Westlotorn

I am trying to help a friend repair his daughters E350, 2013, M276. So far, replaced both Cam intake cam adjusters, removed all 4 camshafts and found 3 of 4 cam sensor wheels had moved on the camshaft. With the cam out I was able to move the wheel back into sync with the camshaft, there is a small faint line showing where each needs to be. With them in sync I decided to lock them so they can't move any more. The lip of the sensor wheel is about 1/4" wide. On each cam I drilled a small maybe 1/16" hole in each sensor wheel just deep enough to be touching the camshaft. The holes were barely deeper than the sensor wheel. Now I tack welded all 4 cams. Just a spot weld in the hole I drilled so there is a bump on the cam. The wheel can't turn on the cam without breaking this small weld. The Cam adjuster has plenty of clearance so I did not need to spend time cleaning and sanding the weld down for clearance. Computer now shows all 4 cams are properly in sync. ( I really wish I had welded the cams on my car when I had to install one new Cam Adjuster a couple months ago ) Both Tensioners were replaced along with the 2 added oil drain back valves. New Spark Plugs installed.
On start up all seemed good but #1 spark plug showing random misfires? I am thinking, Oh Crap, I damaged a valve installing the tensioners? Did a leak-down test, all cylinders are sealed up very well, less than 2% leak-down.

Plugs were new, pulled the #1 and #2 coils and spark plugs. #1 had certainly been misfiring, color was off, not fully fouled out but not clean like a new plug should be? Swapped the plugs and coils and fired it up again. Same Exact issue with #1 cylinder?

Scan Tool is showing #1 Injector voltages are off. I get to see two voltages there is a high and low. The High on #1 is around 176 volts, the other 5 cylinders range about 15 points lower than this around 160-165 normally. The low reading called electric charge of fuel injectors on my scan tool, #1 reads at .76-.82 while the other 5 cylinders read .58-.65?

My Scan tool also shows another check called: Smooth Operation of Cylinder and lists each #1-#6 to compare, it shows a Value in a number but does not say what it is measuring. For Comparison it shows #1 at idle is at 2.87 while the other 5 cylinders range between -.011 and +.88 so #1 is way off. I think it is showing the amount of fuel it is trying to inject or the injection time compared to a set norm in the system.

I replaced the injector, exact same OEM part number. Same Problem after injector change. I did install new Teflon Seals on the injectors. I double and triple checked the intake gaskets to make sure I don't have an intake gasket leak. I traced the wires back as far as I could in the harness looking for any possible shorts or pinched wires causing this. I have not found any issues yet, I did use my Multi tester tool and checked for continuity in the wires from the plug connector a few inches back into the harness and saw no issues.

My old simple scan tool does a quick check for LTFT and STFT, the bank 1 long term fuel trims are running +18 so the computer thinks it needs much more fuel on bank one. Bank 2 reading is showing -3.5 so Bank 2 is normal. My O2 sensors seem to be working and reporting normal combustion with identical temperatures on both sides and near identical reads before and after both cats. I expected them to be way off matching the Bank one Fuel issue?

On a road test if I drive it normally, no hard accelerations it runs like a top. I have run it up some pretty steep hills at 72 MPH, power is a little off compared to my 2012 E350 but it has 160,000 miles and my car is half of that. All was good till I pushed it harder and let it rev up past 5,000 RPM, misfires started and it throws the engine into limp mode and shuts Cyl #1 off till I shut off the engine and clear the misfire code. Then it runs good again.

Just for a test I removed #1 and #2 Coils and plugs again, swapped them and reinstalled. #1 is misfiring more than before? I have tried to move the coils around to see if the misfire followed the parts but the problem stays with #1.
OK, I wrote a book on this but I think you can feel my pain. My buddy's daughter wants her car back, I want it gone but can't give it back with this problem ongoing. It is something unique but why only in #1.
A rock solid leak down normally states Rings, Valves are all perfect? I looked at the valves for build up on the intakes and they are actually pretty clean.

I am hoping someone faced a similar issue and has a fix I can try. If nothing else I hope you enjoyed the read. Thanks Mark

PS: Why am I working on his car? I am retired and have time, she loved the looks, paint and stereo and bought it, it would not pass smog so he called for help so she can get it registered and drive it. Most of the trunk is a boom box. Not my cup of tea but she likes it.

CaliBenzDriver

Your friend is lucky to have you involved to solve his daughter's troubles. Limp mode on acceleration is interesting. You have this issue pretty well cornered but not yet pined down.

Excellent background double-checks and logical efforts to deal with No1. What you did would have fixed a normal car.

Currently: No1 cylinder has new everything with little/no improvement. Bank1 FT are still way off.


> Super LEAN:
To me and the ECU this misfire is consistent with a LEAN condition on Bank1.

Let's check FUEL PRESSURE readings... fuel filter - I know fuel delivery issues would affect both banks equally.

Strongly consider renewing or swapping primary O2-Lambda. They can lie when old sensor surface is sealed with combustion particulate. Hopefully these sensors were replaced once before 160kMi.


"Boombox car": check the range of running voltage is above 12.6 at all times. Car power feed connections may need to be cleaned or inspected (main chassis GND Strap!).


At some point you may to consider old MB Favorites like...

• CPS
• "Oil-in-harness"
• Intake seal leak

Hope for the best!
🤞


currently away visiting London

chassis

This is an early M276 which had some issues. Read this site for details, you have already apparently addressed the sensor plate slipping issue. The video below might not be your specific issue but it will help you decide which steps to take next.

You said you did a leakdown. Did you also do a physical (needle dial gage) compression test?

I don't see this as a fuel issue other than the injector.

Did you do a borescope to check for cylinder damage (scoring) or cracked piston? M276 isn't known for this but its cousins the M274 is well known for piston cracking and the M278 is well known for scoring.

Investing in a XENTRY system and online support time with @BenzNinja would be worthwhile for you.

Westlotorn

I have my white 2012 E350 car as a test dummy so I can scan it and then go scan the Black car, fuel pressures are identical between both so fuel pressure at the rail is not an issue. My compression tester won’t work in the deep plug holes on this engine. The Leak down tester shows no leaks, not in the rings, or valves or head gasket. I ran 100 PSI into the chamber while I rotated the engine. If there was al ring leak it would escape into the oil pan and out the oil filler cap which I had removed. I think mechanically the engine is solid. The Same fuel rail feeds 1,2 3 and 2 and 3 work perfectly.
Computer says all 4 cams are in sync. Again cyl 2 and 3 have no problems but #1 certainly does. I actually removed the #1 injector again and swapped in a good known working injector and had no change at all, #1 still mis fires. Exhaust smells clean so I think it really is short of fuel in #1 and not running rich. Last time I pulled the #1 the plug was a little wet so maybe the problem is on the coil side and not the injector side? I can turn the injectors on and off to watch RPM drop, all 6 seem similar at idle. Codes pulled keep coming back to misfires on Cyl #1?

Westlotorn

I have seen hundreds of scuffed pistons and burned cylinder walls in engines over the past 20 years at my job, all had distinct piston slap when running, sounds similar to a clicking lifter but with a different cadence. This engine is quiet and smooth. Unless Mercedes fails unique to all other engines I rule out scuffed piston or burned cylinder wall. No blow by, a sure sign of a burned piston with burned rings and a bad cylinder finish.

chassis

Sounds like you are moving fast. I would slow down.

This is a 10 year old car with high mileage and an engine known for some problems (early build M276).

You have a misfire. Fuel + spark + air + compression + timing = good combustion. You know this, but let's slow this down.

If you have 6 new Mercedes spark plugs (dealer purchased) and 6 new Mercedes coils (dealer purchased) you can rule out coils and plugs. Until then you can't. I wouldn't.

I would borescope for scored cylinders. I think you can rent them from a retail parts store (Advance Auto etc).

I would do an old-fashioned rubber hose compression test with a tool that reaches down into the spark plug well.

Westlotorn

I worked in parts manufacture for almost 40 years, I can share first hand that Mercedes builds cars, they make some of the parts that go in the cars but a big percentage of parts are supplied by vendors. Spark Plugs, Coils, Engine Bearings Pistons, Timing Components, Camshafts, Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Brakes and a thousand other parts are vendor supplied. Usually one vendor gets the largest contract and 2 more are signed on as back up suppliers to make sure the parts flow does not stop the production of cars. Going to Mercedes to buy parts does in most cases get you a good part normally but not always from the vendor that supplied parts to build your car. So best practice is to learn who supplied the OEM parts requirements and use those companies as trusted vendors when shopping for key parts. Many times this saves you 50% or more on parts.
The parts I used are from known vendors to Mercedes and they worked in other cylinders so no reason why they could not work in the #1 cylinder, in the coil example the coil worked fine in #2, put it in #1 and the misfire happens, same #1 parts installed in #2 work fine so you are correct what is different about #1? Still trying to figure that out. I am leaning towards a wire or computer issue but those areas are my weak points. The fact that it can come and go is also perplexing. I did order a replacement for my Compression tester but all indicators lean towards the cylinder walls, pistons, valves and rings are fine, all of those issues would not come and go, they would be bad, stay bad till fixed. Clearing a code would not fix any mechanical issue. Scuffed pistons create drag on the piston skirt and that makes a piston slap noise, I don't have that. The plugs installed were Bosch Iridium plugs, work great in 5 cylinders, 3 different plugs have been in #1 and all had misfires? It is not a spark plug issue. Reading this back it seems to point at a electrical supply issue, via the wire harness or the engine computer something is not getting where it needs to be. Low compression could certainly create this type problem but I have never seen low compression with a solid leak down test unless a cam lobe had gone flat. I think I will try to heat check all 6 cylinders while running to see if #1 is hotter or colder than the other cylinders. This test is hard to do when you have heat shields and the air cleaner in the way.
I appreciate all ideas because obviously I can't figure this one out.

juanmor40

Since you took out all the camshafts, you must have moved the engine wire harness around quite a bit.

I would look at the ground point for the wire harness (document attached courtesy of @S-Prihadi ), and also I would check the pins at important connection points. Bent/Loose pin? Poor connection at a connector? Those are gremlins nearly impossible to pinpoint, and only enough patience and commitment will find them. You seem to have that. We will stay here for updates, and suggestions when possible.

Westlotorn

Thanks so much for the diagram, I did purchase the Mercedes repair manual but after getting it open one time I have never been able to get it open again? Your information will certainly help rule out some basics. I would do back flips in the garage if it is just a bad ground!

juanmor40

Here is another thread which relates to obscures misfires (also courtesy of master @S-Prihadi ) https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...c250-w204.html

Definitely a different engine; however, the failure mode is MB's trademark --> Lego approach to car manufacturing.

S-Prihadi

West,
Attached the M276 3.5 NA ECM wiring schematic.

You done all the mechanical check, very good of you. It seems the M276 misfire symptoms is so "electrical".
I sure hope it is from intermittent bad contact and not ECM having internal electronic problem like my friend's M271.860 ECM.
Good thing for M276 is, the heavy, hot and electrically high noise switching or powering of ignition coils are not at the ECM anymore, but at each
stand alone COP itself. So electrical stress wise, M276 ECM is under less stress compared to M271 ECM having no true stand alone COP and has to handle the ignition stress internally inside its ECM.



Check all connections I marked red. It could be a soldered splice if Z type connection , W ( also splice and soldered ) type connection is usually screwed down to car or engine metal as W is always GROUND (negative). Female Terminal fitment is usually the bad boy and is a weak link at the harness to ECM, this is because at ECM side the female terminal at the incoming harness connector is usually smaller light duty version 1.2mm width, compared to COP connector which has 4 heavier duty female terminal of 2.8mm width.




Z2/1 is the ground for COP of right side bank, COP or cylinder 1, 2 and 3.
Z2/2 is the ground for COP of Left side Bank , COP or cylinder 4,5 and 6. These two Z2/* of 1mm cable size merged to W11 ground lug.
This I believe is for noise reduction, because MB always has 2 ground wires for its COP, one being POWER and one being Noise reduction.

The Z6z1 and Z6z2 are the true NEGATIVE POWER ( ground too ) for these coils/COP.
Easy to see that the cable size are bigger, at 1.5mm from COPs to any Z6z* and 2.5mm for interconnect between Z6z1 to Z6z2.
Also wiring title called Z6z1 and z2 as Circuit 31 connector sleeve. 31 means NEGATIVE in German DIN speak.
30 is POSITIVE, always have power positive or constant power or always HOT in USA speak.

This is the list for our W212. Albeit is for my E400, it is almost identical for M276 Front SAM.



Z7/38z1 is from a fuse source, this is the POSITIVE power for all 3 COP of Bank 1 ( right side bank ).
Z7/35z2 is from another fuse source, this is the POSITIVE power for all 3 COP of Bank 2 ( left side bank ).

Now, the POSITIVE power source which are Z7/38z1 and Z7/35z2 is not provided by the ECM nor wire harness of ECM, they are provided directly by
N10/1 Front SAM with its own connector X26. Z6z2 which is NEGATIVE power source is also not from ECM, but it is from W16/5 ground stud.



So we need to find connector 3M of Front SAM, pin 6 for Z7/35z2 and pin 5 for Z7/38z1 to learn which fuses are serving these 6 COP coils ?
We need schematic PE54.21-P2106DAC or E that C will mean 3rd sheet, E means 5th sheet. W212 Front SAM has 10 sheets. Attached sheet 3 and 5


Lets find Z7/38z1 first, at front sam sheet 5.


One has to be very careful when looking at Front SAM wiring, it covers entire W212 models , sometime MB made mistake too while we reader
also make mistake. First confirm that the connector at Front SAM is 3M and pin is 5 ...OK DONE.
Confirm that the X26 connector is also pin 5, OK DONE.
Confirm that we see Z7/38z1 , OK DONE
Confirm the engine we have is M276 and non turbo, so code is U1018. Here the M276.8 turbo 3.0 owners like me often get screwed.
=============
Sometime E400 owner can and must use code U1018, but when special M276.8 engine code exist in the document,
it will be code "U319" Valid for gasoline engine M276.8
=============

Observe that the circuit feeding 3M pin 5 is called 87M.
Remember that : in ECM wiring diagram , Z7/38z1 is called Circuit 87M1i connector sleeve.



Ignore those blue letters 87M1i
Lets trace 87M fuse source, below. It is Fuse #23 at Front SAM.






Will continue..................

S-Prihadi

Now lets find Z7/35z2, supposedly at sheet 3.... PE54.21-P2106DAC



Nope, we can't find Z7/35z2 at sheet 3. , well I am not suprised
And then eagle eyed user will say, how come the wiring diagram is a bit different, it has 97 on it.

The 97 is a step down number or a detailed number. Do not be confused with the additional 97, as long as the PE54.21-P2106 is correct , a P2106-97 is what MB will number the downstream
or more detailed schematic as.


OK, lets find which sheet of Front SAM is the correct one for Z7/35z2
ONE TIP : Never ever assume that 10 sheets of Front SAM wiring means 1 big diagram split into 10 sections for ease of use, it is NOT like that.
Each sheet has its own purpose, and not always connected to next upstream ( C to D ) or downstream ( D to C ).
W212 variants are so plenty, Front SAM wiring is the most complicated one in entire car. One need to remove like 60% of its content to fit one's car.
I made a lot of reading mistake when I first using Front SAM wiring....LOL.

I can't find Z7/35z2 at all other 9 sheets of Front SAM, guess what actually happened ?

MB misprint Z7/35z2 as Z7/5z2 in schematic, but in the list it is correctly printed as Z7/35z2


Coordinate is 97L, actually 96L


I told you, MB make mistake too.....

So U1018 gets Z7/35z2 , drafter forgot to place digit 3 ..........

Let's find the fuse source. It is fuse 24.




I am too lazy to trace every connection for fuse 23 and 24, if on my E400 them 2 fuses supppling power to all 6 COPs are sharing with other devices too : see below



Happy troubleshooting female terminal bad fitment or loose connection or cracked solder at splice.
COP for my engine is higher than 10 amps, I believed it was like 12 amps or there about.
So if you want to do load test on the wire, if you can load at least 12 amps if not 15 amps would be good.

S-Prihadi

There are a few X26 connectors at engine bay, example for my E400 X26 is in this post : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...lor-blind.html
I never study X26 of M276 3.5L NA, but it could be more than 1 of them too, almost guaranteed.

Here it is : https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...tment-left.pdf

also , Splice 101
=============
The diamond like square sign means splice or many many wires paralled there. So when u see such sign, find the next one and dont expect a drawn line between them, it is understood that
they can be everywhere, hence the wiring diag description list with all the coordinates can show where they ALL are.







Note : I never could find W16/5 ground actual location : Post #12
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post8660755


Insertion or mating life cycle of female/male terminals used on MB cars.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...onnectors.html


OK good luck.....

Westlotorn

Wow, that is 100 times more help than I deserve for sure. Thank You, prior to seeing this I spent about 8 hours last night trying to get the WIS to work. Finally I think the problem is with my computer, I originally downloaded this on Windows 7 software, I was forced to upgrade to Windows 10 between when it last worked for me and now. I don't think it works or at least the version I downloaded works with Windows 10? I still have a lot of reading and learning to do before chasing the electrical, your notes are fantastic but I need to get up to speed on all the acronyms used: SAM etc. A learning curve but without the diagrams I could not move forward.

These notes should be in a Help File for the M276 so they could be accessed moving forward by all owners if needed.

Westlotorn

My logic says the injector is not injecting enough fuel, this causes misfire and the computer shuts off this cylinder by shutting off the #1 injector?. With fuel off the O2 sensors still get extra air from the now dead cylinder and that triggers the +18 LTFT. I think if the Coil was the problem on #1 I would have a very wet spark plug and the O2 sensors would be running very rich, not very lean like my bank 1 is reading??? Just trying to figure this out.
When the car is running well I can shut off each injector one at a time and all seem to have the same RPM drop when shut off. When the engine light is on for #1 misfires I can do the same fuel injector shut down test and #1 makes no difference at all in RPMs. So the Limp mode in the computer has #1 injector shut off.
My question would be can the Coil On Plug if acting up be detected as a misfire and would the computer then shut down the Injector in #1?
The running voltages in #1 Injector are certainly not the same as the other 5 cylinders even when the engine is running perfectly with no check engine light.

Sorry if slow getting information back, my family was hit with COVID this week so moving slower than normal. Hope to be better soon.

juanmor40

You seem to know quite a bit about this engine by now, but additional information never hurts.

chassis

You need XENTRY. Why would #1 injector be shut down?

Westlotorn

Thanks Juanmor40, I have seen that video, the guy struggled to get the injectors back in and took a few steps that are not necessary, removing the locator pins? I have had M276 injectors out of a few engines and never had to move the locator pins or the vent tube for the PCV, both stay in place if you remove the HPP protector shield and loosen all the injector line clamps and there are 5 of them I think. It is not a fun job and his video does a good job showing many of the steps in detail. I certainly need to study and learn the electrical side to fix this one.

S-Prihadi

West wrote :
Plugs were new, pulled the #1 and #2 coils and spark plugs. #1 had certainly been misfiring, color was off, not fully fouled out but not clean like a new plug should be? Swapped the plugs and coils and fired it up again. Same Exact issue with #1 cylinder?

Usually the ECM logic is to kill spark/coil and stop injector on the problem cyclinder.
Electrical wiring check on the injector #1 should also be done as how we would do with the COP.

=====================

West wrote :
My Scan tool also shows another check called: Smooth Operation of Cylinder and lists each #1-#6 to compare, it shows a Value in a number but does not say what it is measuring. For Comparison it shows #1 at idle is at 2.87 while the other 5 cylinders range between -.011 and +.88 so #1 is way off. I think it is showing the amount of fuel it is trying to inject or the injection time compared to a set norm in the system.

Here is an explanation of typical smooth running. Basically crankshaft speed variation, which if too much difference means combustion event not good.

You Tube

West wrote :
I replaced the injector, exact same OEM part number. Same Problem after injector change. I did install new Teflon Seals on the injectors. I double and triple checked the intake gaskets to make sure I don't have an intake gasket leak. I traced the wires back as far as I could in the harness looking for any possible shorts or pinched wires causing this. I have not found any issues yet, I did use my Multi tester tool and checked for continuity in the wires from the plug connector a few inches back into the harness and saw no issues.

New injector has to be "coded" , its a barcode or number on injector itself which represent its calibration value.
Something like this : https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...59756-2280.pdf
Injectors injection quantity won't be 100% the same, maybe few percent plus-minus, and this variation data is what we tell the ECM.
However, if the new injector is good, fuel trim may be different a bit and should not cause LIMP mode issue.

West wrote :
My old simple scan tool does a quick check for LTFT and STFT, the bank 1 long term fuel trims are running +18 so the computer thinks it needs much more fuel on bank one. Bank 2 reading is showing -3.5 so Bank 2 is normal. My O2 sensors seem to be working and reporting normal combustion with identical temperatures on both sides and near identical reads before and after both cats. I expected them to be way off matching the Bank one Fuel issue?

+18 LTFT is very high. I can't comment of the exhaust temperatures, I never monitor them when having one cylinder deactivated. Also them 02 sensors dont work well till 400C and above.


If you have a decents scope, we can try to read electrically how the injector pintle is opening and how its electrical signature looks like compared to a known good injector.
Lacking of a scope, but with strong indication the issue does not correct itself with known good spark plug & COP, perhaps one last try is to swap your new #1 injector with #2, and if problem still at cylinder #1, have a go at the wires for injector and COP of cylinder 1.

I would probably do this with the injectors :
Old #1 injector, place it at cylinder 3.
New #1 injector, place it at cylinder 2.
Existing #2 injector, place it at cylinder 1.
This way you also verify if old injector #1 is really bad or not ?

I never mess with my injector yet, I do not have the high pressure seal insertion tool and touch wood, my injector is still fine.
I did replace my HP fuel pump already, for fun... ha ha ha.



Injectors are purely wired and powered to/by ECM due to its very high voltage. When using scope with common ground, be very careful for injectors.
In fact even a floating ground scope if at this very high voltage is risky if wired wrong. Pico 4425A : maximum 30 V common mode voltage difference between channel grounds





West wrote :
Scan Tool is showing #1 Injector voltages are off. I get to see two voltages there is a high and low. The High on #1 is around 176 volts, the other 5 cylinders range about 15 points lower than this around 160-165 normally. The low reading called electric charge of fuel injectors on my scan tool, #1 reads at .76-.82 while the other 5 cylinders read .58-.65?

Too bad I never measured or scoped my injectors yet.Someday I should, for learning sake.


GLOBAL OBD2, Mode 6
Autel or any decent scanner has this menu and you can use it for misfire count too.
Again, the basis of calculation is crankshaft RPM changes, if too much, it is deemed as misfire.

You Tube

Seeing 176V for injectors voltage, it is very high. Older generation injectors do not exceed 100V.
If high voltage is present, I would also may investigate insulation failure.
Albeit 176V is not very high if compared to COP's few thousand volts, we need to keep this information at the back of our mind.
Example, my country electrical voltage is 230/400V. So single phase is 230V and 3 phase is 400V.
In the US, you guys use split 120/240V for homes, so bigger power device uses 240V in USA and small power devices uses 120V.

Most wires we run to an outdoor push button bell at the gate or any garden lights, where all these are exposed to the elements, will usually
fail much ahead compared to wires inside the house. The common failure is not a direct short circuit, but an insulation failure which overload the wires and then
trip the breaker ( MCB ). Ignore this fault and when insulation failed so bad, we then get direct short circuit or/and burnt wires if MCB rating too big.

A non hybrid car, is considered a 12V system.
ISO defines low voltage cable to 60V
https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:...:-1:ed-1:v1:en

3.1.2
60 V cable
cable (3.3.8) intended for use in road vehicle applications where the nominal system voltage is less than or equal to 30 V a.c. or 60 V d.c.

========== PROBABLY HYBRID CARS FOR BELOW =============
3.1.3
900 V cable
cable (3.3.8) intended for use in road vehicle applications where the nominal system voltage is less than or equal to 600 V a.c. or 900 V d.c.

3.1.4
1 500 V cable
cable (3.3.8) intended for use in road vehicle applications where the nominal system voltage is less than or equal to 1 000 V a.c. or 1 500 V d.c.


Since we are discussing electrical issue, we shall think of all possibilities to make the troubleshooting complete.
I have a Fluke 1587 insulation tester, but not worth buying one unless you are an electrical tool junkie like me or need to use it often.
Actually your post is very good for me too West , I will when I am back home to Jakarta ( now in Bali ) take a peek at what wires are used by MB for fuel injectors.
It need to be using equal to a 400V rated wire , and since I am keeping my car if possible to 20 years old, I will surely need to watch out for them injector wires.
Heat and water submersion kill insulation of wires, that is a given fact.

I know this will sound rather laboriuos, but if I were you and have done the electrical connection integrity inspection I suggested on my earlier post, my next
step would be to insulate at least 1 overlapping wrap of 3M 35 or 3M 33+ electrical tape for both wires of injector #1, just in case there is a pin hole leak on its insulation.

S-Prihadi

I forgot to mention, this means twisted wires. Like how CAN BUS wires are




Twistng those wires, most likely to prevent EMI from escaping to other wires, aside from EMI protection for itself.

https://www.northamptonmotorsport.co...ser_manual.pdf

S-Prihadi

Here is a good video showing injector coding using Xentry. Misfire problem too, semi clogged injector.
Smooth Running explained/shown. Misfire counter or FAULT COUNTER shown.


COP as the bad boy causing misfire. Launch scanner and using scope. This is a 4 wire COP like yours/mine.

Westlotorn

My Scan tool is a Launch X431V+, it allows 2 way communication to the car computer. It does allow me to count misfires in each cylinder. I have not found a way to watch wave lengths as injectors fire. It may have the ability but I have not found it yet. Since my car is a 2012 E350 same engine and runs perfectly I have been able to go back and forth between them looking for norms. My cars injectors all show 156 -150 V while running on the high side power measurement. The Black car on #1 only shows the 172 V measurement.

I did not program the new injector, had no idea coding was necessary or programming. I thought it was a drop in and run it part?

Still fighting COVID so not working in the garage much.

juanmor40

I do not have a Launch; however, this video shows its usage for injector matching for another brand


It seems the injector matching/coding may be behind the "Special Functions" menu

AllPhonesAretap

Check your in tank Fuel Pump!

If your injectors are squirting the right amount, it could be they arent atomizing properly and letting fuel just dribble out.

Westlotorn

Fuel Pressures have been checked and are perfect. Only #1 Injector is not working properly.

I read about coding the injector for the car on install, I had not programmed the injector and thought, Wow, this might be the simple solution. Unfortunately the Injector has to be removed to read the coding on the side of the injector. Did that today. Pulled injector, Got the code off the injector, Programmed it into this car. Started the engine Thinking finally solution is here. NO JOY, same exact issue. #1 Misfires.

Checking the system while running there is no doubt the computer shuts down the #1 injector when the issue is found. I will watch the misfires after starting the engine with a recent code clearing. Starts well, misfires start at idle, rev it a few times and it kicks the check engine light and shuts off the #1 injector fuel. I did swap the coils again from #1 to #2 just as a test. Swapped injector also. Problem stayed with #1 Cylinder. When the injector is working the engine is smooth as glass, once it is shut off the engine runs on 5 cylinders and is a shaker with little power. Maybe it is the Coil On Plug Wiring or the Computer driver not working for #1 Coil on plug. Still odd that it can come and go. I tried wiggling the wires for the injector and the COP with no notice of a change. Tried playing with the wires at the ECM connector, cleaned the ECM connector very well. No Change. It may still be a pinched wire in the harness or a loose connector. Wish I could find it soon. Thanks again for all the help.
Voltage at the #1 injector still reads higher than the other cylinders. Once the Check engine light turns on and #1 is shut off by the computer the voltage jumps to almost 12V on #1 while staying below 1V on the other 5 cyinders.