Tranny & Engine mounts, the consumable comfort component




For those who is lacking of sensitivity towards vibration caused by engine mounts and/or tranny mounts already sinking too deep, or bought the car pre-owned and assume whatever it does "today"
is the norm..... I am showing you some visuals to help you guys make your car more comfy.
Easiest to see is tranny mount. A mirror can help, or a boroscope.
When I bought the car pre-owned, in May 2018. By August 2018 I reset the mounts, all 3 replaced.
Unloaded visual, using tranny mount mounting holes as reference to the sinking of the mount.
Unloaded, side my side.
.
The then new one in Oct 2020, by today 15,500KM later or car mileage 39,500KM as per 25 March 2024
As per my previous calculation, I would say that maximum 25,000KM of use for best comfort will still be my target.
Below LEFT is a Youtube sample of a guaranteed "kissing" mount to its bottom side when loaded with tranny weight. So vibration is guaranteed.
The RIGHT side is my very 1st mount original to the car, when it was replaced on 15th Aug 2018.
==================
Engine mounts
The black rubber flap should never ever touch the mount raise body. That is a fail already.
Example as per my link below, my friend's W204 mount already vibrating the engine like a junk car.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...tear-down.html
........
My LEFT side, also 10,500 KM driven, same as RIGHT side one.
.
Engine mounts is good comfy to 25,000 KM too for me. I am hyper sensitive to "vibrations".
My roads are bad.
My driving is HARD, kick down and WOT red line often.
Also my highway bridges joints are bad, even my rear suspension can bottom out. This put stress on all 3 mounts too.
There is no speed limit per-se in my country
....it is easily forgiven if not forgotten.So, take a peek under you car, inspect those 3 mounts and enjoy a more comfy ride...............
When all 3 mounts are new, reset your azz-dyno.... that is reference point of a good set of mounts.
Drive safe.....




Have you looked at your bushings and subframe mounts?




Great ask :
Please enjoy .................... https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...hing-tool.html
And if you are worried more plastic + hoses will crack in your 10+ years old engine, read here :
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...rts-renew.html




Also learned a valuable lesson with MB in general. My next one, if it's a sedan, won't be 4matic. RWD only for me now. Changing the motor mounts in a RWD 212 vs an AWD 212 is notably difference and far easier in the RWD.




But I digress. I agree--replace your rubber often.




Please enjoy .................... https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...hing-tool.html
And if you are worried more plastic + hoses will crack in your 10+ years old engine, read here :
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...rts-renew.html




But I digress. I agree--replace your rubber often.
Trending Topics




Also learned a valuable lesson with MB in general. My next one, if it's a sedan, won't be 4matic. RWD only for me now. Changing the motor mounts in a RWD 212 vs an AWD 212 is notably difference and far easier in the RWD.
That is a lot of distance if it were for my use case

Since the 3 mounts does its job so well, I can't be too pissed with its peak-comfy short service life.
I have front wheel drive cars I drive much harder, by 25,000KM the mounts will "knock" ( must be bottoming out ) upon fast gear change 1 to 2 or aggressive 1st gear clutch release. A manual tranny.
FWD eat mounts faster if apple to apple to a RWD car.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Granted, cars had way less torquey engines than now (compared to back in say W123 days), but engine and tranny mounts have also gotten bigger to compensate. And this doesn't affect shocks too much, although the entire car is heavier so that comes into play...
I'm not complaining--I knew what I signed up for getting this car. I wanted the car with all the goods and bads of modernity that were totally expected. I'm about to rip half my engine bay apart this weekend to replace a tiny buried piece of plastic that obviously wasn't meant to be serviced, yet wasn't designed to last more than 10 years. (There is a stress riser designed into the part at the base of a long lever arm which has a vibrating hose attached to it. This, combined with crappy plastic and temperature cycling just looks like a total oversight.) Nevertheless, totally worth it.
Last edited by ChuangTzu; Mar 28, 2024 at 12:36 AM.




If your tranny oil cooler is a combo with your main radiator ( also plastic at the sides ) , the rubber seal inside will fail and you can't replace them (2 pcs ) anyway, so the whole radiator must go if you
want to avoid tranny oil mixed with coolant killing tranny.
I think if M278 engine, it has stand alone tranny oil cooler like my M276 3.0 Turbo
Must see EPC and car VIN to be sure
An M278 has 2 coolant+oil seal as time bomb which serve as cross-over seal between engine block via/crossing timing chain region and then to coolant circ pump and oil cooler.
My M276 3.0 turbo has similar time bomb too, but 2 round seal/o-ring only. M278 has a molded seal and 1 round o-ring. The molded seal is the weaker one, this is for oil cooler.
If these 2 seals leak, coolant enter timing chain oil bath region and cocktail you get.
These turbo engines are unlike older NA engines. These run hot and has so much more power.
I described my 2 o-rings sorrow here
, it has M278 as case study and its TSBhttps://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...r-replace.html




Leamforder is said to be short leaved
I guess Febi or Coteco then?
My tranny mount is only 15kMi from when I fixed my ISM shifter.





