Hi, new to MB. Having an issue with recently acquired 2010 E350 4MATIC at 98,878 miles atm.
When the car is idling in N/P position, no vibrations & idle rpm is 600. Shift it to D, or R and rpm drops to 500, and you can feel the vibration. The vibration gets severe if car is in R or D when you turn the wheel (rpm drops to 500). Transmission mount replaced at 68,xxx miles. Is it engine mounts, if yes, why is the idle rpm in gear at 500 instead of 600? Any help is appreciated! Very rarely when the car is maintaining 600 rpm’s in all situations (even while in gear at a light) there is no vibration at all.
Hi, new to MB. Having an issue with recently acquired 2010 E350 4MATIC at 98,878 miles atm.
When the car is idling in N/P position, no vibrations & idle rpm is 600. Shift it to D, or R and rpm drops to 500, and you can feel the vibration. The vibration gets severe if car is in R or D when you turn the wheel (rpm drops to 500). Transmission mount replaced at 68,xxx miles. Is it engine mounts, if yes, why is the idle rpm in gear at 500 instead of 600? Any help is appreciated! Very rarely when the car is maintaining 600 rpm’s in all situations (even while in gear at a light) there is no vibration at all.
NOTE: When shifted to R, there is a slight jerk.
that is a good summary account. Vibrations have many causes... usually it's synonymous with weak contributions.
Mounts DO NOT cause vibrations, engine does!
When were the spark plugs + coils + boots + air filter replaced?
How about engine + tranny oils??
How often does black engine oil gets replaced?
this is the cause of imbalanced cylinders... shaky engines.
I see... Any pre-own guarantee with that slightly used purchase?
No. The car drives well, no issue. Right CV axle needs to be replaced as it’s torn. Some other people have had similar issue, never found a fix. Just read somebody replaced all mounts, ignition coils and plugs and that didn’t help. I wonder what it could be that’s causing the rpm to be at 500 instead of 6. While turning the wheel (even at idle), there is severe vibration. Engine oil is normal color.
No. The car drives well, no issue. Right CV axle needs to be replaced as it’s torn. Some other people have had similar issue, never found a fix. Just read somebody replaced all mounts, ignition coils and plugs and that didn’t help. I wonder what it could be that’s causing the rpm to be at 500 instead of 6. While turning the wheel (even at idle), there is severe vibration.
Nice, then nothing to complain about.
Throw a pair of engine mounts or just bank2 side only.
I would still like to get it fixed. Today, the car maintained 600 rpm’s in all situations (idle, with wheel turning, in D/R) and it felt like a new car! Just wondering if it’s an easy fix, or not.
Hi, new to MB. Having an issue with recently acquired 2010 E350 4MATIC at 98,878 miles atm.
When the car is idling in N/P position, no vibrations & idle rpm is 600. Shift it to D, or R and rpm drops to 500, and you can feel the vibration. The vibration gets severe if car is in R or D when you turn the wheel (rpm drops to 500). Transmission mount replaced at 68,xxx miles. Is it engine mounts, if yes, why is the idle rpm in gear at 500 instead of 600? Any help is appreciated! Very rarely when the car is maintaining 600 rpm’s in all situations (even while in gear at a light) there is no vibration at all.
My car is same year and model as yours with 150k miles. It idles at 500 RPM when warm and in gear and its is so quiet and smooth in the cabin that you don't know that it is running. It had the mounts replaced 20k miles ago but before they were replaced it wasn't as bad as you describe. There was a little vibration off idle.
My car is same year and model as yours with 150k miles. It idles at 500 RPM when warm and in gear and its is so quiet and smooth in the cabin that you don't know that it is running. It had the mounts replaced 20k miles ago but before they were replaced it wasn't as bad as you describe. There was a little vibration off idle.
The vibration is little but it’s noticeable. Thanks for your help.
Well, in gear and turning the steering wheel, you are putting a load on the engine and will cause the rpms to drop and likely more vibration. The engine mounts may need replacing. Be sure to use Genuine or OE, not OEM or aftermarket. (OE is the same as Genuine with the logo scratched off.)
Well, in gear and turning the steering wheel, you are putting a load on the engine and will cause the rpms to drop and likely more vibration. The engine mounts may need replacing. Be sure to use Genuine or OE, not OEM or aftermarket. (OE is the same as Genuine with the logo scratched off.)
Just got it checked today. All 3 mounts are blown, as well as front sway bar links. Will likely get them done in 2 days, quoted $1,435 for everything with genuine parts although I am skeptical since the parts might just be aftermarket.
Just got it checked today. All 3 mounts are blown, as well as front sway bar links. Will likely get them done in 2 days, quoted $1,435 for everything with genuine parts although I am skeptical since the parts might just be aftermarket.
Corteco is the OE manufacturer for a lot of Mercedes parts. Though Corteco is shown as OEM on FCP's site for your car, they are shown as OE elsewhere. I have no problem recommending them. Lemforder is shown as the OE for the tranny mount.
If the shop does use Genuine parts from Mercedes, half the price they quoted would be parts. But, instead of Mercedes Genuine you use Corteco, you can save quite a bit. It's really up to you.
Corteco is the OE manufacturer for a lot of Mercedes parts. Though Corteco is shown as OEM on FCP's site for your car, they are shown as OE elsewhere. I have no problem recommending them. Lemforder is shown as the OE for the tranny mount.
If the shop does use Genuine parts from Mercedes, half the price they quoted would be parts. But, instead of Mercedes Genuine you use Corteco, you can save quite a bit. It's really up to you.
The shop would probably not use anything else other than genuine parts since they work on really
high end luxury cars, and some indy’s do this to make more money. The end difference is only about $300-400 if I use Corteco rather than genuine parts. With mounts being so essential, I would rather pay the extra and not have a headache later although I’ve heard Corteco is the the exact same thing as geniune MB.
I don't understand how rubber mounts can drop the idle Rpm ?
Do you have an MB scanner to pull codes?
No codes. That is what worries me too, but somebody said their car was doing the exact same thing. When an engine with broken mounts is in gear, it puts additional load onto it and it drops rpm’s which made no sense to me but upon physical diagnosis, that’s what it is. I hope to get the work done in 2 days and report back.
The end difference is only about $300-400 if I use Corteco rather than genuine parts. With mounts being so essential, I would rather pay the extra and not have a headache later although I’ve heard Corteco is the the exact same thing as geniune MB.
Sure. Just providing options. And, if you are paying for labor, you don't want to have it done more often than necessary.
When in Neutral, tranny does not carry engine load as power transfer has not happen yet.
When in Drive or Reverse, tranny takes the engine power....hence engine RPM will drop accordingly. Usually 75RPM or so.
So in D or R, engine get loaded with real load and shake more when engine and tranny mounts are already weak and sinking down.
Engine flywheel spin to send power when in D or R, it would be CCW rotation if seen from end of engine towards front of engine.
RIGHT side engine mount get pulled up and left side mount get compressed, to an amount in twisting force equal to move the car from standstill to moving or accelerating.
The weaker the engine mount, the more twisted it get upon power applied to tranny>>wheels.
If engine mount is so weak, misalignment happens between engine+tranny to main propeller shaft towards differential, so this extra shake can happen from this "misalignment" too.
Happy to report that I received the car back with all three new mounts and there is no vibration, at all. It is SO smooth and quiet, as if the engine has just magically disappeared. What I noticed while taking off from lights and stop signs is that the engine isn't as stressed as it was, and lesser engine noise - everything is just super silky smooth now, just the way it should be.
Happy to report that I received the car back with all three new mounts and there is no vibration, at all. It is SO smooth and quiet, as if the engine has just magically disappeared. What I noticed while taking off from lights and stop signs is that the engine isn't as stressed as it was, and lesser engine noise - everything is just super silky smooth now, just the way it should be.
Great news : ) Thanks for updating us.
By the way, I don't think you would but unplugging the oil pump solenoid might also make the engine smoother.
The other thing is if not considering the oil pump solenoid mod is apparently certain types of engine oil also affects the smoothness.
That said, since you are already experiencing such smoothness and quietness, I would just recommend keeping it as is.
Happy to report that I received the car back with all three new mounts and there is no vibration, at all. It is SO smooth and quiet, as if the engine has just magically disappeared. What I noticed while taking off from lights and stop signs is that the engine isn't as stressed as it was, and lesser engine noise - everything is just super silky smooth now, just the way it should be.
If your road quality is decent and you drive gentle, next 40K miles is probably maximum comfy life you will get out these 3 mounts, before it becomes 25% as bad as it was last week.
Now, train your muscle memory and butt sensor and fingers on steering..... to appreciate and remember this is how smooth a NORMAL W212 should be related to engine and tranny
vibration transfer.
By the way, I don't think you would but unplugging the oil pump solenoid might also make the engine smoother.
The other thing is if not considering the oil pump solenoid mod is apparently certain types of engine oil also affects the smoothness.
That said, since you are already experiencing such smoothness and quietness, I would just recommend keeping it as is.
Thank you for the suggestion. It’s unbelievable how smooth this car is, even the shop owner (a car enthusiast himself) was shocked at how clean this example was.
If your road quality is decent and you drive gentle, next 40K miles is probably maximum comfy life you will get out these 3 mounts, before it becomes 25% as bad as it was last week.
Now, train your muscle memory and butt sensor and fingers on steering..... to appreciate and remember this is how smooth a NORMAL W212 should be related to engine and tranny
vibration transfer.
Roads aren’t the best but I am very gentle with it. Honestly, it’ll take me a few days before I’m used to the 0.00 vibration. The car had original mounts which explains why they went bad after 14 years and 99,000 miles. Second trans mount, the last one was done in 2017.
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