When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
this is a simple 15-20 min job with minimal tools needed , the list
1 medium flat head screwdriver or pocket knife
1 T25 torx head driver/start driver
glass cleaner and paper towels
1 new 3rd brake light ( a given) w211 03-05 part number A211820 15 56
Just pop out the 9 black plasitc caps with the screwdriver and remove . then remove the cap in each side hinge ,it is easier if you pop off the small latch on the trunk hinge plasic covers as well. Take out the 6 star screws holding on the hard plastic trunk cover over the latch. the carpet piece now just pulls down. you do need to pull it towards the front of the car due to the handles on the inside not really an issue it just slips down , then disconnect the button and then remove.the small light I just push it thru and then pulled it back thru carefully its more difficult to disconnect. Now the 3rd brake light has 2 plastic tabs the stick out. you need to push these to the outward you can see how they hold on then carefully remove the back black LED part . you will need to wiggle it and then slide it to the Left side and drop out the Right end first. Then disconnect on Left side. took about 15 mins-20 mins first time.
The part comes complete with new a Red light cover. It also seems to have a better looking gasket than the one that came on it. The hardest part is removing the old lens cover. I used a screw driver and pressed in the soft metal tabs on the front side you can see, then just used my finger on the back side of the tab to let it slip outward working from one end to the next. keep you new lens oriented in the right direction when putting the new one one. You do not bend any tabs on the new one. make sure you clean the surface real well , so It can adhere and create a water tight seal. slip the plug in and then put the LED portion on sliding it in on the Left side fist. then flipping up over the grey tabs then make sure you pull the black tabs back to the center I pushed in on the light from the outside to help keep a tight fit. Works great. you can only check it if you turn the ignition on like your going to start the car.
Here is the new one , you will need to take it apart and then you will have a good idea on how it slips on from the back side , Hope this helps some others out there I would rate this as a 2 on a scale of 1-5 for difficulty there are a few tight spots but just go slow and wiggle things around a bit , I didnt utter any curse words the whole time .
Thanks for the write up mikeevo! My '05 third brake light gasket recently failed. I couldn't find it for sale separately, and since the light & lens are fine, I thought I'd try making a new gasket from some weather resistant closed cell foam.
Well that didn't work out so well. I just don't have a steady enough hand to cut the shape evenly. Clearly surgery would never have been a career option for me, lol. If anyone wants to give it a shot, I *believe* that a soft, closed cell 1/8 EPDM foam will work. The stuff I had on hand seemed pretty close to what MB used (taking into account the failed gasket is 6 years old at this point). Unless you're going to make your own die to cut the foam, you'll need to make a template and find a way to hold the foam steady while you cut it with a sharp knife (X-Acto blades were not sharp enough-- I used a disposable scalpel).
After a few failed tries I punted and ordered a new assembly from parts.com. I’m getting the updated 07-09 version, which is cheaper ($110.40 vs. $133.20 for the 03-06 version as of today), and I understand has brighter LEDs (thanks MJ50 ).
Should be plug 'n play. I'll post an update if it isn't.
Thanks for the write up mikeevo! My '05 third brake light gasket recently failed. I couldn't find it for sale separately, and since the light & lens are fine, I thought I'd try making a new gasket from some weather resistant closed cell foam.
Well that didn't work out so well. I just don't have a steady enough hand to cut the shape evenly. Clearly surgery would never have been a career option for me, lol. If anyone wants to give it a shot, I *believe* that a soft, closed cell 1/8 EPDM foam will work. The stuff I had on hand seemed pretty close to what MB used (taking into account the failed gasket is 6 years old at this point). Unless you're going to make your own die to cut the foam, you'll need to make a template and find a way to hold the foam steady while you cut it with a sharp knife (X-Acto blades were not sharp enough-- I used a disposable scalpel).
After a few failed tries I punted and ordered a new assembly from parts.com. I’m getting the updated 07-09 version, which is cheaper ($110.40 vs. $133.20 for the 03-06 version as of today), and I understand has brighter LEDs (thanks MJ50 ).
Should be plug 'n play. I'll post an update if it isn't.
The newer third brake light is no different then the previous, I've had both. It is not any brighter either. The only difference is that the foam around the newer piece is different so it does not sit as flush as the original, it has a small gap where the foam is visible. Hope that helps.
The newer third brake light is no different then the previous, I've had both. It is not any brighter either. The only difference is that the foam around the newer piece is different so it does not sit as flush as the original, it has a small gap where the foam is visible. Hope that helps.
My new light arrived, but unlike mikey33's experience, it's different from the older light-- the new one has 10 LEDs instead of 20. Nice thick gasket, which appears to have adhesive on the lens side and does have adhesive on the trunk lid side. Like mikeevo advised, make sure to clean the trunk surface very well so that the gasket can adhere properly.
Can't tell whether it's any brighter than a new old-style light (I don't think it's useful to compare vs. my 6 year old light).
Definitely plug and play though, so if you need to replace the light and either want the newer style or want to save a few $$, you can buy the newer version without worry.
sorry to bump this but my Third Stop Brake is kinda dimming out on the right side of it and had a few questions...
AM i able to remove the lens so i can just swap out the LED's off a different one because my third light is smoked and i don't want to replace the lens as well, that way i can retain my smoked lens
sorry to bump this but my Third Stop Brake is kinda dimming out on the right side of it and had a few questions...
AM i able to remove the lens so i can just swap out the LED's off a different one because my third light is smoked and i don't want to replace the lens as well, that way i can retain my smoked lens
Yes you can just replace the led strip and keep your smoked lens, I have a brand new oem led strip for sale, pm me.
Thanks for the reply! FYI I'm working on a 08 CLS 550. I was able to test continuity from the Sam to the plug for the light. Good ground, With the meter at the plug the voltage would start to come up and then go off right away, never enough to make light.
I ran direct power to the light and it worked. I do know of wires braking around the trunk arm but these wires do not run in that harness. I guess this is as far as I go until I can get some more troubleshooting info. Thanks Again!
I was able to take out the circuit board with the LEDs on them. Ordered a new one from eBay seller: matrix-form. I payed $35 and was plug and play. LEDs were bright and looked just as the OEM ones did. Saved me about $100 over buying a whole new light assembly from parts.com!
The old circuit board was corroded and looked as if it had water damage like most people have stated. To prevent this in the future, i spray coated the new board with plasti-dip. Make sure to cut small pieces of tape to cover the LEDs, spray, then pull off tape to expose lights.
Excellent find. I will be doing this myself and report back.
Originally Posted by scmercedesman
I was able to take out the circuit board with the LEDs on them. Ordered a new one from eBay seller: matrix-form. I payed $35 and was plug and play. LEDs were bright and looked just as the OEM ones did. Saved me about $100 over buying a whole new light assembly from parts.com!
The old circuit board was corroded and looked as if it had water damage like most people have stated. To prevent this in the future, i spray coated the new board with plasti-dip. Make sure to cut small pieces of tape to cover the LEDs, spray, then pull off tape to expose lights.
Some LEDs on my 3rd brake light was going out, and eventually they all went out with 3rd brake light warning on my dash. Replaced the 3rd brake light today but it still won't light up and the warning is still on the dash, what else could have gone wrong? TIA
I am trying to replace the 3rd Brake light for my 2008 Mercedes E320, with an aftermarket unit I bought in Ebay for about $30. The tabs for locking the unit on to the edges of the slot in the trunk are plastic moulded and won't flex. This makes it very hard to introduce the lamp cover (Red reflector part) into the trunk. If forced it would brake. The original does not have the tabs. Please see pictures! So, the DIY is not quite simple for some aftermarket parts like this. Or perhaps we end up paying the $150+ and get the original. Further there is no gasket for the aftermarket part. We will need to cut one!! The original has a sponge gasket for making it air tight and there is not even the cork or rubber gasket in the replacement part. If anybody has similar experience, please share!
Thanks, PK Original part of MercedesE320 Original part of MercedesE320 Original part of MercedesE320 Replacement aftermarket part The tabs for locking which really don't flex!
06-15-2015, 01:16 PM
).
