Jun 17, 2015, 03:07 PM
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Battery/Alternator Message. need help asap
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: VA
2008 E63 AMG
Battery/Alternator Message. need help asap
I was driving my 06 e55 amg today when i get a message. "Battery low, convenience functions temporarily out" then a little later I get a Red message that says Battery/Alternator Stop Engine. i was close to home so i drove it in garage. When i shut it off a Red message appears again, says " Braking Power reduced then forget the other part. but then i went to open trunk it it doesnt open. no power. I tried to start it again but it dont start. Just a click... what is it most likely, battery or alternator. and why would the brake warning light turn on? thanks for your help in advanced, i know you guys are quick to reply to posts like these and are usually on point
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,835
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From: The Granite State
.
Get ready to spend some money.
Sounds like what happened to me. Alternator died..... lack of charge slowly kills main battery (trunk) and then kills small auxillary battery up front (SBC brakes).
Get both batteries on a slow-charge to get them up to full power again, then make an appointment to have the alternator replaced. Don't swap alternators and start your car with dead batteries. Alternators are NOT designed to charge deeply discharged batteries.....
-G
Sounds like what happened to me. Alternator died..... lack of charge slowly kills main battery (trunk) and then kills small auxillary battery up front (SBC brakes).
Get both batteries on a slow-charge to get them up to full power again, then make an appointment to have the alternator replaced. Don't swap alternators and start your car with dead batteries. Alternators are NOT designed to charge deeply discharged batteries.....
-G
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Joined: Jun 2006
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'03 E55, Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Ducati 748R
The brake warning came on because of the electronics in the SBC Braking System. Without current, you won't have brakes in a very short period of time after the red message comes on. If you lost all power, it could be a battery but it's more likely your alternator, and further likely just the voltage regulator that's gone bad.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: VA
2008 E63 AMG
damn, that is some terrible news!! I mean a voltage regulator doesn't sound that bad. i guess im gonna start with charging the batteries. but then would it be best to check if voltage regulator is bad? anything to prevent having to spend bunch of money unless it infact is the alternator. i mean its only got 80k on it. is it common for alternators to die at that mileage
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 366
Likes: 8
From: Charleston, SC
E55K, Black on Black. C63, Black on Black. SRT-10 NightRunner 363of400
Happened to me 2 weeks ago. After the car would sit for a few days, after start up, it would give me a battery protect warning. After driving it a little bit everything was good. Then It completely quit working while driving.
All the lights started coming on. Brake warnings, etc. And trust me the brakes
DO stop working.
Bad alternator. 800 at my Indy.
All the lights started coming on. Brake warnings, etc. And trust me the brakes
DO stop working.
Bad alternator. 800 at my Indy.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,692
Likes: 5
none
Try this in this order
Check voltage at both batteries at acc and idle
If fine check voltage regulator
If that's fine check BCM Battery Control Module in the back
If that's fine start checking relays/fuses at front and back
If you can test the voltage on your alternator, do so you can eliminate the most expensive problem
I'd rather buy a used w211 OEM alternator than a reman from auto zone. It's a common problem the remans always fail in any Benz. My old c32 went through four in three months with its new owner
Check voltage at both batteries at acc and idle
If fine check voltage regulator
If that's fine check BCM Battery Control Module in the back
If that's fine start checking relays/fuses at front and back
If you can test the voltage on your alternator, do so you can eliminate the most expensive problem
I'd rather buy a used w211 OEM alternator than a reman from auto zone. It's a common problem the remans always fail in any Benz. My old c32 went through four in three months with its new owner
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,649
Likes: 207
'03 E55, Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Ducati 748R
Try this in this order
Check voltage at both batteries at acc and idle
If fine check voltage regulator
If that's fine check BCM Battery Control Module in the back
If that's fine start checking relays/fuses at front and back
If you can test the voltage on your alternator, do so you can eliminate the most expensive problem
I'd rather buy a used w211 OEM alternator than a reman from auto zone. It's a common problem the remans always fail in any Benz. My old c32 went through four in three months with its new owner
Check voltage at both batteries at acc and idle
If fine check voltage regulator
If that's fine check BCM Battery Control Module in the back
If that's fine start checking relays/fuses at front and back
If you can test the voltage on your alternator, do so you can eliminate the most expensive problem
I'd rather buy a used w211 OEM alternator than a reman from auto zone. It's a common problem the remans always fail in any Benz. My old c32 went through four in three months with its new owner
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 95
From: NZ
2004 E55 AMG, 2006 CLS63, 2004 ML55, 2014 E350 sport
Mine was the battery... it was 9 years old so looked to be almost the original battery and had dropped a cell or something. The battery voltage was fine but it melted the rectifier pack in the back of the alternator... after testing the battery with my solar BA9 it was clear the plates inside had failed causing the alternator to overload itself or something trying to charge the battery.
So you cant trust a multimeter test. Buy a solar BA9 battery and charging system tester and never have to guess this **** again.
With these solar BA9 you can test the battery and the alternator accurately.
The one in this vid is a ba7 i think not as good as the ba9
So you cant trust a multimeter test. Buy a solar BA9 battery and charging system tester and never have to guess this **** again.
With these solar BA9 you can test the battery and the alternator accurately.
The one in this vid is a ba7 i think not as good as the ba9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,182
Likes: 15
From: Northern VA
W211
Happened to me last summer on the E500. trouble shooted and ended up being the alternator. Limped to indy shop to get replaced. $434 to replace aux battery and labor on the alternator.
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 124
Likes: 1
From: Dirty Jersey
CLS55TT
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: VA
2008 E63 AMG
so looks like it is alternator. changed the regulator, started up strong, then get messages again on dash. opened the hood and felt the alternator, it got hot really really fast and started to stink as if the copper was burning up...
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 333
Likes: 3
From: JHB, South Africa
03 E55 AMG
Get yourself a voltmeter (they are cheap) and check your voltage with the engine at idle to see if the alternator is producing 12V. If your alternator turns out to be the culprit then I would look at refurbishing your existing one as a cheaper option to replacing it. In South Africa a reputable company will whip your old one out, re-wire, replace bearings, etc and have it back in your car within 2 days for the princely sum of around $ 250.00 and it comes with a 2 year guarantee.
I just went through a similar situation and after 5 minutes with a voltmeter I figured out it was the auxiliary battery, but I planned for the worst and made some calls because a new alternator is horribly expensive.
I can also recommend taking your car to a battery replacement center because they can diagnose your problem, free of charge, with their computers and tell you exactly what is causing the problem.
I just went through a similar situation and after 5 minutes with a voltmeter I figured out it was the auxiliary battery, but I planned for the worst and made some calls because a new alternator is horribly expensive.
I can also recommend taking your car to a battery replacement center because they can diagnose your problem, free of charge, with their computers and tell you exactly what is causing the problem.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,692
Likes: 5
none
Do not get a reman alternator
they do not work in most of these cars as testified by many here.
A lifetime warranty is no good if you have to keep pulling it out every few months to get that "free" replacement
they do not work in most of these cars as testified by many here.
A lifetime warranty is no good if you have to keep pulling it out every few months to get that "free" replacement
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
04 E55 AMG
Have this issue now. Couple months ago left light on in car and battery was dead in the morning. Within days of recharging the battery began to get the Brake warning light.
Checked w dealer and it wasn't SBC Braking system. Now I have these battery warning lights. Thanks for this thread it appears to be my issue.
Checked w dealer and it wasn't SBC Braking system. Now I have these battery warning lights. Thanks for this thread it appears to be my issue.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 1
From: Italy
cls 55 or FIAT Coupe T20v-6speed
Have this issue now. Couple months ago left light on in car and battery was dead in the morning. Within days of recharging the battery began to get the Brake warning light.
Checked w dealer and it wasn't SBC Braking system. Now I have these battery warning lights. Thanks for this thread it appears to be my issue.
Checked w dealer and it wasn't SBC Braking system. Now I have these battery warning lights. Thanks for this thread it appears to be my issue.
your battery is quite surely gone.
Low discharge for long time (leaving some light on) = battery killer
