Overall I really like this mod and think it should be the first mod people should do. Larger HE and adding rear tank will surely improve things but I am personally convinced these chillers are the only way to go for daily driving. I really don't get why there aren't a LOT more people with them on their cars. I paid $1050 installed for mine.

Temps were only 75 degrees today. I have a 2.5 gal top mount tank and the heat exchanger has been removed. I believe a rear mount with an added gallon or so would work better. That or making it so the AC runs at WOT might be perfect. I have never logged my car pre mods so I dont have anything to compare it to. I just want to pass along my findings and you can make of it what you will.

Start car IATs were around 80 today. In less than a minute they dropped to about 60. Within a couple minutes the settled at 51-52 degrees Clearly the cold *** water in the tank is helping a ton with IATs. Water temps dropped to 42 degrees idling. With normal driving and no boost IATs stayed in the 52-62 range. Now on to the more important data which I dont have much of yet.

Did a 0-110 run IATs went from 55ish to 138 I couldnt believe how fast the temps went up ! Now the nice thing is you start out with the car acting like it does when the cars first starts up in the early morning. It also recovers VERY fast. I need to get vids and or time it but it will just about instantly drop below 90 and within less that a minute it is back down to 70 IATs. Sometimes it takes a few minutes to get it back down to the 50s other times it is faster. Not quite sure why.

Punched it without letting it totally cool at about 50 to 90 MPH and they went from 75 to 117. Not terrible but not fantastic either IMO.

Tried to do a simulated 1/4. Did a nice little burn out with temps starting at 52. For some reason they only went up to 65 ish. Staged and blasted to 115 range. I saw upper 130 IATs again maybe even a low 140s on one pass. Again temps drop back down to 70s insanely fast. Very impressive recovery on these things.

Now before I was getting these data logs I did make a last minute trip to the track and wasnt really sure what to make of it. I knew I wouldnt be getting any great times without a dyno tune so went for fun. I was running MT ETs and had a hell of a time getting a good burn out to make them stick. Much harder than my blown GTO was. Here were some of my results. Keep in mind Sacramento reads 2-3 MPH low on the 1/4 traps. another member here runs 10.8-10.9s and traps 125 MPH there. I only really care about trap speeds right now as that is a much better indication of power than a good ET.

First pass I made was right after I drove in , teched in staged and went. Trap was 121 MPH. I didnt expect anything better that 122 at this track anyway pre-tune so I was pretty happy with this. Got back in line leaving the car running the entire time to chill the water. Did another run maybe 15 minutes later. This time the trap dropped to 119.5. Then 117.8. Hot lapped 5 more times in maybe 30 minutes and the traps dropped to 116.5s consistently. It was nothing like when I drive it on the street. The Da only went up 200 so that wasnt the issue. Honestly I was pretty dissapointed. I expected the traps to be the same. The car was idling enough the water should have been cold most of those runs. I'm sure the burnouts probably got my starting IATs a good bit higher on some passes.

Since I know people will harass me for not saying , all I got was 11.8s-11.9s and a bunch of 12 flats. Best 60 foot was a horrible 1.95 60 on DRs ...... LOL. I thought maybe something was wrong with my car but later on with normal driving it was back to its normal self. Almost every pass I could just feel the power drop off on the back half, some more than others.

Last test I did today was going up a very windy hill. Starts at 300 feet and ends up at about 1000 feet. Lots of hairpins but plenty of spots to jump it up to 50-60 MPH. I went up it aggressively. Punching it when I could. Not a lot of WOT but some. Got into boost constantly. IATs never got over 95-100 max. Saw a lot of mid low 80s. on top of the hill I gunned it to 75-80 WOT a few times where I saw some 100-110s. About one block from my last WOT blast to 80 I pulled into driveway and saw IATs at 80 then 70 then 60s all within maybe 1-2 minutes. Pretty cool IMO. So I would say for daily driving and even road courses it cant be beat if you arent going WOT all the time. Better balance of water and full time chilling it could be near perfection.

I'll add more over the next week as I start logging more. I will also get some vids of my IATs during WOT runs for people to really see how it works. I think results would be much better on big runs if the unit could stay active at WOT. That or a larger amount of water but I really dont want to do a rear mount tank.

Loving the new car/mods Car still needs a dyno tune badly but it has no problem breaking my sticky 285s loose pretty hard from 55-60 MPH roll

 

What other mods are on the car?

 

Agreed ever since I did my KC last year I thought the same thing. If you aren't really tracking the car forget the larger HE and tanks just use the KC. Now try using the KC and meth!!!! Works wonders on my car with a 195. You will really since great temps when it's 95* cause your temps will be just like they were today for you. The warmer it is the more of a diff it makes. I have seen mine read as low at 34* in 50* weather.

 

I dont plan to go the meth route. I know it works great but if I was going to do that I wouldn't have gotten the KC.

I think you need some kind of larger tank. Personally I think my 2.5 tank is not big enough causing me some issues.

I read in another thread that our AC compressor is always running. So no real power being robbed from AC being on 100% of the time. I really want to find out how to make this thing run at WOT. It would have to make a pretty big difference on longer WOT runs. It drops IATs so fast.

Maybe what I should do is some more testing where I get into boost for longer runs but not WOT. That should keep it running . would be interested to see the results.

Ether way these chillers really work and work very well for a daily driver. you have to put a LOT of ice in your tank to get temps down to 42 degrees and it will just go right back up. This is like having ice at the push of a button. Well I keep mine going all the time.

 

I think the kc is great for the street. But not for the track. I've driven a E55 w/kc and IATs reached 148. My rear tank and meth never went over 110. And this is in the S FL heat and humidity.

I gained 72rwhp after 6000rpms because the meth cools the top end better than the kc. And you'll have full power through redline. Mine peaked at 550whp and was at 549whp @ 6900rpms.

This is just my .02. I've had the opportunity to install a kc but DID NOT feel the results would benifit better than what I had.

Edit:

You don't need a lot of ice. You just need the right flow pattern and make sure there are no kinks in the lines. I also have a Cobra HE mounted under my trunk that cools the water before it goes back in the tank.
While daily street driving and Mexico runs I add 2 bottles of water wetter to the tank. Works fine and I still have no heat issues and power holds through redline like always.

 

What kind of DA did you have on your runs in sig ? Nice times. What are your power mods ? Were those on meth ?

Yeah I know Meth works very well but its not for me which is why I went this route. Tuning is more of an issue with meth and you have to fill it up a lot if you drive like me . Maybe meth with KC would be the best. I would like to see if I can make this work as good as I want it to without meth first.

The KC needs to be setup so it runs at WOT IMO. I am hoping to find out how to do this soon. That and perhaps I should have done a rear mount tanks so I would have more cold water. A better IC design would certainly help as well.

I really love cruising around with 50 degrees IATs though. Car is so much more alive than before. I have never had my supercharger shutdown since.

 

The runs in my sig are from MIR. The DA was around -1200 to -1500. But I've run numerous 11.0s in 90-100 degree heat with at +1500 DA.

Before I added the meth, with no mod change I was running 11.4s @121-122. After the meth and no mod change I ran 11.0-11.1 @125-126mph. All in the heat at the same track. Also, I'm not tuned for meth. I only use it for cooling and it only comes on after 11psi. So daily driving like I do, I still didn't have to fill the meth tank that often. And trust me, I drive the sh*t out of my car.

But I do think the kc is great for street. Just not for track.

 

Impressive gains. I wonder what your IATs were like on all those runs to compare. Can you hot lap it without losing any MPH ? That is my goal and I thought I was going to be able to but my car got slower and slower.

Wow no tune for the meth ? You must have a tiny nozzle. I came very close to adding it to my GTO (blower) and planned to do it the same way with only water. Most people say you do need to tune for it though even with just H20. What kit did you get and how was the install on it ? Any intake mods to help keep incoming air cool ? I have been wondering if its worth messing with. Maybe just wrap the tubes.

I am also starting to wonder if a faster IC pump might help more at WOT on my setup. The way it recovers so fast it almost seems like the water might be going through too slow and cant keep up with all that heat. I just have the newer type Bosch pump.

I still have hope for this setup at the track. Time will tell. I still think that having the air so much cooler to start will have an advantage over a setup only cooling it after you are well into boost. On a hot day IATs must get very high once you are driving around a bit. With this yours IATs just get lower and lower. Sit at a light and you are guaranteed to see 50 IATs. Hell I actually saw 48 degrees when it was 75 out recently.

 

Just recently came back to the MB world with another E55...my apologies as I've been out of the loop on things.

Who sells this 'Killer Chiller'?

I have the EC H/E and Bosch 010 pump on the car currently. IATs seem fine, though (only DD/weekend the car, never track). The more the better, right? Especially when it comes to temps.

 

Joe Kincaid
Killerchiller.com

 

It makes a huge difference for daily driving. Cold dense air even when sitting in traffic where most cars would get massively heat soaked. You can delete your HE, in fact it runs colder without it, but you need to add either a top mount tank like I have or a rear mount tank. You can just run it with your current IC setup as well.

 

When you ran at the track did you datalog ? What AFRs are you seeing ? I am wondering if you're tune is off with the really cold IATs. Based upon you first run at 121 and then subsequent runs in the 117 range, I suspect you running too lean and are knocking (timing has been pulled). Obviously this is just a guess, but hopefully you can share some datalogs....

 

The real question is, how well will the A/C work on a 90F+ day. MB A/C systems barely keep up in the Florida summers. The newer models are better, but the 220 and 211 chassis get the most complaints at the dealer, mine will work ok after about 30 minutes once the interior cools.

 

Unfortunately I did not have my scanner at that time. We cant even scan for KR on these cars can we ? your timing advance can go up and down and not really know why. I didnt see anything for KR anyway. Guy that did my build suspected it was pulled from high IATs. Without the data logging I will never know. I will be logging the heck out of it now though. When I run the car on the street it pulls like crazy almost every time. to me that seems to indicate the cold IATs arent an issue. Beating on it at the track (10 passes in 1.5 hours) I was probably getting a lot of heat under the hood.

Could it be from high temp on the tranny ? I have heard that can pull timing as well.

 

Have heard from other members that they get super low IATs even in 100 degree humid heat. You should add some extra gas to help with system. If you AC is up to snuff it should be ok.

 

You have to play around with freon and setup for the kc to work great
And no 2 cars are alike
Tweaking

 

With the KC there's a few things fighting you. One is the tiny IC core under the intake, another
is the AC compressor cutting off at more than part throttle. You don't want to f with it to keep up with the RPM either, it'll destroy itself.
Do like RBJ and add a little meth shot to keep it cool and it'll be much more consistant.

Or call Evosport and order one of their top mount intercooler setups, they'll be ready any day now.








No they won't.
Don't order crap from Evosport. They have some nice stuff, but will lie to you repeatedly about parts you have paid them for and not received for months and months.

 

Ill be copying RBJ in the future. I can't imagine loosing any of the lackluster AC we already have. But that's a condition of my environment. If you live farther north the KC sounds great. The consistency of the meth set up combined with its ability to keep the IATs low on a long pull are really attractive.

 

IATs never went over 110. I've also ran back to back to back at pbir. Only lost 1mph over three runs with out turning the car off. I ran a full 1/4 and went straight back to the line. No waiting in the staging area what so ever. Just straight back to the tree.
And I have mid size nozzles. With no tune for it. It's a 50/50 mix of distiller water and M1.

 

This is why we will be talking soon. I lived in Kendall for a the summer of 2008 and raced karts all over Florida and if it works in soflo heat it will work in Houston. Why reinvent the wheel?

 

All I know is my AC works just fine, in fact works very well. The guy who did the install added more freon. To me it sounds like the perfect setup would be a KC plus meth. 50 degree IATs at the start of your run for that extra boost in power then meth kicks in to keep it from going too high. I will be messing with the KC more before adding meth. Will see how it does with AC on at WOT and possibly a better pump. Beyond that meth might be pretty sweet.

RedBull, what meth kit do you have and how was install ? I am still pretty amazed you are running it without a tune. I know a lot of cars can run slower with H20 and no tune to compensate for messing with the AFR. Obviously the timing you are keeping is outweighing the tune issue but I am willing to bet you have a decent amount left on the table if you tuned it.

Edit: I missed you are actually using meth. I thought you were just using water. The 50/50 mix might be giving you the perfect mix so you dont have to mess with your fueling or at least not much. Would like to know more about your setup.

 

To chime in a bit more.

When I ran my 180 my IATs were much lower with the KC than they are now with my 195, even in colder weather during winter. I noticed with my 195 that IATs would be an issue once the Alabama heat and humidity came along, much like the FL heat RBJ deals with but at least we get a brief break. So I had BIP install a Snow Performance meth kit running 50/50 and it certainly keeps the IATs in check.

I don't use any extra tank other than the standard split system and BMW resv. I do find general street driving is just fine as IATs run from 50*-70* from idle to around 50mph. I am a little concerned with highway temps now at cruising at 80mph are giving me 80* or higher. Course the meth kicks in on high speed runs keeping temps low but I feel some type of extra capacity might help but we will see.

As stated earlier the KC is great for those looking to keep temps in check when not using larger pulleys and mainly for street driving with a few quick blast up to 140mph on the interstate. If you plan on more drag racing or anything over 180/185 I would then add meth. I have only taken my car to the track once before moving to the 195/82TB/headers/meth and the KC did just fine, hitting 11.7s on multiple back to back runs. I only use my car as a weekend toy but with the Alabama heat wanted to be sure all available power would always be available to me and feel I have succeeded. KC takes care of me on the street, and with meth really helps on those red light races, and when on the interstate still helps though maybe I could do more but thats where the meth is really king.

Oh yeah and the AC in the cars suck already but I haven't really noticed any ill affects in cooling maybe add 1-2min to reach good cooling from before, but if so, then its worth the trade off.

 

Thanks for the input. I think you would benefit from a bigger top mount tank or a rear mount. I bought my 2.5 gallon tank for about $300. I dont see those high IATs at all on the freeway. Well atleast not right now while the temps are still in the 70s. Mine generally stay in the 50s unless I am getting into boost. I am guessing its the extra amount of water keeping them lower. I did remove the HE so I lost some volume there but was told the HE will typically add 10 degrees to your IATs.

 

I just found a post on another forum for jags. Perhaps I wont do meth with KC .

"I had problems with the piston rings, the car started to use a quart of oil every couple of hundred miles. It turns out the water meth alone is fine but with the Killer Chiller it was turning the mist or steam into water droplets. The water meth is a good idea but not needed with the Twin Screw. "

 

can you provide a pic of your tank installed? and again my IATs were never that high with my 180 which is similar to you 185, but a 195 is a whole new ballpark. plus i still kind of want to do the smaller upper SC pulley, which I feel would then require me to get a tank.