1/4 Million Km 2015 E250 Maintenance time!
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E250 GLE300d
1/4 Million Km 2015 E250 Maintenance time!
My 2015 E250 4Matic is sitting at 167,000 miles.
I am the original owner and I'm trying to do a good job maintaining the car: 28 oil changes, multiple air filters, fuel filters, cabin filters, etc. I changed the transmission fluid at 75K. Getting ready to do that again now.
I just changed the rear differential fluid (first time - oversight). Fluid was very dirty and the plugs were just about rusted out.
I've got the serpentine belt on order. I plan to change it and check the tensioner and pulleys and water pump. Coolant is original. I suspect I should have just bought all of it, but I figured I'd spin 'em first. I inspected this a couple of years ago and it was all running like new then.
New brake calipers, brake pads (Akebonos are awesome!) and fluid. New tires.
I feel the front end wander a little under braking. I replaced the sway bar link (bushings shot). I assume I'll need to replace the front control arms too to get the car driving like new again.
What else do contemplate for pro-active maintenance on a high mileage car? I'd like this car to go another 5 years and ~50K miles. Thoughts???
Thanks,
Mike
I am the original owner and I'm trying to do a good job maintaining the car: 28 oil changes, multiple air filters, fuel filters, cabin filters, etc. I changed the transmission fluid at 75K. Getting ready to do that again now.
I just changed the rear differential fluid (first time - oversight). Fluid was very dirty and the plugs were just about rusted out.
I've got the serpentine belt on order. I plan to change it and check the tensioner and pulleys and water pump. Coolant is original. I suspect I should have just bought all of it, but I figured I'd spin 'em first. I inspected this a couple of years ago and it was all running like new then.
New brake calipers, brake pads (Akebonos are awesome!) and fluid. New tires.
I feel the front end wander a little under braking. I replaced the sway bar link (bushings shot). I assume I'll need to replace the front control arms too to get the car driving like new again.
What else do contemplate for pro-active maintenance on a high mileage car? I'd like this car to go another 5 years and ~50K miles. Thoughts???
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by mfab; May 6, 2025 at 10:56 AM.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,924
Likes: 6,776
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
My 2015 E250 4Matic is sitting at 167,000 miles.
I am the original owner and I'm trying to do a good job maintaining the car: 28 oil changes, multiple air filters, fuel filters, cabin filters, etc. I changed the transmission fluid at 75K. Getting ready to do that again now.
I just changed the rear differential fluid (first time - oversight). Fluid was very dirty and the plugs were just about rusted out.
I've got the serpentine belt on order. I plan to change it and check the tensioner and pulleys and water pump. Coolant is original. I suspect I should have just bought all of it, but I figured I'd spin 'em first. I inspected this a couple of years ago and it was all running like new then.
New brake calipers, brake pads (Akebonos are awesome!) and fluid. New tires.
I feel the front end wander a little under braking. I replaced the sway bar link (bushings shot). I assume I'll need to replace the front control arms too to get the car driving like new again.
What else do contemplate for pro-active maintenance on a high mileage car? I'd like this car to go another 5 years and ~50K miles. Thoughts???
Thanks,
Mike
I am the original owner and I'm trying to do a good job maintaining the car: 28 oil changes, multiple air filters, fuel filters, cabin filters, etc. I changed the transmission fluid at 75K. Getting ready to do that again now.
I just changed the rear differential fluid (first time - oversight). Fluid was very dirty and the plugs were just about rusted out.
I've got the serpentine belt on order. I plan to change it and check the tensioner and pulleys and water pump. Coolant is original. I suspect I should have just bought all of it, but I figured I'd spin 'em first. I inspected this a couple of years ago and it was all running like new then.
New brake calipers, brake pads (Akebonos are awesome!) and fluid. New tires.
I feel the front end wander a little under braking. I replaced the sway bar link (bushings shot). I assume I'll need to replace the front control arms too to get the car driving like new again.
What else do contemplate for pro-active maintenance on a high mileage car? I'd like this car to go another 5 years and ~50K miles. Thoughts???
Thanks,
Mike
The couple things I would add are
- DENSO radiator
- Tstat
- ALT OE brush Module
- seal electric connectors at front/rear end
- Any camshaft CPS on 300D??
- glow plugs + control module
- rear sway bar links
- adjust wheel bearings free play
- clear roof drains from overflowing
I dunno 4M besides passenger front shaft is coming...
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 126
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E250 GLE300d
Congrats on your maintenance and knowledge of MB wear items
The couple things I would add are
I dunno 4M besides passenger front shaft is coming...
The couple things I would add are
- DENSO radiator
- Tstat
- ALT OE brush Module
- seal electric connectors at front/rear end
- Any camshaft CPS on 300D??
- glow plugs + control module
- rear sway bar links
- adjust wheel bearings free play
- clear roof drains from overflowing
I dunno 4M besides passenger front shaft is coming...
Thanks!
/
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,222
Likes: 6,281
Congrats on your maintenance and knowledge of MB wear items
The couple things I would add are
I dunno 4M besides passenger front shaft is coming...
The couple things I would add are
- DENSO radiator
- Tstat
- ALT OE brush Module
- seal electric connectors at front/rear end
- Any camshaft CPS on 300D??
- glow plugs + control module
- rear sway bar links
- adjust wheel bearings free play
- clear roof drains from overflowing
I dunno 4M besides passenger front shaft is coming...
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,222
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not quite maintenance related but: https://www.mbusa.com/content/dam/mb...pplication.pdf
MBWorld God!
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Posts: 32,222
Likes: 6,281
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,924
Likes: 6,776
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
the electric connectors are nicely sealed until the seals SHRINK then water enter by capilarity around the wires (forget about hosing off engine!!)
This is particularly important for bumper sensors/RADARS
-- Low hanging exposed connectors:
- A/C compressor: clutch + valve
- ISM Module connector.
This is particularly important for bumper sensors/RADARS
-- Low hanging exposed connectors:
- A/C compressor: clutch + valve
- ISM Module connector.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 6, 2025 at 04:47 PM.
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E250 GLE300d
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2016
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E250 GLE300d
not quite maintenance related but: https://www.mbusa.com/content/dam/mb...pplication.pdf
For now it sits in my glovebox.
/
Last edited by mfab; May 6, 2025 at 06:32 PM.
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Keep it at home : ) safe and sound, no point mounting on the grille and potentially losing it.
MBWorld God!
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I had no idea the front differential was even possible...good one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1s5-AMb7A4
/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1s5-AMb7A4
/
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Think about it, the weight of the engine, all the steering and weight of the rack, plus various other drivetrain component is carried by this little differential, it goes through lots of stress.
Here are some stories of it failing because of not changing fluid:
https://mbworld.org/forums/glc-class...placement.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/gls-class...ferential.html
Here are some stories of it failing because of not changing fluid:
https://mbworld.org/forums/glc-class...placement.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/gls-class...ferential.html
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
At that mileage these will need to be renewed if you want tight like new feel back on the car :
01. All engine mounts
02. Tranny mount
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
01. All engine mounts
02. Tranny mount
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,222
Likes: 6,281
At that mileage these will need to be renewed if you want tight like new feel back on the car :
01. All engine mounts
02. Tranny mount
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
01. All engine mounts
02. Tranny mount
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,373
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W212 FL
I appreciate you share all the details with us . Normally, dealers should have already replaced the coolant by now but it looks like you service your own car . Probably a proper spec coolant replacement might need it , I don't know
Happy Driving
Happy Driving
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 126
Likes: 28
E250 GLE300d
Coolant and water pump (!) are still original to the car. I installed a new serpentine belt last night (took less than 10 minutes) and everything in there is spinning nicely. So for now the water pump and coolant stay.
I need to pick my spots and prioritize. As you can see there's a long list!
The problem with the water pump is a failure leaves you on the side of the road.
/
Last edited by mfab; May 7, 2025 at 08:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 126
Likes: 28
E250 GLE300d
At that mileage these will need to be renewed if you want tight like new feel back on the car :
01. All engine mounts
02. Tranny mount
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
01. All engine mounts
02. Tranny mount
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
That's a long list! And a good one.
I'll go through it. Thank you.
Some of those items don't apply to the diesel obviously, but most do.
My car is still driving great - but, you are correct that it probably doesn't make sense to do all of that!
/
Last edited by mfab; May 7, 2025 at 09:35 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 436
Likes: 36
From: Barrington IL
2015 E 250, 1999 BMW M Roadster, 1939 International Harvester, 2023 GLC
Mfab, I also have a 14 E 250 original owner at 125,000 miles. I appreciate the info you and others provided. Have you done engine mounts? Like you I do pretty much all my own work. Happy to hear the belt was an easy change. Did you put on an OE belt? BTW mine is just 2wd
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 126
Likes: 28
E250 GLE300d
GREAT LIST. THANKS SOME COMMENTS BELOW IN CAPS:
At that mileage these will need to be renewed if you want tight like new feel back on the car :
01. All engine mounts
THIS IS A HARD JOB ON AN E250 4M. NO ROOM ON PASSENGER SIDE. Might be end of life for the car (for my ownership).
02. Tranny mount
MUCH EASIER DIY THAN THE ENGINE MOUNTS.
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
ABOUT TO DO THIS TO ADDRESS SOME VAGUENESS UNDER HEAVY BRAKING
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
4th SET OF TIRES. RUNNING MICHELIN 4S. OUTSTANDING TIRE! I DITCHED THE RUN FLATS.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
ROTORS ARE NEW. Calipers are original and they're fine.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
01. All engine mounts
THIS IS A HARD JOB ON AN E250 4M. NO ROOM ON PASSENGER SIDE. Might be end of life for the car (for my ownership).
02. Tranny mount
MUCH EASIER DIY THAN THE ENGINE MOUNTS.
03. All for dampers/shock absorber and the top mount plate/bushings and the bump stop foam/rubber.
04. Front suspension control arms and the L shape ball joint if it does use it.
ABOUT TO DO THIS TO ADDRESS SOME VAGUENESS UNDER HEAVY BRAKING
05. Tie rod end the short one and the long one, this is the steering system.
06. 2 of bushings at the rear wheel carrier / knuckle
07. Rear spring arm bushing at the rear subframe
08. The propeller shaft ( main drive shaft ) middle bearing and boot.
09. 4 of rear subframe mounts , if it already sunk too much and differential bushings at rear (2) while at it and differential mount at front (1).
10. Rear suspension arms, 4 of them ( spring arm no need ), you need to inspect . 4 wheel alignment as in rear camber reading can help to figure it out.
11. Wheel alignment can show the camber and caster value of front 2 suspension arms geometry.
12. The rear tire wear pattern so far ( perhaps 3 - 4 sets of tires consumed already ? ) will be a good database.
4th SET OF TIRES. RUNNING MICHELIN 4S. OUTSTANDING TIRE! I DITCHED THE RUN FLATS.
13. 4matic shaft out of the rear of the G7 tranny, there is a yoke there which will wear out. Inspect.
14. Inspect rear & front spring condition, if you have reference ride height when new, you can use it as reference for today's condition, how much sagging is occuring.
15. Measure thickness of front and rear rotor. Their useful life is only like 2mm, that is it. Actually brake calipers are serviceable when the repair kit is available, no need new one.
ROTORS ARE NEW. Calipers are original and they're fine.
16. All of your cooling and oiling system hoses or plastics/rubber hose or pipe, inspect them well and best to replace them all.
17. Test and calibrate all of your fuel injectors.
18. Inspect vacuum pump, make sure it still can produce negative pressure and how fast it can achieve the maximum negative pressure.
19. All plastic and rubber fuel hoses from tank to engine, replace them all. I wonder if diesel version W212, is the fuel tank output to engine using the blue plastic hose ? Gasoline one uses that blue plastic hose.
Now you wonder, is it worth all above for 50,000 miles and 5 years more of use ?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 126
Likes: 28
E250 GLE300d
Mfab, I also have a 14 E 250 original owner at 125,000 miles. I appreciate the info you and others provided. Have you done engine mounts? Like you I do pretty much all my own work. Happy to hear the belt was an easy change. Did you put on an OE belt? BTW mine is just 2wd
I ended up installing a Continental belt. I've used them on multiple cars and they are good quality. The belt change is simple (15 minutes) and inexpensive ($25). When you're in there inspect/spin the tensioner, pulleys, water pump and alternator. A belt change is a good way to do a health check on those systems. Put the old belt in your trunk in case of emergency.
I'm going to spend some money now to refresh the suspension: front control arms (both), rear tie rod link (the support rod), and probably front struts.
From there I'm going to see how it goes. I'm not an expert, just trying to figure it out as I go!
Good luck.
/
Last edited by mfab; May 8, 2025 at 11:31 AM.
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Posts: 32,222
Likes: 6,281
I haven't done the engine mounts. It looks like a difficult DIY on Bluetech 4M. I think it's easier for 2wd. Transmission mount looks much easier. I think they're both inevitable.
I ended up installing a Continental belt. I've used them on multiple cars and they are good quality. The belt change is simple (15 minutes) and inexpensive ($25). When you're in there inspect/spin the tensioner, pulleys, water pump and alternator. A belt change is a good way to do a health check on those systems. Put the old belt in your trunk in case of emergency.
I'm going to spend some money now to refresh the suspension: front control arms (both), rear tie rod link (the support rod), and probably front struts.
From there I'm going to see how it goes. I'm not an expert, just trying to figure it out as I go!
Good luck.
/
I ended up installing a Continental belt. I've used them on multiple cars and they are good quality. The belt change is simple (15 minutes) and inexpensive ($25). When you're in there inspect/spin the tensioner, pulleys, water pump and alternator. A belt change is a good way to do a health check on those systems. Put the old belt in your trunk in case of emergency.
I'm going to spend some money now to refresh the suspension: front control arms (both), rear tie rod link (the support rod), and probably front struts.
From there I'm going to see how it goes. I'm not an expert, just trying to figure it out as I go!
Good luck.
/
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 436
Likes: 36
From: Barrington IL
2015 E 250, 1999 BMW M Roadster, 1939 International Harvester, 2023 GLC
Thanks for the input. I just took a peek at my set up. Drivers side is easy. Passenger side has exhaust in the way but since only 2WD that should be it. I have the passive mounts no electronics
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,222
Likes: 6,281
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 126
Likes: 28
E250 GLE300d
Update:
- Motor Mounts (I had the dealer do this). It's a hard job on the E250 4Matic. They split the subframe when they did it.
- Rear Subframe replaced under warranty. Rust. There is an extended factory warranty on the rear sub-frame for rust! Get yours inspected.
- Transmission mount (relatively easy job for me).
- Front differential, rear differential, center transfer case fluids all changed.
- I also replaced one of exhaust sensors and used my Foxwell 530 to force a DPF filter regeneration. No check engine lights.
Car drives great now. Very happy. I don't know the exact mileage off-hand, but it's in the neighborhood of 170K.
Up next is regular oil and transmission fluid change.
/
- Motor Mounts (I had the dealer do this). It's a hard job on the E250 4Matic. They split the subframe when they did it.
- Rear Subframe replaced under warranty. Rust. There is an extended factory warranty on the rear sub-frame for rust! Get yours inspected.
- Transmission mount (relatively easy job for me).
- Front differential, rear differential, center transfer case fluids all changed.
- I also replaced one of exhaust sensors and used my Foxwell 530 to force a DPF filter regeneration. No check engine lights.
Car drives great now. Very happy. I don't know the exact mileage off-hand, but it's in the neighborhood of 170K.
Up next is regular oil and transmission fluid change.
/
Last edited by mfab; Sep 8, 2025 at 06:37 PM.
