Preparing to take this on in my garage. i have read every 722.9 DIY change thread, viewed every youtube, until my eyes bleed over the last two weeks. This isnt my first transmission fluid change, but it is for me on GLK. I just want to confirm a few things...

my VIN (WDCGG8HB6CF908575) is coming up as 722.960. My truck is 5 years old and 30k miles so its due.

wanted to confirm the following since im a noob...
- my transmission is not a Plus
- my oil pan is already the larger one
- i will use Blue fluid per (the dealer)
- will need roughly 9.5 qts (including TQ)

Update completed the service, details in this thread.
https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...vice-time.html

 

mine only too 6 quarts even though i let the torque converter drain for 30 min, i filled it up and got the trans up to temp and all i put in was 6 quarts and it was full. I used Shell 134 and my transmission is smooth and function normal.

 

Thank you tony
your car may have smaller oil pan, there was a change over I think.
I'm going to try and use icarsoft 980 to read transmission temp for the procedure.

Hopefully the rest of what I posted above is correct

 

i was able to get 7 qt back into the tranny, also had all the bolts and filter replaced.
Your suppose to get the tranny into 80 degrees F then check the fluid level.

 

Az is your glk 4matic, do you have 7G transmission? i assumed my truck was 7G doing all this reading but i learned in the W204 subsection that the presence of code A89 on the build sheet means i have to use 236.15 (blue) fluid (7G+). can anyone clarify this?

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...ml#post9337985

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post7151032

 

No 4matic and 7G not the plus

 

How did the fluid change go? What instructions or video did you guys follow? I have a GLK250, and I suspect there will be no way for me to turn the crank to get to the drain plug of the torque convertor with a high compression diesel. And how did you determine what fluid to use? I used ID Parts, and I assume they know which one to ship to me.

Where did you get the drain adapter? And what did you use to pump the fluid? How much fluid did you pump in initially?

Thanks in advance,

Gordon

 

yours is a 13 and a diesel so there may be considerable differences from the gas ones?

adapter i got from amazon, i think mightyvac makes an adapter too. We used Motive 1745 Power Fill to pump the fluid in while the car was up on the lift. Included the torque converter, so we purchased 10 liters total. The dealer (and ECS) both confirmed i need blue fluid on my '12. To monitor transmission temps I used iCarSoft 980 which worked well.

I did not do our GLK yet, but we did a 2012 C-Class sedan. Will prob do the GLK in the next few weeks.

 

I did the fluid change about three months ago on a 2011 GLK350 4matic
I bought a kit from Blaufernugen (Wisconsin) since I knew them as knowledgable since I had bought lots of Audi parts from them over fifteen years. It was about $140 and came with gasket, filter, green level adapter, and 9 quarts of the blue fluid. It seems the crossover to blue fluid was around December 2010, and my build was later. It also came with a new torque converter drain plug
I went under the car a few days before I was going to do the fluid change, and discovered the low transmission pan was rusting around the drain/fill port (Michigan car...).....so i also invested in a new drain pan, (FCP Auto,around $80) in just before the weekend.

I needed to have a friend help me, since he stayed above the engine and slowly turned the crankshaft while I watched from below to stop him as the torque converter drain plug came into view in the inspection port

For filling I pressed a weed sprayer into service...cleaned it and added a slightly thicker diameter plastic pipe (5/32" ID) into the output port and let it go to the bottom of the container so the fluid would be forced up as I pumped air into the sprayer main body with the pump handle. I filled four quarts first, (the sprayer only held a gallon at a time) then added four quarts more and pumped it in and moved on to the "level checking" phase.

The instructions I had seen on the internet were to warm the transmission to 140F and then allow excess fluid to flow out the drain port while the engine continued to run (idle) in PARK. I also kept moving the gear selector through all gear positions while it was warming. In fact it was hard to bring up the temperature while idling....I had to rev up the car for a while to speed up the warming process. I used an infrared thermometer to read the temperature on the drain pan. Almost half a quart drained out....so i am guessing that there was about a quart in the transmission cooler (the one in the radiator) which has not been drained out. So if you don't plan to blow out the transmission oil cooler lines with compressed air....the total fluid needed will be less than 8 quarts.

The check engine light came on when I first started the car...probably due to the torque converter and control assembly being empty and having no control solenoid pressure....but it went off on its own a short while later.

Took it for a test drive after all was completed....it ran smoothly as before.....no noticeable change, it shifted cleanly through all gears (well my strong imagination thought it was smoother....but that was because I knew it had fresh clean oil...)

Before putting back all the under-body pans, I drove it for 20 miles around doing errands....and made sure there were no leaks from the drain pan where it meets the main transmission body.....finding none, I put back the pans.

I hope this helps.

 

Guys, I need some quick help. I'm dead in the water. I started the tranny fluid/filter change. I removed the bolts to the tranny pan (using an 11/32" hex socket (I saw on a video that 11/32 would work if you didn't have an E10). The tranny pan bolts care out with no problem, but two of the bolts are partially obstructed by a mounting bracket, so it is impossible to be put an wrench perpendicular (slight angle). But the bigger problem is that when I tried to torque the new bolts (the two that were partially obstructed), since I was not perpendicular and using a 11/32" socket, the bolt heads started to strip.

I am going to have to pull them out. Can I use two of the bolts used last time? Otherwise I'll probably have to leave the car on stands and wait till next week.

Can someone please let me know on these used bolts (can I used previous ones)? And what tool did you use to get to those two bolts to be able to torque them?

One other question. In order to drain the torque converter, you have to located the drain plug on the bottom of the torque converter inside the tranny housing. The only way to do that is put a large socket on the crank and turn it by hand. Is that possible, and if so, how in the world do I get access to the crank shaft pully/bolt? I can't find any way to get to it; I can't even see it whether looking from above or below.

Thanks in advance,

Gordon

Thanks,

Gordon

 

Gordon,

I remember there being a bracket in the way making it hard to get to a couple of bolts, I had removed it to get clean access to those transmission pan bolts....it's not difficult to remove....but take a picture of how it goes back....because I had to figure that out later and wished I had taken a picture.

The reason not to reuse the transmission pan bolts is that these are stretch bolts...and when they stretch they distort slightly and this keeps them from coming loose. However at the very low torque needed...i doubt there is too much distortion...so to ensure the reused bolts do not come loose, put a few drops of
thread-locker-"Blue" on those bolts.

To get the torque converter in the right place, I had a friend turn the crankshaft from on top of the engine....a long armed half-inch rachet with a four inch extension between the socket and wrench was sufficient to gain access.

The torque converter hex drain plug was really tiny, and I was scared I would strip it due to how much torque i needed to open it....but it did open...so please make sure you have to correct socket here,

Alan

 

Thanks Alan. That bracket didn't look like it was supporting something so not easily removable. But I didn't look closely at it so will do so again. Also, just to confirm, is the torque for the pan bolts 4nm/35.4 inch/pounds / 40.78 kgf/cm? My kfg/com torque wrench doesn't seem to be that accurate, so if I use my ft/#, it is only 3ft/#.

 

3 ft-lbs will work, but you need to also rotate it by 180° to create the final tension on the assembly. Pick up an E-torx socket, it is cheaper than extracting aluminium bolts from the magnesium transmission housing.

 

Just got back from Harbor Freight with the torx set. Fingers crossed I'll torque the bolts right. (3ft/# plut 180 degrees).

 

Gordon how did you end up accessing the crankshaft bolt? My 2015 GLK 250 has a shield in front of the the belt of the pulleys.

Thanks in advance!

 

I gave up when I did it. I could not find a way to get to the crankshaft to try to turn the diesel so just replaced the pan and that fluid. A few months ago I was going to go to a highly recommended independent to have them do it since I wanted the torque converter drained. The mechanic said that there is no torque converter plug on the 2013. I disagreed, copied part of the manual, and took it to him......where we then noticed that it said it is NOT on the 2013 tranny. So I can only replace the pan fluid, which is disappointing. That said, at least I don't have to try to figure out how to turn the crank.