Yes EC has fixed it also, I think it was a bad tune getting passed around like a virus lol
If you don't have it after all this time, I doubt it will come back

 

Jerry told me that every car they have not been able to tune the hiccup out of, changing the MAP sensor did the trick. He did say there were two versions of the MAP under the same part number; one being from Bosch and the other being made in Japan. I got this one at the dealer and it was the only one they had in stock.

 

Sorry to keep bothering you Denroll (and I will get that part number for you too), but just exactly which MAP sensor should I be looking for?

 

I am looking to clarify that now. It is the part number in my last picture. I will see if it should be the Bosch or not. If so, how will we go about getting that one?

 

On the assumption that one of the MAP sensors (either Merc or Bosch) is somehow linked to the hiccup issue, is the zeitronix MAP Sensor not possibly a viable alternative?

 

That gets in over my head. I'm not sure of the voltage range of the Z sensor, and then how to get it to cooperate with the ECU.

But, I just got an email back from Jerry and he says the Bosch sensor is the correct one. That's right, Eff me right in the Bee. Get to do the third MAP sensor change in a week if my hiccup comes back.

I'll try to find a way to get the Bosch sensor.

 

What color is the Bosch map sensor?

 

Chartreuse?

 

Is that French for green or blue?

 

Green

 

Exactly, Bosch is green,

bur is there a difference between Bosch & DC japan, or just a replacement & contracting with other companies..!

VS

ZAYED,,

 

Hi everyone,

I just wan't everybody to know that Jerry at eurocharged is the king of all kings regarding finding and fixing problems. As all of you know I haven't been able to use my car the last 8-10 month because we have been struggling with a map sensor issue which generated the P1107 CIL error saying "The supply voltage to the map sensor is to low". After many many hours in the garage I have almost gave up on this project and was honestly thinking of selling my car even if I couldn't get a cent because of the error. But with the help of my fiancee, my brother, Rob at Needswings and of course Philip(FUBU) I kept the fire going until we narrowed down the problem to the newly installed throttle body(BBK 90mm). I have read on the MBworld forum that other people had similar issues even if the code was different and a couple of days ago I read that mr Jerry found the issue. I mailed him my tune and a couple of hours later I got it back. Today my mechanic put the tune on a chip and after installing it we where crossing our fingers and YES the CIL didn't show up.
I'm the happiest guy in Sweden right know and for the first time I could put the pedal down without feeling that the car is not working as it should. The car is so strong, it pulls like never before. I didn't have my SD card in the DashDaq so I can't put up a log but will do it within a couple of days.

So everyone, if you have a problem in the future with your car Jerry is the one to call.

I also forgot to mention that it doesn't seems to be a map sensor issue. I have the Blue Labeled mercedes map sensor.

There are only one mod left to do and that is the installation of the Killer Chiller. Hopefully it will arrive within a couple of days and will install it right away. I think that the killer chiller and the meth installation will be the answer to our heating issues we are seeing on our cars.

If somebody is interested in a killer chiller please call Joe at 505-275-2665 and say that I sent you to him.

Have a nice one everyone

/Adam

 

^ Which MAP sensor do you have?

On a side note, how many times does your traction control light blink now? lmao

 

Hi, I also have had long discussions with many people regarding the map sensor article number and I have actually order a green labeled map sensor from Rob at Needswings but it seems to be working good with the mercedes map sensor.

Hehe, I think that the traction control light is blinking all the time. Even with the 295/30-19 super sport tires and with the wave track differential in place.

I'm really curious what it will make on the drag. But first I will install the killer chiller and then make a retune to check that everything is 100% as it should and the down to hit the track.

 

^Good to hear. I spoke to Jerry on the phone about this and he said they have been able to fix most of the hiccuping cars through the tune. He did say there was a small handful of cars that still had the hiccup after the new tune, but changing the MAP sensor was the fix. I changed from the old part number to the new one (but not the Bosch) as I still got the hiccup after the new tune, so I will see if I still get the hiccup.

 

Hi,

I can say that I still have a little hiccup but it is so little that I almost cannot feel it. Compare to how it was before it is 100% acceptable and it only appears 1% of the time as it did before. Maybe I will change to the green bosch if it helps it to get even better. But as I say I'm totally satisfied as how it works now.

God luck, I think that Jerry will definitely solve your issue.

/Adam

 

I was putting together my costs on to assemble the parts for mod and noticed major differences in prices in the part# 113 140 09012. (inlet snout)

my dealer wants $460

If I search that number at one of the online stores it defaults to a 2008 rear housing (inlet snout) and the price was about $345.

I came across a thread which indicated the larger 80mm snout could be found on the 2006 SL55. Curious I returned to into the online stores (which don't show the part numbers unless you already know them) used the selection menu instead of the part no. to compare the prices and the 2006 SL55 apparently can be purchased for as low as $221.

Obviously I want the bigger part to do this mod. Can anyone confirm the part numbers are the same before I start clicking buy?

 

That would not surprise me if the exact same part was so much cheaper elsewhere. Example: Dealer wants over $80 for a MAP sensor, but I was able to get the Bosch part for $20.

Which online store were you using?

I see what you're talking about. I have noticed a little hiccup occasionally, but the car does not go into hiccup mode like it used to.

 

here ya go:
http://www.mercedespartscenter.com/p...iagram=5761315

Great thread btw I been studying how you have done this. If that's the right part I will prob mod the part rather than use a plate. Thanks for sharing your information.

 

Thanks. I've been wanting to pick up another inlet to modify it. Scoto has some nice pics of his monster inlet. Made me all kinds of jelly.

 

Sorry for the stupid question, but I want to make sure I understand, just exactly which brand and color MAP sensor is the one that you changed to/ the new one?

Thanks.

 

I am using one with a Bosch label, white with green lettering. The part number on it is 0261 230 191. I was able to order it from my local O'Reilley's. With shipping to their store, it was $25 and it took 7-8 days to get there.

Looking up the Bosch number shows that it is interchangeable with all 3 MB MAP sensor part numbers for our cars.

 

I just ordered this. If its correct I will let everyone know. I asked the vendor to specify the size before shipping. We will see if they read the comments.

 

Did this part come in yet? When it does, take some pics all around it so we can compare it.

I started asking around local machine shops about getting the snout hogged out and modified for the BBK's bolt pattern. If it doesn't cost too much and that cheaper snout that BC928 does indeed work, we might have a viable solution for a more "bolt on and go" solution. That only leaves the cable to deal with, and I can make them pretty easily.

I've been thinking about trying a silicone Y pipe. I found a company that can make custom parts, but they require a CAD file or at least a PDF with drawings/specs. I don't CAD, though. Outer diameter of the TB inlet is like right at 3-5/8" (not a precision measurement) and I want the other ends to be able to accept 3.5" pipes. I figure a full 3.5" inlet with cone filters behind the scoops, a fat Y-pipe, and the hogged out inlet should allow just a tad more airflow than my current setup.

Now I just need to find some good cone filters. Any recommendations?

 

I ordered it, and they emailed me to find out what the VIN number is. I don't want to confuse the issue with them - I just wanted to find out the ID of the TB inlet.

So I have emailed back to just ask to verify the part number, and if the part number matches what "is supposed to" be 80mm, I will make sure they send it ASAP.

They "get it from Germany" (No ****) - so its not returnable. Not a big risk, just doing some due diligence.