Who does their own detailing? What size DA is ideal for the W211
#1
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Who does their own detailing? What size DA is ideal for the W211
Looking to pick up a DA to do my own detailing. I'd like to buy just one, but will buy two if I need to. Will a DA with a 5" backing plate (the Rupes Duetto in particular) allow me to reach all the surfaces of the W211, or will I also need something smaller for certain parts of the body?
#2
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I've got a Makita rotary and have tried a porter cable DA as well as a Flex 3401. I returned the PC when I got the Flex. Solely use the Flex now unless my father-in-law decides to use my fender as a park bench when wearing his metal studded levi's. I bought the 4" and 5.5" backing plate kit along with an assortment of lake country pads in both 4" and 5.5" sizes. I doubt I could get by with just the 5.5".
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65 Chevelle Wagon w/ C5 frame, 08 ML63, 04 S600, 04 E55,(sold) 00 ML55,(sold) 98 C43-55K Swap
Both good machines. I use the pc only because I've had it for years. If I was buying a new machine I would buy the flex.
#9
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13' E350 4matic, 08' E63
Finally a thread for me to respond too------
Flex 3401 all the way!!!!!!!!!!!! Rupes are great but the non forced rotation ruins it for me one curved panels. The clear coat on Mercs is tough so curves are pains.
Hit me up I was about to list the $50 Flex kit for backing plates you will need. 5" pads are a must, no larger and no smaller on the Flex and you will see the wonders it does. Autogeek.net is the place to buy and the LC 5" Hybrid pads are the ONLY pads to buy. They are made specifically for this machine. You will want 5-6 Orange pads for cutting (using Menzerna FG400) and 5 pads or so of White using Menzerna SF400 or SF4500. I use the 4k with white pad and then tweak the paint using a black no cut finishing pad and the Rupes Diamond polish watered down for less cutting. I only want minimal cut but maximum polish for my last step.
THEN PUT 22ple or Modesta Glass coating on the surface and your set. 800 to 1500 worth of high end work for modest cost of 5-700 and you learn a valuable skill. I use a Griots Garage 3" with blue cutting pad for bumpers and small thin areas, takes time but will do the work. Dont waste your time with anything other than what I said, I promise you will regret not spending the money and doing it once, rather than try and try and try to get products to work.
You will also have to rethink your washing methods/drying methods and normal upkeep. I use the Home Depot micro fiber MF towels for taking off polish or the yellow ones at costco. Either way good for this work. Buy 30 of them (total towels lol) Also buy actual MF washing liquid at autogeek for washing them and dry on LOW heat only. That is proper care for them. I actually wash my car with 10 of them everytime to make sure NO scratches get put in it. I only dry with a Air blower (Sidekick Blaster) so no scratches after washing. People don't know this but 30% of scratches come from washing a car, 70% from drying phase.
Here is a link for you specifically: Feel free to ask whatever question you might have, I have done enough Mercs to know exactly what to use. Read this and this will tell you all you need to know sir. Enjoy!!!!! OH and the car 12k miles later is just as perfect!!!!
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...orrection.html
Flex 3401 all the way!!!!!!!!!!!! Rupes are great but the non forced rotation ruins it for me one curved panels. The clear coat on Mercs is tough so curves are pains.
Hit me up I was about to list the $50 Flex kit for backing plates you will need. 5" pads are a must, no larger and no smaller on the Flex and you will see the wonders it does. Autogeek.net is the place to buy and the LC 5" Hybrid pads are the ONLY pads to buy. They are made specifically for this machine. You will want 5-6 Orange pads for cutting (using Menzerna FG400) and 5 pads or so of White using Menzerna SF400 or SF4500. I use the 4k with white pad and then tweak the paint using a black no cut finishing pad and the Rupes Diamond polish watered down for less cutting. I only want minimal cut but maximum polish for my last step.
THEN PUT 22ple or Modesta Glass coating on the surface and your set. 800 to 1500 worth of high end work for modest cost of 5-700 and you learn a valuable skill. I use a Griots Garage 3" with blue cutting pad for bumpers and small thin areas, takes time but will do the work. Dont waste your time with anything other than what I said, I promise you will regret not spending the money and doing it once, rather than try and try and try to get products to work.
You will also have to rethink your washing methods/drying methods and normal upkeep. I use the Home Depot micro fiber MF towels for taking off polish or the yellow ones at costco. Either way good for this work. Buy 30 of them (total towels lol) Also buy actual MF washing liquid at autogeek for washing them and dry on LOW heat only. That is proper care for them. I actually wash my car with 10 of them everytime to make sure NO scratches get put in it. I only dry with a Air blower (Sidekick Blaster) so no scratches after washing. People don't know this but 30% of scratches come from washing a car, 70% from drying phase.
Here is a link for you specifically: Feel free to ask whatever question you might have, I have done enough Mercs to know exactly what to use. Read this and this will tell you all you need to know sir. Enjoy!!!!! OH and the car 12k miles later is just as perfect!!!!
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...orrection.html
#10
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I have to drive on dirt roads. How do I wash the dust off without scratching? I'd like to buff it, but it would just get scratched again.
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13' E350 4matic, 08' E63
Then for washing ------- I personally would buy 2 packs of MF towels at Home Depot and only use those to wash the car. One towel per panel when washing, then grab another towel for the next. If the car is that bad then maybe two towels per panel. (its called the Gary ?something? method, goggle it)
This will keep your car as scratch free as possible ----- for washing it at least. Then a once a 6 months polish to rid it of minor scratches and every 3 months a sealant. I know winters this would be tough, but even then once a month wash just to try and keep it decent. Point is to keep it off the paint as much as possible to allow the paint to not wear down. Similar to bird crap ---- longer it sits, the more the chemicals in the bird droppings eat at your clear coat, till there is no more left. Keep that in mind. I have washed my car to get bugs and junk off it, knowing that 10 hours later in the morning I will be driving in the rain and getting it dirty again. Price to pay to keep things nice.
#13
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I have a pressure washer. I googled foam cannon... I'm not sure how that helps. I also have a soft brush with a hose connection so it would be continuously rinsed.