M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

Dead instrument panel in 2002 ML320

Old Mar 5, 2018 | 04:39 PM
  #1  
Bill Lewis's Avatar
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Dead instrument panel in 2002 ML320

Also no instrument panel lights, no indicator or warning lights, and no HVAC controls. Fuses? BTW, the truck starts and runs fine.

Last edited by Bill Lewis; Mar 5, 2018 at 04:52 PM. Reason: Add information
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 12:38 AM
  #2  
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With the key on, check fuse #5 in the right side kick panel fuse box with a DVOM or test light.
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 10:14 AM
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Thanks, Neighbor (we're in the Bronx, specifically Riverdale). Should I also check fuse #1?
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Lewis
Thanks, Neighbor (we're in the Bronx, specifically Riverdale). Should I also check fuse #1?


Please UPDATE YOUR PROFILE IN user CP to include the year and where you live.
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Lewis
Thanks, Neighbor (we're in the Bronx, specifically Riverdale). Should I also check fuse #1?
You haven't said anything about checking fuse #5 which controls both the I.C. and the A/C Controls. Check all the fuses you want.
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 03:20 PM
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I replaced fuse #5. That fixed all the problems, I think. I turned the truck off and restarted it, and everything was dead again. Hmm...

So, what's Plan B -- the next step? Ant thoughts?

I updated my info, BTW.
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 04:19 PM
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Purchase at least four 15 amp fuses. Key out of ign., remove and replace fuse #5.

Open hood and locate the Coolant Cir. Pump near the battery and remove the two wire connector. Start the truck and shut it off (maybe a few times) and see if the fuse blows.
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 05:13 PM
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I tried a second one of the five 15A fuses I bought and walked slo-mo through ignition and startup. It blew while I was admiring the full set of warning/indicator lights. I will do your suggested second step either shortly or tomorrow morning. We're visiting family at the moment and need to respect their schedule.

Thanks for the walk-through, and the good news is that I still have three good fuses. The parts house is nearby too.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 02:33 PM
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Maj. Dundee, I haven't been able to get the 2-wire lead off the coolant circulating pump. I got the wire off the rubber cord end, but I haven't been able to get the cord end off the pump. Is there a trick to that, or a step I'm missing?
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Lewis
Maj. Dundee, I haven't been able to get the 2-wire lead off the coolant circulating pump. I got the wire off the rubber cord end, but I haven't been able to get the cord end off the pump. Is there a trick to that, or a step I'm missing?
Take a close up photo of the connector and post it.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 05:51 PM
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Images



From below, side.


From above.
Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Take a close up photo of the connector and post it.
I took several. I don't know if any of them is worthwhile. Here are a couple.
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Old Mar 9, 2018 | 03:58 AM
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Your pump looks like it's been repaired. The pump has a thick rubber cushion around it and the cushion sits on a bracket.

Pull the motor with the rubber cushion off of the bracket and press the metal clip inwards and at the same time pull off the connector.
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Old Aug 12, 2025 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee



Your pump looks like it's been repaired. The pump has a thick rubber cushion around it and the cushion sits on a bracket.

Pull the motor with the rubber cushion off of the bracket and press the metal clip inwards and at the same time pull off the connector.


mine is doing this also now any ideas? What was the fix? Thank you in advance
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