High mileage W166s (80k+)?




When I searched MBWorld, I was surprised to find relatively few posts about high-mileage issues with W166s. The only consistent trouble seems to be with the Bluetecs. I'm hoping that, generally, the lack of posts equates to lack of common problems. Does anyone have any recommendation to stay away from a gasoline W166 with over 80k or 100k miles?
Also more specifically, has anyone had any bad experiences with maintaining the W166's Airmatic and Dynamic Curve? I've only come across one example with those two options. The dealer was transparent enough to send the inspection sheet with the issues it's currently got, including "front and rear level arms seized", "suspension sitting low in the front", cupped tires and "trans pan and rear main leaking". Even though it's sold at a heavy discount, I feel like this is a money pit just waiting to happen. Does anyone disagree?
Thanks in advance for all your thoughts.
- Rear Tailgate Latch Failed, Replaced
- Fuel Injectors Leaked - replaced ECU, Wiring Harness, and Fuel Sensor (damaged by leaked fuel)
- Clacking Noise on Startup, Check Valve Replaced
- Right Rear Airmatic Damper Leaked, Replaced
- Clunk from Front on Turn, Right Half Axle Replaced
- Multi-Contour Seat Reservoir Exploded, Replaced
- Run Flat Tires Failed, Replaced w/ non-RFTs
- Battery Failed, Replaced
- Brake Pads / Rotors Front & Rear ($$)
- 3 windshields replaced (Arizona rocks)
Right now I still have a slight clunk on left turns which is likely coming from the other front half axle. Not sure if that's tied to 4matic or what.
If you pickup a RWD non-airmatic ML350 without ACS or Multi-Contour, there should be few problems if it's been properly maintained.
Find a highly optioned one and there may be a few issues to address. The most onerous repair was the leaking injectors which I think is unique to the M278 motor in a specific time span.
Given the choice, I'd make the same decision again. Key part being a warranty. ACS and airmatic give a fantastic highway ride. On/Off Road Package is surprisingly capable. Find what level of risk you're comfortable with and make a decision.
Full service history and CarFax. Non Airmatic and non Dynamic Curve. Bought it "as is." No problems worth mentioning in the history. Runs great and everything works.
Had to put a new set of tires on it, repair some minor wheel rash on a couple of wheels and replace the windshield because it was severely pitted by road debris. Also added a full set of WeatherTech mats, MB valve stem caps, and new license plate frames and screw caps. Front passenger side mudflap was torn. Cut the dangling part off and cut off the driver's side front mudflap to match. The car looked good before but looks even better now.
Service was done every 10k miles. Brakes and rotors changed just 2 months ago and brake fluid flushed a year ago. Just need to get the 100k mile service done next week and that'll be it.
Very happy with the purchase.
Last edited by sgt1372; Apr 23, 2017 at 03:34 AM.




Full service history and CarFax. Non Airmatic and non Dynamic Curve. Bought it "as is." No problems worth mentioning in the history. Runs great and everything works.
Had to put a new set of tires on it, repair some minor wheel rash on a couple of wheels and replace the windshield because it was severely pitted by road debris. Also added a full set of WeatherTech mats, MB valve stem caps, and new license plate frames and screw caps. Front passenger side mudflap was torn. Cut the dangling part off and cut off the driver's side front mudflap to match. The car kooked good before but looks even better now.
Service was done every 10k miles. Brakes and rotors changed just 2 months ago and brake fluid flushed a year ago. Just need to get the 100k mile service done next week and that'll be it.
Very happy with the purchase.
I ended up staying away from Airmatic, btw. From this forum, I was under the impression that it was a common option, but my service advisor told me they never see any MLs with Airmatic (and there's a ton of MLs around here). He wasn't sure if it was a cost-effective option without a warranty.
Thanks for your feedback, guys!
A 200k+ mile ML350 is listed for sale on Cargurus. Has anyone else achieved 200k?
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I would suggest buying 2013+ instead of 2012 due to the NTG version. The 2012 uses NTG4.0 and 2013+ uses NTG4.5 or 4.7 which makes a pretty huge difference. I have a 2012 NTG4.0 and a 2015 GL350 NTG4.5/4.7 and I used to have a 2013 C300 with NTG4.5. Although functions are the same, the 4.5/4.7 respond much faster and have a better color tone (I feel). When I engage reverse, the 4.0 takes 1-2 seconds to switch while 4.5/4.7 switches immediately.
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Have ove 67,000 on 2015 ML 350 still have original brakes and battery. So far so good.
It sounds like with the dampers and brakes you may have let them go awhile? Is that correct? Best practice is to stay on top of replaceable items such as those and the vehicle will provide reasonably long service.
Did/do you have water damage to the moonroof?
Mine turbo air charge hose after intercooler splited. It cost around $300 from ebay. Good thing is it is easy to change.
I will schedule the 60k transmission oil change in a week or so. I will likely do the 60k engine oil change myself.
What mileages are people accumulating on their W166s?
However, I believe in changing all fluids to achieve high mileage, regardless whether or not the manufacturer specifies it. 46k miles is early. Too early? It's up to you. I have 62k miles on my 2017 W166 and plan to change all of the drivetrain fluids this year. Mainly because I like to do it, but also to help with high mileage achievement (hopefully). I have never had a differential or transfer case problem with any vehicle I have owned. I have run several vehicles well beyond 200k miles. In the big picture, the differentials have very low risk for problems below 200k miles. The transfer case seems to have less design margin and therefore preventive maintenance seems prudent for it.




Rear shocks and link bushings at 80,000 miles - warranty, brake PADS at 88,000 miles (rotors fine).
3rd gear accumulator at 1,500 miles - warranty.
I'm not sure where the "unreliability of diesels, comes from, other than @chassis continual badmouthing them.
My experienced with diesels is that many dealers don't order them for stock, and don't train the mechanics, or only one.
This has been my experience in all diesels I have owned from an '80 Isuzu P'uP (sweet little diesel) to Rabbit to Jetta to Toureg to Cayenne.
Since the technicians don't know them, you can get plenty of badmouthing, but very little substance. This used to be the case when fuel injection came along, then catalytic converters, then turbochargers.... you get the picture.
However, even though I haven't seen any real evidence of high diesel problems, there is always the increased probably that you dealer or shop may not be familiar with them, which could be problematic. Interview the dealer's technician.
Rear shocks and link bushings at 80,000 miles - warranty, brake PADS at 88,000 miles (rotors fine).
3rd gear accumulator at 1,500 miles - warranty.
I'm not sure where the "unreliability of diesels, comes from, other than @chassis continual badmouthing them.
My experienced with diesels is that many dealers don't order them for stock, and don't train the mechanics, or only one.
This has been my experience in all diesels I have owned from an '80 Isuzu P'uP (sweet little diesel) to Rabbit to Jetta to Toureg to Cayenne.
Since the technicians don't know them, you can get plenty of badmouthing, but very little substance. This used to be the case when fuel injection came along, then catalytic converters, then turbochargers.... you get the picture.
However, even though I haven't seen any real evidence of high diesel problems, there is always the increased probably that you dealer or shop may not be familiar with them, which could be problematic. Interview the dealer's technician.
Bluetec diesels are rubbish. It’s not me @mikapen it’s the product. I spent $9k out of my own pocket on my TDI Touareg, all diesel related. Turbo, EGR, DPF, nox sensors and more.
Bluetec is so bad that MB just settled a class action on the topic, and they no longer sell diesels in the US. Bad product, stay away.




Bluetec is so bad that MB just settled a class action on the topic, and they no longer sell diesels in the US. Bad product, stay away.
In fact the DEF, SCR and other modern diesel e-controls have been a boon to diesel longevity, and are far superior to the former EGR-heavy, engine-destroying "fixes."
With brand new exhaust parts and a new extended warranty, M-B diesels are quite attractive.
Unless you just don't like diesels - then stay away.








So, roughly double the power and longer life. I like it.





