Cylinder 11 misfire
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Cylinder 11 misfire
I have a 2009 s600. So I just fixed the passenger side misfires and it runs really well whenever I first start it. I drove it for the first time in two weeks today because of other issues and it was fine until I gave it the ol' Italian tune up. The check engine light came on and it ended up being a misfire in cylinder 11. the only relevant information I have on that one is I wasn't able to replace one of the spark plugs because someone put two smaller inserts in it so I couldn't remove the lower insert to be able to replace that spark plug. It was the right spark plug in that cylinder if that would make a difference.
#2
that first bit doesn't make sense to me - can you give more detail on why you can fit two new plugs on that cylinder.... and what condition were all the other plugs you replaced ? where they ALL the same brand and grade and in the same sort of condition ?
As I wrote in that bit of how the set up works - on these v12s every other spark, the opposite spark plug in that cylinder swaps duties from mains spark to emission clean up spark - so everyone needs to be OK
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
that first bit doesn't make sense to me - can you give more detail on why you can fit two new plugs on that cylinder.... and what condition were all the other plugs you replaced ? where they ALL the same brand and grade and in the same sort of condition ?
As I wrote in that bit of how the set up works - on these v12s every other spark, the opposite spark plug in that cylinder swaps duties from mains spark to emission clean up spark - so everyone needs to be OK
As I wrote in that bit of how the set up works - on these v12s every other spark, the opposite spark plug in that cylinder swaps duties from mains spark to emission clean up spark - so everyone needs to be OK
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 650
Received 338 Likes
on
227 Posts
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, and 2017 Mustang GT, and just got a 2023 300C
So you need to pull those old silicon inserts off those plugs on cylinder 11. It is OK to use a needle nose pliers on them. Just yank them out. I wrote to you already about old inserts that have electrical faults or burns. Why would you use an old insert on new plugs and a new coil pack? The idea is to clean things up!!! Pull those old inserts, replace with new ones, report back.
#5
"inserts of ?
1) metal radio shielding
2) rubber insulation
either way I'd be trying silicon lube in there - as a lube to help it want to come to come
or wd40, it tends to make most rubber swell up so it gets bigger than the plug and will lube it coming out too
or you could start with an aggressive brake or contact type cleaner - that may allow you to see what happening, and tends to upset some rubber also making it grow and come lose
I don't agree oil will cause electrical issues (dirt, contamination, acids and water - yes), you can pick up your whole PC and put in a bath of chip fat if you want it will last longer - just use clean chip fat.
so anyway its got to come out either long nose pliers and or lube to make it less happy to grip the plug insulators - I use a bit of silicon on the rubbers to make sure they want to come out next round, oddly got such a good seal with new coil sticks on my BM it built air pressure and the coils wanted to pop off due to pressure...
how about lube and a pick - working like a barb, goes in twist 90 degrees then on the way out sticks in the insert and you pull it out?
.
1) metal radio shielding
2) rubber insulation
either way I'd be trying silicon lube in there - as a lube to help it want to come to come
or wd40, it tends to make most rubber swell up so it gets bigger than the plug and will lube it coming out too
or you could start with an aggressive brake or contact type cleaner - that may allow you to see what happening, and tends to upset some rubber also making it grow and come lose
I don't agree oil will cause electrical issues (dirt, contamination, acids and water - yes), you can pick up your whole PC and put in a bath of chip fat if you want it will last longer - just use clean chip fat.
so anyway its got to come out either long nose pliers and or lube to make it less happy to grip the plug insulators - I use a bit of silicon on the rubbers to make sure they want to come out next round, oddly got such a good seal with new coil sticks on my BM it built air pressure and the coils wanted to pop off due to pressure...
how about lube and a pick - working like a barb, goes in twist 90 degrees then on the way out sticks in the insert and you pull it out?
.
Last edited by BOTUS; 08-07-2023 at 11:01 AM.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well suddenly this became less important lol. So I was driving and I came up to a stop light and the car died. So I tried starting it again and nothing. The car has power but it doesn't even act like it wants to start.
#7
might be crank position sensor - have a tea and see if its magically normal in an hour
common failure on modern cars - can cause it to stumble and stall at low speeds too - when old they don't like getting hot
common failure on modern cars - can cause it to stumble and stall at low speeds too - when old they don't like getting hot
The following users liked this post:
vettebk (08-07-2023)
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well how convenient that I have a crank sensor lol. Not with me but I have one.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#10
u never clarified no crank - I thought u meant no start
not enough amps
starter given up
?
not enough amps
starter given up
?
#11
might as well read through the post about needing lots of starter motors - lots of comments within the last 2 months - forget now, but was a school of thought it can't just be bad starters al the time....