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moved to W220 froum...

Did you kick the forklift operator’s butt??? Smh... what a douche!

There are two oil pans.
The upper oil pan runs the length of the engine.
The lower oil pan sits in front of the subframe.
Hopefully it's just the lower pan, which is much easier.
I have a procedure for the radiator, which I will find. It's a bit tricky on these.

Nick

Removing the W220 radiator is surprisingly difficult. Here's how I did it:

Before doing anything, inspect the new radiator and make sure it’s to spec; this is really important.

• Make sure the outside diameter of the hose receptacle is 41.0 to 41.5 mm.
• Make sure you have threaded receptacles for the fan cowl, IC HE, IC pump, AC HE and AC pipe fittings.
• When you remove the old radiator, some of those fittings may be rusted up – test them first, and figure out what you’re going to do.
• There are rubber & plastic mouldings all around the radiator to control airflow, and they take time to remove & refit.
• Establish whether your header tank fills to the RH header tank, or the bottom hose.
• The new radiator may have a ¾” filler hose receptacle that may need to be blocked off – which can make fitting more difficult.

Get yourself some good lights, and get to work….

• Lift the front end of the car onto stands and remove the top and bottom covers.
• Loosen the header tank cap and drain the cooling system. This takes a while.
• Remove the thermostat/top hose housing and disconnect all the hoses (expect spills).
• Disconnect the electric fan.
• Remove the small clips that hold the top of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
• Remove the two clips that hold the bottom of the fan cowl to the radiator flange.
• Undo the two transmission oil cooler pipes, catch a bit of oil, and cover the pipe ends.
• Undo the two nuts at the top corners of the fan cowl.
• Pull the fan assy up an inch, tilt it back and pull it out upwards (pushing the IC pipes out of the way). Its a bit of a battle.
• From underneath, undo the IC pump and its bracket from the radiator.
• Still underneath, remove the bolt that holds the aircon pipes bracket to the radiator.
• Unbolt the top L&R of the aircon condenser from the radiator.
• Unbolt the IC heat exchanger from the radiator, and support it.
• Undo the plastic clamps that hold the top of the radiator.
• Push the top of the radiator back and remove the bleed pipe.
• Remove the plastic brackets that are clipped half-way up each side of the radiator.
• Lift the radiator out.

Lifting the radiator out is unsurprisingly more difficult than it sounds, as it’s a tight fit width-wise between the chassis rails. On my car there were three steering and suspension oil coolant pipes that squeeze through an aperture alongside the radiator. The aperture is sealed-up with a triangular rubber grommet, which best pulled forwards out of the way of the radiator. The pipes then need to be manipulated so they’re flat against the chassis rail, and give as much room for the radiator as possible.

Now is the time to replace the anti-freeze, the thermostat, the thermostat housing o-ring, the hose connector o-rings, and the hoses and aux drive belt if you feel like it.

Refitting is the reverse of removal, but:

• Check that the top hose assy fits both radiator receptacles before fitting the radiator (ask me why).
• Tape sheets of corrugated card to the front and rear facesof the new radiator, otherwise you’ll make a horrible mess during fitting.
• Make sure the aircon condenser is in about the right position before you push the new radiator forwards into position.
• Make sure all the small hoses and cables are tied away from the moving parts, like the ancillaries and the aux belt.
• The cooling system bleeds itself, but only when the engine is fully warmed-up, and you need patience.

If you’re prepared, it should take about a day.

Wow...

I think that we all owe you a big "Thank you!" for this post.

THANK YOU

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before, I didn't, and when I later reinstalled the radiator fan it was toast (and I had to replace it again)!