DIY- S65 spark plug replacement with sparkplug mod





TAKE OFF ENGINE COVERS



REMOVE AIR INLET DUCTS

REMOVE AIR FILTER COVERS AND FILTERS. USE A TORX T25 FOR THE LID COVERS AND UNHOOK THE SENSORS BY SQUEEZING THE CONNECTOR.


NEXT REMOVE THE LOWER AIRBOX'S
-THERE ARE 3 E10 INVERTED TORX BOLTS THAT HOLD EACH ONE. ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE THERE IS A HOSE UNDERNEATH THAT JUST PULLS OFF AND ON THE TOP THE HOSE JUST PULLS OUT OF THE HOLDER.





AT THIS POINT, ITS A GOOD IDEA TO STUFF A RAG OR TOWEL INTO THE TURBO INLET SO YOU DON'T DROP ANYTHING IN THERE AND HAVE REALLY BIG PROBLEMS.

NEXT YOU NEED TO UNBOLT THE INTERCOOLERS. THERE ARE 3 E10 INVERTED TORX BOLTS ON EACH(THE ONE IN THE BACK IS A TIGHT FIT SO BE CAREFULL NOT TO DROP IT.
ALSO NEED TO LOSEN ALL OF THE HOSE CLAMPS ON THE INTERCOOLERS AND INTAKE "Y"




YOU DON'T NEED TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE INTERCOOLERS, YOU CAN USE A WIRE OR BUNGEE TO HOLD THEM UP AND OUT OF YOUR WAY. TO REMOVE THE PASSENGER SIDE INTERCOOLER, YOU MUST TAKE OFF WHAT APPEARS TO BE THE MAP SENSOR WITH 2 E8 INVERTED TORX BOLTS



YOU CAN NOW REMOVE THE OUTLET PIPE OFF OF THE TURBO HOUSING. THERE IS 1 E10 INVERTED TORX AND A "U" CLAMP. REMOVE BOTH AND THE PIPE JUST WORKS IT WAY LOOSE.



YOU CAN NOW UNBOLT THE COILPACKS. THERE ARE 7 BOLTS TOTAL. ALL ARE E10 TORX. UNBOLT THEM ALL AND UNCLIP THE HARNESS AND PULL IT AROUND THE FRONT

YOU MAY NOW REMOVE THE COIL PACK. YOU MAY HAVE TO USE A PRYBAR TO PULL UP ON THE MOUNTING POINTS AS ITS IN THERE TIGHT. BE CAREFULL!!! THEY WILL COME OUT JUST USE LIGHT FORCE.




BE CAREFUL AS SOME OF THE RED BOOTS MAY STAY INSIDE THE SPARK PLUG HOLES. JUST USE A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AND PULL THESE OUT AND REINSTALL THEM INTO THE COILPACK BEFORE REINSTALLING THE COIL PACK.

WHEN REMOVING THE PASSENGER SIDE, YOU MUST UNPLUG THE VACUUM LINE AND MOVE IT OUT OF THE WAY.

ALSO REMOVE THE COOLER LINE BRACKET ON THE FRONT


ONCE YOU GET ALL OF THE BOOTS OUT, YOU CAN REMOVE ALL OF THE PLUGS OR ONE AT A TIME DEPENDING ON YOUR PREFERENCE. NONE OF THEM ARE TOO DIFFICULT TO GET TO, I ONLY USED 2 DIFFERENT EXTENSIONS.

ONCE YOU GET ALL OF THE PLUGS REPLACED, CAREFULLY REINSTALL THE COIL PACKS. AGAIN, JUST CONSTANT LIGHT PRESSURE AND THEY WILL GO BACK IN.
THEN REVERSE ALL THE PROCESSES
-REINSTALL CHARGE PIPES
-REINSTALL INTERCOOLERS
-REINSTALL FILTER BOXES
-REINSTALL FILTERS/LIDS
-REINSTALL SCOOPS AND ENGINE COVERS
Just like to emphasise how careful you have to be when removing the coil packs. They're really fragile and expensive, and have to come out a millimetre at a time. Needs patience.
Also watch out for all the sensors.
Nice job - did the plugs make any difference?
Nick
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Plugs didn't make a noticable difference, but there wasn't a problem before.
Benz- i was planning to replace them if they were damaged, but they were all in good shape.
Motor mounts are next... pretty nervous about this one, its a pretty big job and i'm determined not to pull the motor.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG


https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...t-install.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-...ml#post5759593
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...sl-models.html
Nick


Nick


Nick
I'm looking for a little more DIY pointers. like:
-do you need to lift the motor and/or lower subframe?
-do i need to remove the downpipes?
-do i need to remove or move any ABC lines?
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Rich
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-sl63-amg-sl65-amg-r230/328038-diy-motor-mounts-v12-sl-models.html
Just for clarity, are you talking about the mounts on the N/A V12 or the TT V12?
Is this how you do it?:
https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-cl65-amg-cl63-amg-w215-w216/510432-replaced-engine-trans-mounts-2005-cl65.html#post5759593
Cheers, Nick
Merry Christmas
Nick
As another note, with regard to the red coil insulators, ALWAYS REPLACE THEM ANY TIME THE COILS ARE REMOVED. They are the only thing that prevents voltage leaks and if they have any scratches or cracks, they are compromised. If the voltage leaks(70k volts), then it typically finds its ground through those stainless towers, essentially shorting the coil packs. That is a very expensive ground cable.........
Nick
The plugs mentioned by the OP are copper. I don't like copper because they wear out too fast. I don't want to handle these coil packs any more than I absolutely have to.
I contacted NGK about iridium plugs in the same heat range as the copper NGK 4644. This is what they sent:
NGK 2667 Iridium IX
NGK 92400 Ruthenium HX
These plugs incidentally are the same ones specified for these cars:
ASTON MARTIN DB7 1997-1998
AUDI R8 2011-2017
AUDI RS5 2013-2015
AUDI RS6 2003-2004
AUDI S4 1992-1994
AUDI S6 1995-1997
AUDI TT 2008-2015
BMW ALPINA B7 2007-2008
PORSCHE 911 2003-2008
PORSCHE BOXSTER 2005-2008
PORSCHE CAYENNE 2003-2006
PORSCHE CAYMAN 2006-2008
I have a set of the Iridium plugs on order. Looking forward to putting them in!
Just to reiterate the point, 1 step colder plugs are recommended when running a tune with high boost. Do not install these plugs if you are running factory software. Even a mild tune should probably stick with OE plugs. Best answer is to contact your tuner to get a specific recommendation.









