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And here's another video this time of the OBDII/torque pro in action. Still figuring out how it works and what it tells you about your car... (and I love how the color of the HU buttons match identically to the car's oem dash buttons...didn't notice that in the first video because the car's lights were off).
Awesome stuff man! I think it's great you were able to split the OBDII port. I'm getting very close to pulling the trigger.
Did you remove your CD Changer? I've come across some information that would allow for a "cubby hole" OEM storage pocket that fits in place of the changer and some other details that would allow for the cover to open in the same fashion. Part of me is also hoping that they release an updated version of the units with the Lolipop 5.0 system as opposed to 4.4. I'll keep checking back for news from you.
Awesome stuff man! I think it's great you were able to split the OBDII port. I'm getting very close to pulling the trigger.
Did you remove your CD Changer? I've come across some information that would allow for a "cubby hole" OEM storage pocket that fits in place of the changer and some other details that would allow for the cover to open in the same fashion. Part of me is also hoping that they release an updated version of the units with the Lolipop 5.0 system as opposed to 4.4. I'll keep checking back for news from you.
The CD changer no longer opens up after I installed the HU. I'm not sure if it has to have the OEM COMMAND for that functionality? I'd love to turn that into a cubby if you know a way?
Yeah, I would think that Lolipop would be out in the next year or so, but I have not heard of anything in that regard.
AM radio works now, my installer used one of his own radio antenna cables ($15). He said mine was faulty.
Phone Bluetooth: No good news. I hear the person crystal clear through the car's speakers, however everyone has told me there is a 1sec echo delay on their end--enough of an annoyance to where everyone said it's unusable. The more research I do on this topic the more I find it can be a host of things, including the phone itself. I have an iphone 6. Even new cars mercs/non mercs can have this issue.
I have tried the following to no success:
1) used the OEM mic
2) used the internal mic that's on the HU
3) used the external mic that came with the HU
4) used an after market Clarion mic (5 star amazon rating)
5) put the mics in different places of the car (above rear view mirror, near tach, between visor and windshield, etc)
6) turned the volume on the HU all the way down (so the speakers are very soft)
7) called friends' cell phones and land lines
------none of these things have made the issue better.
Next I will try to:
1) pair and unpair iphone bluetooth -EDIT: DID NOT HELP
2) update iphone to OS 9.1 -EDIT: DID NOT HELP
3) try someone else's phone paired with the HU
4) ANY SUGGESTIONS????
DVR Cam still not working The red light does not even come on when plugged into the USB slot. Both USB slots give power to charge my phone, so I don't think it's the HU, it's probably the DVR cam that I bought online. Next step is to try to get a replacement or buy another DVR cam. EDIT: SELLER HAS AGREED TO SHIP ANOTHER DVR CAMERA FREE OF CHARGE.
I've been reading on many forums to see if these android HU are plug & play for w211 with NO fiber optic's, I believe my car has no fiber optic, and when I asked the seller about this, they said I don't need any extra wiring. BUT today when I received the android HU and removed the AUDIO 50 APS, now it's confusing because I couldn't see any speaker wires from the backside of AUDIO 50 APS! Only 2 connectors ( power connector and Antenna), so even for cars with NO fiber optic, it's still not plug & play.
can someone help me on how to connect the Android HU ? do I need any adaptors/connectors? please
I've read your post and thank you for all the useful info, but how do you figure 600w RMS for all the speakers and sub? Do you know how many watts RMS the sub puts out? I was originally thinking of getting an aftermarket sub, but now that you say it kicks harder than any sub in the boot, I'm intrigued. Are we talking like bass that can move a piece of paper that you are holding up?
In my previous benz, a 99 e320, I removed the two rear subs, installed an aftermarket head unit into the stock amp, and used a powered 300w RMS sub and it kicked hard in the trunk. I am just wondering if this is really good bass that the sub puts out with the aftermarket amp or if its just a little bit better than stock?
Aya--- Sorry I can't help because I paid someone to install my unit for the most part. Maybe someone else can help you?
Sneerz--- I'm running around 300rms through the 10" factory sub now with my alpine amp set at 1/2 gain. The base hits hard enough to the point where the trunk now needs better insulation to make it sound good. Whenever I turn the bass up too much it rattles everything on the back deck, and ends up sounding not so good. So I think the weakest point for my system now is the rear deck insulation and assembly. The stereo installer agreed for what it's worth.
Aya--- Sorry I can't help because I paid someone to install my unit for the most part. Maybe someone else can help you?
Sneerz--- I'm running around 300rms through the 10" factory sub now with my alpine amp set at 1/2 gain. The base hits hard enough to the point where the trunk now needs better insulation to make it sound good. Whenever I turn the bass up too much it rattles everything on the back deck, and ends up sounding not so good. So I think the weakest point for my system now is the rear deck insulation and assembly. The stereo installer agreed for what it's worth.
Can you send me a link to the amp you bought? Also, do you have your speakers wired to it or did you leave them on the factory amp? Thank you.
Edit: nevermind, I found your post, a bit out of my budget personally. So what advice did the stereo installer give you for the rear deck installation? New sub all together?
Can you send me a link to the amp you bought? Also, do you have your speakers wired to it or did you leave them on the factory amp? Thank you. Edit: nevermind, I found your post, a bit out of my budget personally. So what advice did the stereo installer give you for the rear deck installation? New sub all together?
No it came down to reinforcing the rear deck/trunk components
Hi guys, thanks for all the helpful advice in this and other related Android threads. I ordered everything a couple of months ago and have only just had time to attempt the install. I've removed the Becker amp and connected the wider connector (speakers i believe), and the smaller but still chunky connector (power) to the 6m harness. Harness is connected to the back of the new HU so it should be getting power, however it won't turn on. I haven't connected anything else yet as i wanted to just connect the basics to start to ensure it would at least turn on - it won't!
I've multimeter tested the small chunky power cable from the becker amp and it gets 12v fine. I also checked if 12v was getting through the harness and it also seems fine.
Hey guys, sorry for dropping from the face of the earth! been quite flat out!
ukdave, there must be a small transparent red box that needs to be connected to the wiring loom where the head unit is. that small red box will tell the unit to power up when the key is in the ignition and is on first or second click.
Im glad you did V tests, however you must have tested the yellow for +ve and the black for -ve, however the red which is normally the "on" signal is controlled by that canbuss box.
also that canbuss box will allow you to retain steering wheel controls.
Red Can bus decoder box connected. It looks like the issue was actually or both I hadn't connected the green wire from the harness which connects to the fibre/copper bracket that was previously connected to the Becker amp. As soon as I plugged this in it powered on, shamone.
So i'll continue with some basic tests and then properly route the harness and antenna cables and get the HU fitted in the front.
Are there any other cables that need connecting on the Amp end or head Unit end?
(I have the HK Logic 7 system and will get a professional to fit a proper amp at a later date. )
Red Can bus decoder box connected. It looks like the issue was actually or both I hadn't connected the green wire from the harness which connects to the fibre/copper bracket that was previously connected to the Becker amp. As soon as I plugged this in it powered on, shamone.
So i'll continue with some basic tests and then properly route the harness and antenna cables and get the HU fitted in the front.
Are there any other cables that need connecting on the Amp end or head Unit end?
(I have the HK Logic 7 system and will get a professional to fit a proper amp at a later date. )
If your not installing an amp just yet, the cables etc supplied should suffice to get you going until you do the amp.
if your considering a reverse camera, i'd suggest doing that now as you will need to run the video signal the same way as the new loom.
I've been reading on many forums to see if these android HU are plug & play for w211 with NO fiber optic's, I believe my car has no fiber optic, and when I asked the seller about this, they said I don't need any extra wiring. BUT today when I received the android HU and removed the AUDIO 50 APS, now it's confusing because I couldn't see any speaker wires from the backside of AUDIO 50 APS! Only 2 connectors ( power connector and Antenna), so even for cars with NO fiber optic, it's still not plug & play.
can someone help me on how to connect the Android HU ? do I need any adaptors/connectors? please
Hi Aya, what really determines if your car has Optical fiber is if its got premium sound option. premium sound started from APS 20 i believe? and so on.
yours is a rare one because most who purchased the car and wanted premium sound would have just gone for the command unit. unfortunately for you the first owner decided they wanted premium sound but not premium head unit.
I would be contacting the supplier who sold you the unit and pay for the 6m cable to suit your android unit. make sure you speak with them and not buy a generic 6m cable as the pin out will vary and may damage the android unit / cars circuit.
so treat your install just like how i layed out the install in this thread.
W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 OM642 ; R107 M117, Sierra 1500 LZ0
Originally Posted by tubaprde
Hi is anyone having the same issues as me with the Bluetooth echo problems on the other end of the line?
read a few posts up.
As for me... I'm glad someone has exerted all this effort, but the reality for me s that it will be easier to just buy a different car.
Car manufacturer's have made these highly integrated dependent systems with glee and purposely sell them already obsolete because they know it is an incentive for people to upgrade their car like they do their cell phone. And it works.
I can't wait for the day where we simply have a dummy screen that mirrors my android or apple phone to it and all my functions are controlled on the upgradable super computer in my pocket.
Have to damn near rebuild the car from the ground up just to get a semi-competent infotainment and gps system, ridiculous.
I have a ELM327 OBD plug with bluetooth and i have one with a usb lead... can i use them both (one at a time) or? thanks. also, the current to the obd does this stay on and drain the battery or?
You can definitely use both. I've got to OBD devices hooked up via a splitter wire. And then for the USB I have a 1 to 4 way splitter. So I can have my 256 GB thumb drive for music and chart 3 phones at the same time.
One of the OBD two devices is smart enough to not Draw power when the car is off. The other one draws power when the cars off however it's such a small amount of power that I've never noticed an issue
I'd like to add to this, in saying that I've known Xpresion for a long time from another car group years ago.
He was responsible for talking me into a buying a 2006 W211 and now this unit too.
There is not enough praise for guys like him, amazing unit, got mine in with relative ease.
I am however doing a very extreme SQ install at the same time so I have a lot of other stuff going on at the same time. I will endeavour to make my own thread regarding my install once i actually get through more of it.
Hi, I am seriously considering this upgrade. Can someone share how wires are routed between the trunk and the unit? Are there tracks to run the wires and are they easy to get to ( covers easily removed ) ?
btw, my vehicle does have the HK speaker system and navigation which no longer works.
Last edited by NCBenzUser; 11-26-2015 at 09:39 PM.
Reason: Added info