Sprint Booster where to by other then SLKfans
#1
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Sprint Booster where to by other then SLKfans
I am kind of bummed one of the first mods I ordered was the Sprint booster. After hearing how great the mod was I had to have it. I found a link to SLKFans website. I paid through Paypal (only option) I paid on the 16th and I have heard NOTHING! I have sent him emails, tried to PM (Box full) No reply. Even if the guy is on vacation or traveling for work this is a BS excuse. You can not blow customers off for 2 weeks. I Put a dispute in with Paypal 5 days ago and he has not responded. I just escalated the dispute, maybe it will get his attention? I like supporting the little guys that do these types of sales on the side but this is ridiculous.
When I get my money refunded which vendor do you guys recommend?
When I get my money refunded which vendor do you guys recommend?
#3
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Why do you say that? I have thread after thread stating how great the SB was. Are you saying are the reviews are BS?
#4
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No, I actually am friends with some that got it. I'm not saying they are liars. What I am saying is that you need to take a critical look at what you are doing and what you expectations are vs reality. Notice I asked if you drive an E55? Assuming you do, here is my personal take.
I don't know if you understand the basics of the sprint booster, so excuse my quick background info:
The cars use throttle by wire, which simply means that you are mashing an electronic actuator and not literally pulling a wire. The OEM system is what it is, so we will consider it "linear" to that system and only look at the changes between the sprintbooster and the use of the throttle with the OEM setup.
If you see the attached graph. All the Spring booster does is take your throttle input and multiplies it by a factor. You will see that at low percent mashings, you get a higher "kick" from the engine. However, once you have pushed in the pedal to about 50%, you are already maxing the power of the car.
It literally reduces the "working" range of the throttle, making the car even harder to modulate during spirited driving. As I said before, if all you do is drive with the throttle between zero applied and 50% applied, then you will love this thing. But, if you bought an E55 NOT to floor, then ask your self why you bout the car?
I don't know if you understand the basics of the sprint booster, so excuse my quick background info:
The cars use throttle by wire, which simply means that you are mashing an electronic actuator and not literally pulling a wire. The OEM system is what it is, so we will consider it "linear" to that system and only look at the changes between the sprintbooster and the use of the throttle with the OEM setup.
If you see the attached graph. All the Spring booster does is take your throttle input and multiplies it by a factor. You will see that at low percent mashings, you get a higher "kick" from the engine. However, once you have pushed in the pedal to about 50%, you are already maxing the power of the car.
It literally reduces the "working" range of the throttle, making the car even harder to modulate during spirited driving. As I said before, if all you do is drive with the throttle between zero applied and 50% applied, then you will love this thing. But, if you bought an E55 NOT to floor, then ask your self why you bout the car?
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#6
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Do you drive an E55? If so, I recommend you learn your lesson and save the money for a real mod, rather than a gimmic.
It literally reduces the "working" range of the throttle, making the car even harder to modulate during spirited driving.
#7
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I have one in each car. Lots of fun, no regrets.
I got both of mine from SLKfans. He's doesn't respond to emails very well, but they were both delivered. If you only ordered on the 16th then it's doubtful they would be ready yet. He has to order them from the manuf. then when they come in he sends them out. The manuf. apparently doesn't keep stock of them so it takes weeks for him to get them and another week to get from him to us from Singapore via DHL. The 1st one I ordered took a month and the 2nd one was 3 weeks.
I got both of mine from SLKfans. He's doesn't respond to emails very well, but they were both delivered. If you only ordered on the 16th then it's doubtful they would be ready yet. He has to order them from the manuf. then when they come in he sends them out. The manuf. apparently doesn't keep stock of them so it takes weeks for him to get them and another week to get from him to us from Singapore via DHL. The 1st one I ordered took a month and the 2nd one was 3 weeks.
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#8
Try this link:
https://mbworld.org/forums/vendor-group-buys/184046-cks-performance-offering-sprint-booster-discount.html
My question is does the Sprint Booster remove the lag time when you floor it? For instance in traffic, if you want to jump ahead to another lane and you floor the car, it takes a moment for the SC to kick in and the car to deliver full power. Does the Sprint Booster remove that wait?
https://mbworld.org/forums/vendor-group-buys/184046-cks-performance-offering-sprint-booster-discount.html
My question is does the Sprint Booster remove the lag time when you floor it? For instance in traffic, if you want to jump ahead to another lane and you floor the car, it takes a moment for the SC to kick in and the car to deliver full power. Does the Sprint Booster remove that wait?
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Try this link:
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=184046
My question is does the Sprint Booster remove the lag time when you floor it? For instance in traffic, if you want to jump ahead to another lane and you floor the car, it takes a moment for the SC to kick in and the car to deliver full power. Does the Sprint Booster remove that wait?
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=184046
My question is does the Sprint Booster remove the lag time when you floor it? For instance in traffic, if you want to jump ahead to another lane and you floor the car, it takes a moment for the SC to kick in and the car to deliver full power. Does the Sprint Booster remove that wait?
#11
I see you feel very strongly about this Jangy! Thanks for the info.
I run into trouble in that when I floor it to slip into a hole in traffic, I expect the full power. The car starts out at an OK rate, and then kicks in. Well by the time the kick happens the car is too close to the driver in front and I have to hit the break hard and quick. It's like a bucking bronco. My wife keeps saying "why are bucking the car?" Is there something to be done to get ALL power instantly?
I run into trouble in that when I floor it to slip into a hole in traffic, I expect the full power. The car starts out at an OK rate, and then kicks in. Well by the time the kick happens the car is too close to the driver in front and I have to hit the break hard and quick. It's like a bucking bronco. My wife keeps saying "why are bucking the car?" Is there something to be done to get ALL power instantly?
#12
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I see you feel very strongly about this Jangy! Thanks for the info.
I run into trouble in that when I floor it to slip into a hole in traffic, I expect the full power. The car starts out at an OK rate, and then kicks in. Well by the time the kick happens the car is too close to the driver in front and I have to hit the break hard and quick. It's like a bucking bronco. My wife keeps saying "why are bucking the car?" Is there something to be done to get ALL power instantly?
I run into trouble in that when I floor it to slip into a hole in traffic, I expect the full power. The car starts out at an OK rate, and then kicks in. Well by the time the kick happens the car is too close to the driver in front and I have to hit the break hard and quick. It's like a bucking bronco. My wife keeps saying "why are bucking the car?" Is there something to be done to get ALL power instantly?
YES!! I am actually planning on replacing my tq convertor with the 3 disc composite clutch setup. it will take a little from my gas mileage, but the response will be instant. the other thing that people may not like is lets say you are cruising donw that highway and just feather the throttle. Right now, the car stays smooth, since the converter never locks up by the time you release the gas. Once that "buffer" is taken away, your car will seem more jerky, which I do not mind. I want responsive.
Last point, keep in mind that our SCs are clutch driven and NOT always on. You can also play with that, although I am not there, yet.
#14
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The button at the bottom of the gas pedal doesn't actually do anything. There are no wires or anything connected to it. From a mechanical and electrical standpoint it does nothing at all. The sensor in the gas pedal is most likely programmed in such a way that if the pedal is depressed past a point it reacts and the dummy button is just there to let the driver know what the point is.
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Just pm/email me from time to time to see what is up. You know we are doing a few things, but I'm done with ruffling the sponsor feathers. I never intended any of my projects to either hurt their business or make me money. I simply believe there is a niche that isn't being filled and so I will. Those that get threatened by it can do as they please.
p.s. thanks for the help.
p.s. thanks for the help.
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The button at the bottom of the gas pedal doesn't actually do anything. There are no wires or anything connected to it. From a mechanical and electrical standpoint it does nothing at all. The sensor in the gas pedal is most likely programmed in such a way that if the pedal is depressed past a point it reacts and the dummy button is just there to let the driver know what the point is.
#17
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I see you feel very strongly about this Jangy! Thanks for the info.
I run into trouble in that when I floor it to slip into a hole in traffic, I expect the full power. The car starts out at an OK rate, and then kicks in. Well by the time the kick happens the car is too close to the driver in front and I have to hit the break hard and quick. It's like a bucking bronco. My wife keeps saying "why are bucking the car?" Is there something to be done to get ALL power instantly?
I run into trouble in that when I floor it to slip into a hole in traffic, I expect the full power. The car starts out at an OK rate, and then kicks in. Well by the time the kick happens the car is too close to the driver in front and I have to hit the break hard and quick. It's like a bucking bronco. My wife keeps saying "why are bucking the car?" Is there something to be done to get ALL power instantly?
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I think in your case a sprintbooster will help that. After you get it you'll need to adjust to it. Once that happens you'll find the car is smoother because it reacts more quickly instead of the delay so you always know when and what to expect from it. That's been my observation with it anyway. It will take some time for your foot to adjust to the new pedal, at first it will feel more jerky as you're used to giving it more throttle in order to get the reaction you're used to, now it requires much less and is more predictable.
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#22
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Yes, it's already been established that's all it does. You also have to remember the adaptive programming the car has as well. If it thinks you're always driving more agressively because of the additional throttle input then it will stay in a more agressive mode rather than drift around as you sit in traffic vs. do more spirited runs.
Last edited by bfnnrgn; 04-01-2007 at 09:34 PM.
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Yes, it's already been established that's all it does. You also have to remember the adaptive programming the car has as well. If it thinks you're always driving more agressively because of the additional throttle input then it will stay in a more agressive mode rather than drift around as you sit in traffic vs. do more spirited runs.
I drive mine like I stole it. All day everyday.
#25
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You don't take the button out, but it's attached to the pedal and the entire assembly has to come out when you install it. You can then examine it. It's a thin piece of plastic and once it's off you can see there's nothing attached to the button. No wires, it sits there all by itself. A socket wrench and 5 minutes and you can see it for yourself.