Spoiler is spoiling my life
#1
Spoiler is spoiling my life
So today is the day I must part with my new S560 to have them fix the damaged paint from MB taking the spoiler off — evidently without knowing how. You may have seen the pics elsewhere on this forum.
I am very worried about this process to the point that I’d almost rather live with the impurity than have them butcher my trunk. Now perhaps I’m overreacting, but I cannot believe that whomever this vehicle is being sent to will be able to effectively take off and reapply all the S560 and 4MATIC silver letters without it looking like crap.
Like many of you, I have a dangerously discerning eye when it comes to this stuff. I will notice the slightest out of place character and it will freak me out. I foresee that in 2 weeks I will be engrossed in a battle with MB to replace my entire trunk.
1- what does a trunk replacement cost on a standard black 2019 S560?
2- does anyone actually think the paint shop will be able to successfully reapply the letters as they were done factory?
3- what would you do in my situation? (Putting spoiler back on is not an option)
I am very worried about this process to the point that I’d almost rather live with the impurity than have them butcher my trunk. Now perhaps I’m overreacting, but I cannot believe that whomever this vehicle is being sent to will be able to effectively take off and reapply all the S560 and 4MATIC silver letters without it looking like crap.
Like many of you, I have a dangerously discerning eye when it comes to this stuff. I will notice the slightest out of place character and it will freak me out. I foresee that in 2 weeks I will be engrossed in a battle with MB to replace my entire trunk.
1- what does a trunk replacement cost on a standard black 2019 S560?
2- does anyone actually think the paint shop will be able to successfully reapply the letters as they were done factory?
3- what would you do in my situation? (Putting spoiler back on is not an option)
#3
Senior Member
Having worked for a automotive repairer for 10 years, I would say you wont be able to tell the difference if they are a professional outfit.
Your boot lid might be removed and painted in a spray booth on its own, dependent on the color match, or they may do it on the car and blend into both 1/4 panels. each way is fine, 99% of people cant tell its been touched, with your badges they may just supply new ones which most come with a mask so they go in the original factory location, I have in the past refitted the original badges, there are a few different techniques to re apply them, generally they go off the picture of the car when it is first brought into the repairer and can get them pretty spot on.
I really would not worry.
Btw, if you buy a new boot lid it comes unpainted with no badges, so that's not really a option.
Your boot lid might be removed and painted in a spray booth on its own, dependent on the color match, or they may do it on the car and blend into both 1/4 panels. each way is fine, 99% of people cant tell its been touched, with your badges they may just supply new ones which most come with a mask so they go in the original factory location, I have in the past refitted the original badges, there are a few different techniques to re apply them, generally they go off the picture of the car when it is first brought into the repairer and can get them pretty spot on.
I really would not worry.
Btw, if you buy a new boot lid it comes unpainted with no badges, so that's not really a option.
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Ok this is that post. I would demand they take it back to metal to paint it and not just scuff and paint... unless you now the shop and trust them... Watch them do it.
The adhesive certainly leached into the clear that wasn't 100% gassed and caused your issue. The only proper fix is to take it back to a layer under where the chemical reaction occurred...
And there is no way to tell what layer is safe, so I would take it back to metal and prep again from scratch.
Ok this is that post. I would demand they take it back to metal to paint it and not just scuff and paint... unless you now the shop and trust them... Watch them do it.
The adhesive certainly leached into the clear that wasn't 100% gassed and caused your issue. The only proper fix is to take it back to a layer under where the chemical reaction occurred...
And there is no way to tell what layer is safe, so I would take it back to metal and prep again from scratch.
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Too many german broads
You were so worried about the removal of the spoiler being a issue and guess what, it became a bigger issue. It is just a car..stop worrying about little stuff. Why can't they just put it back on??
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#7
Having worked for a automotive repairer for 10 years, I would say you wont be able to tell the difference if they are a professional outfit.
Your boot lid might be removed and painted in a spray booth on its own, dependent on the color match, or they may do it on the car and blend into both 1/4 panels. each way is fine, 99% of people cant tell its been touched, with your badges they may just supply new ones which most come with a mask so they go in the original factory location, I have in the past refitted the original badges, there are a few different techniques to re apply them, generally they go off the picture of the car when it is first brought into the repairer and can get them pretty spot on.
I really would not worry.
Btw, if you buy a new boot lid it comes unpainted with no badges, so that's not really a option.
Your boot lid might be removed and painted in a spray booth on its own, dependent on the color match, or they may do it on the car and blend into both 1/4 panels. each way is fine, 99% of people cant tell its been touched, with your badges they may just supply new ones which most come with a mask so they go in the original factory location, I have in the past refitted the original badges, there are a few different techniques to re apply them, generally they go off the picture of the car when it is first brought into the repairer and can get them pretty spot on.
I really would not worry.
Btw, if you buy a new boot lid it comes unpainted with no badges, so that's not really a option.
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Re-painting a new black S-Class is exceedingly easy to do for a good Mercedes body shop. Different story on Magno paints...
#9
The paint isn’t my worry. It’s the badges. It seems like so much could go wrong with aligning everything perfectly. I’m guessing that at the factory overseas there is an assembly line that yields perfect badge location on every trunk. Whereas here I think we’ll be relying on someone’s eyeballs and hopefully steady hand.
#11
Member
Also, badges typically come "pre-aligned" to each other on a plastic carrier.
The badge is applied as a group and the carrier is removed.
As long as they do not force an alignment other than desired, you will be fine.
I disagree with taking the trunk lid down to bare metal. As a chemical engineer with over 25 years in the coatings and paint industries as well as manufacturing, I would never strip to bare metal unless absolutely necessary.
The anticorrosive properties employed by the entire "package" are far superior to aftermarket opportunities.
Even when you order body panels from the service parts organization, they come already phosphate and e-coated.
Do your research on where you have your car painted and you will get a very good result. Most major metro areas have a MB certified body/paint shop. I had my bumper cover repainted (and it was a Designo color) with perfect results.
The badge is applied as a group and the carrier is removed.
As long as they do not force an alignment other than desired, you will be fine.
I disagree with taking the trunk lid down to bare metal. As a chemical engineer with over 25 years in the coatings and paint industries as well as manufacturing, I would never strip to bare metal unless absolutely necessary.
The anticorrosive properties employed by the entire "package" are far superior to aftermarket opportunities.
Even when you order body panels from the service parts organization, they come already phosphate and e-coated.
Do your research on where you have your car painted and you will get a very good result. Most major metro areas have a MB certified body/paint shop. I had my bumper cover repainted (and it was a Designo color) with perfect results.
#12
Also, badges typically come "pre-aligned" to each other on a plastic carrier.
The badge is applied as a group and the carrier is removed.
As long as they do not force an alignment other than desired, you will be fine.
I disagree with taking the trunk lid down to bare metal. As a chemical engineer with over 25 years in the coatings and paint industries as well as manufacturing, I would never strip to bare metal unless absolutely necessary.
The anticorrosive properties employed by the entire "package" are far superior to aftermarket opportunities.
Even when you order body panels from the service parts organization, they come already phosphate and e-coated.
Do your research on where you have your car painted and you will get a very good result. Most major metro areas have a MB certified body/paint shop. I had my bumper cover repainted (and it was a Designo color) with perfect results.
The badge is applied as a group and the carrier is removed.
As long as they do not force an alignment other than desired, you will be fine.
I disagree with taking the trunk lid down to bare metal. As a chemical engineer with over 25 years in the coatings and paint industries as well as manufacturing, I would never strip to bare metal unless absolutely necessary.
The anticorrosive properties employed by the entire "package" are far superior to aftermarket opportunities.
Even when you order body panels from the service parts organization, they come already phosphate and e-coated.
Do your research on where you have your car painted and you will get a very good result. Most major metro areas have a MB certified body/paint shop. I had my bumper cover repainted (and it was a Designo color) with perfect results.
#13
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You have had an ordeal with purchase process and now this. Hopefully things work out for you. You shouldn't worry about badges. I have had badges removed and reapplied many times over years. Anyone decent would do a great job and you would never know.
#14
Unfortunately, I think they bit off more than they could chew, because nobody — least of all me — could have guessed the paint would be messed up underneath. When a professional MB service department assures you something is perfectly doable, why would you think otherwise? It’s sure as hell not my business.
#15
I have to ask who removed the spoiler? The spoiler is held on with double sided tape that when removed would be a very straight definite line which you do not have there. It looks like they used something to remove the tape residue and that is where the damages are from? I have never seen a removed emblem or accy where the tape caused damages as you have shown especially looking like that.
If they used something like acetone or reducer to remove the tape film that is what caused your damages. Problem is it is now in your paint and the layers have to be removed as someone stated above.It is a chemical reaction and that reacted area has to be removed or it will effect additional layers put on.
If they have their own on site collision shop it should be a non issue but I would not use the same shop that removed the spoiler. With todays paint systems and technology a match should not be an issue at all. Also there will be no corrosion protection lost as again undercoats they use have corrosion properties. Besides that your trunk is not a typical corrosion spot on the vehicle.
Cars are repaired and refinisher every day. If you choose the right shop non of the above noted issues with be a problem. Tell them before you drop it off that you are picky and explain I will be looking for color match, correct orange peel and badge alignment. This way the will go out of their way to assure there are no issues.
Honestly I would put the spoiler back on the car as it can just keep spiraling especially if you have doubts about the shop. Your trunk will always show more mills of paint than the rest of your vehicle.
If they used something like acetone or reducer to remove the tape film that is what caused your damages. Problem is it is now in your paint and the layers have to be removed as someone stated above.It is a chemical reaction and that reacted area has to be removed or it will effect additional layers put on.
If they have their own on site collision shop it should be a non issue but I would not use the same shop that removed the spoiler. With todays paint systems and technology a match should not be an issue at all. Also there will be no corrosion protection lost as again undercoats they use have corrosion properties. Besides that your trunk is not a typical corrosion spot on the vehicle.
Cars are repaired and refinisher every day. If you choose the right shop non of the above noted issues with be a problem. Tell them before you drop it off that you are picky and explain I will be looking for color match, correct orange peel and badge alignment. This way the will go out of their way to assure there are no issues.
Honestly I would put the spoiler back on the car as it can just keep spiraling especially if you have doubts about the shop. Your trunk will always show more mills of paint than the rest of your vehicle.
#16
Looking at it again that is on them. That is caused by what they used to remove the adhesive. Maybe try having a detail shop wet sand the area if your lucky its just etched lightly in the top of the clear coat.
#17
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The paint isn’t my worry. It’s the badges. It seems like so much could go wrong with aligning everything perfectly. I’m guessing that at the factory overseas there is an assembly line that yields perfect badge location on every trunk. Whereas here I think we’ll be relying on someone’s eyeballs and hopefully steady hand.
Last edited by Wolfman; 11-09-2019 at 03:59 PM.
#18
The paint is your issue and if they screw up it can get out of control quickly. They damaged that paint when they attempted to remove that tape. To remove the tape you use a wheel and ether are no signs of it being used?
Badges are not exactly placed with the accuracy you think. They will use yours as a reference. Actually they will most likely use the ghost mark from when yours are removed and just locate the new ones right over it. They come attached to a piece of wax type paper prearranged and spaced. you simply measure and press them on a 5 year old could do it.
Badges are not exactly placed with the accuracy you think. They will use yours as a reference. Actually they will most likely use the ghost mark from when yours are removed and just locate the new ones right over it. They come attached to a piece of wax type paper prearranged and spaced. you simply measure and press them on a 5 year old could do it.
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The paint is your issue and if they screw up it can get out of control quickly. They damaged that paint when they attempted to remove that tape. To remove the tape you use a wheel and ether are no signs of it being used?
Badges are not exactly placed with the accuracy you think. They will use yours as a reference. Actually they will most likely use the ghost mark from when yours are removed and just locate the new ones right over it. They come attached to a piece of wax type paper prearranged and spaced. you simply measure and press them on a 5 year old could do it.
Badges are not exactly placed with the accuracy you think. They will use yours as a reference. Actually they will most likely use the ghost mark from when yours are removed and just locate the new ones right over it. They come attached to a piece of wax type paper prearranged and spaced. you simply measure and press them on a 5 year old could do it.
"We can do it for you but don't recommend it. We won't charge for the removal but if any damage occurs, the risk is on you".
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you should have put the spoiler back. The letters will never ever be as perfect as factory, its a matter of luck. however, regarding the paint, that is the worst part in my onion, anyone who has experience will be able to tell that the trunk is painted if u paint it again regardless of where and what paint u use. The original paint of the car has already cured and was done probably at different conditions, temperatures and applied via robots. am not sure why u r painting the trunk and not just accept ur car as is with the spoiler on it.
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The paint isn’t my worry. It’s the badges. It seems like so much could go wrong with aligning everything perfectly. I’m guessing that at the factory overseas there is an assembly line that yields perfect badge location on every trunk. Whereas here I think we’ll be relying on someone’s eyeballs and hopefully steady hand.
"Badges??? We don't need no stinking badges!"
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#22
Man oh man, none of this is filling me with confidence. I have many more worries now. This paint corrosion sounds dangerous. Anybody who has followed my story getting this car (another thread) knows that I was always pointing out the inadequacies of this dealership. Most people seemed to think it was me, not them. But this is the kind of crap I’ve been dealing with all along: incompetence.
This is a well known New York MB dealership. There’s no reason they should’ve made this mistake — especially when there’s people taking the very same spoilers off with goo gone and g**damn fishing wire!
Basically it seems like I’m screwed here in at least one of several ways. In the end I’m going to be embroiled in a battle with these people to get a whole new trunk put on this car. I just know it.
All I wanted was an S class without a spoiler. Evidently that was far too much to ask along with my other 2-3 main preferences.
Also.. I don’t have a say in where, when or how this is getting done. The car is a lease, first off, and MB is doing this for free, secondly. So the car is going to wherever they usually sent cars for paint work.
This is a well known New York MB dealership. There’s no reason they should’ve made this mistake — especially when there’s people taking the very same spoilers off with goo gone and g**damn fishing wire!
Basically it seems like I’m screwed here in at least one of several ways. In the end I’m going to be embroiled in a battle with these people to get a whole new trunk put on this car. I just know it.
All I wanted was an S class without a spoiler. Evidently that was far too much to ask along with my other 2-3 main preferences.
Also.. I don’t have a say in where, when or how this is getting done. The car is a lease, first off, and MB is doing this for free, secondly. So the car is going to wherever they usually sent cars for paint work.
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No offense, but this is getting to be a bit NUTS! These are very nice cars, but for most who own or lease them, they are everyday drivers. As perfect as the car may be at delivery, it will suffer any number of humiliations in the months and years to come. Rock chips, door dings, colossal bird poop. Unless you tuck this car in a heated garage all year long and never drive it, it will show wear and tear, more than likely, way worse that an expertly repainted trunk lid will ever look. That said, let them paint the lid, put the emblems back or don’t and just enjoy the damn thing. Life is WAY too short to put yourself through hell over a trunk lid on a sedan that you will probably drive for only three years. Have a martini—or three—and chill out. 🍸🍸🍸
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#24
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Man oh man, none of this is filling me with confidence. I have many more worries now. This paint corrosion sounds dangerous. Anybody who has followed my story getting this car (another thread) knows that I was always pointing out the inadequacies of this dealership. Most people seemed to think it was me, not them. But this is the kind of crap I’ve been dealing with all along: incompetence.
This is a well known New York MB dealership. There’s no reason they should’ve made this mistake — especially when there’s people taking the very same spoilers off with goo gone and g**damn fishing wire!
Basically it seems like I’m screwed here in at least one of several ways. In the end I’m going to be embroiled in a battle with these people to get a whole new trunk put on this car. I just know it.
All I wanted was an S class without a spoiler. Evidently that was far too much to ask along with my other 2-3 main preferences.
Also.. I don’t have a say in where, when or how this is getting done. The car is a lease, first off, and MB is doing this for free, secondly. So the car is going to wherever they usually sent cars for paint work.
This is a well known New York MB dealership. There’s no reason they should’ve made this mistake — especially when there’s people taking the very same spoilers off with goo gone and g**damn fishing wire!
Basically it seems like I’m screwed here in at least one of several ways. In the end I’m going to be embroiled in a battle with these people to get a whole new trunk put on this car. I just know it.
All I wanted was an S class without a spoiler. Evidently that was far too much to ask along with my other 2-3 main preferences.
Also.. I don’t have a say in where, when or how this is getting done. The car is a lease, first off, and MB is doing this for free, secondly. So the car is going to wherever they usually sent cars for paint work.