SL/R230: DIY: Brake Job (Front & Rear) Question
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
DIY: Brake Job (Front & Rear) Question
Hello,
I am getting ready to do the front and rear brakes on my '03 SL500. I have new front rotors, ceramic pads, wear sensors, MB hi-temp grease, and brake fluid.
Are there any secrets? Should I disconnect batteries? After finishing, will I have to turn steering wheel from side to side to clear faults? Is this going to be an easy job?
Thanks in advance.
I am getting ready to do the front and rear brakes on my '03 SL500. I have new front rotors, ceramic pads, wear sensors, MB hi-temp grease, and brake fluid.
Are there any secrets? Should I disconnect batteries? After finishing, will I have to turn steering wheel from side to side to clear faults? Is this going to be an easy job?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
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2003 SL500
It's as difficult as any other brake job. Just remember to unplug the SBC plug in the engine bay. The hardest thing was taking the rotors off since they were seized on the hub. I tried spraying it with rust remover, pounded at it, took a torch to it. I ended up putting bolts through the back where the calipers bolt on and tightened using a nut. That popped the rotors off within seconds. Once those are off, same ole same ole.
#3
Member
Hello,
I am getting ready to do the front and rear brakes on my '03 SL500. I have new front rotors, ceramic pads, wear sensors, MB hi-temp grease, and brake fluid.
Are there any secrets? Should I disconnect batteries? After finishing, will I have to turn steering wheel from side to side to clear faults? Is this going to be an easy job?
Thanks in advance.
I am getting ready to do the front and rear brakes on my '03 SL500. I have new front rotors, ceramic pads, wear sensors, MB hi-temp grease, and brake fluid.
Are there any secrets? Should I disconnect batteries? After finishing, will I have to turn steering wheel from side to side to clear faults? Is this going to be an easy job?
Thanks in advance.
#4
Banned
Hey Vince. You can buy the R230 Tech DVD from MBUSA for about $50. That will include the step-by-step procedure and pictures you are asking for.
I replaced my rear pads two weeks ago. Very easy.
I replaced my rear pads two weeks ago. Very easy.
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Arizona
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SL55AMG, Ferrari 348, Ferrari Testarossa, Ferrari F40, Ferrari Mondial t, Ducati 916, Indycar
The R230 disc is invaluable when trying to diagnose and work on these cars.
As stated above, the big thing to remember is to unplug the SBC sensor, or you can turn the system off if you have a STAR system.
The STAR systems are a little pricey, but they are a huge help with so many different items and systems... from lowering the car to diagnosing every component. I have had a number of clients buy STAR systems from us, and use them for several years and sell them on for what they paid for it when they sell their car.
Good luck with the brake job, and did I say to disconnect the SBC plug?
As stated above, the big thing to remember is to unplug the SBC sensor, or you can turn the system off if you have a STAR system.
The STAR systems are a little pricey, but they are a huge help with so many different items and systems... from lowering the car to diagnosing every component. I have had a number of clients buy STAR systems from us, and use them for several years and sell them on for what they paid for it when they sell their car.
Good luck with the brake job, and did I say to disconnect the SBC plug?
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#8
Senior Member
Zimmerman brakes have a good reputation.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I went with www.partsgeek.com because their website specified the part number based on my vehicle's VIN -- there were two possible front rotor parts for the R230, and ordering the correct one made me feel better. The rotors arrived quickly and they look identical to OE.
#13
Junior Member
SBC Sensor
The R230 disc is invaluable when trying to diagnose and work on these cars.
As stated above, the big thing to remember is to unplug the SBC sensor, or you can turn the system off if you have a STAR system.
The STAR systems are a little pricey, but they are a huge help with so many different items and systems... from lowering the car to diagnosing every component. I have had a number of clients buy STAR systems from us, and use them for several years and sell them on for what they paid for it when they sell their car.
Good luck with the brake job, and did I say to disconnect the SBC plug?
As stated above, the big thing to remember is to unplug the SBC sensor, or you can turn the system off if you have a STAR system.
The STAR systems are a little pricey, but they are a huge help with so many different items and systems... from lowering the car to diagnosing every component. I have had a number of clients buy STAR systems from us, and use them for several years and sell them on for what they paid for it when they sell their car.
Good luck with the brake job, and did I say to disconnect the SBC plug?
#16
Junior Member
Brake Job
Are you saying I don't need that Star system to replace my pads ??? I can just disconnect the SBC connector ??? What about this air getting into the system thing ??? I've done my own brakes on my '97 SL 320, with no problem... That .pdf doc looks scary...
#17
MBworld Guru
Do not just disconnect SBC to replace your brakes! The system needs to re-calibrate to the new pads/rotors. My understanding is that the procedure I posted above will do this, but I can't promise that. I always just uses SDS and I know it does it. There's a guy on the other benz world that changed his brakes without deactivating and he ended up having to go to a shop with SDS to clear errors.
#19
Senior Member
I assume you are only going to change the pads and rotors, not flushing the brake fluid, only top op.
You don't need unplug the SBC, and you do not require using Xentry or STAR diagnosis.
Unplug the battery in the boot before you start working, do your work, connect again. While the battery is disconnected, the cars electronics don't recognize any things you do, and you don't get any error because you disconnect and reconnect the wear sensors on the pads.
I have done the brake job several times on both my previous SL55 and my current car, only disconnecting the battery, and pumping the brake pedal to hard feel, before connecting the battery again. No problems, no errors.
If you disconnect the SBC, chances are that the car recognize it, and you have to erase an error after plugging it again, plus the errors from the wear sensors.
Furthermore, I have bad Experience with disconnecting and reconnecting components, while the battery is connected.
You don't need unplug the SBC, and you do not require using Xentry or STAR diagnosis.
Unplug the battery in the boot before you start working, do your work, connect again. While the battery is disconnected, the cars electronics don't recognize any things you do, and you don't get any error because you disconnect and reconnect the wear sensors on the pads.
I have done the brake job several times on both my previous SL55 and my current car, only disconnecting the battery, and pumping the brake pedal to hard feel, before connecting the battery again. No problems, no errors.
If you disconnect the SBC, chances are that the car recognize it, and you have to erase an error after plugging it again, plus the errors from the wear sensors.
Furthermore, I have bad Experience with disconnecting and reconnecting components, while the battery is connected.
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#20
Newbie
Do you mean disconnect the accessories battery?
I assume you are only going to change the pads and rotors, not flushing the brake fluid, only top op.
You don't need unplug the SBC, and you do not require using Xentry or STAR diagnosis.
Unplug the battery in the boot before you start working, do your work, connect again. While the battery is disconnected, the cars electronics don't recognize any things you do, and you don't get any error because you disconnect and reconnect the wear sensors on the pads.
I have done the brake job several times on both my previous SL55 and my current car, only disconnecting the battery, and pumping the brake pedal to hard feel, before connecting the battery again. No problems, no errors.
If you disconnect the SBC, chances are that the car recognize it, and you have to erase an error after plugging it again, plus the errors from the wear sensors.
Furthermore, I have bad Experience with disconnecting and reconnecting components, while the battery is connected.
You don't need unplug the SBC, and you do not require using Xentry or STAR diagnosis.
Unplug the battery in the boot before you start working, do your work, connect again. While the battery is disconnected, the cars electronics don't recognize any things you do, and you don't get any error because you disconnect and reconnect the wear sensors on the pads.
I have done the brake job several times on both my previous SL55 and my current car, only disconnecting the battery, and pumping the brake pedal to hard feel, before connecting the battery again. No problems, no errors.
If you disconnect the SBC, chances are that the car recognize it, and you have to erase an error after plugging it again, plus the errors from the wear sensors.
Furthermore, I have bad Experience with disconnecting and reconnecting components, while the battery is connected.
Am on the other side of the pond here... when you say "boot" is that what us yanks know as the trunk which houses the accessories battery in the rear of the car?
And if so, what procedures need to be done when the accessories battery is reconnected? Anything that needs to be cycled or procedures to relearn how the accessories operate... for example the power windows, roof, trunk (boot) latch, etc etc etc
Also, do we also need to disconnect the starter battery under the hood (or I guess bonnet) ?
Thanks
George
#21
Senior Member
SL_charge
Am on the other side of the pond here... when you say "boot" is that what us yanks know as the trunk which houses the accessories battery in the rear of the car?
And if so, what procedures need to be done when the accessories battery is reconnected? Anything that needs to be cycled or procedures to relearn how the accessories operate... for example the power windows, roof, trunk (boot) latch, etc etc etc
Also, do we also need to disconnect the starter battery under the hood (or I guess bonnet) ?
Thanks
George
Am on the other side of the pond here... when you say "boot" is that what us yanks know as the trunk which houses the accessories battery in the rear of the car?
And if so, what procedures need to be done when the accessories battery is reconnected? Anything that needs to be cycled or procedures to relearn how the accessories operate... for example the power windows, roof, trunk (boot) latch, etc etc etc
Also, do we also need to disconnect the starter battery under the hood (or I guess bonnet) ?
Thanks
George
Yes the "boot" is the Trunk, and yes the accessories battery is the battery in question.
On the SL, the windows have to be realigned, meaning, doors closed, roll em down, roll em up, let go of the buttons, the windows will go down a bit, roll em up again.
No further action is needed.
You will get a ABS and or ESP alarm, but it will disappear as soon as you have driven half a mile.
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#22
Newbie
Hi George.
Yes the "boot" is the Trunk, and yes the accessories battery is the battery in question.
On the SL, the windows have to be realigned, meaning, doors closed, roll em down, roll em up, let go of the buttons, the windows will go down a bit, roll em up again.
No further action is needed.
You will get a ABS and or ESP alarm, but it will disappear as soon as you have driven half a mile.
Yes the "boot" is the Trunk, and yes the accessories battery is the battery in question.
On the SL, the windows have to be realigned, meaning, doors closed, roll em down, roll em up, let go of the buttons, the windows will go down a bit, roll em up again.
No further action is needed.
You will get a ABS and or ESP alarm, but it will disappear as soon as you have driven half a mile.
That is something I can definitely handle without having a SDS tool.
All I have is a iCarsoft MB II code reader, recently acquired from the MBWorld "maketplace" .
Thank you sir
#23
Senior Member
The following 2 users liked this post by SLcharge:
user 4637262 (10-14-2022),
JupiterJim (01-12-2020)
#24
Super Member
Disconnect the accessory battery from the trunk, unplug SBC, proceed to change pads and rotors as you would on a Corolla. Pump brakes until they have pressure and is firm again, connect SBC, connect trunk battery, go for test drive.
Simple.
Simple.
The following 2 users liked this post by FxFormat:
georgewny (01-12-2020),
JupiterJim (01-12-2020)
#25
PM me if you want before you go into the wrong direction with DAS / Xentry Diagnostics Choice
"The Bitterness of Poor Quality Remains Long After the Sweetness of Low Price is Forgotten"
Last edited by pmercury; 01-16-2020 at 06:47 AM.
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