMO in the gas, a q of MMO in the oil. Going to add a q of kero at idle for 10 min and drain, then use Rotella for a couple of 6 month oil changes before I go to 1 year on synth. I just got a 2006 500 with 60k, not well serviced.
I did a lot of FI cleaner, and MMO in the gas, a q of MMO in the oil. Going to add a q of kero at idle for 10 min and drain, then use Rotella for a couple of 6 month oil changes before I go to 1 year on synth. I just got a 2006 500 with 60k, not well serviced.
#4
I would not do it on my car. The problem is that one never gets all the oil out when it is drained. Even if you get the engine angle so that the pan empties, you still have oil in a cooler and all the oil galleries, which means that some of the flush stays in the engine. I would rather start off with 100% oil.
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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
It's not uncommon for oil to accrue quantities of excess fuel if driven short trips or idles a lot. Light compounds like fuel or flush simply evaporate away.
Kerosene is technically an oil anyway.
Kerosene is technically an oil anyway.
#6
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If you have been changing oil at 5K-miles/"annually" - on the oil side you don't need to do anything different.
At your age/mileage - you should focus on other items for your consideration:
1. Drain/replace coolant - after draining pull thermostat to check for signs of any electrolysis G05 or MB coolant - if diluting concentrate use distilled water only
2. Time for fresh plugs - OE type only - due to time and mileage -
3. Check engine mounts - failed mounts will lead to increased vibration thru exhaust system - in turn which accelerates front cat breakdown - especially on choice/low mileage W210's like yours
4. Begin considering fresh/new MAF/genuine-Bosch-reputable-source only. Brings back original spec
At your age/mileage - you should focus on other items for your consideration:
1. Drain/replace coolant - after draining pull thermostat to check for signs of any electrolysis G05 or MB coolant - if diluting concentrate use distilled water only
2. Time for fresh plugs - OE type only - due to time and mileage -
3. Check engine mounts - failed mounts will lead to increased vibration thru exhaust system - in turn which accelerates front cat breakdown - especially on choice/low mileage W210's like yours
4. Begin considering fresh/new MAF/genuine-Bosch-reputable-source only. Brings back original spec
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I was taking apart 603 diesel engine who run 293,000 miles on dino oils.
Don't know what intervals PO used, but there was no sludge at all. Beside common on diesel gunk in the intake the engine had perfect interiors.
When you do 5000 intervals, you are treating your engine to overdose of detergents and anti-acids.
Don't know what intervals PO used, but there was no sludge at all. Beside common on diesel gunk in the intake the engine had perfect interiors.
When you do 5000 intervals, you are treating your engine to overdose of detergents and anti-acids.
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2001 E320; 2006 Mini Cooper S; 2004 V8 4Runner
If you have been changing oil at 5K-miles/"annually" - on the oil side you don't need to do anything different.
At your age/mileage - you should focus on other items for your consideration:
1. Drain/replace coolant - after draining pull thermostat to check for signs of any electrolysis G05 or MB coolant - if diluting concentrate use distilled water only
2. Time for fresh plugs - OE type only - due to time and mileage -
3. Check engine mounts - failed mounts will lead to increased vibration thru exhaust system - in turn which accelerates front cat breakdown - especially on choice/low mileage W210's like yours
4. Begin considering fresh/new MAF/genuine-Bosch-reputable-source only. Brings back original spec
At your age/mileage - you should focus on other items for your consideration:
1. Drain/replace coolant - after draining pull thermostat to check for signs of any electrolysis G05 or MB coolant - if diluting concentrate use distilled water only
2. Time for fresh plugs - OE type only - due to time and mileage -
3. Check engine mounts - failed mounts will lead to increased vibration thru exhaust system - in turn which accelerates front cat breakdown - especially on choice/low mileage W210's like yours
4. Begin considering fresh/new MAF/genuine-Bosch-reputable-source only. Brings back original spec
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2001 E320; 2006 Mini Cooper S; 2004 V8 4Runner
Oh, failed to mention at idle, warm, I do notice a slight tapping, clicking noise.....probably time to see Messer Motorn Werke my local MB/Mini specialist. Always good to let the experts see the car every 12 - 18 months.
#10
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I think that if more than half of the mileage was produced via highway driving and the remaining mileage was done with the engine a operating temp, you are better off flushing the flush solvent money down the toilet and buying the wife a hot dog. Live long and prosper!
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