That's just the sort of experience I was hoping to hear about.

I don't usually like like by line replies, but some of the specifics are eluding me....
That's what I was hoping to hear, though I'm not sure I'd try to run AHCI drivers. Did you have to do that.
I presume that with a dedicated laptop, there's no reason why the BIOS SATA control can't stay set to IDE?
I also presume you had to load all the other devices drivers?
That's what I hear over and over again, so the challenge for me is to run SDS from an internal HDD
By this, do you mean that you copy the HDD image over to an internal drive, then use a USB to serial convertor cable to connect to the MUX?
What does the USB cable do? HDD connection or MUX connection?
Have to admit I wouldn't dream of trying that....
Well, that's probably where I'm about to end up, but are you saying tis not worth trying to use a better laptop?

Many thanks, Nick

 

This is not my experience ... have you seen my youtube video link on the previous page? Even though it is a simulation mode I am running, it actually does run that fast when connected to the car .. that was using an i5 processor on Macbook pro, Macbook air runs about the same speed ... slightly slower in certain menus. Can I ask where you got your 2012 SW? I have 2010

 

Has anyone figured out how to disable the drivers seatbelt chime? I was able to turn off the passenger seat belt chime but cannot find anything within the STAR menus and submenus pertaining to the drivers seat belt chime.

Any one else had any luck?

 

I disabled mine about a year ago. I will try hook up star today and get back to you with instructions.

 

Not sure if you have already figured this out but i got it to work on my G55. You can access through either quick test or control units. After you have chosen quick test do the following.

1. Choose ICM - instrument cluster with maintenance interval display
2. Troubleshooting by means of complaints or symptoms
3. Messages from the emergency call sytem are displayed on the instrument cluster
4. After you choose the above the next screen will have a box on the right that allows you to choose present or not present. Choose not present and save with F3 key.
5. After that it will say. Is the coding to be transferred to the new control unit and you need to choose yes or the F3 key again.

That is all and message should be gone..

 

Here are some pictures of the above instructions

 

I purchased a used cluster for Canada that is in Kilometers. I want to program the correct mileage for my car but it will not allow me as it is not at zero for mileage like a new cluster would be. Is there any way to zero it out so I can program my correct mileage.

 

That is a very good question, since I also want to update to CLK63 AMG cluster!

Is that possible with DAS/Xentry or it needs to go with other kind of software out there?


PS: any one who speak German found any place in DAS to do Logs/readings of values like temps etc. and show them on a graph like with an ELM interface or like RossTech Vag-com does?!

 

Anybody have any info on this?

 

Anybody?

 

The left side of my wife s55 sits 5/8 of a inch lower than the right. I have no warning lights. I can rasie the car with the buttons inside with no problem. after rasing with the buttons its still 5/8 lower. Had some one use thier scanner and raised the right side. drove the car checked it after diving sat great. the next morning stared the car and felt loke it moved. When I checked it the right side went down. Had him scan it again. He rasied it back up. Drove the car shut it off started it again it went back down. He said he saved the setting. He did the rodeo. He rasied the front up the back up did it side to side with his scanner with no problems. Has no codes in the scanner. The bar pressure is in the 190's. He don't know whats wrong. Maybe the comuter he thinks. Maybe he's not really saving the settings? We raised the car on a wheel lift where the tires are on the lift. Took the rear adjustment leveler off of the sensor with the car running and moved it up and down but the car did not go up and down. I see you can buy adjustable levelers to raise or lower your car. But we couldn't get the car to go up and down by moving the lever. Maybe the car won't go up and down that fast. The high side sits at 28 inches. Anybody have any ideas? Anybody else have this problem? I live in Dallas. Thanks

 

Make sure the links are not slightly bent.
It's not unusual to have unequal heights between sides and you can try all you want in SDS to equalize them but things tend to go back the way they were after a few days.
I think the easiest way is to do what I did and buy adjustable links and fine tune to get equal heights between the left and right. You have to be mindful that adjusting one corner will have an affect on another corner. Also the resolution of link length is governed by the thread pitch on the links themselves and the smallest increment is one whole turn. Shorter links make it higher in the front and lower in the back.

 

Nothing looked bent. Looking at all the arms they looked the same. When we remove the arm from the lower aframe and moved it up and down why didn't the car move up or down? does it take awhile or do you have to drive the car a little after adjustment. When I put on the adjustable arms will the move as I make the adjustment with the car running? I will lifting the car on a alignment rack so its like lifting the car up in the air but the tires are on the rack. Also when you lift the car on a regulator rack, when do you push the button on the dash that shows you towing the car. Do you need to have the car running when pushing the button. Will a light come on on the button when pushing it? Is that to relieving the pressure off the abc system? Thanks again. I will be getting the new arms Monday. Hope that works.

 

Does you wife's S55 have ABC hydraulic suspension or air suspension?

 

hydraulic supension

 

the engine has to be running to operate the suspension.
It's risky to try and move any of the level sensor levers while the engine is running. You could easy get your hand or arm squashed. Any level sensor movement is instantaneous.
Adjustable links are just different lengths than the factory links so they will act just like normal but with different ride heights.
There is no tow button on S55's.
You need to learn more about the basics of your car I think.
Watch and study all of this.
http://bayhas.com/mercedes/w220/contents/Default.htm
and watch this ABC section of the CL class since its the same suspension in your S55.
http://bayhas.com/mercedes/cl215/contents/home.htm

 

Sorry my mistake. The button with the picture of the rear of the car being lifted by a hook is the Shut-off position function
If the unloading of all the wheels is recognized by the control module when the vehicle is stationary and engine is switched off, the spring strut shut-off valves are closed. The vehicle therefore remains at the current level. This is required when changing a wheel or for repair work (hoist) for example. Hey thanks great sites to learn more about the car. I would think if you are towing the car you should have this on also? Which I wouldn't want to tow the car like that I would ratter flat bed it if possible.

 

Ah yes, that's a button none of us ever want to have to press.

 

you cant zero out with STAR.

in the UK there are plenty of "Milage correction" companies that will do it, basically a tool that plugs into the cluster or clamps onto the eprom and reprograms it to 0, then you can use STAR to assign it to the car and pick up the cars settings, options and milage.

 

As yet another MB Star newbie, I thought I'd post a few impressions. Having owned four W220s, and the current one since 2012, I've listened to other DIY-ers swear that you HAD to have and SDS to maintain them properly. I survived a long time, but recently gave in and joined the club. I did my research first, and listened to all the problems and solutions that other folks found. Most (but not all) people said:

Use an internal HDD
Use Windows XP
Use an MB Star C3 / type D multiplexer
Connect the MUX to a serial port
Use a Dell D630
Use a PCMCIA card
Don't use a PCMCIA card
Avoid the Star Connect 4
Don't use VMWare
Don't use a battery charger
Do use a battery charger
Run the engine while you use SDS
Don't use wireless connection
Don't use a USB to serial convertor
Plus lots of advise on virtual environments and COM port settings.

I was cautious and bought a Dell D630 plus Star C3 from China, and once past the tortuous software passwords, everything worked out of the box. Other newbies always ask which seller to use, and I'm still none the wiser. I used OBD365, but they all seem to be similar as far as I can tell. The user instructions are invariably inadequate, so you have to rely on support. They always reply to questions overnight, but never tell you exactly what you need to know first time. My sellers strongly advised against different laptops or MUX's, and my caution was rewarded by a system that just worked, and I can run my D630 through a docking station into a large monitor etc.

Never having seen what others take for granted, SDS is like opening a window to automotive NeverLand, and I was shocked by how easy MB techs have it. Its a bottomless pit of information and support; the monkeys really don't have to learn anything.

From my point of view, with so many different models supported, it could satisfy my curiosity to see how other cars worked, so I could happly spend all the free time in the rest of my life reading all the WIS and EPC entries. Anyway, I found the particular fault that I needed very quickly and easily, and ordered a new part.

Now - all that was Boring. The interesting part of this post is what happens when you have the ignition on for a long time. Although my battery was healthy and fully charged, I decided to run a charger. I set that to 6A, but even then, I found that the battery voltage steadily dropped by half a volt over the course of an hour. With the ignition on, the car must be pulling a lot of current from battery, and I'd suggest using a BIG charger - something like 10 or 12A. I believe SDS stops working when the battery drops too low, though I never got that far, but I can understand why some say you should run the engine.

Nick

 

Do you guys know a new site to get info about DAS now that jcrecordings is shut down? I fired up my DAS system after it set idle for over a year and I got error 30.9 DAS Expired. I think I need a new license key file... I may even have the keygen I just forgot how to use it. Anyone got a guide?

 

Hello,


I just bought a Chinese C3 with hdd for a Dell D630. When I went into Star Utilities, it accepted and saved the code for DAS and WIS, but not Xentry. I contacted the seller and they want me to go online with TeamViewer and they'll get a good code for Xentry.


My problem, if I've been reading correctly, is if you go online the software will automatically update and get blacklisted.


Should I take a chance?


Also, if any of you have any experience with ABC problems and replacing struts, perhaps you could take a look at my thread and give me some advice:


https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post5964381


Thanks!


YY

 

The seller wants to login into your laptop with team-viewer and write the correct code. It's not common but not that unusual.
I would power it up, keep in on and connected to the internet and email them the details they need. Them let them log in the fix it.

 

It's my understanding that if Windows XP automatically updates, or if the Star software automatically updates, the C3 turns into a brick, completely useless, locked up, blacklisted. That's why many have disabled wifi and never use Star online.


But many of these posts are several years old and this may no longer be the case.


Does anyone with experience with Chinese Star have an opinion? Is it now safe to go online with Star? And why? What's changed? Were the others wrong about this? Check out this guy and what happened to him when he went online:


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...y-chinese.html






I need to verify before I ruin my machine. Can anyone convince me it's now ok?


YY

 

The above post is quite long, so here's the money quote:


"I then learnt the hard way that installing and switching on the SDS on a laptop connected to the Internet results in the system automatically downloading SDS "Addons" and in the process, it seems, being "Black Listed" by MB thus preventing the MUX from working/connecting.


I could still use Xentry in simulation mode, ie with no vehicle connected, and this is extremely useful for training purposes, but I just could not get the SDS to connect again to my vehicle."


I can't imagine the Chinese distributor would want me to brick my new machine by going online. Can someone explain? Was the above poster incorrect?


YY