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I think the InstrumentCluster display message needs to be reset manually.
I recall a ridiculously complicated push button procedure to reset what has been automatic for decades on HondAcura.
I think the InstrumentCluster display message needs to be reset manually.
I recall a ridiculously complicated push button procedure to reset what has been automatic for decades on HondAcura.
See WIS or YouTube...
I don't need to reset this message. It goes away with new battery in the key.
OP, you probably bought a low new battery. These batteries have shelf life and sometimes you just buy a battery that is already low.
Also, the key fob comes with CR2025 battery, but I started using CR2032. It is a snug fit and I need a tool to get it out, but it gives a lot longer battery life.
I don't need to reset this message. It goes away with new battery in the key.
OP, you probably bought a low new battery. These batteries have shelf life and sometimes you just buy a battery that is already low.
Also, the key fob comes with CR2025 battery, but I started using CR2032. It is a snug fit and I need a tool to get it out, but it gives a lot longer battery life.
I tried the other battery and it works just fine, so I think you are right. I had one low battery.
2032s can give you more extended battery life but I stick to 2025s , I stick to the manufacturer's recommendation .Good to hear new battery works fine for the op as well
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I get bulk batteries on Amazon. Also, if the CR2032 fit, they should be OK since CR2025 and CR2032 are the same voltage. I personally wouldn't want to put the extra pressure on the circuit board in the fob squeezing in a thicker battery since the fobs are so damned expensive! Over time, the thicker batter could cause the PC board to bend or crack, damaging the board.
I get bulk batteries on Amazon. Also, if the CR2032 fit, they should be OK since CR2025 and CR2032 are the same voltage. I personally wouldn't want to put the extra pressure on the circuit board in the fob squeezing in a thicker battery since the fobs are so damned expensive! Over time, the thicker batter could cause the PC board to bend or crack, damaging the board.
Ah, I knew that number sounded familiar. CR2032 were used in Tamagotchis my kids used to play.
Fwiw, the dash throws that low batt warning far to early IMO! I have gone months --yeah, many months-- with the same battery after the first warning. Only when the keyless entry got intermittent, like took a second touch of the handle to unlock the door, is when I finally replaced the battery. I wish I had recorded how much longer I got, but it was easily over three months more, if not longer. And even then, I should have logged how often keyless entry was intermittent. Maybe the next low-battery warning I will do just that. I know a CR2025 is cheap, but I feel stupid throwing away money because the factory told me to.
The 2032 battery goes in the R232 key fob.
Here is an excerpt from the owners manual for replacing the fob battery…
I probably should try to post this in an appropriate R232 thread, while I am thinking about it as well.
I mentioned this on another "Key Fob" thread, but repetition is free, so:
Try "tightening" the positive battery contacts. Remove the battery. You will see a shiny battery contact in the battery compartment. Using a small tool (I use a dental pick), gently lift each of the four contact tabs away from the circuit board a bit. They should remain just a bit "higher" than they used to be. Re-assemble the fob with a known good battery. The contacts will now have just a bit more pressure onto the battery, making a better contact and getting the battery's full voltage to the circuit board.
I've used this on two 2015 MB's -- a GLK and an E-Class. Worked on both.
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