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Threw these codes, is this chain stretch? I’m going to clean the camshaft sensors and get back to this thread. Had to make a new on because there’s no Info on these two codes, just my luck.
edit: my car has never rattled or anything, I change my oil incessantly
Last edited by AllPhonesAretap; 10-30-2022 at 03:37 PM.
1-- There are couple things you can do, the first one is to replace the 4x CPS -
Not only they are known as the No1 provider of oil-in-harness, they also grow weaker to the point the ECU can't read them right to figure camshaft position.
2-- While you are there install the pigtail adapters to help keep oil out of your harness - The new CPS seem to perform as well as old ones.
3-- Next: consider 2x weak chain tensioners...
4-- Next: intake VVT only!
5-- While you got your hood up... check for oil coming out of from oil pump solenoid connector.
6-- Let's see if M276/8 motors are impacted. The plastic sensor is cheep but late repairs can be astronomical (from 8 to $16k).
bottom left of crankshaft
newcomer to provide oil-in-harness
Hope this helps you well.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 10-30-2022 at 10:10 PM.
So bank 2 ( LEFT ) supposedly the bad region.
Attached ECM wiring for M276 3.5 NA
Have fun probbing around.....
your list of codes is the first thing I checked! When I say nothing I mean no posts working through the issue. I’ll check what you’ve said and report back.
So bank 2 ( LEFT ) supposedly the bad region.
Attached ECM wiring for M276 3.5 NA
Have fun probbing around.....
Honestly, I can barely wrap my head around wiring diagrams, especially those without instructions. I didn’t only see those two codes. I’m also getting P13B3. When cross reference with your video, it tells me that Fuse 2 Fuse for ignitions coils is having a malfunction. I have no idea how to find that fuse. I’m referencing this guy who has just about the same issue: https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...r-problem.html
edit: I’m also getting p0354/5/6
Last edited by AllPhonesAretap; 10-31-2022 at 07:42 AM.
p0354/5/6
P0354xx = Actuation of ignition coil 4 something went wrong. Since you are not using full DTC from Mercedes thelast 2 digits xx can mean a few things...hence i said SOMETHING WENT WRONG.
P0355xx = Coil 5
P0356xx = Coil 6
Now, this is how to use the wiring diaghram...will take some practice, I know.
ID the items in question. Now we want to know Coils 4, 5 & 6. What are they call and where are they and how-where they are powered ?
We use the diagram but the description section
Then go to the diagram/drawing section now that you have the position or coordinates 27K , 29K and 31K
Okey, now we know that these 3 coils are powered by splices or parallel connection called which MB actually crimped and solder, they are :
They are Z6z2, Circuit 31 connector sleeve. 31 is always a NEGATIVE for german cars, it is part of DIN.
and Z7/35z2. Circuit 87m1e connector sleeve. 87 is positive and usually has to do with engine or tranny.
From my own list I made for my car W212.065 E400. I made this so that I can troubleshoot fast.
So, wehere do we find information on Z7/35z2 and Z6z2 ?
Again look for its coordinates : For Z6/z2 find 70E and for Z7/35z2 find 36G and 71E
Lets take a peek first for 36G, what is Z7/35z2 a POSITIVE power supply powering, other than the ignition coils 4, 5 and 6 ?
Aha..... so Z7/35z2 also powers 4 more components
What are they ? They are ..........
See, now we have a better picture.
Still, we need to know which fuse/s power the Z7/35z2 and where is the real source of the ground Z6z2?
We have 2 more coordinates we have to find, 70E and 71E
The diamond like square sign means splice or many many wires paralled there. So when u see such sign, find the next one and dont expect a drawn line between them, it is understood that
they can be everywhere, hence the wiring diag description list with all the coordinates can show where they ALL are.
So you must now go to N10/1 Front SAM and find, connector 3M pin #6 which fuse is that from ? Lots of work...YES. Headache for newbies...HELL YES !!! I had migrain when trying to learn all these.
Your also must find Grounding List to find W16/5 location for negative/ground connection point.
What is X26 in above drawing 2 image up ? , well that is an intermediatte connector and that can be a source of bad/loose contact too. So from car interior to engine, one can make disconnection hence an
intermediate connector used called X26. There is another one X26/1.
Let find the fuse first at front SAM connector 3M pin #6. This is where the fun starts, because 10 pages of wiring diag for front SAM.
But wait a minute, there is information there PE.54.21-P-2106 DAC and DAE sheet, approximation would be sheet 3 for the C and sheet 5 for the E of Front SAM.
Lets go to DAC first, or sheet 3 of 10 Front SAM
So, lets find coordinate 89L and 97L.
WOW.... so which one is for our/your car ?
Well you have to read the wiring diag description first few pages what those U157, U127, U152, U948, U880 (U1032) (U1018), U739 and U1027 meant, it is car engine
variant and some others. This is where I hate MB wiring so much for FRONT & REAR SAM because they have all their car models in 1 wiring diagram set and you need to sort out which are NOT YOUR CAR MODEL
This is also why do not trust 3rd party wiring diag for MB, too much error. Well MB has its own error too, but not as bad as 3rd party ones.
Well, again, I custom edit my own Front SAM wiring diag. For ease of use when the time comes. While is is specific to my car E400 W212.065 but many are the same if with M276 3.5 NA.
You on the other hand need to learn how to use Front SAM wiring diag.
Aha...so U1018 is for M276 3.5NA
Any M276 3.0 turbo owner DO BE CAREFUL, sometimes we can use U1018 code sometime we need to use U319 code and sometime MB screw up for M276.8 engine wiring information, our engine is a PARIAH !!!!
For me a M276 3.0 Turbo owner M276.820 engine, the same page Sheet 3 of 10 Front SAM , fuse #24 has extra connection to ECM ( N3/10) at connector 4i pin #2, so I must pay EXTRA attention to, see the U391 code below
Okey, how about Sheet 5 of 10 the DAE ?
Nope there is no Z7/35z2 at sheet 5 or DAE. Why did MB showed the link ?
Well, as much as the migrain we are having reading this 10 pages of Front SAM, them engineers have their fair share of error from migrain too
=============================
So is Fuse 24 truly serving only Z7/5z2 if for M276 3.5 NA ?
To be certain, you need to see all 10 pages of the Front SAM sheets. Why ?
Because the Front SAM wiring 10 pages are probably done by a few different engineers and they are like isolated from each other, even though it should not be that way.
There is no single page Front SAM wiring diag, I have to make my own by stiching and making corrections and choose what components ARE NOT FOR MY CAR.
Now, many fuses at from SAM are relay powered or activated. That means if the fuse does not burst/burnt out, the relay can be the cause.
How do I know which relays are upstream of which fuses ? Well use the Fuse List and the 10 pages of Front SAM wiring and make your own custom table, like what I did.
You need to read all these pages...yes, migrain maker indeed.
Here, I give you my fuse & relay vs sheet finder.
RELAY POWER TREE
This one specific to my car W212.065 E400 and RHD country, but many are similar to M276 3.5
See, for my M276 3.0 Turbo, fuse 24 serves Z7/35z1 and not z2 like on M276 3.5 NA
My ECM fuses which I list for easy to troubleshoot.
Up to this point the fuse 24 serving the components on M276 3.5NA seems the same 100% as on my M276 3.0 Turbo.
Okey, class dismissed.
Go and attack your problem.
Tell us now that you know how they are wired, what is your plan of action ?
Share with us........... take this like Scanner Danner / Pine Hollow Diagnistic video episode and we are the viewers ...... he he he.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; 10-31-2022 at 10:45 AM.
Reason: typo correction
Preliminarily, I changed The front fuse box fuse 27 the 7.5A one, this may show how green I am but originally I couldn't tell if the fuse was blown, it definitely was. It didn't fix the issue but it helped one cylinder, I'm going to go back out and test which. So I think I may be on the right track tracking blown fuses.
I read your post from the beginning and I supplemented it with Youtube University and I'm tracking you. Thank you so much! I'm gong to hit the ground running
The MB wiring has a screw up for Ground 16/5.
It is probably 16/6.
You wont find W16/5 in the 2 PDF for engine bay grounds. I been trying to find it since 2021 for my 3.0 Turbo, never could find it. Must be typo and 16/5 is actually 16/6 which is there at the 2 documents I attached at previous post.
I am attaching this above document.
See below the suposedly PE00.19-P-2800DAE, it is just a list and not a document containing where is W16/5
=================================
Where is X26 ? For M276 3.5 NA
Attached as Location and assignment of line and plug connectors , engine compartment, left.pdf
Preliminarily, I changed The front fuse box fuse 27 the 7.5A one, this may show how green I am but originally I couldn't tell if the fuse was blown, it definitely was. It didn't fix the issue but it helped one cylinder, I'm going to go back out and test which. So I think I may be on the right track tracking blown fuses.
I read your post from the beginning and I supplemented it with Youtube University and I'm tracking you. Thank you so much! I'm gong to hit the ground running
GET A SIMPLE TEST LIGHT, but best use a digital meter in resistance mode to check fuse just in case there is so sort of feed back which can confuse you when using test light with fuse in the slot.
You need the FUSE out of its slot to test it with digital meter resistance or continuity for best accuracy.
Usually the burnt out region is visible when seen from the side. There is a broken part inside the S or Z shape link, like below :
GET A SIMPLE TEST LIGHT, but best use a digital meter in resistance mode to check fuse just in case there is so sort of feed back which can confuse you when using test light with fuse in the slot.
You need the FUSE out of its slot to test it with digital meter resistance or continuity for best accuracy.
Usually the burnt out region is visible when seen from the side. There is a broken part inside the S or Z shape link, like below :
alhumdulillah il a theena fis a-ma wal ti-wal ardi’fann hudu.
it was a blown fuse, fuse 24.
Mr. Surya, thank you sooo much for your tutelage and guidance. 100% power restored. This is a testament to the previous issue I linked in this thread, and shows again (in reference to my issues with P1CCF), that the special Mercedes Code tells you exactly what’
s wrong .
Keep an eye on that fuse.
You see, fuse size/rating on MB or most cars are quite liberal vs expected working load.
So in 99.9% of the time, fuse SHOULD NOT blow-out, unless overload or sudden short circuit occurs either from loose wiring , damaged insulation of wiring or changes in amperage load of the devices due to age or
lowered insulation or heat, example the coils.
If that fuse blow-out again within say <50 hours of engine run-time, you need to identify the bad component/s.
The most hostile working environment are the coils and it is also the biggest power consumers at approx 10 amps ish, naturally it is high on the suspect list if anything goes wrong.
It is also an induction device, so the inrush current is high.
Oky doky, hope that fuse was a glitch and no more issue yah.
Keep an eye on that fuse.
You see, fuse size/rating on MB or most cars are quite liberal vs expected working load.
So in 99.9% of the time, fuse SHOULD NOT blow-out, unless overload or sudden short circuit occurs either from loose wiring , damaged insulation of wiring or changes in amperage load of the devices due to age or
lowered insulation or heat, example the coils.
If that fuse blow-out again within say <50 hours of engine run-time, you need to identify the bad component/s.
The most hostile working environment are the coils and it is also the biggest power consumers at approx 10 amps ish, naturally it is high on the suspect list if anything goes wrong.
It is also an induction device, so the inrush current is high.
Oky doky, hope that fuse was a glitch and no more issue yah.
I had some spare ignition coils I put in that seem to have made the car very happy, OE Mercedes Coils. The P2092/4 codes are pending so I'm waiting to see if they come back on over some 50-100 miles or so, no CEL so far after 10-15 and about 2 hours of idle under various amounts of load. so it's not bad, I haven't heard any scary slapping or ticking noises either, but I'm psychologically preparing myself to do the VVT sprockets.
1-- There are couple things you can do, the first one is to replace the 4x CPS -
Not only they are known as the No1 provider of oil-in-harness, they also grow weaker to the point the ECU can't read them right to figure camshaft position.
2-- While you are there install the pigtail adapters to help keep oil out of your harness - The new CPS seem to perform as well as old ones.
3-- Next: consider 2x weak chain tensioners...
4-- Next: intake VVT only!
5-- While you got your hood up... check for oil coming out of from oil pump solenoid connector.
6-- Let's see if M276/8 motors are impacted. The plastic sensor is cheep but late repairs can be astronomical (from 8 to $16k).
bottom left of crankshaft
newcomer to provide oil-in-harness
Hope this helps you well.
🤞
so far it seemed to be the fuse that controls the ignition coils and VVT/ Cam sensors. I think the fuse blew because of what you're thinking, oil wicking.
Keep an eye on that fuse.
You see, fuse size/rating on MB or most cars are quite liberal vs expected working load.
So in 99.9% of the time, fuse SHOULD NOT blow-out, unless overload or sudden short circuit occurs either from loose wiring , damaged insulation of wiring or changes in amperage load of the devices due to age or
lowered insulation or heat, example the coils.
If that fuse blow-out again within say <50 hours of engine run-time, you need to identify the bad component/s.
The most hostile working environment are the coils and it is also the biggest power consumers at approx 10 amps ish, naturally it is high on the suspect list if anything goes wrong.
It is also an induction device, so the inrush current is high.
Oky doky, hope that fuse was a glitch and no more issue yah.
Identifying the bad circuit requires a lot of super intelligent work to jump through mixed-up MB schematics.
Now we have more clues to understand, lets swap coils around before next shot.
The blown fuse is an indication something is cooking -- That what you need to find. Move the parts over to next bank. That way next blown fuse will provide you more facts.
Like Master Surya says the coils are the tricky load, not so much the PWM control solenoids.
Let's go the next step !
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 11-01-2022 at 12:06 PM.
10-30-2022, 03:34 PM
I had migrain when trying to learn all these.
