jburns3

My R231 SL63 dynamic seat pump is shot. Pulled it, put power to it and the motor is fried. Looking for a source for overhauled/rebuilt versions of the 0132006417 Bosch pump.
Thanks!
Jim

CaliBenzDriver

Jim, while i dont know where to source your pump... I can contribute that one of the bladder lines leaked and over worked pump non-stop.

So go ahead and use a portable inflator to test bladers to save your time from duplicate efforts.

I think your main culprit is the seat itself.

Feel free to plug failed air circuits to preserve pump.

protect you from troubles

WISE: you can buy a $5 timer from Internet to automatically stop pump after 5mn timeout - Same for 4Matic compressor.

jmattioni

What year is your car? In Xentry it states that the pump will not run more than 60 seconds to protect it. I just wonder if that's a newer feature to prevent burnout.

I just resolved an issue with my seats in a 2014 SL. As I was gently lifting the pump out of its foam cradle I could hear hissing noises at the connectors. It turned out that the seals in those connectors we're going bad. For now I treated them with silicone o-ring lubricant and it stopped the leaks. I have access to Xentry and used that to do a full leak test and it passed.

If you do a leak test with an external air source do not exceed 29 psi. The normal operating pressure is around 25 psi.

If it were me I'd crack that case open and see what's going on inside the pump. Might be a thermal fuse or something in there that can be replaced. I had priced a new pump from some online OEM sources and it was about $750 new. I agree, if you have to buy one get it rebuilt.


I forgot to mention the most important thing I have to offer. There's a control module in the pump connected to the can bus and it controls the pump motor and valves that are in there. So just applying power to the connector most likely won't run the pump. It has to be commanded to run via the can bus. You're only hope is to get a diagnostic tool that can do that. Foxwell has a decent low cost unit that can do some basic functions with the pump.

jburns3

Thanks for the reply.
My SL63 is a 2013. I also wonder when the timer function was added and if the 2013 had the timer function or not.

The motor is definitely shot. I pulled it from the case, pulled the mount from the motor, de-soldered the leads from the motor case and applied 12vdc to the leads. Nothing. The protective coating from the winding wires had melted from the windings and leaked out of the case onto the circuit board.

My OBDII reader showed 2 codes for the pump, High pressure overload and High temperature overload. Clearing the codes, then pulling the CB #60 behind the passenger seat would allow the controls to attempt to re-power the system. Massage motors function, but no action at the pump.

I haven't pulled the seat backs yet, but my next step is to apply air pressure to the tubes with a hand pressure/vacuum pump & gauge. I blew into the lines last night and while I can't remember which, the air I blew in one line returned out of another, which would make sense if one is pressure to the controllers and the other is vacuum return.

Good idea about lubing the o-rings, after 11 years, they no doubt need it.

jburns3

Update.
Bought a used pump on ebay. lubed the o-rings, and everything functions normally. Pulled the seat backs, inspected all the hoses, No leaks. Pump cycles on and off as required to maintain pressure in every mode. All the bladders inflate and deflate normally. So, I have no clue why the original pump failed with only 9600 miles on the car. But, talk about the perfect environment to overheat a motor... pack it in foam with no ventilation. I can understand not wanting the hear the pump, but at what cost?

CaliBenzDriver

Great! Now we have a good chance the built-in control module uses pressed-pins that provide a poor connection as soon as it is oxidized by high current surges.

If you're curious... disassemble your old pump to show us the soldered side of circuit board....

Fix is 5mn quick soldering. Amz sells cheap soldering kits...

jburns3

I still have the circuit board, I'll take a look.... been through that whole experience and fix with the ignition switch lockout in my wife's 07 SLK 55AMG (

CaliBenzDriver

The EIS "ignition switch" has that game built-in... so does SCM, ESP, ISM, R-SAM, DCU.…

> ... on CAN-C this is used to cause poor tranny shifts + "battery drain while driving".

> ... on CAN-B this is used to cause "battery drain while parked".

Easily fixed for reliable performance.
​​

jburns3

Dark spot on the board is melted winding residue that dripped out of the motor.

CaliBenzDriver

This circuit board looks ok and built reliably.


battle scared by the motor winding


all soldered pins... good!


all soldered pins... good!


these two are candidates for resoldering

Overall no obvious sign of active issue from the module itself.

The motor gets toasty hot when activated too long.

This is caused by air leak triggering compressor...

The control module appears is good enough shape to deliver power.
✌️

jmattioni

FYI - In Xentry the test page for the pump lists the max temp of the pump to be 260F! So, it definitely gets hot.