Infared Thermometer Suggestions
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From: Miami, FL
2003 CL 600
Anything will work, I've compared several to the SDS internal temp reading and all were very close, the margin of error from using the external temp vs. internal is far greater than the difference from any one specific IR gun to another.
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Well I didn't expect allot of feedback, this is honestly the most PITA transmission oil change procedures I have ever completed in working over 25 years on cars... Not that it is hard but more of a PITA....so I didn't expect the majority of people on this forum to have done it.. nor to have an opinon on the IR thermometer.
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 16, 2017 at 05:55 PM.
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From: Jersey Shore
2012 GLK
where are you located? if you are in NJ you are welcome to use my shop and lift, i would like to run through this myself as i plan on doing it soon as well.
i would use icarsoft i980, since it will read real time fluid temp from the transmission sensor itself. they are only $100+-
you'll also need an angle gauge for final torque. I have the IR thermometer you linked above, it's good, has worked for the year ive owned it, but i have never cross checked its accuracy.
I agree the procedure is a completely asinine design.
i would use icarsoft i980, since it will read real time fluid temp from the transmission sensor itself. they are only $100+-
you'll also need an angle gauge for final torque. I have the IR thermometer you linked above, it's good, has worked for the year ive owned it, but i have never cross checked its accuracy.
I agree the procedure is a completely asinine design.
Last edited by B737; May 16, 2017 at 06:45 PM.
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From: Miami, FL
2003 CL 600
The IR gun will report about 5c lower than the internal sensor temp, with the couple i've checked. So if you're targeting 45c, once you see about 40 it's good to go.
In reality, the drip rate is such a stupid variable, a couple degrees difference in temp is not going to change anything. A guy that stops it too late, even at a cooler temp, can still have it too low, or a guy with it too hot but stops it too early will have it a little higher than it should be.
Trans will still work either way though. Regular fluid changes are more important than having the level 1mm higher or lower.
In reality, the drip rate is such a stupid variable, a couple degrees difference in temp is not going to change anything. A guy that stops it too late, even at a cooler temp, can still have it too low, or a guy with it too hot but stops it too early will have it a little higher than it should be.
Trans will still work either way though. Regular fluid changes are more important than having the level 1mm higher or lower.
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where are you located? if you are in NJ you are welcome to use my shop and lift, i would like to run through this myself as i plan on doing it soon as well.
i would use icarsoft i980, since it will read real time fluid temp from the transmission sensor itself. they are only $100+-
you'll also need an angle gauge for final torque. I have the IR thermometer you linked above, it's good, has worked for the year ive owned it, but i have never cross checked its accuracy.
I agree the procedure is a completely asinine design.
i would use icarsoft i980, since it will read real time fluid temp from the transmission sensor itself. they are only $100+-
you'll also need an angle gauge for final torque. I have the IR thermometer you linked above, it's good, has worked for the year ive owned it, but i have never cross checked its accuracy.
I agree the procedure is a completely asinine design.
Hmmm I was going to simply use a torque wrench where would you need an angle guage?
Plus I know the pan bolt is 22NM but anyone know the Torque converter bolt?
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 16, 2017 at 08:51 PM.
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The IR gun will report about 5c lower than the internal sensor temp, with the couple i've checked. So if you're targeting 45c, once you see about 40 it's good to go.
In reality, the drip rate is such a stupid variable, a couple degrees difference in temp is not going to change anything. A guy that stops it too late, even at a cooler temp, can still have it too low, or a guy with it too hot but stops it too early will have it a little higher than it should be.
Trans will still work either way though. Regular fluid changes are more important than having the level 1mm higher or lower.
In reality, the drip rate is such a stupid variable, a couple degrees difference in temp is not going to change anything. A guy that stops it too late, even at a cooler temp, can still have it too low, or a guy with it too hot but stops it too early will have it a little higher than it should be.
Trans will still work either way though. Regular fluid changes are more important than having the level 1mm higher or lower.
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 16, 2017 at 08:35 PM.
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C250
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2012 GLK
the pan bolts, im sure youve seen this link already it was pretty informative
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w221...7g-tronic.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w221...7g-tronic.html
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the pan bolts, im sure youve seen this link already it was pretty informative
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w221...7g-tronic.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w221...7g-tronic.html
I have seen about 3 DIY and 3 videos....never saw this one! THANKS
A couple of people state that the torque on the pan bolts should be tightened down progressively in a pattern like the pic below up to 5nm first then up to 10 to 12NM....one guy said the torque didnt matter as much as the the clips being in position correctly around the pan...
I'm going with this since most most DIY dont mention torque angle gauge...Allot of parts to do this right getting expensive..
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 16, 2017 at 10:56 PM.
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Too reflect further on this ...I own 370z Nismo its a manual so I understand that this is an Auto and are more trouble but it is two bolts just like a differential change. Let drain put back bolt...Pump in fluid tell it starts to come out of top hole ...put bolt back on ....this is crazy in comparison 
Regardless of mileage on your Merc, this is supposed to be done every 4 years....
probably not as hard as it seems after you do it the first time, but a couple $$ hundred for all the fluid and parts every 4 years is
Regardless of mileage on your Merc, this is supposed to be done every 4 years....
probably not as hard as it seems after you do it the first time, but a couple $$ hundred for all the fluid and parts every 4 years is
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 16, 2017 at 11:10 PM.
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2012 GLK
it is absolutely ridiculous, esp the subjective 'splattering out' part. I have routinely done gear fluids on toyotas, fords, hondas, corvettes, porsches, most had drain and fill plugs, how hard is that... or you just dropped the pan, changed filter, and filled it. A Passat, which was the bane of my existence, tranny fluid procedure was similar to ours.
i think your plan to simply torque in the correct pattern will be just fine.
did you pick a fluid brand yet?
i think your plan to simply torque in the correct pattern will be just fine.
did you pick a fluid brand yet?
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it is absolutely ridiculous, esp the subjective 'splattering out' part. I have routinely done gear fluids on toyotas, fords, hondas, corvettes, porsches, most had drain and fill plugs, how hard is that... or you just dropped the pan, changed filter, and filled it. A Passat, which was the bane of my existence, tranny fluid procedure was similar to ours.
i think your plan to simply torque in the correct pattern will be just fine.
did you pick a fluid brand yet?
i think your plan to simply torque in the correct pattern will be just fine.
did you pick a fluid brand yet?
I went with the kit from this company everything you need came with it! They tried to scam me the torque converter drain bolt but I called them and they sent it straight out no questions:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-.../2222772000kt/
Confirmed the A89 transmission in mine with a Vin Check so I need the Blue fluid 236.15 and in this case I just went with the OEM fluid ...costs more but heck this whole process is already costing me.
I also purchased the Assenmacher Driveline filler with the MB 722.9 adapter. Got it for a killer price of 119.00 here (I had a 5.00 ebay coupon) ...http://www.ebay.com/itm/311706124343...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 17, 2017 at 10:02 AM.
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Hmmm, in reading over this thread http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w221...7g-tronic.html and doing more research.
The original poster states the following: "YOU MUST BE EXACTLY ON TARGET TEMP TO DO THIS JOB!!!"
However, later in the thread another poster states the following: "Being a degree qualified Engineer capable of independent thought and trained in "degrees of accuracy" I know that plus or minus about 5C or even 10C either side of that 45C specified will not matter a rats **** to the setting of the level considering the subjective measure."
The second poster actually did some videos also ...and since he is an engineer I think he is probably correct.
Also I find it hard to believe that the pan bolts are stretch bolts (which he claims) nor that they would actually stretch..at approximately 10NM that is only 7.4 Foot Lbs.
The original poster states the following: "YOU MUST BE EXACTLY ON TARGET TEMP TO DO THIS JOB!!!"
However, later in the thread another poster states the following: "Being a degree qualified Engineer capable of independent thought and trained in "degrees of accuracy" I know that plus or minus about 5C or even 10C either side of that 45C specified will not matter a rats **** to the setting of the level considering the subjective measure."
The second poster actually did some videos also ...and since he is an engineer I think he is probably correct.
Also I find it hard to believe that the pan bolts are stretch bolts (which he claims) nor that they would actually stretch..at approximately 10NM that is only 7.4 Foot Lbs.
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 17, 2017 at 08:45 AM.
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2012 GLK
i agree, that dude was pretty over the top. there is likely a happy middle ground between his work and a driveway job.
given the absurd 'dribbling out' spec i cant see how a few degrees on either side would amount to beans. he was the only one i found who used torque to yield. He was following the WIS to the letter so i expect to find it in there myself when i pull it up. if you dont have an angle gauge i wouldnt go out of your way. most important to tighten them in the correct order (you depicted) and close to the given spec, if the pan doesnt leak you'll know its right
but be careful, because on a 7 pound fastener it may only take +3 pounds over to snap it.
that's a nice filler you purchased, you'll find endless uses for the thing in the future. Motive makes one as well (the one i use), it has a valve on it for shop air.
Motive Products 1Gallon Power Fill Pro transfer Pump (1735)
given the absurd 'dribbling out' spec i cant see how a few degrees on either side would amount to beans. he was the only one i found who used torque to yield. He was following the WIS to the letter so i expect to find it in there myself when i pull it up. if you dont have an angle gauge i wouldnt go out of your way. most important to tighten them in the correct order (you depicted) and close to the given spec, if the pan doesnt leak you'll know its right
but be careful, because on a 7 pound fastener it may only take +3 pounds over to snap it.
that's a nice filler you purchased, you'll find endless uses for the thing in the future. Motive makes one as well (the one i use), it has a valve on it for shop air.
Motive Products 1Gallon Power Fill Pro transfer Pump (1735)
Last edited by B737; May 17, 2017 at 09:50 AM.
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Yea I have seen some peoples "dribble" as much greater than others....I suppose it doesn't matter but I will have to watch some videos to see what most "dribbles" are like before they close it up....
By the way taking it in to have it done is not an option, I called my stealership and they did not drain the torque converter I asked them to check the WIS that they are supposed to ....they never called me back. I even called my assigned service tech and left a message, never called me back. So I am sure that if you take it in, even if they said they did it, they will not. Plus this is a job for someone who cares about their car, they probably would do a horrible job cleaning the pan, bolting it, torque etc...probably even put the wrong fluid!
By the way taking it in to have it done is not an option, I called my stealership and they did not drain the torque converter I asked them to check the WIS that they are supposed to ....they never called me back. I even called my assigned service tech and left a message, never called me back. So I am sure that if you take it in, even if they said they did it, they will not. Plus this is a job for someone who cares about their car, they probably would do a horrible job cleaning the pan, bolting it, torque etc...probably even put the wrong fluid!
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I read that if you do a vin search try this: https://www.vindecoderz.com/ or this
http://carinfo.kiev.ua/cars/vin/mercedes/vin_check
Then search and see if you find the code below, if you have this code then you use the 236.15 fluid (blue fluid) :
A89 - REDUCED-FRICTION
http://carinfo.kiev.ua/cars/vin/mercedes/vin_check
Then search and see if you find the code below, if you have this code then you use the 236.15 fluid (blue fluid) :
A89 - REDUCED-FRICTION
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Thats what I was told/read ....!
When I called and talked to ECS. They told me the same thing...as their post below.
If you search other parts suppliers they say the same thing too.
3rd 4th and 5th post:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...2011-c300.html
When I called and talked to ECS. They told me the same thing...as their post below.
If you search other parts suppliers they say the same thing too.
3rd 4th and 5th post:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w204...2011-c300.html
Last edited by St.Christopher; May 17, 2017 at 02:28 PM.
