W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Coilover conversion with pics and....

Old Dec 17, 2018 | 09:33 PM
  #101  
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Coming together now. I have to get a picture of the hubs and half shafts in. Basically ready to install on the car, but have to plumb the tank (and make a tank). Then I can move to the front of the car (Pull the engine, replace chains, chain tensioners, etc).
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Old Dec 17, 2018 | 09:35 PM
  #102  
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 08:17 AM
  #103  
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Damn, great work. A four year hiatus and I wouldn’t remember I had the car, let alone how to put stuff back. I’ll never do this job but love seeing and reading about it.
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 10:47 PM
  #104  
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Oh it’s rolling.
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 09:14 AM
  #105  
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Mind if I ask what your day job is. Where did you get your wrench skills? Envious
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 01:37 PM
  #106  
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Just been doing this for a long time. We all make mistakes, but at least you can fix them if you were in there making them. The diagrams on this car are not as good as my mainstay porsche, or even Chevy, who needs to make sure monkeys can work on them. It is very difficult relatively to find torques for the bolts, as well as clear instructions for certain items. And part numbers are not always clear.

Take the **** apart, replace stuff, put it back together. Add money and time.
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 01:38 PM
  #107  
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It would have taken ages without those bushing tools. Ages. The proper tool can make any job enjoyable. Except for if you work in the sewers. I suppose that always sucks.
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 11:43 PM
  #108  
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Nice to see you still fighting the good fight
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 11:45 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Sir-Boost-a-Lot
Nice to see you still fighting the good fight
Absolutely. Sometimes it takes a while, but I always come out the other end smelling like roses.
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Old Dec 21, 2018 | 11:15 AM
  #110  
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Great project and detailed build info. I was surprised to see all the stock engine idlers on your motor. Mine went out at 29K.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.

CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.

www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 01:00 AM
  #111  
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Been waiting on hearing your impressions on the ride quality for four years.
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 10:05 PM
  #112  
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Ha. I hope this works. Bilsteins should be okay. I have been thinking of maybe finding if theee are stiffer springs for this setup.
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 02:15 PM
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This was an extensive suspension job. Thanks for sharing.

Gus//
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Old Dec 27, 2018 | 07:58 PM
  #114  
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Well, it’s extensive but a) not done, and b) now way more than suspension as the engine is coming out soon for chains and guides.
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Old Dec 27, 2018 | 08:05 PM
  #115  
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Needed some discussion on best course on the rear tank lines and bigger fuel line.

Im going to post some pics and I’d like to hear best practices for where to route the rear tank lines as well as who has done what for a larger fuel line routed safely.



Lots of room behind the rear bumper and easy access to drill holes or use bulkhead fittings.


At the front of the trunk floor area, it would take some fitting to get the hoses routed. I will put the rear subframe in I think to see what I have for room.

Ah. Nice and mostly clean to work with. As you can see the evap line winds it’s way to the back corner.

The smaller line is the fuel supply. Larger line is the vac line for the evap. Someone used this as supplu but I don’t know what they did with the need for evap.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 08:49 PM
  #116  
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 08:52 PM
  #117  
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Problem

UDP rear arm bracket hits spare tire well. I thought these stood out quite a bit. Very strange.

This is is an early version of them. I sure as **** hope the solution for me is not cutting them down because that would be junkyard monkey bull****.

Last edited by BC928; Jan 12, 2019 at 09:36 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2019 | 08:53 PM
  #118  
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 12:07 AM
  #119  
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 12:14 AM
  #120  
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Who else has installed these? Subframe is in. Driver’s side is not allowing bracket on. I’ll have to slice off at least 1/2 inch from the plate.

very strange
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 10:12 AM
  #121  
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This is the amount to cut off
Originally Posted by BC928
Christmas Came and Came...

Attachment 393794

Thanks SHARDUL!


.

I take that back. NO thanks shardul. Looks like the comments that you sell **** you have not developed properly or don’t car to develop have merit. The bracket above was clearly changed later:




Seems that just the place that needs to be taken back was redesigned to do just that - no contact with customers and when I email you confused you just act like you have no idea.

This backwoods monkey bull**** vendor crap gets so old.

Last edited by BC928; Feb 10, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 10:58 AM
  #122  
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Classic Tuner Douche move Shardul. As I said in my email after you suggested I trim the bracket (no ****).

Yes. It does seem that way doesn’t it?

You changed the ****ing bracket in 2016.

So what you are saying is that you sell **** but don’t support it, and don’t really make sure it fits until later and then change **** silently.
And of course you attack the installer instead of even hint that you have changed and modified your product. I knew this thing didn't fit when I mocked it up. I wanted to see what you would do. And you turned "Classic Tuner Douche".

Let me help you with your customer service "Yes, Mr. Customer - we changed this bracket sometime in 2016 after we found the originals DID NOT FIT. My recommendation since you bought this 5 years ago, is to trim "THIS AREA HERE" in a picture I will happily supply to you".

Awesome. Was that so ****ing hard? I sure as **** hope you didn't change the rod ends because you ****ed that up on MK1 as well.

Okay. Done. Play through. This is not rocket science, but it doesn't have to be "Classic Tuner Douche" science either.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 03:56 PM
  #123  
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Well, back on track from that waste of space and time.

Except for that inner bracket, the rear subframe is bolted up with modified rear bolts. Next will be the parking brake, rotors attached, and rebuild the calipers and install. I may move to the front or I may work on the trunk tank. Yes, the axle nut must be tightened and dented. All torqued bolts are marked. If its not torqued, it is not marked.



Last edited by BC928; Jan 14, 2019 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 09:24 PM
  #124  
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Yikes....when the OEM screws up something like that they take responsibility and issue a TSB or recall and get things fixed
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 03:02 PM
  #125  
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In January 2015 I began an install of the UPD camber arms and pulled them off before completing the installation. With the rear suspension still short of full extension, the inboard end of the camber arm fouled the subframe; this caused the entire weight of the suspension assembly to torque the inboard heim joint threads. I decided it was just a failure waiting to happen so returned the camber arms. So...my point is to ensure there is no binding of the camber arms.

I will say, however, I believe the UPD toe arms to be absolutely awesome and highly recommend them. They have saved me literally hours of time when performing alignments.


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