sg07

Aside from the 4 jack points beside the tires, are there any other safe jack points on the GLK? Some picture showing locations of these would help.

On my other car, I have central jack points at the front and rear portions of the car, where I can jack the entire front or back up and install jack stands at the jack points beside the tires.

Alternatively, please educate me on how to jack up the GLK and install jack stands.

Venoms

Should be the same on the dif and the cross member in yhr front end

MBRedux

Not recommended. Do so at your own risk! https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...t-xmember.html

ruber0id

The picture of the engine mount on the Page 51 of the "Introduction of the New GLK-Class (USA), Introduction into Service Manual for Model Series 204" the document cyberglk350 refers to here.
I'm not sure if the link dead or alive, but if you need the document, let me know - I have it.

So, as you can see, this is how MB enables you to lift GLK in the middle with your floor jack (please, notice "2 Vehicle jack support point only for workshop vehicle jacks") and place jackstands under what GLK Owner's manual refers at "the jack take-up brackets"

MBRedux

In our shop, #2 is referenced as, now read this carefully, A "SUPPORT" POINT, not a "LIFT" point. There is a huge difference. When we lift cars like this using our 2 post 4 point hydraulic system....



we commonly "support" the vehicle and or the engine cradle using this 5th point (#2). It's just a hollow space frame, not meant to take the full load of the car, engine and tranny all by itself. It will work a few times, but I wouldn't trust it.

ruber0id

That's a pretty serious load of horseшit! Just like your "five point hydraulic lift"

But in your shop - as you said - "...whatever gets you up and dancing!"

MBRedux

It's only "serious" if and when you wish it to be. (The fifth point is and has been explained.)

ruber0id

Amen to that!!

MBRedux

Please show me where it says that the support point (#2) will bare the full load of the GLK's front end entirely as a single "lifting" point? (Not a support point.) Also keep in mind that just because some may attempt, and even succeed in lifting the car in this fashion, at a single point, thus allowing jack-stands to be placed around the car, (God knows I've done that especially with subframe cars and trucks) doesn't necessarily mean it's safe for both the user and/or the car, especially in a flexing unibody frame. I still catch my son doing numbskull stuff like this every once in awhile, but not my staff. I guess that's what separates men from boys.

ruber0id

At least you did not ask to present calculations of structural rigidity of a hollow space frame and reasons why it was meant not to take the full load of the car, engine and tranny all by itself. Abundance of copy-pastable material on the Internet and recognizing you as an accomplished artist of the craft, I wouldn't ask for same either.


My-my! What Would John Wayne Do?

See if this can help.
You probably saw this "The Star" (official MBCA magazine) article, since it's hosted here on MBWorld.org. ...or maybe not - some know it all already.

rmfnla

I like that MBRedux's shop is careful about the way they handle their customers' cars.

I was in a shop once and watched some hack try to jack up an Alfa Spyder by putting the jack under the aluminum oil sump.

Come to think of it, he jacked up that car pretty good...

MBRedux

Just answer the question, smart guy!

ruber0id

there

MBRedux

Now "that's a pretty serious load of horseшit!" When I said show me, I didn't mean some "kid's wanna-be a professional mechanic in my home garage article". Show me the beef in the factory shop manual that says the single point cross beam support can be used, and is approved, to LIFT the ENTIRE FRONT END on the GLK chassis all by itself?

ruber0id

you won

MBRedux

You didn't look very hard, but if you had, who knows, you may have won!

dgiturbo

sg07, here is how I would do it.

Place a floor jack under the front rubber jack pad near the tires.
Lift that side as high as the floor jack will go, or as you need.
Place a good quality jack stand under some solid part of the suspension, typically the lower control arm where it bolts to the frame. (The rearmost one looks good)
Lower the jack slowly and make sure the jack ramp sits squarely on the floor and against the control arm. They tends to shift as the vehicle weight is absorbed.
Repeat for rear wheel, but there is so much plastic covering under the rear, I would set the stand under the spring or the inboard control arm where it bolts also. Put a heavy rubber covering or piece of 2X4 on the top of the stand to protect that plastic if you use it below the spring.
Lower slowly and watch / adjust for squareness.
That way you have 2 wheels on ground and 2 on ramps and can replace or rotate tires 2 at a time.
Can't think of a repair reason where you would want all four tires in the air for a GLK that has a warranty, but repeat above to lift all four. Just monitor the ramps, because if you jack up aggressively, bad things can happen.

BTW, that center jack point looks solid, but I wouldn't use it. Have seen in the past where "structural" points bend with uni bodies, (Ford Taurus of the 1990's first come to mind) and there is no way with that experience in my mind I would use that point with my $50K GLK. High strength steel frame or not.

MBRedux

Plus if that one center rubber support were to slip, shift, shear or simply fail, even worse things could happen.