kn51

Have dynamic seats. Rear has massage. All seats have no functioning lumbar. If I set the value in COMAND for front, it resets to zero. Rear seats do nothing with the control panel in the arm rest. Air pump doesn't seem to trigger at all.

So I fire up DAS. I can actuate the pump. It runs, but pressure only builds to around 200 hpa and appears to bleed off right away.

Somewhat at a loss. DAS has a function to test for leaks but before it runs basically gives me "test has been aborted" before it even starts.

Actuating lumbar functions in DAS does not fire the pump either.

Everything looks coded right within DAS.

Given lack of pressure of buildup, I expect a leak somewhere...either the reservoir or a line. But not actuating the pump at all, perhaps the pump needs to be reset?

xpl0sive

DAS showing any fault codes? If you had a leak, it should throw a code

Drives550

Dynamic seats - will the seat back side bolsters inflate and hold? Will they inflate/deflate when driving as they should?

I ask because my dynamic seat lumbar had problems: sometimes would inflate, sometimes just not at all and return to zero; and then oddly deflate. Just very sporadic.

At the same time, side bolsters would deflate within 2-15 minutes of inflating/driving.

Replaced the side bolster bags (one was leaking; think they only come as a single piece unit with both L and R side bags joined together) and for some reason that also fixed the lumbar without doing anything in particular to or for the lumbar.

Mind you, I didn't do this, the dealer did. So I have no input on labor or process. But, SA and receipt confirm nothing was done to the lumbar mechanism, but it was functioning properly after replacement of the side bolsters.

kn51

Yes, for front driver seat example...basically throws faults that every bladder is bad.

Which (may be possible) that they are all...but no seat directs the pump to activate.

Guess what I'm saying is..it is throwing faults thinking there is a leak because there is no change of air pressure due to pump not activating.

Is there a trick to pull a fuse in the rear fuse box of a S600? Looks like a pain in the **** considering how it is mounted.

xpl0sive

You can access the rear fuse box through through the rear storage compartment, you open up the flap on the bottom. But I assume you already knew that. Once you get it open, it's fairly easy to get to the fuses.

kn51

Amazing what writing out and taking a step back will do. I appreciate all your thoughts.

So I open rear door key off. Pump kicks on for 90 seconds then quits as designed. During this I hear a wooshing/whirring sound from front left. Hard to describe...in the past I had a laptop with all sorts of crap hooked up so the noise I attributed to "accessory" type stuff.

But this is a full blown leak coming from the front seat. The sound stops after the pump shuts off.

alx

You need to check your air pump valve block. You are leaking air at multiple circuits (so it is likely your valve block) and the pump becomes disabled to prevent overheating.

kn51

Understood, but it sounds like to my ear leak is from front seat.

Any tips to remove seat back? I undid Torx screws. I can slide back around not sure to pull or if there is a trick to it.

xpl0sive

check this thread, scroll down through photos. may be of some help to you

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...project-6.html

kn51

Pulled back off. It slides down and off.

With that exposed everything looks ok. I still hear leakage, unfortunately from the seat (butt) portion.

xpl0sive

pull the seat out, may be easier to diagnose it then

kn51

Been a busy week, just getting back to this.

While I have no issues with removing the seat, unless there is an obvious line that I would spot as being cracked knowing my luck one of the lumbar bags is toast. The WIS/EPC is a little confusing in regards to these seats.

So folks, place your bets. Time to test out my third party warranty since I think I'm going to haul it into the dealer for the first time. I'm sure it will be full of laughs...and tears.

kn51

This kept nagging me and my god I found the dang leak.

Front hose under the seat...right up front. Gave it a gentle tug and out it came. Looks like a broken connector. Hose end shooting out air has remnants of a plastic fitting. Unfortunately the other end is wrapped up in tape along with electrical wires. Was running out of daylight so couldn't expose the other end. Besides that, one needs to be a contortionist. If I could yank off the storage and side plastic I'd have plenty of room to work.

I must be an idiot with WIS. I look up front seat removal and all it points me to is removing a door sill. EPC is another laugh. I pull up the seat diagrams and nothing correlates to the air lines I'm looking for.

xpl0sive

i can have a look in WIS tomorrow for you on my other computer. send me your VIN if you want

xpl0sive

couple links for you... looks like the article you want for seat removal is AR91 10-P-1000SX

http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes..._seat_cushion/

http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...ce_and_repair/

instruction from another forum:

Drives550

Nice work.

Have you confirmed whether not your warranty will cover the repair? I understand if you're just having some fun here, but if the warranty would cover it id be reluctant to do anything that could give them reason not to cover it.

If you're not sure, you can just call the warranty co and ask.

kn51

Yes, wanted to say to thanks to all those that helped.

After thinking about this, I could in this situation fix it for $1 and my time.

But if I do it, lumbar starts working but oops...a bad air bladder. Then they would spot a hack job.

So I'm going to drag it in next week and will give you an update. There are a couple of other issues to address as well.

kn51

Welp, here we go.

I'm not sure how to really begin with this one. This will be a boring and very long read. I'm going to ramble and leave out a ton of stuff.

I dragged it to the dealer.

I'm not a fan of dealers. Really, we know all those arguments. But I had to start from somewhere to establish a baseline on what I find somewhat acceptable vs. walking and trying to find an indy in my town. This car I've owned for 4 months and am 2 months eligible into my 3rd party warranty.

Along with the lumbar problem, there were a couple other things that have manifested. So I gave them a short list of the seats (told them about the broken air line), sat radio went missing, clunk noise on cold startup, and the middle headrest in the backseat I could not get to retract.

Given the title of the thread, yes, the tube was broken. The kicker is, the other end of the plumbing was hidden under the tape I described. So, in order to fix it to original specs that other end of the tubing wrapped up with everything else is basically called a seat harness. A single part that is a byzantine maze of wiring and air tubes. In other words, it's damn expensive.

They patched it. Once patched, lumbar works great like I expected.

Sat radio module is shot.

Discovered two leaking ABC lines which goes with the clunk sound and suspension sagging. They can't diagnosis if the valve blocks are shot until those lines are fixed first.

After they got the lumbar sorted out tested switches. Back door module doesn't actuate everything.

In short, service advisor gone the extra mile with the warranty company (Carchex/Assurant) spending an hour on the phone with them.

Basically the warranty claim submitted for this work will be around 4.5K. This was based on all the above bad modules/harnesses/hoses etc.

I'm leaving out a bunch of other details, but Assurant will cover Pentosin fluids which somewhat floored the service advisor.

The biggest fiasco is an idler pulley. This one will boggle your mind.

But enough words, dealer was quite honest with describing issues and went to closing time on the phone to get things squared away. Ain't over yet, but looking somewhat good except for the god dang idler pulley.

Shocked to say, impressed with the dealer.

Drives550

Good stuff, thanks for posting.

Why the patch on the tube into the harness and not full replacement (if the warranty would cover)?

And why you teasing us about the pulley? What's the deal there?

I'll say my dealer service experience has depended a lot on the SA. I've got one now that I specifically request every time. My dealer service experiences have now all been top notch.

kn51

Heh, it was a long day after hearing the news and couldn't really wrap my head around everything. Not trying to tease, just was a long night and had a few drinks in me...more on that later.

I was somewhat surprised when the SA said he hasn't dealt with Assurant. Granted, I somewhat knew the seat would be covered. Since I didn't really have a rapport with the dealer I was basically in screw it mode, let's deal with this later.

So basically they probably took out the seat, noticed the problem, and yeah, it would be a few bucks to fix at that juncture. At this point I was on the hook for for their diagnostic fees.

After the SA was talking to the warranty place, he basically submitted everything realizing that "hey, this all might be covered."

As for the idler, man that is interesting. I swear he said drivers side. But after looking at the routing there isn't one there. So perhaps we got mixed up on left and right. Like I said, long night and who knows what who said.

So today I looked up the belt diagram. Only real idler he described was on the passenger side. Grooved pulley. Is that the right one...At this point I don't know. Hopefully I get somewhat of a resolution to everything Monday and will ask for clarification.

The idler pulley, they might be feeding me ****. Let's just say Assurant doesn't agree with MB in regards on how to replace whatever pulley it is. Should be fairly simple I would think, but perhaps the dealer is feeding me ****. I was surprised though how much detail they went through in describing what they would have to do to replace it.

As for the long night...ABC finally gave up after I drove it home and out for dinner. Got the red "DO NOT DRIVE". So it finished up a glorious day in magnificent fashion.

Is there something magical with idler pulleys?

Drives550

Fun cars, am I right?!

Interesting tale. I know nothing about idler pulley's, so nothing to offer there.

So, I'm taking it that the dealer wants more labor for the repair than Assurant thinks is necessary? That has happened on my warranty claims, but the SA just adjusted the labor time downward to accommodate. Though, the adjustments weren't really what I'd call significant. Perhaps yours would be, and so they are resisting. But, I think it's standard fare for warranty work. If your dealer doesn't want to play, you can try elsewhere. Though, I know that's a hassle.

DaveW68

I had my idler pulley replaced last June at only 28k miles. I believe that was the 2nd time it's been replaced on my car, so this is apparently a common issue with these engines. My after-market warranty covered it with no issues. Also, your ABC should be fully covered if you have an exclusionary contract. The ABC pulsation dampener has already been replaced twice (once since I've had the car at 29k) and there had been an issue with the high pressure line leaking which was fixed when the previous owner had it. I could never imagine owning this car without good warranty coverage. It could bankrupt anybody....and mine is currently only at 34k miles.

kn51

Heh, mine is at 32K. Quite a long read to follow...

Apologies for some cussing I did earlier.

So here is where it is at. The 4.5K claim triggered an inspection. These guys basically work for various warranty companies and cover a territory. Once I received news, I got it back to the dealer for the inspection. They basically say, hey, I'll be there in 2 hours. This was yesterday at 5pm, haven't heard back yet.

SA at the dealer is a real bulldog in dealing with them. Really, for the most part they can't back out on most of the items. Sat radio module failed (1K), rear door control ($750), ABC hose replacements with Pentosin...you get the picture...adds up fast.

In regards to the ABC, it pretty much is a valve block. Only the front left sags. Figured an accumulator would cause both sides to sag.

Point is, after we get the hoses replaced there is another possible $1.5K repair to replace the valve block. Yes, it can be repaired by a few o-rings and some solvent...that ain't a big deal. But the dealer solution is replace the block since it is basically non-serviceable. Who knows, after the hose replacement and Pentosin flush it might clear out the solenoids and everything will be happy. (Wishful thinking)

As for the idler, this is where I need help and perhaps some might find interesting.

This an early 2007. Like I've said before I'm an idiot with WIS.

The idler in question is the grooved one on the passenger side of the engine. It is the only grooved idler. I can tell it is somewhat tweaked. Hard to explain, one of those things you can look at and can tell it isn't completely straight.

So, what it boils down to is that apparently MB says hey, along with the pulley, you need the new and improved bracket due to improvements.

SA told me the warranty company read from chapter and verse that warranty doesn't cover retrofit type improvements on parts changes. Yeah, sounds dumb, but I can believe it.

So what does it involve to change the bracket? According to the dealer, valve cover off, coil pack out, intercooler removal, flush intercooler circuit, etc. In other words, to swap out this pulley they are saying $1,900. Crazy right?

So you fine folk with WIS, can you look into this one real quick for me and verify that the job is at least a *****. My WIS is not cooperating with me lately.

It ain't over yet, SA looking for just the pulley and will measure the mating surface. But was just curious if this is indeed the fiasco to replace an idler pulley.

Another day in owernship of an S.

Drives550

Good times.

I'd imagine the inspection to be perfunctory; the things are legitimately broken and the cost of repair is the cost of repair. Other than exclusion for pre-existing, the only basis for denial is a specified exclusion.

The things you've mentioned don't feel like things easily claimed as pre-existing. So, hopefully it's just a thing they had to do.

The pulley question - I don't have the answers your looking for. But, if the warranty won't cover the upgrade, don't upgrade. They can just pay to replace it every 10k miles. Or is something else closing off this solution?

Besides, does Dave's have the upgrade? If so, doesn't appear much of an upgrade given he's on his second at 34k.

DaveW68

Interestingly, I didn't even know that there was an issue with the idler pulley. I had the car in for a transmission issue and the SA said that the idler pulley was very noisy and was surprised that I hadn't complained about it. These cars are so well insulated and quiet, I'm not surprised that I might have missed it. I have no idea if a new bracket was installed, but I assume not. I'll have to look at the service records to see, but I don't recall seeing that mentioned.

IMO, it's not worth forking out the money for a new bracket if the warranty company refuses to cover it. Just let them keep replacing the pulley over and over until they get the picture.