P.S: I saw this thread, great info

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...o-numbers.html

 

Call eurocharged. They've messed with nitrous I believe.

 

Hey Adsonic,

I will try my best to answer your questions about nitrous.

1. Hand built engine or not doesn't make a significant difference when you spray on it.

2. Yes and No. It's all how safely the car is ran on the spray and or how often it's used. If you're running the engine too lean then you can cause damage of course. Make sure you have the proper fuel enrichment. At a certain point you will need to upgrade to a secondary fuel pump. So you should ask someone who has done it first.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujsTZduMZAQ (This guy should know)

3. Going with a bigger pulley is not better in terms of power increase. A properly tuned 100 shot of spray should eclipse a pulley and tune. It should give you massive increase in hp and ridiculous amount of tq. Don't be surprised to see another 90-100+ lbs of tq and like immediately after pressing the button. It will have both you and the car giggling.

4. You should be Ok with a 100 shot. I'm pretty sure people have sprayed more then that on our cars. 100 shot is really the average for any decent v8 anyway. Great thing about nitrous is the cooling properties as well as the increase in power.

5. I would look into going a step or 2 colder on the plugs and make sure you run good fuel. Then let the beast out of the cage!

6. Fogger kit is a good idea. Make sure and place the nozzle as close to the throttle body as possible. Near the y splitter would be a good idea.

7. I usually don't like buttons. You better make sure you let go of that button before you lift the throttle or you can backfire and bend the throttle plate and cause other damage. Ive used the full throttle button with an on off toggle switch to arm the system. They also have several new fail safes in place. Nitrous tuning has come a long way.

8. I think its awesome and it's not for everyone. But, I'm sure you already knew that.

 

Just put it out there for those who might protest doing so with an engine that was build will so much love

Already messaged him asking for little feedback

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max.H

7. I usually don't like buttons. You better make sure you let go of that button before you lift the throttle or you can backfire and bend the throttle plate and cause other damage. Ive used the full throttle button with an on off toggle switch to arm the system. They also have several new fail safes in place. Nitrous tuning has come a long way.

Was looking at this then decided to stop as I don't have an idea where to find the TPS, RPM or the 1st gear lock.

Progressive Nitrous controller

The PROGRESSIVE NITROUS MINI-CONTROLLER combines the functions of our 2-STAGE TPS AND RPM WINDOW SWITCH and our HIGH CURRENT SOLENOID DRIVER all into one very compact module. It can progressively drive two channels, each with a 40 amp load capacity (continuous duty). The device also supports low-voltage OEM, V10 or 3 cylinder TACH signals without the need for additional adapters. It works with most OEM throttle position sensors including most drive-by-wire vehicles. This device also includes FJO's "real curve" ramp which allows you to create a progressive curve instead of just a ramp, and the ramp can be either time based or RPM based. All this and only the size of a spark plug box.

 

 

Those are nice. Do it!

 

What would be the ideal activation / deactivation RPM. I was thinking of 3800 / 6000

Also, anyone knows which wire is the RPM signal from the engine’s ignition?

 

I don't have a nitrous set on an E55 so by no means would I say I'm an expert on the matter.
I be hesitant to spray fuel and nitrous through the supercharger into the intercooler. I'd look for a spot post intercooler.
Also if your goals are 100hp you might consider looking at a dry kit, The stock afrs are pretty rich and would support a fair amount nitrous safely.
Of course you should know that a wideband should be standard equipment for a nitrous car. I'd look into the zedtronix unit. they have it were you can turn off/on a 12v source if a preset limit is met, So basically if the car runs lean it can turn off the nitrous.
Lastly if you really want to pull out all the stops and build a top shelf nitrous set up look into a direct port nitrous fogger set up. I would consider the safest way to run nitrous in the 55k. With the way our surge tanks are set up I would be worried about the last 2 cylinders (7&8) drawing in more of the mix than say first 2(1&2)
Good luck

 

the rpm is read at any of the coils, there is 3 wire lead going in to it, I had 2 splice 2 of the 3 befor I wound the right one Just make sure and set up what ever is reading the rpm as a single cylinder.

 

I'll most likely be working with these :

ZEX V8 Wet Nitrous Kit for Fuel Injection Engines #82023
ZEX NITROUS TRACTION CONTROL WINDOW SWITCH #82085

Maybe a 75hp shot before going to 100hp

I was hoping to tap directly into the ECM harness for the stealth factor.

 

You'll never see the tap at the coil cause the air box sits on top of them.
An idea of direct port on a slightly older intake

 

I would try emailing eurocharged directly or call them on Monday. They've always been great about emailing me back. Maybe they just didn't see the treads you replied to. Who knows. Just sayin

 

I'll PM them on this project and see what they think.

 

Rflow and I shot it the ole fashioned way......hard switch controls on and off and she works great.

You can literally wire in a wet shot with nozzle under the airbox shooting right into the TB and NOONE will be able to see it.

Naked eye looking down on open hood.

Did get a touch of lean spike upon hitting the switch (using tailpipe wideband) which scared me enough to not go much further using on regular basis. Think it was draining the fuel rail/dropping pressure and car was stuggling to recover for a split sec. Wasn't that big a deal so it depends on how much you are gonna use it.

Itallion Stallion was shooting his car non stop without trouble. Thinking he had it hooked up the horn or something.

Check with him for more info.

Rflow and I were hitting 150shot and maybe a touch more

 

whoaa I never knew you messed with nitrous. PM me some details please !!!

 

Supercharged and Turbo cars love nitrous, great cooling factor with even small shots. we had someone down here in East Texas busting low elevens with just a 50 shot and a Tune. I believe it was a dry shot. should be fine at that low level. I run NOS on my shelby cobra and setup my friends supercharged C6, I think its a great power adder and have never lost an engine. its almost always the greed factor , if 50 shot is good , then 150 is better and then 200 is a must and then PPPOOOWWW. 0 hp. so dont get greedy and have fun. We have shot in front of the intercooler and behind the intercooler and right in front of the TB. all seem to work well on different cars, some wet and some dry. I will agree the direct port is the best method but this is usually high HP shots like 200 plus or even staged setup where you start with 100shot then go to 200 or 250 shot once your down the track. Ooh I could go on and on. almost always worth at least 1 sec in the 1/4 if you dont have traction issues. 150 shot on a 96 TA Ws6 with mild mod cut off over 1 sec and that was with wheels spinning thur the first 100 ft , with 60ft times at 1.9 -2.0 , never ran slicks the rear end wouldnt take it. just some info.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jakpro1

Did get a touch of lean spike upon hitting the switch (using tailpipe wideband) which scared me enough to not go much further using on regular basis. Think it was draining the fuel rail/dropping pressure and car was stuggling to recover for a split sec. Wasn't that big a deal so it depends on how much you are gonna use it.

Would this happen with a 100hp shot?

Also,

1- Do I need to worry about the timing?
2- what would be the ideal activation / deactivation RPM? I want to play it safe here.

 

Jakpro1,

PM me some info on your Nitrous setup to if you don't mind. I never knew you had it. Would like to have it just for the very occasional use

 

[quote=Adsonic;3949977] Would this happen with a 100hp shot?

Not likely on a 100hp shot. just check with a wideband once or twice if your worried. Dyno shop can check or borrow one.

Also,

1- Do I need to worry about the timing?
2- what would be the ideal activation / deactivation RPM? I want to play it safe here.


No timing issues needed. and as for activation. either pedal switch most come with this , or momentary activation switch button type or has some have mentioned you can set it up on the horn. if you spend some more dough you buy the RPM switches. Usually start at 3500 to 6000 rpm. MSD has pill switch you can even change by 100 rpm increments.

 

Yes I would be going with an RPM switch, but I was wondering about the RPM that activate the system and the RPM that deactivate it