S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

Cylinder 11 misfire

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Old 08-06-2023, 07:47 PM
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2009 S600
Cylinder 11 misfire

I have a 2009 s600. So I just fixed the passenger side misfires and it runs really well whenever I first start it. I drove it for the first time in two weeks today because of other issues and it was fine until I gave it the ol' Italian tune up. The check engine light came on and it ended up being a misfire in cylinder 11. the only relevant information I have on that one is I wasn't able to replace one of the spark plugs because someone put two smaller inserts in it so I couldn't remove the lower insert to be able to replace that spark plug. It was the right spark plug in that cylinder if that would make a difference.
Old 08-07-2023, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by xx2pro4uxx21
... I wasn't able to replace one of the spark plugs because someone put two smaller inserts in it so I couldn't remove the lower insert to be able to replace that spark plug. It was the right spark plug in that cylinder if that would make a difference.

that first bit doesn't make sense to me - can you give more detail on why you can fit two new plugs on that cylinder.... and what condition were all the other plugs you replaced ? where they ALL the same brand and grade and in the same sort of condition ?

As I wrote in that bit of how the set up works - on these v12s every other spark, the opposite spark plug in that cylinder swaps duties from mains spark to emission clean up spark - so everyone needs to be OK
Old 08-07-2023, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
that first bit doesn't make sense to me - can you give more detail on why you can fit two new plugs on that cylinder.... and what condition were all the other plugs you replaced ? where they ALL the same brand and grade and in the same sort of condition ?

As I wrote in that bit of how the set up works - on these v12s every other spark, the opposite spark plug in that cylinder swaps duties from mains spark to emission clean up spark - so everyone needs to be OK
Yeah sure. So the inserts that go in the coils is what I'm talking about. There were some plug wells that had older inserts that got stuck and didn't come out with the coil. I could get most of them out but not that one because it was deeper. The inserts were also stacked. So the coils that had the older, smaller inserts had two inserts in them. Most of the plug wells were pretty full of oil which I have since fixed. And they were all the same plug. I will be getting back into that side of the engine bay to fix a mistake I made so I can try again.
Old 08-07-2023, 10:50 AM
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So you need to pull those old silicon inserts off those plugs on cylinder 11. It is OK to use a needle nose pliers on them. Just yank them out. I wrote to you already about old inserts that have electrical faults or burns. Why would you use an old insert on new plugs and a new coil pack? The idea is to clean things up!!! Pull those old inserts, replace with new ones, report back.
Old 08-07-2023, 10:57 AM
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"inserts of ?
1) metal radio shielding
2) rubber insulation

either way I'd be trying silicon lube in there - as a lube to help it want to come to come
or wd40, it tends to make most rubber swell up so it gets bigger than the plug and will lube it coming out too
or you could start with an aggressive brake or contact type cleaner - that may allow you to see what happening, and tends to upset some rubber also making it grow and come lose
I don't agree oil will cause electrical issues (dirt, contamination, acids and water - yes), you can pick up your whole PC and put in a bath of chip fat if you want it will last longer - just use clean chip fat.

so anyway its got to come out either long nose pliers and or lube to make it less happy to grip the plug insulators - I use a bit of silicon on the rubbers to make sure they want to come out next round, oddly got such a good seal with new coil sticks on my BM it built air pressure and the coils wanted to pop off due to pressure...

how about lube and a pick - working like a barb, goes in twist 90 degrees then on the way out sticks in the insert and you pull it out?


.

Last edited by BOTUS; 08-07-2023 at 11:01 AM.
Old 08-07-2023, 02:12 PM
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Well suddenly this became less important lol. So I was driving and I came up to a stop light and the car died. So I tried starting it again and nothing. The car has power but it doesn't even act like it wants to start.
Old 08-07-2023, 02:20 PM
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might be crank position sensor - have a tea and see if its magically normal in an hour

common failure on modern cars - can cause it to stumble and stall at low speeds too - when old they don't like getting hot
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Old 08-07-2023, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
might be crank position sensor - have a tea and see if its magically normal in an hour

common failure on modern cars - can cause it to stumble and stall at low speeds too - when old they don't like getting hot
Well how convenient that I have a crank sensor lol. Not with me but I have one.
Old 08-07-2023, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
might be crank position sensor - have a tea and see if its magically normal in an hour

common failure on modern cars - can cause it to stumble and stall at low speeds too - when old they don't like getting hot
Would that cause it to no click no crank like this?
Old 08-07-2023, 04:35 PM
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u never clarified no crank - I thought u meant no start

not enough amps
starter given up

?
Old 08-07-2023, 04:39 PM
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might as well read through the post about needing lots of starter motors - lots of comments within the last 2 months - forget now, but was a school of thought it can't just be bad starters al the time....

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