Wont Crank
Some other things you may want to check:
a) Starter relay
b) Does interior dome lights go dim when you crank?
c) Are there any noise you hear when you crank? Starter spinning, click, etc.
d) If you have a second set of key, try it. If not, check battery on current key. Replace battery if necessary.
e) Check gear shifter and make sure the lever did set on park last time you parked the car. Shift through the gears, especially between N and D. I am not sure if this issue would apply to the S500 but have heard it def does for the S600. Others can chime and and let you know if this does apply.
f) Problem with the EIS module. If everything else check out ok, then it could be that there is problem with EIS with is where the key goes in.
That's all I can think of.
I have a similar problem on my car where it wouldn't crank. I've replaced and checked everything else. The unique symptom on mine would be that when it didn't crank, I would have to leave the key in the ignition module for 20-40 minutes then it would start. Recently I replaced the starter. So far it has been starting every time for the last 5 days. Too early to tell if it's been resolved.
The Engine management fuses are in the engine bay fuse boxes, have you checked those?
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The Engine management fuses are in the engine bay fuse boxes, have you checked those? Yes
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How to jump start a Mercedes S430/S500 W220 with trunk jammed or locked - YouTube
The scanner would say that 199 driver authorization = no
I got the transmission code and they were all communication related.
So, though the transmission plug was full of oil, then it was but that was not the problem.
Though the EIS was the problem, key was turning but the driver authorisation stay at no.
Then I bough a use shifter, EIS and ECU and swap, same result, I putted back old EIS , ECU and shifter. (by the way I did check the shifter lever inside and shifter was good.
I checked all fuse, every where, the one in the passenger foot well, rear trunk, passenger side, front left and front right.
Got all the sam out and verify that all component was not soak, checked for water trance in the right sam area. Checked the cicuit board of TCU in the right side front (passenger side) same result.
So, I got an oscilloscope and checked the can, I was very surprise how dirty the signal was. Not a square but all spike and so.
So, I disconnected the battery, and cut the white and green of EIS, Shifter, ECU and TCU
I ran communication from the EIS, directly to shifter and ECU, TCU.
Car started right away.
Then I traced back the wire, they get into the driver side foot well.
there was the interconnectin of all green and green white. water got to this place and all wire were corroded. I redid all connection with solder and insultation. I saw also anothe can (body can) interconnection that was also corroded there, I cut and redo all of them.
Now the S430 start and I get status gear in the cluster. I got lot's of stability.
Still need to find some little problem here and there but mainly the car is on is way to ride again.
Wouldn't turnover at all - felt like dead battery and it started fine with a jumpstart. Drove for 10 mins to work (probably not long enough) - had to jump again a few hours later and took it to Les Schwab to have the battery checked and they said it was fine. Let it run for a while and it was back to normal - no more issues.
4 weeks later (yesterday) same thing happened. Radio and everything was fine but barely a cough when I tried to turn it over. Jumped it, ran it and now it seems fine again.
What's my issue?
HELP, please
Dan
Last edited by bongs500; Jun 29, 2016 at 04:42 PM.
Just for the record, I have no affiliation whatsoever with Advance Auto other than buying car parts from them.
Now, I'm working on it. Purchased new battery. Dash lights work, air blows, but radio does not come on. Checked the rear SAM, looks good. Did multimeter check of fuses in trunk, passenger foot well and under hood. Fuse block seems to good at all wires. Got it to crank a couple of times, but then nothing. I've tried to jump at fuel relay between 30 and 87 but nothing. I'm not getting voltage at any of the outputs where fuel relay plugs.
This is a nice car and I hope we can get it running.
Now, I'm working on it. Purchased new battery. Dash lights work, air blows, but radio does not come on. Checked the rear SAM, looks good. Did multimeter check of fuses in trunk, passenger foot well and under hood. Fuse block seems to good at all wires. Got it to crank a couple of times, but then nothing. I've tried to jump at fuel relay between 30 and 87 but nothing. I'm not getting voltage at any of the outputs where fuel relay plugs.
This is a nice car and I hope we can get it running.
if it solves your problem , great! If not, you can resell on eBay as there is high demand for those parts
But, let me ask you and the community, because I had a few dead fuses and points that should be live (have voltage) I've looked at the fuse wiring diagram/schematics and traced from the battery to the starter relay and there are a few wires that should be live when the switch is on and are not at the fuse plug location. Do you think its advisable to narrow down the short first before ordering a part that may or may not solve my issue? My key turns, the shifter position is noted on the dash console. The spare key doesn't turn in the ignition though even after changing the batteries. I'll have to have that one reprogram once I get the car fixed.
If it doesn't rain today, I'll spend time again testing for voltage per the schematic and then if that doesn't pan out, I will take your advice. and order.






