SL/R230: Are the anti-sway bars a must after coil-over conversions?



I have read several posts where anti-sway bars are installed after coil-over conversion. I did the coil over conversion and no anti-sway bar yet.....but I have noticed that the vehicle has very little tilt on the turns....I am sure it is due to the low center of gravity and plus the short travel of the struts. My struts are Bilstein and they have a 3.5" travel, which means 7" height change at the wheel. So in the worst case you will have 7" lift differential which translates to an angle of incline to be around 5-1/2 degrees...not too bad..! Now, unless you are a racer and want to take fast turns, I kind of agree you spend the $$$ for anti-sway bars....otherwise don't worry about these 6 degrees of tilt...! Would like to hear any insides on the subject..!
Your setup may be different, because it utilizes factory struts and springs, you may not have as much spring rate as the aftermarket coilover.
So in answer to your question I'd say no the sway bars are not essential. Also those that say that 350 bars don't fit under any V8, I can assure you they are wrong, they do fit on the SL500 without spacers or mods.
Last edited by Keith Noon; Dec 24, 2021 at 07:24 PM.
The car does drive and turn well without the sway bars, not any terribly noticable body roll.
But yesterday I ran into the exact situation that proved to me the value of installing the sway bars. I was on a long, curving freeway ramp that turns out to have a pretty big dip near the end of the curve where the roadway also levels out. And yes, I may have been exceeding the speed limit just a bit
..........So, the right side suspension is already loaded pretty hard, then I hit this dip. Felt a pretty hard bump from the right rear and the car was a bit unsettled for just a fraction of a second, but was never any where near danger. Took a quick look at the car on arrival at my destination and could see where the right rear tire had contacted the plastic fender liner. No contact in the front.So the lesson is when you get a car in a long curve with bumps in it, that is when you'll really see where swaybars are good to have. But I can also see where if you don't ever drive aggressively you could get by without them.
The other lesson is that public roadways are not built to racetrack standards
. That long, sweeping ramp may look like it'd be fun to hit with some speed, but try to resist the urge if you're not very familiar with the road 'cause it could be hiding a pretty big surprise for you.It'll be some months before I install my sway bars. In the meantime, I'll still be having fun with my car, just taking it a bit easier on those long sweepers.




My two layman's cents about the consequences of eliminating sway bars from a good design:
1- the more the struts are allowed to fully respond to changing load, the more steering behavior will be effected. A more flexible or absent front torsion bar will induce more oversteer. For the rear bar: more understeer.
2- installing one bar and omitting the other would introduce uneven stress in the car's body. Your driving attitude, the road and the over dimensioning in the design would decide whether you are causing friction (movement) between parts that were designed to stay put (think of anti corrosion coating failure, fatigue).
Anyhow, the rigidity of a design is working all the time, not just in extreme situations.
3- a dramatic result of altering a car's OEM set up like this, probably occurs during an unexpected incident/manouvre. ESP was endlessly tuned to the original set up, maybe it will respond adequately to non spec behaviour of the car, but I wouldn't bet my wife on it. Likewise, driving on under pressure tires or with only one brake working (I did that in a W113 I had just bought, with three seized claws...) is not too much of a problem, as long as traffic rolls as expected. I was aware, over-over cautious and had no trouble. But in a sudden situation demanding more of the rig's capabilities things could have turned out very nasty. Our R230's are heavy and powerful cars, so stay safe and think twice about any structural change.
Okay, shoot me - I'm sure I am missing a point or two. There's more experienced folks around here and we all like to learn!
Last edited by Frederick NL; Dec 26, 2021 at 08:12 AM.
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Then, for me, the distance between inner wheel to outer wheel is about 180 cm at a max difference in high at about 18 cm: 10% = 5,7° angle of incline and time to worry, for me.
Last edited by AndreasHannover; Dec 27, 2021 at 04:53 AM.
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Softer springs without anti sway bars will roll more than a car with stiffer or more spring rate. Roll center will affect this as well. Maybe my coilovers have stiffer rates than others have, and I have the car lowered 1” or so.
I don’t consider the r230 a handling machine, nor powerful in the early 500 versions. I was happy with the coilover sans bars, but like I said they don’t hurt .
Probably a bigger deal if you haven’t actually driven one with coilovers and no sway bar, which I would guess you haven’t.
I’m not saying it isn’t going to improve the handling, but the body roll is minimal without them. Again this is my car, other cars with other coilovers may differ.
Last edited by cdk4219; Dec 27, 2021 at 07:46 AM.




https://low-offset.com/workshop/sway-bars-explained/
http://speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/
Hope it helps
Probably a bigger deal if you haven’t actually driven one with coilovers and no sway bar, which I would guess you haven’t.
If a car without sway bar is working with stiff suspension, how about driving comfort then? I had to drive an older SL with Bilstein B6 instead of comfy B4, that was a torture, for me.
If a car without sway bar is working with stiff suspension, how about driving comfort then? I had to drive an older SL with Bilstein B6 instead of comfy B4, that was a torture, for me.
If a car without sway bar is working with stiff suspension, how about driving comfort then? I had to drive an older SL with Bilstein B6 instead of comfy B4, that was a torture, for me.
I can’t speak about standard suspension and no sway bars, but can with coilover lowered 1” and no sway bars. It’s very compliant and reassuring to drive. I’ll let you know when I rip the
ABC off of my sl55 and replace it with coilovers how that works without sways.
If the ABC system wasn’t such a bad design and problem, there wouldn’t be coilover conversions and discussions about this, and I we wouldn’t be talking about this. There’s a reason why these cars are depreciation monsters.
ABC off of my sl55 and replace it with coilovers how that works without sways.
If the ABC system wasn’t such a bad design and problem, there wouldn’t be coilover conversions and discussions about this, and I we wouldn’t be talking about this. There’s a reason why these cars are depreciation monsters.
increasing the cost and aggravation.
All of the Mercedes I have owner with hydraulic suspension from 126 to r129 to the 230 have had issues with lower mileage. I’m not a great fan of air suspension either, but it’s less problematic for me.
My sl55 has 43,000 miles on it and I have flushed the fluid twice, The car will drop corners sometimes in less than 30 minutes, and when in park and running it slowly raises up to full extend on all four corners. It’s really disappointing and unnecessary, but realistically why these cars are not worth much.
Coilovers may not be for everyone, but maintaining a flawed design when there is a simpler solution isn’t for me. No more chf11s flushes at $20 quart and concerning myself with expensive parts replacements.
It should be noted that my cars are lowered so the ABC ride is diminished from stock height. The coilover aren’t much of a comfort change. Cars with stock ride height may have different results.








Any vehicle to be driven in a non-straight line above Miss Daisy's speed requires an stabilizing system of some kind. Either electronic or mechanical a system is required. Sway bars are just a means to a purpose, i.e. stability. If there is a mechanism to inform one side what the other is doing and actively react to it in accordance with the dynamics of the vehicle, including damping/braking systems, the vehicle should be safe to drive. Attempting to do so w/o OEM specifications, it is a major undertaking, and w/o the deep pockets of the manufacturing for all around testing, a half baked project.
If during the conversion from ABC to whatever system is chosen, the communication path from left <-> right is broken, it MUST be restored somehow, electronic with sensors, neumatic or else, i.e sway bars.
Attempting to ignore a stabilizing system, to save some money, it is just looking for trouble. It is no my vehicle, so do as you please but consider there are other on the highway as well
My 2c
Last edited by cdk4219; Dec 28, 2021 at 09:01 PM.
i couldn't care less about these elites who shove it down our mouths about the Coilovers every chance they get. Read above just once.........can we have a discussion about sway bars and not hear from the porcupines that is the American Way
Step up Fredrick......you made the claim. you start a very interesting subject which I think is full of hot air...
How about hollow bars instead of solid bars lowering unsprung weight?
discussion ???


