The dreaded AMG brake job.
#1
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W211 P030 E63 AMG // W204 C63 Coupe
The dreaded AMG brake job.
Hey all. The time has come where the beast needs brakes.
Really not looking forward to this but hey going fast is nothing without stopping right?
So far options are, EVOSport Rotors or BenzWorks Rotors. Most likely going with OEM pads.
EVOSport wants 2,450 for all 4 rotors.
Havent gotten a quote from BenzWorks just yet..
OKAY! Now for the fun part, RATES & REVIEWS!
Whats the best bang for the buck, who has what installed, and whats your experiences overall with these products?
Really not looking forward to this but hey going fast is nothing without stopping right?
So far options are, EVOSport Rotors or BenzWorks Rotors. Most likely going with OEM pads.
EVOSport wants 2,450 for all 4 rotors.
Havent gotten a quote from BenzWorks just yet..
OKAY! Now for the fun part, RATES & REVIEWS!
Whats the best bang for the buck, who has what installed, and whats your experiences overall with these products?
#2
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2007 E63, 2006 C55
E63 Brakes
Not sure what your mileage is, but unless your rotors are at minimum thickness, just replacing the pads will do wonders.
I replaced my front pads a couple of years ago, they were about 80% worn, and just replaced rear pads this year, a little over 50% worn, but they squealed.
I used new OEM pads all around, they do create dust, but my car stops in a dime.
The new pads cleaned up my rotors nicely. I am still on original rotors, no need to replace them, and have no brake issues at all.
I replaced my front pads a couple of years ago, they were about 80% worn, and just replaced rear pads this year, a little over 50% worn, but they squealed.
I used new OEM pads all around, they do create dust, but my car stops in a dime.
The new pads cleaned up my rotors nicely. I am still on original rotors, no need to replace them, and have no brake issues at all.
#4
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W211 P030 E63 AMG // W204 C63 Coupe
I haven't measured yet but I took a look and I'm getting the spider cracks in-between the drills and the slots are worn so low that you cant really see them anymore.
#5
Member
Tony - if you are going to do a brake job, DO NOT get the stock pads. I got Akebono pads, and it was the best thing I ever did. I read that I didn't need to get new rotors, but I got new stock rotors anyway, to avoid any chance of squeeking.
I am pretty **** about how clean my car is, and 2 days after detailing my car, the wheels were black. Now, my wheels are never black. I think I paid $1,000 for the rotors from dealer, and the pads were $250 from Rock Auto.
Do a search on Akebono, you will be glad you did.
I am pretty **** about how clean my car is, and 2 days after detailing my car, the wheels were black. Now, my wheels are never black. I think I paid $1,000 for the rotors from dealer, and the pads were $250 from Rock Auto.
Do a search on Akebono, you will be glad you did.
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#8
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2006 C230SS, 2007 e63, 2009 gl450, 2003 Ducati 749
I got 116k miles of highway driving out of my rotors. I put on racingbrake front rotors for 1k and stock rotors in the rear with stock pads all around. RB does not recommended ceramic pads. akebonos does not make semi metallic pads for the e63. I've since put 2k miles on the new rotors and really like them.
#9
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C63, Grigio Medio E46 M3
Tony, here's another option. Few guys I know have them, and love em. I also agree with the Akebono pads. Had them on my E, and they were great!
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two_piece...ONT_p/2141.htm
EC sells these too.
-Walter
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two_piece...ONT_p/2141.htm
EC sells these too.
-Walter
Last edited by obsidian05e55; 06-06-2012 at 08:49 AM.
#10
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2005 E55 AMG
The proper thing to do is measure your rotor thickness first. If it has enough meat left then you have them turned/ cut for $25 a rotor and re install with new pads. No need to buy new rotors unless they are out of spec.
#11
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Mercedes E55 Amg
Tony - if you are going to do a brake job, DO NOT get the stock pads. I got Akebono pads, and it was the best thing I ever did. I read that I didn't need to get new rotors, but I got new stock rotors anyway, to avoid any chance of squeeking.
I am pretty **** about how clean my car is, and 2 days after detailing my car, the wheels were black. Now, my wheels are never black. I think I paid $1,000 for the rotors from dealer, and the pads were $250 from Rock Auto.
Do a search on Akebono, you will be glad you did.
I am pretty **** about how clean my car is, and 2 days after detailing my car, the wheels were black. Now, my wheels are never black. I think I paid $1,000 for the rotors from dealer, and the pads were $250 from Rock Auto.
Do a search on Akebono, you will be glad you did.
#14
Also check ACG, they have some sweet 4 corners brake package that include everything (4x 2 pieces rotors, endless pads, stainless steel lines and high performance fluid) or just 2 pieces lightweight rotors.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-packages.html
I am running the Stage2 street package and I am very happy with it, I saved 26 lbs, initial bite is nice and firm yet progressive and linear, no noise, very little dust if any, and under hard braking it seems that braking is significantly more harder and in conjunction with good tires, will reduce your braking distance.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-packages.html
I am running the Stage2 street package and I am very happy with it, I saved 26 lbs, initial bite is nice and firm yet progressive and linear, no noise, very little dust if any, and under hard braking it seems that braking is significantly more harder and in conjunction with good tires, will reduce your braking distance.
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E55 w/ goods, Z32 Project underway
Amazing the disinformation on here.
Folks, braking is done by friction. Flat surface against flat surface. Over time rotors no loner have a true flat surface. Simply installing new pads on a worn rotor does not offer improved braking as now you have a new flat surface (pad) against an old rotor which is no longer flat. By driving around you are now placing additional heat on the new pad which in turn can lead to glazing and of course decreased braking (less surface contact area) . You can be very gentle on your new setup for 500-1000 miles and' hope' the new pads bed into the old rotor.
Stop pinching pennies and buy new rotors. This coming from someone that has turned well over 2000 rotors/drums and had my own lathe until I decided it was no longer worth to even turn them (you lose meat)!
Best scenerio-new pads/new rotors. Bottom line. Do not allow your wallet to blur reality.
Also, contrary to the newbie belief that squeak comes from the pad surface. In many cases, especially multi piece calipers it is hardware, not the friction, that causes squeal.
Glazing, (overheating, improper break-in, old rotor) , pad material (EBC Reds comes to mind) can cause squeal.
If you recently replaced your pads and prefer to change, then mic out your rotor for surface irregularities, if recent, many times you can just slap in pads, but if you have 30k miles on them, get real.
Folks, braking is done by friction. Flat surface against flat surface. Over time rotors no loner have a true flat surface. Simply installing new pads on a worn rotor does not offer improved braking as now you have a new flat surface (pad) against an old rotor which is no longer flat. By driving around you are now placing additional heat on the new pad which in turn can lead to glazing and of course decreased braking (less surface contact area) . You can be very gentle on your new setup for 500-1000 miles and' hope' the new pads bed into the old rotor.
Stop pinching pennies and buy new rotors. This coming from someone that has turned well over 2000 rotors/drums and had my own lathe until I decided it was no longer worth to even turn them (you lose meat)!
Best scenerio-new pads/new rotors. Bottom line. Do not allow your wallet to blur reality.
Also, contrary to the newbie belief that squeak comes from the pad surface. In many cases, especially multi piece calipers it is hardware, not the friction, that causes squeal.
Glazing, (overheating, improper break-in, old rotor) , pad material (EBC Reds comes to mind) can cause squeal.
If you recently replaced your pads and prefer to change, then mic out your rotor for surface irregularities, if recent, many times you can just slap in pads, but if you have 30k miles on them, get real.
Last edited by pearlpower; 06-06-2012 at 12:36 PM.
#18
Super Moderator
I would definitely skip on the OEM pads. Lots of better options out there as other members have said. I haven't tried Akebono pads but have heard nothing but good things about them. I personally use Porterfield R4S pads and they are fantastic. Daily driving + a few track events out of the year and they hold up pretty well along with some better brake fluid. I haven't gone to the track with the new rotors but I'm looking to go in the fall. It's just too hot during the summer to have a big car like the 211 on the track.
#19
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I just turned 40k miles on my CLS55..Def need new pads..not sure about rotors. Where is the best place to buy new pads? Also, my ic pump is failing..what is the latest concensus on ic pumps and where to purchase?
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2006 C230SS, 2007 e63, 2009 gl450, 2003 Ducati 749
@ the OP
Be sure that you are following closely and getting the correct info. The E63 pads and rotors are NOT the same as the E55 guys and akebono does NOT make pads for the E63 (at least the last time I checked) I have run into a few issues where E55 guys chime in on my E63 questions and have gotten the wrong info. =)
Be sure that you are following closely and getting the correct info. The E63 pads and rotors are NOT the same as the E55 guys and akebono does NOT make pads for the E63 (at least the last time I checked) I have run into a few issues where E55 guys chime in on my E63 questions and have gotten the wrong info. =)
#21
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2006 E55 AMG
well i was told i need to replace my rotors and pads, my car has about 55k miles on it, it does squeak, but i think i should get a second opinion on the rotors, or stay on these brakes for another 6 months and replace all rotors and pads.
#22
Amazing the disinformation on here.
Folks, braking is done by friction. Flat surface against flat surface. Over time rotors no loner have a true flat surface. Simply installing new pads on a worn rotor does not offer improved braking as now you have a new flat surface (pad) against an old rotor which is no longer flat. By driving around you are now placing additional heat on the new pad which in turn can lead to glazing and of course decreased braking (less surface contact area) . You can be very gentle on your new setup for 500-1000 miles and' hope' the new pads bed into the old rotor.
Stop pinching pennies and buy new rotors. This coming from someone that has turned well over 2000 rotors/drums and had my own lathe until I decided it was no longer worth to even turn them (you lose meat)!
Best scenerio-new pads/new rotors. Bottom line. Do not allow your wallet to blur reality.
Also, contrary to the newbie belief that squeak comes from the pad surface. In many cases, especially multi piece calipers it is hardware, not the friction, that causes squeal.
Glazing, (overheating, improper break-in, old rotor) , pad material (EBC Reds comes to mind) can cause squeal.
If you recently replaced your pads and prefer to change, then mic out your rotor for surface irregularities, if recent, many times you can just slap in pads, but if you have 30k miles on them, get real.
Folks, braking is done by friction. Flat surface against flat surface. Over time rotors no loner have a true flat surface. Simply installing new pads on a worn rotor does not offer improved braking as now you have a new flat surface (pad) against an old rotor which is no longer flat. By driving around you are now placing additional heat on the new pad which in turn can lead to glazing and of course decreased braking (less surface contact area) . You can be very gentle on your new setup for 500-1000 miles and' hope' the new pads bed into the old rotor.
Stop pinching pennies and buy new rotors. This coming from someone that has turned well over 2000 rotors/drums and had my own lathe until I decided it was no longer worth to even turn them (you lose meat)!
Best scenerio-new pads/new rotors. Bottom line. Do not allow your wallet to blur reality.
Also, contrary to the newbie belief that squeak comes from the pad surface. In many cases, especially multi piece calipers it is hardware, not the friction, that causes squeal.
Glazing, (overheating, improper break-in, old rotor) , pad material (EBC Reds comes to mind) can cause squeal.
If you recently replaced your pads and prefer to change, then mic out your rotor for surface irregularities, if recent, many times you can just slap in pads, but if you have 30k miles on them, get real.
#23
Member
From the quick research I did, I dosent look like akebono has pads for the E63, I would recommend looking into Ceramic pads as it will cut down on the brake dust. I run Zimmerman brake rotors on my modded AMG, and absolutely love them (the cost makes them even nicer). I have ran Zimmerman on multiple M3's and have 3 other friends that have AMG's, we all have Zimmerman and not a single issue between us.
#24
From the quick research I did, I dosent look like akebono has pads for the E63, I would recommend looking into Ceramic pads as it will cut down on the brake dust. I run Zimmerman brake rotors on my modded AMG, and absolutely love them (the cost makes them even nicer). I have ran Zimmerman on multiple M3's and have 3 other friends that have AMG's, we all have Zimmerman and not a single issue between us.
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
I love my EBC redstuff pads. If you dont' believe me, see how they hauled down my E55 from 156 MPH to 0 MPH in .2 of a mile.
It's all the video in my sig.
EBC Redstuff baby!
Alex
It's all the video in my sig.
EBC Redstuff baby!
Alex