DIY transmission fluid change/flush
#51
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 670
Likes: 363
From: Washington, DC
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, and 2017 Mustang GT, and just got a 2023 300C
I had a similar experience on my S600 which has a 5 speed automatic. I asked the dealer to service the trans at 55K. They charged me $400. Only drained and refilled; not flushed at all. Also, they underfilled it on the refill which led to problems overheating and slipping within 5 months. Cost them a new transmission under warranty. My advice is after the dealer trans refill service, take it to an Indy and pay him to confirm the fluid level and color.
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 698
04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Nick, great write up...thanks. I'm going to do this on my 2008 550 soon. In the WIS instructions, MB details removing the electric transmission oil pump, but does not mention any oil draining out of it. I have not seen anyone else mention removing the pump...skip this step? It seem like WIS sometimes has additional steps that really aren't necessary. I have not done this job before, so sorry if this is obvious and might become clear once I start the project.
#53
I'm going to finally tackle this job later today or tomorrow. Regarding temperature to aim for, WIS confusingly lists 35c, 45c, and 90c for various models. I think I'm aiming for 45c for my plain vanilla 2008 M273 with 722.9. Can anyone verify?
#54
I thought it was 80C
in many ways the best thing is drain fill, drive and do it all again, its all highly stupid to believe the 1 liter left in the box internals, pretending to push clean stuff though the cooler and indeed hoping it has a TC drain bung is anything like operating the entire unit with fresh fluid then do it again is anything like the same - and if you want to do it right pull all the solenoids and get the gunk off the gauze filter on each one
in many ways the best thing is drain fill, drive and do it all again, its all highly stupid to believe the 1 liter left in the box internals, pretending to push clean stuff though the cooler and indeed hoping it has a TC drain bung is anything like operating the entire unit with fresh fluid then do it again is anything like the same - and if you want to do it right pull all the solenoids and get the gunk off the gauze filter on each one
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vettebk (09-24-2022)
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,877
Likes: 698
04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
It depends on whether you are doing the trans cooler, and which overflow tube/pan you are using. 90C for trans cooler replacement makes sense assuming it has a thermostat. I think I did 45C on mine based on my configuration. Don't get all crazy with temp sensors vs IR temp gun at bottom of pan. Apply common sense.
#57
It depends on whether you are doing the trans cooler, and which overflow tube/pan you are using. 90C for trans cooler replacement makes sense assuming it has a thermostat. I think I did 45C on mine based on my configuration. Don't get all crazy with temp sensors vs IR temp gun at bottom of pan. Apply common sense.
#59
early models transmission red
later models transmission blue
for coolant …
early models blue (G48)
later models pink (G40)
Last edited by lkchris; 09-26-2022 at 05:34 PM.
#60
oh dear, must be getting old - but also confused over the old brand listed in konigstiger post
The early 7G boxes takes 236.14 - fuchs version = TITAN ATF 4134
Ultra High Performance ATF, specially developed to optimize shifting performance of Mercedes-Benz automatic transmissions. Product dyeing: red.
The later 7G boxes take 236.15 - fuchs version = TITAN ATF 7134 FE
Premium Performance ATF with reduced viscosity, especially developed to further optimize fuel-economy and gearbox efficiency of latest generation Mercedes-Benz 7-speed automatic transmissions. Not downwards compatible with previous MB-ATF-Specifications. Product dyeing: blue.
Productname
Mercedes-Benz Genuine ATF MB 236.14
MB 236.14 ATF NAG2VSport A 001 989 68 03-
MB 236.14 Genuine ATF A 000 989 68 05-
Aral Getriebeöl ATF M14
arexons ATF 236.14
ATF 6140
ATF 7-Speed
ATF 722.9R
ATF M14
Fuchs TITAN ATF 4134
IPIRANGA ATF 236.14
LETOF ATF 134
LIQUI MOLY TOP TEC ATF 1600
LIQUIMATIC DX14
LUKOIL ATF SYNTH M 14
MATIC 14
Mobil ATF 134
MOTUL ATF 236.14
Neste ATF M14
OEM AMB7
PENTOSIN ATF 134
Q8 AUTO 25
RAVENOL ATF M 9-Serie
Shell ATF134
Shell SPIRAX S6 ATF 134M
Sinopec Greatwall ATF-B14
Tim Eckart ATF 7 Performance 236.14
Total Fluidmatic 7S
Valvoline ATF Pro 236.14
ZIC ATF 914
Productname
Mercedes-Benz Genuine ATF FE MB 236.15-
MB 236.15 Genuine ATF FE A 000 989 69 05-
ATF 7150
ATF 722.9G
ATF 7GT-Speed
ATF M15
Fuchs TITAN ATF 7134 FE
LETOF ATF 134FE
LUKOIL ATF SYNTH M 15
MATIC 15
Mobil ATF 134 FE
MOTUL ATF 236.15
Neste ATF M15
OEM AMB7N
PENTOSIN ATF 134 FE
Q8 Auto M 15
RAVENOL ATF M 9-FE Serie
Shell ATF 134FE
Shell Spirax S6 ATF 134ME
Sinopec Greatwall ATF-B15
Valvoline ATF Pro 236.15
ZIC ATF 915
#61
Well crap, I was finishing buttoning up my project yesterday, when I broke off half one of the bolts I was torquing to the drain pan. Of course it was the driver side forward--toughest one to access. I had the torque wrench on it...really don't know what happened, or why it broke. Anyway, I've now got 1/2 a bolt broken off in the transmission housing. I can't get a needle nose pliers on it. Anyone have advice on how to extract this? To make matters my torque converter drain plug stripped as I was torquing that, so I really don't know how accurately that is screwed into the torque converter. I'm thinking my torque wrench must be off, to have these two things happen in such short order.
Can anyone advise on extracting the oil pan bolt? For the torque converter plug, I was planning to notch that with a dremmel, and hopefully screw that out. I don't think that will be as hard. Help! I was using German made Vaico parts, btw, so they shouldn't be junk.
Can anyone advise on extracting the oil pan bolt? For the torque converter plug, I was planning to notch that with a dremmel, and hopefully screw that out. I don't think that will be as hard. Help! I was using German made Vaico parts, btw, so they shouldn't be junk.
#63
Well, got the torque converter plug out, but the pan bolt is still stuck. Going to take it to the dealer and let them sort out the rest. It would have been easier had the bolt not been the one buried behind the front bracket and various wires. BTW, was using new bolts...just bad luck I guess.