My 2005 MB E320 4matic instrument cluster is totally dead. There is no light, no display on any of the instrument or gauges (gas, speed, engine rpm, etc.). It looks like somebody cutting the power supply to entire instrument panel. This happened after my key fob was washed in the washing machine. When the key fob was dried and re-assembled and is able to open and lock the car, the instrument cluster is totally dead ever since.

Before the instrument cluster was dead, when I start the car. Starter motor has difficulties to start, slow cranking speed as if it is lack of battery power. I have to push the gas pedal to get the car started. Ever since instrument panel stopped working, the starter motor seems gain more power with the SAME old battery, cranking very easily without pumping gas pedal to get the car started. I read from an article suggest, may be, the instrument cluster is cut off from power supplier to save battery power if there is no sufficient CCA.

Except instructment cluster, everything else is working: radio, AC, fans, interior lights and lights on shifts and doors. Also, exterior lights and signal lights are still working despite instrument panel is dead.

Please help to diagnose and fix the dead instructment cluster. Here are a few thoughts and questions myself:
(1). Is there fuse that controls the instrument cluster power supplier? If there is, where is the fuse. I checked the battery. It gets more 12V voltage. When the car is running, it has more than 14V at main battery terminal, showing alternator is working. However, Aux battery is still at same 12.5V. Looks like the Aux battery is not connected to the charger (alternator)​​​​​​.
(2). Is the instructment cluster power get shut off from the battery control unit? An article suggest the MB battery control unit may shut down power to some of electronics to save battery current power consumption. However, instrument cluster seems to be very import and why does the battery control unit shut down power suppliers to instrument cluster
(3). I tried to clump a portable power battery (ones tow truck uses to jump start car) to both main battery and Aux battery to see whether I can get the instrument cluster back. It does not work
(4). Also, I bought new a SLA (sealed lead acid) battery, the new battery is drained less than 4 V from (I measured voltage is 12.5V before I put it on) as soon as I connected to the car. So, I disconnected immediately and put the old AGM back. Everything is work except the dead cluster.

Please help!!!
Thanks

 

Place to begin, check f52 @ from SAM (engine compartment).

 

Thank you very much for your reply and pointing out the F52. I checked fuse #52, it works. I also checked Fuse #84 the battery control module or battery sensor. Both are working. I appreciate further guidance and help!

 

You can disconnect main battery for 15 minutes or so in an attempt to reset if this fails next step, have someone pull fault codes preferably using MB diagnostics.

 

I disconnected both main and aux batteries for more than 30 minutes and checked additional fuses #F64, #43. The instrument cluster is still dead. I will get a scanner and read the code. I do not own a scanner, so either I will get it read a shop or get a one online.

Quick question: My car key was wet since it is washed in a wishing machine. I got the key dried and the key is functional now, able to open/lock the cars with the dried old key. Is RFID working only thing. needed to repair the key fob? I worried the key fob not fully functional now, disabling some of modules or computers inside the car.

Appreciate your help!

Happy new year

 

2nd key?

If the circuit in the ignition system of the vehicle does not recognize the key (with or w/o the battery), the car should not react in any way or form. Damaged chip in the key?

 

Unfortunately, I only have one key. Right now, the key can turn on the car, run the car (I can drive the car with the key), having normal turning signals everything works except DEAD instrument panel

By the way, any body has electrical wiring diagram to and from the instrument cluster?

used a circuit tester and found that the fuses for the instrument cluster #52, #64 have current supplies. I do not know whether circuits from fuses #52 and #F64 go directly to instrument clusters. If the two fuses lead directly to instrument cluster, then I had a dead/defect instrument cluster. I will just buy a used instrument cluster and replace with the instrument cluster.

Appreciate your help!

Happy new year

 

Hopefully the Konigstiger will read the thread and post the proper diagram. Wait a bit, he is always around

 

See attachments.

 

Konigstiger,
Thank you so much! This is very helpful.

 

I get the car scanned. Here is the code

P203E-4 MIL ON&Stored&Current. No CAN message from Instrument cluster (IC) or message faulty. Communication fault/Please referen the CAN status in Freeze Frame Data (FFD) as well (P0600)

Looks like it is a dead instrument cluster.

 

Either the instrument cluster is dead, or the pathway via de CAN bus to the cluster is loose/damaged/etc?

Have you ever had water intrusion in this vehicle? Corrosion/Bad contact from the instrument cluster to else?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3951020-post1.html

 

I am betting it is a dead IC.

Before the IC was dead, battery hardly can crank the car. Starter cranking speed is very, very low as if the battery is dead and I have to pump gas while start the car. Ever since the IC is dead (not displaying anything), the same OLD battery now can crank the car happily, good cranking speed and normal starter sound. The car can start very easily and happily without pumping gas and battery seems have plenty of power!

So, I suspect some of the components inside IC are aging, drawing high current. The high current draw eventually burnt the components inside the IC.

I purchased an. used IC. Wish me luck! Once I get the used IC, I will change and update the results :-)

Thanks for your help and support!

 

It can also be a corroded contact.. You will see it once it comes out.

https://mbworld.org/forums/cls-coupe...ml#post5961112

 

I bought the car used, so I don't the car was exposed water or not

Thank for the video link on CAN wiring! If I am not lucky after trying to replace the IC, I will dig through the wiring.

 

This makes sense... Thanks for the tip.

 

I received an used instrument cluster from eBay. Replaced it, Everything works now. Also, the car starts every easily too. The replacement instrument cluster also fixed the current drain issue too.

Konigstiger and Juanmore40: Thank you very much for your help, guidance!

 

my IC died. I have a MBZ 2004 CL55 AMG. One 5 amp fuse was burnt. Replaced it but it keeps blowing. Can you tell me where else to look. After replacement of the 5A fuse, IC comes on, but dies again. Do you have electrical diagram for W215 I can follow.
thanks

 

Pull and disconnect IC if fuse doesn't blow you know IC is bad.

 

For those people who have same problem reading this thread.
I had exact same issue with my car. Cluster was totally dead headlight beam on and car was driving just fine.

First thing i did was check all the fuses even not IC ones. Fuses were ok.
Then i removed cluster and opened up PCB unit then assembled all back together and then used 12v adapter to check if IC was ok. And thankfully it turned on. (pin 1 (ground) pin 4 (12v) pin 6(12v))
Knowing that IC was good i put it back to my car but nothing worked only clock was turning no light nothing even after starting my car. So what i did was removed the cluster again then turned my key to on position after that i plugged the cluster surprise surprise it actually turned on.
To be honest i dont know actually what happened. This actually worked for me. So some might find it useful hopefully it works for you too.

 

If someone wants to revive a failed W211 iCluster or curious about its failure (draining batt and blowing fuses) then strip it down to PCB and post internal pics...
✌️

 

im not sure exactly what fixed it but we pulled all 7.5 fuses as read, disconnected battery and grounded the cables to each other for a min and then i found the i and wrench buttons in console, i turned key on the buttons lit up so u pushed them and my dash flashed i repeatedly did this with lights and gauges coming on and going off then they blinked and powered up i guess it made the communication it was needed, I understand the two buttons are meant for Emergency call and what ever but it was coming alive longer after each time i keyed off and pushed them maybe just the keying on and off did it but stoked they came back

 

Thank you so much!! I was experiencing the same thing for my 2009 c300 w204 and nothing worked until I unplugged the IC, turned the key to the on position, and then plugged the IC back in. I definitely just saved a ton of money and I can't thank you enough!!

 

So did you get a new cluster is it fixed I'm missing something