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This morning, I replaced 4 sensors and 4 magnets along with all getting pig tails. I did it at a friend’s place when car was warm. I drove it and all seemed well. This evening when engine had cooled down, I wanted to go to a grocery store, but when I started car, it shook and check engine light popped on. I ran a scan and I got this. It was too dark to recheck all my connections, but using a flashlight I went over what was accessible. Not sure if I have a bad part or bad connection.
This transient fault is passed history - It got logged while you had the connection opened during pigtail install... meaning fault is Not PRESENT.
"Short circuit to GND" is the Bosch ECU reporting "missing power supply", not realy a zero Ohm issue.
All in all... you're ready to drive after clearing historical faults.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 17, 2026 at 11:21 PM.
I'm glad the problem is by the air box where access is easier. I have 4 spare pigtails, 4, OEM, came with FCP's kit and 4, aftermarket, came from Amazon, in case one got compromised when I was repositioning the air box. Stay tuned.
Last edited by Pantomime; Jan 17, 2026 at 11:00 PM.
I replaced the pigtail of Bank 1 solenoid, but no luck. I then went without a pigtail and this is what I’m now getting. My original solenoids are at my buddy’s place and he just left town🙃
Last edited by Pantomime; Jan 18, 2026 at 02:23 PM.
I replaced the pigtail of Bank 1 solenoid, but no luck. I then went without a pigtail and this is what I’m now getting. My original solenoids are at my buddy’s place and he just left town🙃
are you dealing with phasers SOLENOIDS right?
Can you test & compare voltage present in solenoid harness.... it seems your missing 12Volt or bad connector pin contact
are you dealing with phasers SOLENOIDS right?
Can you test & compare voltage present in solenoid harness.... it seems your missing 12Volt or bad connector pin contact
I have a basic multimeter, but not sure how to test voltage in solenoid harness. I'll do an online search and maybe I'll learn how to do it.
Last edited by Pantomime; Jan 18, 2026 at 04:43 PM.
are you dealing with phasers SOLENOIDS right?
Can you test & compare voltage present in solenoid harness.... it seems your missing 12Volt or bad connector pin contact
I checked solenoid plug and it’s getting 12.5 V. Prongs on solenoid are not bent. Swapping solenoids positions would determine if it’s a solenoid malfunction.
I have given up on trying to figure this out myself. My circumstances are such that I’m not free during the week. My question is, would it be fine to drive it for a couple of miles where there’s a European Indy shop?
Last edited by Pantomime; Jan 18, 2026 at 07:05 PM.
I checked solenoid plug and it’s getting 12.5 V. Prongs on solenoid are not bent. Swapping solenoids positions would determine if it’s a solenoid malfunction.
I have given up on trying to figure this out myself. My circumstances are such that I’m not free during the week. My question is, would it be fine to drive it for a couple of miles where there’s a European Indy shop?
We dont know exactly what's causing this, right?
There's no guarantee what may happen driving around with this issue active I think it's on the mild side so long phasers stay locked and not wildly out of control.
VVT Solenoids are bullet proof very resilient... I'd focus on the harness side and ECU.
🤞
You do have 12.5V at the solenoid.... you're missing the ECU pulsed GND or somethings causing the ECU to defaut to the lock position without actuation.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 18, 2026 at 11:05 PM.
This morning, I replaced 4 sensors and 4 magnets along with all getting pig tails. I did it at a friend’s place when car was warm. I drove it and all seemed well. This evening when engine had cooled down, I wanted to go to a grocery store, but when I started car, it shook and check engine light popped on. I ran a scan and I got this. It was too dark to recheck all my connections, but using a flashlight I went over what was accessible. Not sure if I have a bad part or bad connection.
Thanks Prihadi, I read his write up, but he's all over the place. If I understood him correctly, he's saying he mistakenly plugged intake plug into exhaust and vice versa. Not sure what he meant by "put it in the bag." I drove car to mechanic shop and left it there for them to figure out the problem. It shook and rattled and almost died out, but luckily I made it there
Hey, thanks for your pics and showing what you bought to fix it!
I have a 2015 E400 4MATIC M276 3.0TT and it looks like I'm facing the same problem.
I know I have a different engine, but did you just happen to buy new cam sensors and new cam solenoids/magnets to fix the problem? Along with the electronics cleaning spray to get the oil off of the electronic engine components? I'm trying to fix my similar leak without opening up the engine and spending much more $$$$ in labor compared to just replacing the sensors & solenoids/magnets while cleaning everything with the electronics spray.
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I think it's on the mild side so long phasers stay locked and not wildly out of control.
. 
