Cam solenoid/ cam magnet and spark plugs

However, I don't see how I can replace the cam solenoids/ cam magnets. The ones on the passenger side (left side if you're looking straight at the front of the car) look accessible, but the ones on the driver's side have very little access- two A/C hard lines are in the way. Any tips on how to access the bolts? Also, there's no room for a ratchet and e-torx socket. I ordered e-torx gearwrenches for this job.
Second, where are the spark plugs? There is a big rubber insulator over the valve covers and removing it, I can see the fuel rail, but I don't see anything that looks like an ignition coil or plugs. Are the plugs above or below the fuel rail?
However, I don't see how I can replace the cam solenoids/ cam magnets. The ones on the passenger side (left side if you're looking straight at the front of the car) look accessible, but the ones on the driver's side have very little access- two A/C hard lines are in the way. Any tips on how to access the bolts? Also, there's no room for a ratchet and e-torx socket. I ordered e-torx gearwrenches for this job.
Second, where are the spark plugs? There is a big rubber insulator over the valve covers and removing it, I can see the fuel rail, but I don't see anything that looks like an ignition coil or plugs. Are the plugs above or below the fuel rail?




In order to be successful you have to gather information by searching it.
Someone took the time to help you, don't be foolish. Poke around a bit.

I’m not an idiot- I searched before I posted. Furthermore, I never thought I’d find so many unhelpful people in a forum geared toward DIYers. Two of two.
When the previous poster said there are plenty of videos on YouTube, that’s not true. There are videos showing the W221 S-Class but nothing for a W212. I was concerned that not everything would be the same as they are different chassis. I wouldn’t look for a GL550 video and think it’s going to be identical.
I’m not an idiot- I searched before I posted. Furthermore, I never thought I’d find so many unhelpful people in a forum geared toward DIYers. Two of two.
When the previous poster said there are plenty of videos on YouTube, that’s not true. There are videos showing the W221 S-Class but nothing for a W212. I was concerned that not everything would be the same as they are different chassis. I wouldn’t look for a GL550 video and think it’s going to be identical.
I am fresh on them, I can help if you want set up video meeting. One question, do you have thin hands?




I’m not an idiot- I searched before I posted. Furthermore, I never thought I’d find so many unhelpful people in a forum geared toward DIYers. Two of two.
When the previous poster said there are plenty of videos on YouTube, that’s not true. There are videos showing the W221 S-Class but nothing for a W212. I was concerned that not everything would be the same as they are different chassis. I wouldn’t look for a GL550 video and think it’s going to be identical.
Are you going to go ahead and fill the gap with a post detailing all your findings for everyone? Apparently that's what's missing for V8, right?
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It is much better than looking at WIS/EPC and it can help to visualize how are we going to remove X,Y,Z component.
This is M278
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193868806149

plugs are easy to do given you have the tools....swivels and extensions are key tho the 2 cynilders near the firewall are very close to the engine.
pull the air box off to the side, pull the large rubber pad off and youll see the coils.





Remove the engine cover
Loosen the clamps between the airbox and the charge pipe
Remove the bolt holding down the charge pipe
Pull the charge pipe forward (toward the front bumper) to make space
The driver's side is very difficult. The outer one I was able to do, but the bottom bolt is very tight clearance, as is the top left. The inner one I could not figure out how to do- the top bolts I can get to but the bottom bolt, there simply isn't any clearance to even get a Gearwrench ratcheting wrench into there.
I saw this video on youtube:
This makes it look easy, but the A/C hard lines are right next to the oil filter housing. The top of the oil filter I can remove and that helps quite a bit, but there's nothing I can do about those A/C hard lines. In the video referenced above, the guy doesn't seem to have any difficulty getting around the A/C lines, but that might be because he has a CLS rather than an E- maybe things are less cramped in the CLS because it's a little bigger?
The cam adjuster magnets are much harder to do than the cam position sensors. I haven't gotten to the plugs yet- still learning about indexing them properly and it sounds like the Bosch branded plugs don't index correctly, which would be a big problem. I think I'm going to return the Bosch plugs and buy MBZ branded plugs for the replacement.
Remove the engine cover
Loosen the clamps between the airbox and the charge pipe
Remove the bolt holding down the charge pipe
Pull the charge pipe forward (toward the front bumper) to make space
The driver's side is very difficult. The outer one I was able to do, but the bottom bolt is very tight clearance, as is the top left. The inner one I could not figure out how to do- the top bolts I can get to but the bottom bolt, there simply isn't any clearance to even get a Gearwrench ratcheting wrench into there.
I saw this video on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7SVMeAiHhM
This makes it look easy, but the A/C hard lines are right next to the oil filter housing. The top of the oil filter I can remove and that helps quite a bit, but there's nothing I can do about those A/C hard lines. In the video referenced above, the guy doesn't seem to have any difficulty getting around the A/C lines, but that might be because he has a CLS rather than an E- maybe things are less cramped in the CLS because it's a little bigger?
The cam adjuster magnets are much harder to do than the cam position sensors. I haven't gotten to the plugs yet- still learning about indexing them properly and it sounds like the Bosch branded plugs don't index correctly, which would be a big problem. I think I'm going to return the Bosch plugs and buy MBZ branded plugs for the replacement.
I did not remove any parts other than the plastic cloth intakes. I did not even have to remove the charge pipes.
Remove the engine cover
Loosen the clamps between the airbox and the charge pipe
Remove the bolt holding down the charge pipe
Pull the charge pipe forward (toward the front bumper) to make space
The driver's side is very difficult. The outer one I was able to do, but the bottom bolt is very tight clearance, as is the top left. The inner one I could not figure out how to do- the top bolts I can get to but the bottom bolt, there simply isn't any clearance to even get a Gearwrench ratcheting wrench into there.
I saw this video on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7SVMeAiHhM
This makes it look easy, but the A/C hard lines are right next to the oil filter housing. The top of the oil filter I can remove and that helps quite a bit, but there's nothing I can do about those A/C hard lines. In the video referenced above, the guy doesn't seem to have any difficulty getting around the A/C lines, but that might be because he has a CLS rather than an E- maybe things are less cramped in the CLS because it's a little bigger?
The cam adjuster magnets are much harder to do than the cam position sensors. I haven't gotten to the plugs yet- still learning about indexing them properly and it sounds like the Bosch branded plugs don't index correctly, which would be a big problem. I think I'm going to return the Bosch plugs and buy MBZ branded plugs for the replacement.
There are many posts on this site talking marking electrodes and going through drama to be sure the plugs are indexed. Using the MB OEM plugs purchased from a dealer, with the MB torque spec results in indexed plugs.


There are many posts on this site talking marking electrodes and going through drama to be sure the plugs are indexed. Using the MB OEM plugs purchased from a dealer, with the MB torque spec results in indexed plugs.
The only screw you can't easily access is the lower/bottom one, correct? If the oil filter is removed, will you have access for a wrench? Another option is to remove the front cylinder head cover with the magnets, as an assembly. Replace and reseal the assembly, then reinstall.
The hard pipe with a black hose is a water pipe. If you remove the rubber, then see if you can remove the metal portion, this will give more space.



