06-15-2015, 07:50 PM
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- Mercedes Benz E Class AMG: How to Replace Spark Plug Wires
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
DIY Valve Cover Gaskets, Plugs, and Plug Wires
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bjbellz (03-21-2019)
03-25-2014, 02:52 AM
#52
Factory instructions: Spark plugs / Improved gas mileage
I bought my 2006 E55 second hand, it just clocked over 100k miles. I noticed that I was slowly getting worse gas mileage the past 6 months.
I changed out the 16 spark plugs (OEM NGK ILFR6A, about $7.50/each on eBay--exactly the same as the original iridium factory plugs I removed except much cheaper and no MB insignia stamp (which of course, makes the plugs 2-3x more expensive)) over the weekend. For a first timer, and being ultra careful and taking my time, it took me a little over 4 hours to do the job.
Nonetheless, I finally changed out the plugs with factory replacement NGK spark plugs and the biggest improvement is MUCH better gas mileage. Based on my trip computer, I was getting 13.7mpg (80% city driving) over the past year of accumulated driving. After my spark plug change, and in the 4 hours logged driving time since, I am currently getting 16.0 mpg average (as of now, but will report later as I accumulate more miles) and getting better throttle response and a little smoother idle. Based on my experience, I would change out the plugs at 80k intervals.
I've posted the factory instructions for future reference on the W211 E55 AMG spark plug maintenance. A few notes for the spark plug service:
1. For ease, get the swivel factory spark plug tool (MB part 112 589 01 09 00) ($50). This will come in extremely handy for the driver's side rear most spark plugs. I already had a Gear Wrench 80546 (like the 80404 but has a built-in 3" extension) on hand, and while to was good for most of the work, it was near impossible to use for the left side rear most spark plug as the extension was too long, so the short MB factory socket worked out better for that application. I already bought the MB part so I used it, but the Gear Wrench 80404 appears to be very similar in reach and spec, and much cheaper. Have different short 3/8" extensions on hand as well.
2. Have handy a bunch of small zip ties (for securing the coil packs to the wiring harness as you'll cut the original zip ties).
3. When removing the central rubber hose that connects the air boxes to the main intake, make sure you push the upper tab (what you can see) and the lower tabs outward before trying to pull it out or you'll break the tab(s).
4. Get a "Mercedes spark plug wire removal tool." Many brands, but they are basically open ended 17mm crescent wrenches that have a offset at the end. You can find Youtube videos on how to use them--just place over the metal ends of the spark plug boot and using your valve cover for leverage, the boots easily pop out. About $24 shipped. Will prevent you from breaking the wires if you pulled them by hand. An ebay seller (sg-motorsports)is selling the Mercedes spark plug wire tool and swivel spark plug tool (similar item as item 1 above) for $39--would be worth it.
5. As aluminum cylinder heads can be easily damaged, hand tighten the spark plugs as much as you can. Then for the final tightening, make sure you have a 3/8" torque wrench that can do 18.5 foot-pounds (25 N-m) torque.
I changed out the 16 spark plugs (OEM NGK ILFR6A, about $7.50/each on eBay--exactly the same as the original iridium factory plugs I removed except much cheaper and no MB insignia stamp (which of course, makes the plugs 2-3x more expensive)) over the weekend. For a first timer, and being ultra careful and taking my time, it took me a little over 4 hours to do the job.
Nonetheless, I finally changed out the plugs with factory replacement NGK spark plugs and the biggest improvement is MUCH better gas mileage. Based on my trip computer, I was getting 13.7mpg (80% city driving) over the past year of accumulated driving. After my spark plug change, and in the 4 hours logged driving time since, I am currently getting 16.0 mpg average (as of now, but will report later as I accumulate more miles) and getting better throttle response and a little smoother idle. Based on my experience, I would change out the plugs at 80k intervals.
I've posted the factory instructions for future reference on the W211 E55 AMG spark plug maintenance. A few notes for the spark plug service:
1. For ease, get the swivel factory spark plug tool (MB part 112 589 01 09 00) ($50). This will come in extremely handy for the driver's side rear most spark plugs. I already had a Gear Wrench 80546 (like the 80404 but has a built-in 3" extension) on hand, and while to was good for most of the work, it was near impossible to use for the left side rear most spark plug as the extension was too long, so the short MB factory socket worked out better for that application. I already bought the MB part so I used it, but the Gear Wrench 80404 appears to be very similar in reach and spec, and much cheaper. Have different short 3/8" extensions on hand as well.
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80404-8-Inch-Swivel-Socket/dp/B0014ZXTTY">
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80404-8-Inch-Swivel-Socket/dp/B0014ZXTTY" /> http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80404-8-Inch-Swivel-Socket/dp/B0014ZXTTY">http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80404-8-Inch-Swivel-Socket/dp/B0014ZXTTY
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80404-8-Inch-Swivel-Socket/dp/B0014ZXTTY" /> http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80404-8-Inch-Swivel-Socket/dp/B0014ZXTTY">http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80404-8-Inch-Swivel-Socket/dp/B0014ZXTTY
2. Have handy a bunch of small zip ties (for securing the coil packs to the wiring harness as you'll cut the original zip ties).
3. When removing the central rubber hose that connects the air boxes to the main intake, make sure you push the upper tab (what you can see) and the lower tabs outward before trying to pull it out or you'll break the tab(s).
4. Get a "Mercedes spark plug wire removal tool." Many brands, but they are basically open ended 17mm crescent wrenches that have a offset at the end. You can find Youtube videos on how to use them--just place over the metal ends of the spark plug boot and using your valve cover for leverage, the boots easily pop out. About $24 shipped. Will prevent you from breaking the wires if you pulled them by hand. An ebay seller (sg-motorsports)is selling the Mercedes spark plug wire tool and swivel spark plug tool (similar item as item 1 above) for $39--would be worth it.
5. As aluminum cylinder heads can be easily damaged, hand tighten the spark plugs as much as you can. Then for the final tightening, make sure you have a 3/8" torque wrench that can do 18.5 foot-pounds (25 N-m) torque.
Last edited by amg_w211; 03-25-2014 at 03:00 AM.
04-07-2014, 07:10 PM
#53
Gas mileage update and economies of scale
So after driving for the past few weeks on the new spark plugs, my mpg avg has settled down to 14.9 mpg, up from the old average of 13.7mpg. This is 90% city driving.
While we didn't buy the E55 for it's gas sipping capabilities, if you consider driving 12,000 miles/year and at the current cost of $3.69/gallon (premium gas) at these 2 mpg averages, here's the annual cost:
13.7mpg (old plugs): $3232/year gas
14.9mpg avg (new plugs): $2972/year gas
That's $260/hr in your pocket in gas savings per year. Over 5 years, $1300 savings--I'll take that. So yes, well worth changing the plugs if your plugs are due for a change and you haven't done so. Buy plugs online to save even more and if you don't want to do yourself, have a mechanic install them.
You'll get better throttle response, better idle, and for me at least, less soot accumulation/caking of my rear exhaust pipes (now it's very minimal with new plugs). Again, in my experience, I'd consider changing them at 80k intervals as they (again for me) dropped in performance around 100k.
Of course, your mileage may vary. Happy motoring!
While we didn't buy the E55 for it's gas sipping capabilities, if you consider driving 12,000 miles/year and at the current cost of $3.69/gallon (premium gas) at these 2 mpg averages, here's the annual cost:
13.7mpg (old plugs): $3232/year gas
14.9mpg avg (new plugs): $2972/year gas
That's $260/hr in your pocket in gas savings per year. Over 5 years, $1300 savings--I'll take that. So yes, well worth changing the plugs if your plugs are due for a change and you haven't done so. Buy plugs online to save even more and if you don't want to do yourself, have a mechanic install them.
You'll get better throttle response, better idle, and for me at least, less soot accumulation/caking of my rear exhaust pipes (now it's very minimal with new plugs). Again, in my experience, I'd consider changing them at 80k intervals as they (again for me) dropped in performance around 100k.
Of course, your mileage may vary. Happy motoring!
Last edited by amg_w211; 04-07-2014 at 07:25 PM.
04-23-2014, 01:28 AM
#55
Valve cover gasket DIY notes
As I had some seepage on both (a relatively common problem on W211s), I did the valve cover gaskets over the weekend and it was pretty easy. I'd rate it a 2/5 difficulty. My dealer wanted almost $500 to replace $25 worth of gaskets. A few notes from memory that may help others looking to do this job:
Time: 4hrs (most of it was spent cleaning the valve covers and taking my time), I can do the job in 2.5 hrs if I had to do it again
Tools Needed:
1. External Torx set. You'll need something like this: Lisle 26750 External Torx Set (on eBay or CarQuest). About $22. Hard to find as most hardware stores only sell "universal type" and not the specific external Torx wrenches. Universal tools may strip the external torx bolts, so I would suggest this external Torx kit (or similar).
2. Regular Torx set. T30 I believe. Pretty easy to find locally. To remove the coil packs.
3. Mercedes spark plug removal tool (or an equivalent aftermarket version--see my previous post above). Used to remove the spark plug boots from the plugs.
4. Small fine metal and plastic wire brushes.
5. Xylene (or your favorite solvent of choice--naptha, etc.)
6. Q-tips.
7. Torque wrench capable of 9Nm (80 inch-pounds)
8. Zip ties (for securing wiring harness to coil packs; also supercharger vacuum line to coil packs)
Materials
1. Valve cover gaskets. You have a few choices: MB genuine, Victor Reinz, and Elring (what I used) to name a few. V-R and Elring are both OEM to many German cars, so the quality should comparable (although Pelican Parts rates Elring 5 stars, while V-R is 4 starts). About $13 per side for V-R or Elring. OEM is about $18/side.
General Prep
1. Remove the front engine cover (over the super charger belt). Just lift up.
2. Remove the air filter boxes and rubber connector tube to throttle body (see notes above to carefully remove). You'll also remove the driver's side breather hose as well (it's connected to the main rubber intake tube)
3. Cover the exposed throttle body opening with a clean rag so dirt doesn't fly directly into your engine. Must do this.
4. With an air compressor, aggressively spray around the valve covers to get rid of as much dust as you can, so it doesn't fall into your exposed valve train when the valve cover comes off.
5. Clip off the zip ties on each of the wiring harnesses that connect to your coil packs.
6. Label each coil pack with masking tape so you know what goes where as you'll be removing them.
7. Pop off each spark plug boot from the spark plug using the Mercedes spark plug boot removal tool (trust me, get one). As I wasn't replacing the wires, I thought is was a cleaner way to remove them instead of letting the wires dangle while messing with the valve covers)
8. Remove all of the labeled coil packs (T30 screw) and set them aside. (you may want to clean some of them if you have leaked in oil residue--I used some xylene (from hardware store; very good oil solvent--or use your favorite cleaner) and cotton Q-tips and wiped inside until they came out clean--some were worse than others and some needed multiple Q-tips dipped in xylene. I followed up with a dry Q-tip to make sure all residue was gone. About 1/2 of the spark plug boots needed the cleaning.
9. With the coil pack harnesses, to get them out of the way, used a couple of small long, adjustable C-clamps (the type you'd use to hold wood together) clamped to the upper part of the supercharger.
10. Carefully pop off the 3 breather hoses (about 2/3 of the way back, on the upper side) on the passenger (1 breather hose) and driver's side valve covers (2 hoses). They may be stuck, just wiggle them gently (and if they are bad, you'll need to replace them).
Passenger side (the "easy side")
1. There's 10 external Torx bolts you need to remove (2 long ones by valve cover, and 8 shorts ones). On the breather covers, there's a couple smaller bolts--if your breather cover is fine, don't mess with those smaller bolts. The front e-Torx bolts are harder to take out as there is a bracket on the uppermost, front ones that holds a cylindrical electronic part. Take off the wiring harness near the front of the cylindrical part (unclips), then on the bottom of the round electronic part, use a flat screwdriver to push the tab, so you can wiggle out the electronic part from the metal bracket. On the frontmost, lower eTorx bolt, it holds a grounding wire, so don't forget that on install.
2. Valve cover gasket seal. To get the valve cover to pop off, on the uppermost, front side of the valve cover, I found an exposed bit of rubber gasket. I used a thin PLASTIC wedge (about 1/2" wide--it was part of a plastic trim tool set: Harbor Freight Tools--you can use any non-marring plastic tool scraper as well), and while holding it parallel to the upper cylinder head mating surface, I did a quick, gentle tap to the RUBBER GASKET ONLY to break the seal. Do NOT tap any part of the metal as you'll bend the valve cover.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html (or)
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-95832.html
Once the seal was broken, the whole valve cover could be lifted up and out. Remove and discard the old gasket. My oozing of oil was near the lower parts of the gasket by the spark plugs--no at the upper regions.
3. Cleaning gasket channel. Clean the exterior of the valve cover first. Use a wet rag with xylene and wipe it down. Afterwards, I used a wire brush on the inside gasket channels to get any remnant of gasket material out of the grooves. I followed up w/ some xylene dipped Q-tips to get the channels nice and clean. If you are using a strong solvent like xylene, don't get it in your breather covers, as it'll eat the black RTV. Just put some xylene on a cloth and wipe. Take your time to clean up the grooves. If your breather covers are also leaking, now is the time to take it apart (2 small bolts), clean the grooves and reseal with black RTV. Once you are done cleaning, give the inside of the valve cover a good spray with your compressed air to get any loose particles off.
4. On the upper cylinder head of the engine, make sure you wipe it down good so there's no oil on the surface where the rubber gasket will mate. I used a cloth with a little xylene to wipe this down.
5. New valve cover gasket. Make sure all xylene has evaporated out of the gasket grooves of the valve cover before you put back on your new gasket. If not, wipe the channels down really good. Now, carefully seat the gasket in the valve cover grooves. The factory instructions did not call for gasket sealant, and I didn't use any. But some people recommend a little gasket sealant for the moon areas between the gasket itself and the valve cover (--if you use gasket sealant, make sure none gets on the exposed gasket itself that will touch the upper cylinder head surface. Maybe others can chime in on the usage of gasket sealant).
6. Carefully replace the valve cover back onto the cylinder head. Hand tighten all 10 of the external Torx bolts. Don't forget the metal bracket on the uppermost front bolts, and the grounding wire on the lower, frontmost bolt. I initially torqued the 10 bolts (in a star pattern) to 40 in-pds. Then I did 60 in-lbs in a star pattern, then finished off at 80 in-pds (9 Nm). This will assure that you don't get leaks down the road by properly seating the valve cover.
7. Hook up the cylindrical electrical piece to plastic bracket. Hook up the electrical harness to that cylindrical piece.
8. Replace the passenger side spark plug boots and coil packs. Start with the most rearward spark plugs first for ease and work your way to the front--just trust me on this. Make ABSOLUTELY sure that the boots make a positive "CLICK" sound to make ensure they are seated properply. If they don't "CLICK", pull them out w/ your spark plug removal tool, and work on that boot to get a good solid "CLICK" again. Rezip tie the coil pack wiring harness to the coil packs. Once done with all spark plug wires, screw down the coil packs and clip in the harnesses.
9. Reconnect the breather hose back to the valve cover.
Driver's Side (the side with "caveats")
The driver's side valve cover is like the passenger but with a few caveats:
1. Remove fuel pressure line to fuel rail. The stainless braided fuel pressure line runs across the driver's valve cover gasket--it has to be removed where it connects the fuel rail by the back of the supercharger. I used a 17mm wrench to loosen it (my Mercedes spark plug removal tool). It will drip a bit of fuel, so keep a rag handy. Let it slowly drip for about 15 minutes as it will drip right into your valve train, if you try to rush this. Once disconnected, you can slide the rubber grommet on the fuel line so you can move the fuel line out of the way of the valve cover.
2. Supercharger vacuum "line" (runs directly across the valve cover) and connecting tab (uppermost, rearmost part of valve cover). You can remove the vacuum line of the supercharger (it's held by crimped clamps) so it's out of the way of the valve cover. You can also have an assistant or C-clamps to hold it out of the way if you don't want to remove the supercharger vacuum line. If you remove the supercharger vacuum line, use hose clamps to secure it back onto the rubber hoses. It's just easier if you have an assistant help when pulling the valve cover out and also to put the driver's side valve cover back on.
3. Instead of 10 e-Torx bolts, there's 11 of them and more long ones with bolt guides on the valve cover, so it's harder to remove--you just lift up more before clearing them from the upper cylinder. And the long bolt guides make it tough to place the driver's side valve cover back on
4. Instead of 1 breather hose, there's 2 on the driver's side. The rearmost one may be left on the valve cover if you aren't resealing the vent covers.
5. Valve cover gasket seal tap location (uppermost, front of driver's valve cover--you may have to go another 1/2" more rearward along the top edge to find some exposed valve cover gasket to tap vs the passenger side). As the breather cover is longer on this side than the passenger side, do NOT be confused and tap the breather cover RTV seal. Tap only the pre-formed, uniform rubber gasket, which deeper and closer to the supercharger and upper cylinder head--if you started on the passenger side, you'll know what to look for.
Other than the above, it's pretty the same procedure to remove, clean and replace. Don't forget to connect up the fuel line connector and supercharger vacuum line and breather hoses when done. I also noted that my rearmost breather hose (connects up the air filter intake main pipe) was leaking a bit of oil at the connection w/ the breather cover, so I used a hose clamp to tighten it down to the breather cover and prevent future leaks.
I wished I took more photos, but once you start up the process, my notes will make sense. Good luck with the valve cover work. Attached is the factory PDF which may or may not help you--just posted for reference. Following the OP pictures/notes and my notes/PDF will be more useful as the factory WIS instructions leave a bit left out.
Time: 4hrs (most of it was spent cleaning the valve covers and taking my time), I can do the job in 2.5 hrs if I had to do it again
Tools Needed:
1. External Torx set. You'll need something like this: Lisle 26750 External Torx Set (on eBay or CarQuest). About $22. Hard to find as most hardware stores only sell "universal type" and not the specific external Torx wrenches. Universal tools may strip the external torx bolts, so I would suggest this external Torx kit (or similar).
2. Regular Torx set. T30 I believe. Pretty easy to find locally. To remove the coil packs.
3. Mercedes spark plug removal tool (or an equivalent aftermarket version--see my previous post above). Used to remove the spark plug boots from the plugs.
4. Small fine metal and plastic wire brushes.
5. Xylene (or your favorite solvent of choice--naptha, etc.)
6. Q-tips.
7. Torque wrench capable of 9Nm (80 inch-pounds)
8. Zip ties (for securing wiring harness to coil packs; also supercharger vacuum line to coil packs)
Materials
1. Valve cover gaskets. You have a few choices: MB genuine, Victor Reinz, and Elring (what I used) to name a few. V-R and Elring are both OEM to many German cars, so the quality should comparable (although Pelican Parts rates Elring 5 stars, while V-R is 4 starts). About $13 per side for V-R or Elring. OEM is about $18/side.
General Prep
1. Remove the front engine cover (over the super charger belt). Just lift up.
2. Remove the air filter boxes and rubber connector tube to throttle body (see notes above to carefully remove). You'll also remove the driver's side breather hose as well (it's connected to the main rubber intake tube)
3. Cover the exposed throttle body opening with a clean rag so dirt doesn't fly directly into your engine. Must do this.
4. With an air compressor, aggressively spray around the valve covers to get rid of as much dust as you can, so it doesn't fall into your exposed valve train when the valve cover comes off.
5. Clip off the zip ties on each of the wiring harnesses that connect to your coil packs.
6. Label each coil pack with masking tape so you know what goes where as you'll be removing them.
7. Pop off each spark plug boot from the spark plug using the Mercedes spark plug boot removal tool (trust me, get one). As I wasn't replacing the wires, I thought is was a cleaner way to remove them instead of letting the wires dangle while messing with the valve covers)
8. Remove all of the labeled coil packs (T30 screw) and set them aside. (you may want to clean some of them if you have leaked in oil residue--I used some xylene (from hardware store; very good oil solvent--or use your favorite cleaner) and cotton Q-tips and wiped inside until they came out clean--some were worse than others and some needed multiple Q-tips dipped in xylene. I followed up with a dry Q-tip to make sure all residue was gone. About 1/2 of the spark plug boots needed the cleaning.
9. With the coil pack harnesses, to get them out of the way, used a couple of small long, adjustable C-clamps (the type you'd use to hold wood together) clamped to the upper part of the supercharger.
10. Carefully pop off the 3 breather hoses (about 2/3 of the way back, on the upper side) on the passenger (1 breather hose) and driver's side valve covers (2 hoses). They may be stuck, just wiggle them gently (and if they are bad, you'll need to replace them).
Passenger side (the "easy side")
1. There's 10 external Torx bolts you need to remove (2 long ones by valve cover, and 8 shorts ones). On the breather covers, there's a couple smaller bolts--if your breather cover is fine, don't mess with those smaller bolts. The front e-Torx bolts are harder to take out as there is a bracket on the uppermost, front ones that holds a cylindrical electronic part. Take off the wiring harness near the front of the cylindrical part (unclips), then on the bottom of the round electronic part, use a flat screwdriver to push the tab, so you can wiggle out the electronic part from the metal bracket. On the frontmost, lower eTorx bolt, it holds a grounding wire, so don't forget that on install.
2. Valve cover gasket seal. To get the valve cover to pop off, on the uppermost, front side of the valve cover, I found an exposed bit of rubber gasket. I used a thin PLASTIC wedge (about 1/2" wide--it was part of a plastic trim tool set: Harbor Freight Tools--you can use any non-marring plastic tool scraper as well), and while holding it parallel to the upper cylinder head mating surface, I did a quick, gentle tap to the RUBBER GASKET ONLY to break the seal. Do NOT tap any part of the metal as you'll bend the valve cover.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html (or)
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-95832.html
Once the seal was broken, the whole valve cover could be lifted up and out. Remove and discard the old gasket. My oozing of oil was near the lower parts of the gasket by the spark plugs--no at the upper regions.
3. Cleaning gasket channel. Clean the exterior of the valve cover first. Use a wet rag with xylene and wipe it down. Afterwards, I used a wire brush on the inside gasket channels to get any remnant of gasket material out of the grooves. I followed up w/ some xylene dipped Q-tips to get the channels nice and clean. If you are using a strong solvent like xylene, don't get it in your breather covers, as it'll eat the black RTV. Just put some xylene on a cloth and wipe. Take your time to clean up the grooves. If your breather covers are also leaking, now is the time to take it apart (2 small bolts), clean the grooves and reseal with black RTV. Once you are done cleaning, give the inside of the valve cover a good spray with your compressed air to get any loose particles off.
4. On the upper cylinder head of the engine, make sure you wipe it down good so there's no oil on the surface where the rubber gasket will mate. I used a cloth with a little xylene to wipe this down.
5. New valve cover gasket. Make sure all xylene has evaporated out of the gasket grooves of the valve cover before you put back on your new gasket. If not, wipe the channels down really good. Now, carefully seat the gasket in the valve cover grooves. The factory instructions did not call for gasket sealant, and I didn't use any. But some people recommend a little gasket sealant for the moon areas between the gasket itself and the valve cover (--if you use gasket sealant, make sure none gets on the exposed gasket itself that will touch the upper cylinder head surface. Maybe others can chime in on the usage of gasket sealant).
6. Carefully replace the valve cover back onto the cylinder head. Hand tighten all 10 of the external Torx bolts. Don't forget the metal bracket on the uppermost front bolts, and the grounding wire on the lower, frontmost bolt. I initially torqued the 10 bolts (in a star pattern) to 40 in-pds. Then I did 60 in-lbs in a star pattern, then finished off at 80 in-pds (9 Nm). This will assure that you don't get leaks down the road by properly seating the valve cover.
7. Hook up the cylindrical electrical piece to plastic bracket. Hook up the electrical harness to that cylindrical piece.
8. Replace the passenger side spark plug boots and coil packs. Start with the most rearward spark plugs first for ease and work your way to the front--just trust me on this. Make ABSOLUTELY sure that the boots make a positive "CLICK" sound to make ensure they are seated properply. If they don't "CLICK", pull them out w/ your spark plug removal tool, and work on that boot to get a good solid "CLICK" again. Rezip tie the coil pack wiring harness to the coil packs. Once done with all spark plug wires, screw down the coil packs and clip in the harnesses.
9. Reconnect the breather hose back to the valve cover.
Driver's Side (the side with "caveats")
The driver's side valve cover is like the passenger but with a few caveats:
1. Remove fuel pressure line to fuel rail. The stainless braided fuel pressure line runs across the driver's valve cover gasket--it has to be removed where it connects the fuel rail by the back of the supercharger. I used a 17mm wrench to loosen it (my Mercedes spark plug removal tool). It will drip a bit of fuel, so keep a rag handy. Let it slowly drip for about 15 minutes as it will drip right into your valve train, if you try to rush this. Once disconnected, you can slide the rubber grommet on the fuel line so you can move the fuel line out of the way of the valve cover.
2. Supercharger vacuum "line" (runs directly across the valve cover) and connecting tab (uppermost, rearmost part of valve cover). You can remove the vacuum line of the supercharger (it's held by crimped clamps) so it's out of the way of the valve cover. You can also have an assistant or C-clamps to hold it out of the way if you don't want to remove the supercharger vacuum line. If you remove the supercharger vacuum line, use hose clamps to secure it back onto the rubber hoses. It's just easier if you have an assistant help when pulling the valve cover out and also to put the driver's side valve cover back on.
3. Instead of 10 e-Torx bolts, there's 11 of them and more long ones with bolt guides on the valve cover, so it's harder to remove--you just lift up more before clearing them from the upper cylinder. And the long bolt guides make it tough to place the driver's side valve cover back on
4. Instead of 1 breather hose, there's 2 on the driver's side. The rearmost one may be left on the valve cover if you aren't resealing the vent covers.
5. Valve cover gasket seal tap location (uppermost, front of driver's valve cover--you may have to go another 1/2" more rearward along the top edge to find some exposed valve cover gasket to tap vs the passenger side). As the breather cover is longer on this side than the passenger side, do NOT be confused and tap the breather cover RTV seal. Tap only the pre-formed, uniform rubber gasket, which deeper and closer to the supercharger and upper cylinder head--if you started on the passenger side, you'll know what to look for.
Other than the above, it's pretty the same procedure to remove, clean and replace. Don't forget to connect up the fuel line connector and supercharger vacuum line and breather hoses when done. I also noted that my rearmost breather hose (connects up the air filter intake main pipe) was leaking a bit of oil at the connection w/ the breather cover, so I used a hose clamp to tighten it down to the breather cover and prevent future leaks.
I wished I took more photos, but once you start up the process, my notes will make sense. Good luck with the valve cover work. Attached is the factory PDF which may or may not help you--just posted for reference. Following the OP pictures/notes and my notes/PDF will be more useful as the factory WIS instructions leave a bit left out.
Last edited by amg_w211; 04-23-2014 at 01:55 AM.
04-23-2014, 09:43 AM
#56
MBWorld Fanatic!
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96 and 08 911 turbos
there is absolutely no need to disconnect the fuel line
OEM gaskets are $13 each at many dealer intermediaries online
there should be absolutely no need to tap anything. The cover should be easily removable with little to no force.
OEM gaskets are $13 each at many dealer intermediaries online
there should be absolutely no need to tap anything. The cover should be easily removable with little to no force.
04-23-2014, 01:01 PM
#57
I doubt you have ever removed the valve cover on the drivers side on the 113.990 engine on a W211. If so, you would quickly realize that the fuel line is in the way--no way you can lift out the valve cover with it in place. Even factory instructions call for it.
As for the valve cover gasket, notice I mentioned LIGHT tap on the rubber gasket to help break the seal--avoiding any metal contact. Mine had been on there for 8 years and was stuck tight. If you're lucky to wiggle it off, I definitely would go that route. Unfortunately that was not my case.
As for the valve cover gasket, notice I mentioned LIGHT tap on the rubber gasket to help break the seal--avoiding any metal contact. Mine had been on there for 8 years and was stuck tight. If you're lucky to wiggle it off, I definitely would go that route. Unfortunately that was not my case.
09-05-2014, 04:08 PM
#58
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'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
What's the torque spec for the bolts in the breather box covers? I know the valve covers themselves are 72 in-lb.
06-16-2015, 02:23 PM
#63
01-14-2019, 06:48 PM
#64
Super Member
Disconnect fuel line to do left valve gasket?
Can anyone chime in on debate of disconnecting fuel line to remove left valve cover? I just eyeballed my engine bay and doesn’t look like it’s needed. I’m planning to do my gaskets so need info.
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MSG 55G (01-19-2019)
01-14-2019, 09:22 PM
#66
Super Member
01-17-2019, 07:33 PM
#67
Member
Like the other guy said not necessary, but it would make it a lot easier to do. I did it without disconnecting the line but if I have to do it again I'm going to disconnect it. Getting the cover off isn't so bad, but I had a terrible time trying to get it back on with the fuel line in place. Eventually I got it.
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MSG 55G (01-19-2019)
03-20-2019, 04:07 AM
#68
Super Member
Like the other guy said not necessary, but it would make it a lot easier to do. I did it without disconnecting the line but if I have to do it again I'm going to disconnect it. Getting the cover off isn't so bad, but I had a terrible time trying to get it back on with the fuel line in place. Eventually I got it.
03-20-2019, 11:55 PM
#69
Super Member
03-21-2019, 12:04 AM
#70
Super Member
Valve cover gasket project completed today. This posting was so helpful to get started. Difficulty... 3 out of 10. Hardest part is cleaning the covers and breather chambers,
AND Definitely you DON’T have to remove fuel line to remove driver’s side cover. Also the alloy breather tube that get dislodge from sc snout can be reinstalled from the passenger side looking under and thru crevasse of the driver side surge tank, use a flashlight!!!!
AND Definitely you DON’T have to remove fuel line to remove driver’s side cover. Also the alloy breather tube that get dislodge from sc snout can be reinstalled from the passenger side looking under and thru crevasse of the driver side surge tank, use a flashlight!!!!
