I/C Pump Johnson CM 90
#1
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
I/C Pump Johnson CM 90
Hi guys,
is there somebody who has installed the johnson cm 90?
Is it easy to install and are other fittings needed?
Thank you
is there somebody who has installed the johnson cm 90?
Is it easy to install and are other fittings needed?
Thank you
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2005 S55 1982 300dt
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#8
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wasn't one of the threads saying it flowed too much to cool properly - but I'm assuming you have a better H/E already?
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ses-bosch.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ses-bosch.html
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
One of those things where folks get all excited over their purchase and install and start posting about how great it is, but then without any real numbers to substantiate their claims.
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
So i received it.
Thank you ForrestGump9 :-)
At the moment i still have the stock h/e and now i am not sure how to install it with the 1.1/2'' (38mm)
Can i get there somewhere an reducer???
Thank you ForrestGump9 :-)
At the moment i still have the stock h/e and now i am not sure how to install it with the 1.1/2'' (38mm)
Can i get there somewhere an reducer???
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
I can't find an reducer 1,5'' to 3/4''
Is it possible to install 2 reducer one after the other
1,5'' to 7/8'' and 7/8'' to 3/4'' ?
Is it possible to install 2 reducer one after the other
1,5'' to 7/8'' and 7/8'' to 3/4'' ?
#13
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so yes, if you have an optimal I/C setup - then pump till your hearts content, otherwise you're pushing/pulling hot water too quickly
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E55 AMG W211 - sold, CLS 500 C219, E63S AMG W212
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Wrong! How about you guys show your own testing?? If not, then your wasting typing time and not offering anything helpful to others. Buy the units and provide your own tests as others have. THEN come back and post up.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-vs-wp136.html
there is another floating some where, search for it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-vs-wp136.html
there is another floating some where, search for it.
Last edited by pearlpower; 02-21-2012 at 05:14 PM.
#21
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Wrong! How about you guys show your own testing?? If not, then your wasting typing time and not offering anything helpful to others. Buy the units and provide your own tests as others have. THEN come back and post up.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-vs-wp136.html
there is another floating some where, search for it.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-vs-wp136.html
there is another floating some where, search for it.
#22
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Jaguar STR
I had similar results to Pearpower with the 90 on my current car, stepped down to a smaller GPM pump and saw coolant temps drop over 20 degrees over the higher flowing pump.
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Some might say it is more an effect of cavitation from such a high velocity pump, either way the results for a few are not positive unless you have a rear trunk tank.
Another thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...xperience.html
additional discussion
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...tory-help.html
Waaaay back when when I worked auto parts, folks would come in and complain that their car/truck would overheat when they removed their thermostat. Put in a new one, all was well.
It's a matter of balance.
Another thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...xperience.html
additional discussion
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...tory-help.html
Waaaay back when when I worked auto parts, folks would come in and complain that their car/truck would overheat when they removed their thermostat. Put in a new one, all was well.
It's a matter of balance.
Last edited by pearlpower; 02-21-2012 at 07:10 PM.
#24
For any given heat load, a slower fluid flow results in slower heat transfer. The empirical data (which I'm not going to argue with, I'm no Toadster) says to me that the increased flow causes turbulence in the system, pump starvation/cavitation, or other design flaws to surface, not that the water is moving too fast to transfer heat.
The engine coolant is another issue entirely--on most engines, the thermostat acts as a flow restrictor to keep a slight pressure in the water jackets. This mitigates the localized boiling (around exhaust ports, etc) that can happen. An engine with poorly-designed coolant passages, e.g. the SBC, can have a real problem when the thermostat is removed because they will then have boiling and detonation due to the boiling. Never heard of any similar problems when installing a high-performance water pump or radiator, except when the suction would collapse the radiator hose...interesting. I wonder if that's been checked on with these higher flow pumps?
Derail aside, the CM30 that I installed is working fine, though it's only been a month and I've only seen temperatures in the 75-80 degree range. I suspect that my OE pump was malfunctioning, anyway. I also installed a bigger heat exchanger at the same time so I can't make any scientific claims. I do note that I haven't seen any heat soak since installation, and before it would take about two WOT pulls to about 100 mph with the 180 pulley and the supercharger would cut off.
The engine coolant is another issue entirely--on most engines, the thermostat acts as a flow restrictor to keep a slight pressure in the water jackets. This mitigates the localized boiling (around exhaust ports, etc) that can happen. An engine with poorly-designed coolant passages, e.g. the SBC, can have a real problem when the thermostat is removed because they will then have boiling and detonation due to the boiling. Never heard of any similar problems when installing a high-performance water pump or radiator, except when the suction would collapse the radiator hose...interesting. I wonder if that's been checked on with these higher flow pumps?
Derail aside, the CM30 that I installed is working fine, though it's only been a month and I've only seen temperatures in the 75-80 degree range. I suspect that my OE pump was malfunctioning, anyway. I also installed a bigger heat exchanger at the same time so I can't make any scientific claims. I do note that I haven't seen any heat soak since installation, and before it would take about two WOT pulls to about 100 mph with the 180 pulley and the supercharger would cut off.
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
For any given heat load, a slower fluid flow results in slower heat transfer. The empirical data (which I'm not going to argue with, I'm no Toadster) says to me that the increased flow causes turbulence in the system, pump starvation/cavitation, or other design flaws to surface, not that the water is moving too fast to transfer heat.
The engine coolant is another issue entirely--on most engines, the thermostat acts as a flow restrictor to keep a slight pressure in the water jackets. This mitigates the localized boiling (around exhaust ports, etc) that can happen. An engine with poorly-designed coolant passages, e.g. the SBC, can have a real problem when the thermostat is removed because they will then have boiling and detonation due to the boiling. Never heard of any similar problems when installing a high-performance water pump or radiator, except when the suction would collapse the radiator hose...interesting. I wonder if that's been checked on with these higher flow pumps?
Derail aside, the CM30 that I installed is working fine, though it's only been a month and I've only seen temperatures in the 75-80 degree range. I suspect that my OE pump was malfunctioning, anyway. I also installed a bigger heat exchanger at the same time so I can't make any scientific claims. I do note that I haven't seen any heat soak since installation, and before it would take about two WOT pulls to about 100 mph with the 180 pulley and the supercharger would cut off.
The engine coolant is another issue entirely--on most engines, the thermostat acts as a flow restrictor to keep a slight pressure in the water jackets. This mitigates the localized boiling (around exhaust ports, etc) that can happen. An engine with poorly-designed coolant passages, e.g. the SBC, can have a real problem when the thermostat is removed because they will then have boiling and detonation due to the boiling. Never heard of any similar problems when installing a high-performance water pump or radiator, except when the suction would collapse the radiator hose...interesting. I wonder if that's been checked on with these higher flow pumps?
Derail aside, the CM30 that I installed is working fine, though it's only been a month and I've only seen temperatures in the 75-80 degree range. I suspect that my OE pump was malfunctioning, anyway. I also installed a bigger heat exchanger at the same time so I can't make any scientific claims. I do note that I haven't seen any heat soak since installation, and before it would take about two WOT pulls to about 100 mph with the 180 pulley and the supercharger would cut off.
You may very well be correct. A quick Google reveals that this topic has been beaten to death (on motors) with no obvious conclusion. Incidentally, most lower radiator hoses have springs to prevent them from collapsing. Not all-most, I only sold a few thousand of them.
The bottom line however is the MASSIVE and I do mean MASSIVE pump raises the temps unless a rear tank setup is on place or resistor to slow it down. For those with only stock or an upgraded H/E, the Bosch '10 and CM30 work great.