E500 Door locks ratcheting
03-21-2008, 06:59 PM
#1
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03 E500 and Corvette
E500 Door locks ratcheting
The door locks on our E500 2003 are ratcheting up and down. This happens when using the fey fob to lock the doors. It also happens when driving away from a start up when they auto lock. I have turned the vehicle door lock auto to the off selector so we can drive without them continuously ratcheting. But locking and exiting the car are another issue. They will ratchet up/down about 5 times and may or may not stop in the lock position. Any ideas? Thanks vettdvr
03-21-2008, 07:58 PM
#2
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Is it all the doors? The problem i had was with the driver's door. What you have to do is change the door lock actuator. Use the link below to help you.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ight=door+lock
Basically, you have to remove the inner door cover and then you have to drill out the two rivets of the lower metal arm of the window braceing (so you can take out the actuator from inside the door. I used small stainless steal screws with lock washers to reattach the brace, but you should use a pop rivet to replace the drilled out rivets. Installation is the reversal.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ight=door+lock
^^^ Use this link to see how to remove the lock/door handle so it can fall right down.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ight=door+lock
Basically, you have to remove the inner door cover and then you have to drill out the two rivets of the lower metal arm of the window braceing (so you can take out the actuator from inside the door. I used small stainless steal screws with lock washers to reattach the brace, but you should use a pop rivet to replace the drilled out rivets. Installation is the reversal.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ight=door+lock
^^^ Use this link to see how to remove the lock/door handle so it can fall right down.
03-21-2008, 08:08 PM
#3
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03 E500 and Corvette
It is the driver door and the driver side rear door,, but the rear door doesn't seem to be as violent as the front.
Good thread but that was the C class and ours is E. It is probably the same problem but the door panel removal will be different. Our warranty is still in effect. Another 200
mile drive to the dealer.
Thanks we will see what the Dealer has to say on this one. 3 months ago it was SBC total failure,, 2 months before that the ignition key failed.
Now my Corvette bought new with same miles has has the power seat module replaced and service. I can assure you it is driven much more sprited that the wife's MB
and the Corvette hasn't seen a dealer for mechanical/electrical issue in 4 years.
This is our first MB and we surely have put many miles at 200 total just going to the dealer.
Good thread but that was the C class and ours is E. It is probably the same problem but the door panel removal will be different. Our warranty is still in effect. Another 200
mile drive to the dealer. Thanks we will see what the Dealer has to say on this one. 3 months ago it was SBC total failure,, 2 months before that the ignition key failed.
Now my Corvette bought new with same miles has has the power seat module replaced and service. I can assure you it is driven much more sprited that the wife's MB
and the Corvette hasn't seen a dealer for mechanical/electrical issue in 4 years.This is our first MB and we surely have put many miles at 200 total just going to the dealer.
Last edited by vettdvr; 03-21-2008 at 08:17 PM.
03-21-2008, 08:27 PM
#4
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I can hear you on the mileage! I drove my benz back and forth for about 2 months to the dealership (40 miles each way) for problems they should have fixed before i took the car. (They even had extra 2 weeks before i actaully paid for the car because i waited for the title!). Anyways, i really love the way this car drives and looks, so it was worth it to me.
I know you are getting it fixed at the dealer, but just incase others read this thread, the difference between the C door setup and the E setup is the airbag. I didnt have to remove the airbag because it is in the inside door cover, not in the window braceing.
I know you are getting it fixed at the dealer, but just incase others read this thread, the difference between the C door setup and the E setup is the airbag. I didnt have to remove the airbag because it is in the inside door cover, not in the window braceing.
03-22-2008, 07:50 AM
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I can hear you on the mileage! I drove my benz back and forth for about 2 months to the dealership (40 miles each way) for problems they should have fixed before i took the car. (They even had extra 2 weeks before i actaully paid for the car because i waited for the title!). Anyways, i really love the way this car drives and looks, so it was worth it to me.
I know you are getting it fixed at the dealer, but just incase others read this thread, the difference between the C door setup and the E setup is the airbag. I didnt have to remove the airbag because it is in the inside door cover, not in the window braceing.
I know you are getting it fixed at the dealer, but just incase others read this thread, the difference between the C door setup and the E setup is the airbag. I didnt have to remove the airbag because it is in the inside door cover, not in the window braceing.
Good point,
, didn't remember the airbag was in the door. I still have a 100000 mile warranty and will take it in, but next time I will do it in my shop. Can the C procedures be used on the E and if so I assume both batteries have to be disconnected to remove the airbag? This is where a E procedure would be nice. I have the service manual but it leaves a little to be desired on details.
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03-22-2008, 06:07 PM
#9
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I didnt remove the battery cable...I hope it isn't an issue. I just disconnected the small blue plug with the rest of the plugs (radio, door locks, etc.). I didn't get an SRS light and its been about 2 months since. The C i would definately remove the battery.
03-25-2008, 03:40 PM
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BMW E30. I've turned to the dark side.
before you all go out and buy new door lock actuators, there is on possible fix - granted it seems to only work 10-20% of the time. the rubber boot where the lock arm protrudes up through can get bound and cause the ratchet issue- the DTB was for a 203 as I recall. similar issue with 211's. Its quick and easy and more importantly- free to check this. obviously if lubing the lock rod and re-locating the boot doesn't work, you will need a latch assy.
03-25-2008, 05:27 PM
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before you all go out and buy new door lock actuators, there is on possible fix - granted it seems to only work 10-20% of the time. the rubber boot where the lock arm protrudes up through can get bound and cause the ratchet issue- the DTB was for a 203 as I recall. similar issue with 211's. Its quick and easy and more importantly- free to check this. obviously if lubing the lock rod and re-locating the boot doesn't work, you will need a latch assy.
I had the repair made under warranty today. I would have really like to got my hands on the actuator to examine the method of failure. I have done this for Ford Trucks and found a repair/upgrade to those actuators for very little cost. Literally $.01 / repair is what the guys call it on the Ford sites.
Perhaps next time I will do it myself and tear into the actuator to see if there is a upgrade to prevent failure. Jim
