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8897273]Depending on model year and headlight code 6xx, the power can come from fuse 29 and fuse 30 of front sam or fuse 74 and 75 of rear SAM.
If your headlight is a 641/642 Dynamic LED or 631/632 static LED, read here slowly ( post #10) and see the linked post on 641 headlight : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8896407
its a LHD 2014 E350 4matic dynamic led headlights code 640 and sure I will read it right now. Thank you so much for the reply 🙏
8897273]Depending on model year and headlight code 6xx, the power can come from fuse 29 and fuse 30 of front sam or fuse 74 and 75 of rear SAM.
If your headlight is a 641/642 Dynamic LED or 631/632 static LED, read here slowly ( post #10) and see the linked post on 641 headlight : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8896407
Fuse #74 was empty so I changed fuse #75 and ended up blown again, does that mean I need to change the headlight assembly or the module?
Fuse #74 was empty so I changed fuse #75 and ended up blown again, does that mean I need to change the headlight assembly or the module?
Fuse 74 empty .... start your story much back in time please. The day WHEN both headlights were working well.
The rear SAM wing fuses, I can them WING FUSES because they are removeable, the purple plastic cage of fuses 74 to 80 set.... they can be removed from rear SAM as I recall.
Too bad I am not home and can't access my home PC, I tear down rear sam fuse box for re-soldering like 2 years ago. I have lots of photo.
Now , your honest full story line first ......on how your headlight from healthy to be in current "shorted' state ?
Who been in there at the rear SAM ?
Today, can you see that fuse #74 holder both female ports, do they have the copper connector ?
The outside facing female port of fuse #74, is there a wire to it ?
This fuse set purple cage 74 to 80 , one side is to rear SAM using female to male blade, one side is female to wired end. Did someone mess up the wired side ?
I hope my explanation make sense without proper photos
One more thing.........
Go to this vin decoder https://www.lastvin.com/ and produce your data card and post it please.
I want to make sure your car has a true 640 series LED and not some modified after market one.
If you ask me question based on non genuine MB components, I can't and wont help you as I do not understand them.
I only know my 641 dynamic LED , genuine MB version, as such my wiring is set up by MB Indonesia to be for 641 headlight.
So get every data true and proper and we can carry on.
8897704[/url]]Fuse 74 empty .... start your story much back in time please. The day WHEN both headlights were working well.
The rear SAM wing fuses, I can them WING FUSES because they are removeable, the purple plastic cage of fuses 74 to 80 set.... they can be removed from rear SAM as I recall.
Too bad I am not home and can't access my home PC, I tear down rear sam fuse box for re-soldering like 2 years ago. I have lots of photo.
Now , your honest full story line first ......on how your headlight from healthy to be in current "shorted' state ?
Who been in there at the rear SAM ?
Today, can you see that fuse #74 holder both female ports, do they have the copper connector ?
The outside facing female port of fuse #74, is there a wire to it ?
This fuse set purple cage 74 to 80 , one side is to rear SAM using female to male blade, one side is female to wired end. Did someone mess up the wired side ?
I hope my explanation make sense without proper photos
I bought the car 2 month ago from an auction, the two headlights were working fine, I have the same ones you posted in your pictures. I hit a cone and it cracked the driver side headlight cover, then possible water went in there. Driver side was flickering on an off, then worked for couple of days then one day it won’t work anymore. Except the high and low beam (driver side) and at the same time only the day Light, side mark work on the right side. Maybe someone played with it, I have no idea :/
8897707[/url]]One more thing.........
Go to this vin decoder https://www.lastvin.com/ and produce your data card and post it please.
I want to make sure your car has a true 640 series LED and not some modified after market one.
If you ask me question based on non genuine MB components, I can't and wont help you as I do not understand them.
I only know my 641 dynamic LED , genuine MB version, as such my wiring is set up by MB Indonesia to be for 641 headlight.
So get every data true and proper and we can carry on.
You have to get someone to access a 640 headlight wiring and not a 641/642, just to be sure.
What does not make sense is you do not have fuse 74 in the slot and yet BOTH headlights we were working back then.
So either something is unique with a 640 headlight fuse system, or someone modified something before.
Untill you see a 640 wiring diagram, we can only speculate.
Hello everybody
Maybe someone here can give me a hint for the source of the problems my friend experiences with his W212 220 CDI: completely random, sometimes twice in 100 km, other times once in 1000 km, the car losses power or the engine stops completely and shortly displays various warnings.
The car restarts normally most of the times, but on occasions needs 10-15 minutes before restarting.
Every times those incidents happen, it stores various codes, all indicating electric malfunction (open circuits) of various actuators on the engine bay.
We have checked: engine wirings, connectors, ECU (opened and inspected for cold solderings or damaged components), some of the fuses that feed the engine wiring.
At this moment we are stuck and not really knowing how to proceed.
Thanks
Replace these relays in Front SAM ( fuse box ). Get genuine MB ones or at least similar one with resistor for spike control. If relay M, get genuine MB.
Relay J, M, R and N as minimum.
When these relays are semi worn out, they can give lots of funny DTC, because power loss occurred often for short duration.
Temperature sometimes brings effect, colder weather, more issue.
Those relays are at least 10 years old, so its not waste of money even if not all are effected but you renew them.
You also must clean all the ground wires and more so the undocumented WTF ground wire.
Hello everybody
Maybe someone here can give me a hint for the source of the problems my friend experiences with his W212 220 CDI: completely random, sometimes twice in 100 km, other times once in 1000 km, the car losses power or the engine stops completely and shortly displays various warnings.
The car restarts normally most of the times, but on occasions needs 10-15 minutes before restarting.
Every times those incidents happen, it stores various codes, all indicating electric malfunction (open circuits) of various actuators on the engine bay.
We have checked: engine wirings, connectors, ECU (opened and inspected for cold solderings or damaged components), some of the fuses that feed the engine wiring.
At this moment we are stuck and not really knowing how to proceed.
Thanks
-- What you describe is a dangerous limp-mode when engine/tranny quit while driving. This may require immediate attention.
How about identify what common circuit feeds all the faults ???
So many faults....
start high up from feed...
like the MAIN ECU FEED GETTING OXIDIZED...
I am sure we can find something interesting in F-SAM.
Tthat's besides...
+ MAIN STRAP always feeding everything
+ footwell GND POSTS feeding ECU/F-SAM
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 08-07-2024 at 06:17 PM.
I found my fuse chart tucked into the spare wheel caddy
Not sure how it got there or if MB put them there
Anyway, it is now in the glovebox with the other books for the vehicle
12-24-2023, 05:35 AM
.... start your story much back in time please. The day WHEN both headlights were working well.
