Does anyone have a good writeup on how to change the spark plugs on a V8 engine? Does the valve cover need to be taken off or can the spark plugs be reached without having to take the valve cover off?

Well with a moniker of 'southernBMW2005' you're gonna have to help us out, this is a MB forum. I just changed the plugs on my C43, which has a V8, and you do not have to remove the valve covers, but I did remove the coil packs and windshield washer H20 bottle - dunno if that helps you though. We'll need specific car for us to help you out more....even if it's not an MB

Sorry, it's a 2003 SL500 (R230). Thanks for the info. Please let me know if your engine is the similar layout as mine.

No problem, happy to help...it's a 113 engine. So I would guess similar...I don't have time to write up fully now and my car is different from yours. But I'm going to say that you're gonna need both short and long 3/8" extensions, of course a 3/8" rachet, a 3/8" universal joint, Permatex anti-seize, and a 5/8" spark plug socket. I would shop for plugs HERE and purchase through this seller on ebay, allsparkplugs, they're almost half for the same exact plugs. Also, a good idea would be to buy the 3/8" extensions they have at Home Depot (Husky)- they sell a packet of three 3/8" extensions and they have a little button that must be depressed in order to seat the subsequent extension into it. I have found this feature indispensable for working in those tight spots, i.e. spark plugs nearest the firewall.

Frank , isn't he going to need the 18" angle pliers also ?

Thanks! I already have all the tools - all the craftsman tools that you can ever imagine - entire collection I also got the NGK-Iradium IX plugs pregapped at 0.04". I got the torque wrench and everything - recommend tightening at 15-22 LB/FT for that particular car.
I just need to know any special instructions such as tricks for getting the plugs out from the back area or disconnecting any special fuse before starting, etc.

Have you done any brake pads and/or rotors replacements? Just wondering how you dealt with the SBC or if you had any problems. I heard that the calipers can slam shut while you are working on them. Some have even suggested that you lock the car and place your keys very far and then start working on the brakes.

Yes, yes, yes!!! C43AMG is right...you'll need the angle pliers. Harbor Freight tools has them, their website has a store search feature too, sorry about that LINK

NOTE: As a precaution, All I did was unplug the ground from the battery, I did not want to get zapped by one of those coil packs, I'm sure it would not be pleasant.

Oops, I would have addressed with previous post, but missed it....

My car does not have SBC, however...I would say that it's always a good idea to disconnect battery when working on anything that has an electric current and would even wait ten minutes before I work on it.

If you lock the car, and then place the keys far away, and then start on the brakes, won't the alarm be armed based on the car being locked? If the alarm is armed, and you jack up the vehicle, won't the motion trigger the alarm?

I don't have SBC, but if I did, I'd simply pull the SBC fuse and keep the keys out of the ignition while doing the brakes.

I could have it all wrong though.

You have to hit the tow-away alarm and this will turn the alarm off. I guess pulling the fuse would also be insurance. SBC is triggered even if you touch the door handle since the car has keyless-go.

back to the plugs, a bent 17mm wrench or long hose-removal pliers can help wiggle the wires off the pugs, careful not to bind them and break the plugs.

[QUOTE=StapleGun]Yes, yes, yes!!! C43AMG is right...you'll need the angle pliers. Harbor Freight tools has them, their website has a store search feature too, sorry about that LINK

Thanks for the link. The 45 degree with the rounded tips look like they were made for the job....I ordered them.

Got them done today. It took about 1-1/2 hours. Piece of cake. I did not need any special took - standard set of tools from craftsman (rachet and socket. This was the easiest thing that I ever done on my SL. I went with the iradium plugs as I had bad experience with the Bosch Platinum +4. Car idles 1000% better and runs like I am sliding on butter. Got the iradium plugs for around $6.00 each. Took 16 of them, of course.
I got quotes from four different dealers ranging from $500 to $800 (what a rip off). Don't ever use Manuel Mercedes in Marietta, GA I got a different price every time I call them. Spoke to some *** name Ricky and he said since he owns the shop then he can charge what ever the hell he wants to charge. This kid was rude as hell. He said the plugs cost $22 each and I questioned him about the plugs. He explained that they were the regular bosch plugs. The best bosch plugs cost $6.99 each at Advance Auto Parts.

Thanks to all for inputs - hope the contrubitions help other members.

Any of you guys have any tips on changing the plugs in a CL600 V12?

Regards,
Ed

be very, very careful. The ignition module that you have to pry offt is about $2500 each side and if it binds on the way up... You will also need to replace the 24 red insulators also. there are special tools avail for removing the ign coil modules and the insulators as the remain on the plugs. if any of the red insulators are burned up. you will probably need to replace the ign coil module

Hey southernBMW...glad to hear your sparkplug change went without a hitch. Nothing like working on your own car and knowing you saved a bundle!

Hey 'sped' sorry...dunno anything about the V12...the plugs gotta be a bear though. I'm sure if you post within the appropriate forum, someone will help you...

Many D.Y.I.'ers and some dealers simply unplug the cable from the SBC controller. Do a search on the W211 Forum.