trunk release
1. Push the trunk open button on the e-key and hold it down
2. Take the "manual key" out of the e-key and put it in the trunk lock, and turn
3. Push up w/ your finger on the trunk-release button on the trunk, above the lisence plate
4. Pull out on the trunk release button on the drivers door panel, located at the bottom of the panel on my car
Failing that I suggest that you call your dealer
My problem started a few weeks ago with a partial, 2/3 lift of the trunk lid when I pushed the remote, which was annoying. Then the remote, and door switch quit working entirely.
The crazy thing is - when I push the red button on the trunk lid to close it - it has perfect closing action. How can this be a hydrolic cylinder problem?
I have reset fuses, held the door switch in for 20 seconds, any suggestions?
I had an auto-shop check for any blown fuses but didn't find any. He went through all 3 fuse panels (2 under the hood, 1 under rear seat).
In addition to the trunk release not working, I also have 2 errors on the instrument cluster for my 2 lights above the rear license plate. The mechanic just assumed it was the bulbs burnt out an replaced them and send me on my merry way. About 2 minutes later, the bulbs blew out again.
How do you "reset fuses" as you mentioned in your post above? Maybe I can try that next.
I have the same issue. #2 Mechanical Key is the only way to open the trunk that works for me. I also have a license plate light out message so I am thinking it is a burn out on a wire that has shorted the system. I do not know how to find that but will learn.
If you have a solution please let me know with pictures if possible.
Good day.
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If your licence plate lights also out then it is very likely that your trunk lid cable has a broken ground wire.
If you remove the trunk lid cover/blue lining just by pulling it out from corner to corner then you will see a bunch of plugs and wires for various functions. Check around the harness you will likely find a spare plug that does not plug to anywhere. One of the three wires connected to this plug is a brown only wire. For a temporary fix, you can connect a loose ground wire to this brown wire to supply ground signal to the whole harness as the brown only ground wire is connected to all functions. In fact for this case, you can connect the make-up ground wire to any "brown only" color wire on the harness. Make sure you let this ground wire to hang loose inside the trunk but NOT taping it to the cable as the cable will retract inside the box when the lid closes.
The permanent fix will be to replace the whole harness which is rather easy (1/2 hour). If you buy the harness outside the dealer make sure you know the year as for 2002+ the harness includes an extra terminal/plug for the trunk entrapment release switch. 2001 or older model cable will work fine for everything except without this plug. You will find used ones at eBay for less than $100. A new one from the dealer is about $400.
To replace the harness, which comes with an integrated rectangle plastic cable housing. Once you received the replacement harness, the removal and installation is self-explanatory by looking at the new harness's housing structure. It might be a little tricky to figure out how to remove the box the first time if you don't already have the replacement harness on hand for reference.
If there is only one function of the lid opening mechanism that does not work (such as soft close) and at least one license plate light works then it could be other wire inside the sliding cable or the vacumn tube. It is not practical to repair the wire inside the cable as the repair won't last very well due to the sliding in and out during lid open and closure.
Last edited by Frank I; Nov 5, 2012 at 06:14 PM.
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If your licence plate lights also out then it is very likely that your trunk lid cable has a broken ground wire.
If you remove the trunk lid cover/blue lining just by pulling it out from corner to corner then you will see a bunch of plugs and wires for various functions. Check around the harness you will likely find a spare plug that does not plug to anywhere. One of the three wires connected to this plug is a brown only wire. For a temporary fix, you can connect a loose ground wire to this brown wire to supply ground signal to the whole harness as the brown only ground wire is connected to all functions. In fact for this case, you can connect the make-up ground wire to any "brown only" color wire on the harness. Make sure you let this ground wire to hang loose inside the trunk but NOT taping it to the cable as the cable will retract inside the box when the lid closes.
The permanent fix will be to replace the whole harness which is rather easy (1/2 hour). If you buy the harness outside the dealer make sure you know the year as for 2002+ the harness includes an extra terminal/plug for the trunk entrapment release switch. 2001 or older model cable will work fine for everything except without this plug. You will find used ones at eBay for less than $100. A new one from the dealer is about $400.
To replace the harness, which comes with an integrated rectangle plastic cable housing. Once you received the replacement harness, the removal and installation is self-explanatory by looking at the new harness's housing structure. It might be a little tricky to figure out how to remove the box the first time if you don't already have the replacement harness on hand for reference.
If there is only one function of the lid opening mechanism that does not work (such as soft close) and at least one license plate light works then it could be other wire inside the sliding cable or the vacumn tube. It is not practical to repair the wire inside the cable as the repair won't last very well due to the sliding in and out during lid open and closure.
Thanks for your response. I will attempt this repair tomorrow. I have been away for a bit.
I will take pictures (something this sites seems to be adverse) and let you know of my success or no success.



