W221 S550 Suspension leak
#1
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Thread Starter
W221 S550 Suspension leak
sorry i meant to label this as w221
so i noticed my mothers 100000 miles 2010 s550 very slightly lower on the drivers left front side...she states while going over speed bumps or changes in pavement the up arrow car symbol shows up while driving
the car has never sat way down like the w220's used to do
the dealer says the front left is bad and needs to be replaced at 1800 parts labor but ofcourse recommends to do the right side and cmpressor for 4300 total for both side and pump...
is this one of those just do it while we are there situations or something that might not have issues with in future and may just be for dealer service sales...
i know the 220's were always bad with their shocks but arent the 221's supposed to be a bit better..
attached is the estimate the dealer gave....it doesnt make a lot of sense to me
thanks
so i noticed my mothers 100000 miles 2010 s550 very slightly lower on the drivers left front side...she states while going over speed bumps or changes in pavement the up arrow car symbol shows up while driving
the car has never sat way down like the w220's used to do
the dealer says the front left is bad and needs to be replaced at 1800 parts labor but ofcourse recommends to do the right side and cmpressor for 4300 total for both side and pump...
is this one of those just do it while we are there situations or something that might not have issues with in future and may just be for dealer service sales...
i know the 220's were always bad with their shocks but arent the 221's supposed to be a bit better..
attached is the estimate the dealer gave....it doesnt make a lot of sense to me
thanks
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Don't know who told you the 221s are better, all airmatic cars need struts at 100k miles or so, they are rubber parts and fail.
The fact that it's always lower and shows the up arrow warning makes me think the valve block is failed and it can no longer pump that corner up, not that the strut is leaking. But if it doesn't need a strut right this second, it will soon. Always replace in pairs when it comes to suspension stuff. Seems normal.
The fact that it's always lower and shows the up arrow warning makes me think the valve block is failed and it can no longer pump that corner up, not that the strut is leaking. But if it doesn't need a strut right this second, it will soon. Always replace in pairs when it comes to suspension stuff. Seems normal.
#3
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Thread Starter
maybe i assumed they were better than 220 because our 220 was always hitting the floor
is the valve block a seperate component than the compressor or do they go together
the right side has been fine, just the left which has sat maybe less than inch lower
when u turn on car, it works and lifts the car up and u hear the motor /compressor doing its thing...
unfortunately im not around the car all the time, but i dont want my parents to get ripped off into getting more than than needed
about the control arms...why not just change the ball joint...yeah im sure using a press may take a little more time but overall from consumer st pt it should be cheaper
is the valve block a seperate component than the compressor or do they go together
the right side has been fine, just the left which has sat maybe less than inch lower
when u turn on car, it works and lifts the car up and u hear the motor /compressor doing its thing...
unfortunately im not around the car all the time, but i dont want my parents to get ripped off into getting more than than needed
about the control arms...why not just change the ball joint...yeah im sure using a press may take a little more time but overall from consumer st pt it should be cheaper
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
maybe i assumed they were better than 220 because our 220 was always hitting the floor
is the valve block a seperate component than the compressor or do they go together
the right side has been fine, just the left which has sat maybe less than inch lower
when u turn on car, it works and lifts the car up and u hear the motor /compressor doing its thing...
unfortunately im not around the car all the time, but i dont want my parents to get ripped off into getting more than than needed
about the control arms...why not just change the ball joint...yeah im sure using a press may take a little more time but overall from consumer st pt it should be cheaper
is the valve block a seperate component than the compressor or do they go together
the right side has been fine, just the left which has sat maybe less than inch lower
when u turn on car, it works and lifts the car up and u hear the motor /compressor doing its thing...
unfortunately im not around the car all the time, but i dont want my parents to get ripped off into getting more than than needed
about the control arms...why not just change the ball joint...yeah im sure using a press may take a little more time but overall from consumer st pt it should be cheaper
If the ball joints are separate, you can change them, sure. Depends which one and which car, some only come with the arm.
#7
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'71 Pinto
Note connectors are available separately if found to be the problem at valve.
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#8
Super Member
If you were doing this job yourself it would cost a whole lot less.
With Star/Xentry you can determine if the valve block is working correctly.
With Star/Xentry you can determine if the valve block is working correctly.
#10
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2010 e550 p2
do they have front ones for w221? Because up until this day they only got rear ones for my w212. Not sure , but i would imagine it would be the same strut as w212 or pretty similar... so best bet is to get a used one or send it to be rebuild (obviously if IS leaking and this is the issue)