E55 Eurocharged mids vs Maximizer long tube headers
#1
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E55 Eurocharged mids vs Maximizer long tube headers
Made the switch from mids to long tubes and it’s a night and day difference. I gained a 1.8mph in my trap speed with similar 3000 DA on 91 pump gas. They actually sound quieter at cruising speeds and louder at WOT.
I have long tubes to x pipe to c63 mufflers.
Mid length headers: Pull against a C6 Z06 with intake only
Long tubes: Pull against a C6 Z06 with intake only
I have long tubes to x pipe to c63 mufflers.
Mid length headers: Pull against a C6 Z06 with intake only
Long tubes: Pull against a C6 Z06 with intake only
Last edited by Das_it16; 02-18-2018 at 02:27 AM.
#4
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I bought them for $1255.00 from VRP. He had them the cheapest compared to other vendors on eBay.
Here’s the link for them: http://vrpspeed.com/index.php?route=...product_id=299
Here’s the link for them: http://vrpspeed.com/index.php?route=...product_id=299
#6
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The front O2’s fit fine but the rear O2 bungs are too far back to reach for the stock rear O2 length. I ended up just coding them out through Star and unplugged the rear O2’s No more CEL.
#7
Member
They fit great. They’re pretty long too. I put a racket strap over the driver’s side engine mount to prevent the motor from turning during WOT pulls and hopefully make the mounts last longer. The clamps that come with it are not the greatest but you can get some nice ones fairly cheap on Summit Racingnkr online. I went and got 3 inch V bands welded on and now they can come on and off whenever I need to work under the car.
The front O2’s fit fine but the rear O2 bungs are too far back to reach for the stock rear O2 length. I ended up just coding them out through Star and unplugged the rear O2’s No more CEL.
The front O2’s fit fine but the rear O2 bungs are too far back to reach for the stock rear O2 length. I ended up just coding them out through Star and unplugged the rear O2’s No more CEL.
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#8
Hard to believe the LT's only give 4-5% more power over the mids when they're side by side like that. Anyway big thumbs up on the v-bands. I plan to do mine the same way to make removing the headers way easier if/when I have to.
On another note though, you need a pretty heavily modded E55 to keep up with a C6 Z06 like in that second vid (or the Z06 needs to be running on 7 cylinders). I ran against a bone stock one at the strip, and he walked me hard like in that first vid (I have EC heat exchanger, LT's, 83 upper pulley, and EC tune). I trapped 118 to his 125.
On another note though, you need a pretty heavily modded E55 to keep up with a C6 Z06 like in that second vid (or the Z06 needs to be running on 7 cylinders). I ran against a bone stock one at the strip, and he walked me hard like in that first vid (I have EC heat exchanger, LT's, 83 upper pulley, and EC tune). I trapped 118 to his 125.
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Das_it16 (10-24-2017)
#10
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
Hard to believe the LT's only give 4-5% more power over the mids when they're side by side like that. Anyway big thumbs up on the v-bands. I plan to do mine the same way to make removing the headers way easier if/when I have to.
On another note though, you need a pretty heavily modded E55 to keep up with a C6 Z06 like in that second vid (or the Z06 needs to be running on 7 cylinders). I ran against a bone stock one at the strip, and he walked me hard like in that first vid (I have EC heat exchanger, LT's, 83 upper pulley, and EC tune). I trapped 118 to his 125.
On another note though, you need a pretty heavily modded E55 to keep up with a C6 Z06 like in that second vid (or the Z06 needs to be running on 7 cylinders). I ran against a bone stock one at the strip, and he walked me hard like in that first vid (I have EC heat exchanger, LT's, 83 upper pulley, and EC tune). I trapped 118 to his 125.
I have TRIED to race 3 C7's from dig at stop lights- none of them would budge. Perfect opportunities too, nobody on the road, night time nice and cool outside... nothing. Probably because it's USUALLY older guys that drive them instead of hot heads like me. Guaranteed I'd lose but it's always worth trying.
#11
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Thread Starter
Hard to believe the LT's only give 4-5% more power over the mids when they're side by side like that. Anyway big thumbs up on the v-bands. I plan to do mine the same way to make removing the headers way easier if/when I have to.
On another note though, you need a pretty heavily modded E55 to keep up with a C6 Z06 like in that second vid (or the Z06 needs to be running on 7 cylinders). I ran against a bone stock one at the strip, and he walked me hard like in that first vid (I have EC heat exchanger, LT's, 83 upper pulley, and EC tune). I trapped 118 to his 125.
On another note though, you need a pretty heavily modded E55 to keep up with a C6 Z06 like in that second vid (or the Z06 needs to be running on 7 cylinders). I ran against a bone stock one at the strip, and he walked me hard like in that first vid (I have EC heat exchanger, LT's, 83 upper pulley, and EC tune). I trapped 118 to his 125.
long tube headers
77 clutched with a 168 crank pulley (I don’t recommend this stack on stock fuel system, it costed me cylinder #8 in my last motor)
82mm throttle body
2 heat exchangers
10 gallon trunk tank (I only have 5 gallons filled in there)
550cc injectors with looped fuel rail
dyno tune from Anthony Lawshee/Race IQ this was on 91 pump gas
about 2 months after the second run with the red C6Z06 I lost compression on cylinder #8.
New motor is in and this is the new set up:
Current mod list:
Maximizer Long tube headers with no cats, no resonator to x pipe to c63 mufflers
185mm ASP Crank Pulley
Stock supercharger pulley
UPD belt wrap kit (prevents belt slip)
NGK one step colder spark plugs
Custom looped fuel rail
Bosch 630cc injectors
Mercedes 82mm throttle body
UPD Intake spacers with Green drop in filters
Frozen Boost heat exchanger
VRP Secondary heat exchanger
Split cooling with 10 gallon trunk tank
Dual nozzle Water/meth injection with a number 3 nozzle on the snout after the throttle body and a number 10 nozzle post supercharger intercooler
Dual walboro 450 fuel pumps w/ cnc billet fuel lid
160 Thermostat
Zt2 Ndash Zeitronix Datalogger
Race IQ ECU dyno tune on 91 pump gas and Renegade Pro 120
Race IQ TCU
Last edited by Das_it16; 10-25-2017 at 03:58 AM.
#12
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Driver's side:
Passenger's side:
Driver's side
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drothgeb (10-27-2017)
#13
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Thanks for that, yeah I was under there the other day wand was messing around, that makes sense. I need a ramps, or a better jack to get the car higher, I could barely squeeze under there with my ****ty little jack.
#14
Super Member
Wow so even with 550cc injectors, looped fuel rail and a custom tune, you think you ran lean on no.8? Thats a bit concerning. Were you monitoring afr:s by any chance and IDC? I am hoping to upgrade to this combo soon, got the kit for it already. But now you got me nervous the 550cc injectors won't cope?
#15
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Wow so even with 550cc injectors, looped fuel rail and a custom tune, you think you ran lean on no.8? Thats a bit concerning. Were you monitoring afr:s by any chance and IDC? I am hoping to upgrade to this combo soon, got the kit for it already. But now you got me nervous the 550cc injectors won't cope?
Our ecu pulls timing in 3 tiers of intake air temps:
95F pulls 3.5 degrees
113F pulls 6.3 degrees
149F pulls 9.5 degrees
The real reason for me losing cylinder #8 was due to the new weaker recall fuel pumps MBUSA is using. The fuel buckets can not refilling/replenish fast enough causing the pumps not being able to supply the fuel needed to the motor aka going lean. This also caused my fuel pressure to drop under 50 psi. If you still have the old school style 55 fuel pumps you won't have this issue. Another thing is the stock fuel hat lid will burn after some time. Mine only lasted 10 months with the new lid and pumps. I since then contacted David from Eurocharged ATX (Austin, Tx) and purchased his cnc billet fuel hat. Now i don't have to worry about the connector getting burnt again. Since i was in the fuel tank I modified my fuel buckets by drilling a bunch of hole in the bottom and sides. Made the buckets look like swiss cheese. I also put in 2 walboro 450s to replace the stock fuel pumps. I did this to ensure I always have enough fuel pressure and volume. If you go with the walboros and you do have the stock fuel pump relay. That will need to be upgraded. I made a harness for each fuel pump to have their own relay and fuse. Now I see 80psi of fuel pressure at idle and 82-86psi at WOT.
Last edited by Das_it16; 10-27-2017 at 12:53 AM.
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AhEmGee (06-21-2022)
#18
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#19
Super Member
Awesome post thanks #DAS, OK so I got a couple issues coming my way then.. I bought a weistek 170mm crank pulley.. Waiting to install it, but now worried about the throwing of belts. Any idea why it does that and is it "fixable" don't feel like spending more money on something I technically have. Also I have the newer fuel pump bucket system, so I can expect that to blow out to.. Wonderful... Thanks Merc.
Last edited by C32owner; 10-27-2017 at 06:34 AM.
#20
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Awesome post thanks #DAS, OK so I got a couple issues coming my way then.. I bought a weistek 170mm crank pulley.. Waiting to install it, but now worried about the throwing of belts. Any idea why it does that and is it "fixable" don't feel like spending more money on something I technically have. Also I have the newer fuel pump bucket system, so I can expect that to blow out to.. Wonderful... Thanks Merc.
1. Long tubes
2. Proper cooling mods
3. Sufficient fueling for the power you're trying to achieve
4. Then go from there like adding more boost or just getting a whipple/weistec instead
Make sure you have some sort of way to log the data with a data logger. This will help you see what mods are doing what.
Last edited by Das_it16; 10-27-2017 at 03:03 PM.
#21
Super Member
Thanks mate, got all the supporting mods already. Running the 77mm upper. I have the PLM heat exchanger upgrade, split cooling, w/m kit, still playing with nozzle sizes and location for best results, have a full exhaust, long tube headers. So my next round of mods is installing the 170 weistek crank pulley, installing 550 cc injectors and getting the fuel rail looped with obviously new tune again. I am trying to eliminate possible belt shredding now after learning about the weistek crank pulley saga and now also concern of the stock fueling with newer fuel buckets oem not flowing enough. I am also living at high altitude and with our summer Temps our DA can easily hit 7- 8000 ft high... Terrible.. Oh yes also have the ndash zt2 afr kit for constant monitoring..
#22
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Thread Starter
Thanks mate, got all the supporting mods already. Running the 77mm upper. I have the PLM heat exchanger upgrade, split cooling, w/m kit, still playing with nozzle sizes and location for best results, have a full exhaust, long tube headers. So my next round of mods is installing the 170 weistek crank pulley, installing 550 cc injectors and getting the fuel rail looped with obviously new tune again. I am trying to eliminate possible belt shredding now after learning about the weistek crank pulley saga and now also concern of the stock fueling with newer fuel buckets oem not flowing enough. I am also living at high altitude and with our summer Temps our DA can easily hit 7- 8000 ft high... Terrible.. Oh yes also have the ndash zt2 afr kit for constant monitoring..
I use a number 3 nozzle on the supercharger snout and a number 10 nozzle a few inches from the supercharger inter-cooler. My intake air temps don't go past 94F with no ice in the trunk tank ambient temps were 78F. That's with a 185mm crank pulley and a stock supercharger pulley. Man that DA is hurting you BAD. I live at 2200ft above sea level and see anywhere from 3000-4500 DA depending on the weather. If you do plan to stack crank pulleys you will need the smaller water pump pulley. Shardul/UPD sells them. When I had the 168mm crank pulley it was less than a 1/4th of inch away from rubbing the stock water pump pulley. So a 170mm might rub. For your elevation I think going weistec blower will give you the results your looking for up in your elevation. When I went from a 77 to a 77/168 combo it wasn't that big of a difference. On the mustang dyno I mostly gained around 40 wheel torque and around 5whp. But the heat went up quiet a bit. Wasn't worth it in my opinion.
Last edited by Das_it16; 10-27-2017 at 08:09 PM.
#23
Super Member
I use a number 3 nozzle on the supercharger snout and a number 10 nozzle a few inches from the supercharger inter-cooler. My intake air temps don't go past 94F with no ice in the trunk tank ambient temps were 78F. That's with a 185mm crank pulley and a stock supercharger pulley. Man that DA is hurting you BAD. I live at 2200ft above sea level and see anywhere from 3000-4500 DA depending on the weather. If you do plan to stack crank pulleys you will need the smaller water pump pulley. Shardul/UPD sells them. When I had the 168mm crank pulley it was less than a 1/4th of inch away from rubbing the stock water pump pulley. So a 170mm might rub. For your elevation I think going weistec blower will give you the results your looking for up in your elevation. When I went from a 77 to a 77/168 combo it wasn't that big of a difference. On the mustang dyno I mostly gained around 40 wheel torque and around 5whp. But the heat was went up quiet a bit. Wasn't worth it in my opinion.
#24
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Thread Starter
Wow only 5rwhp fitting the 168 crank... Damn that's not called for bud. Yea our elevation is 5000ft before taking heat in to effect. Down 5psi boost up here compared to sea level as a result. Don't have the means to upgrade to a full weistek blower setup, would be nice, but not an option for me. Thanks for the heads up on the smaller water pump pulley will check that situ out. Your no 10 nozzle is that pre intercooler or post? I am worried about spraying post intercooler as the sensor is just sending false cold air reading from being blown direct with cool spray.
#25
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Das it6
When it comes to the fuel system I can tell you this.I put in a looped rail, Aeromotive regulator and a return line back to the tank. Pressure set at 70psi. Then at some point removed the factory fuel filter,pressure jumped to 78 psi. Then I removed the factory fuel line and jumped up to the next size , 3/8, and installed a high flow billet fuel filter. Fired engine and pressure was at 92psi. Had to turn down the regulator 3 full turns to get it back to normal. The point is there are some major restrictions in our system that cause problems with fuel delivery. Some guys run 10's I know but to me the system sucks for high output.
When it comes to the fuel system I can tell you this.I put in a looped rail, Aeromotive regulator and a return line back to the tank. Pressure set at 70psi. Then at some point removed the factory fuel filter,pressure jumped to 78 psi. Then I removed the factory fuel line and jumped up to the next size , 3/8, and installed a high flow billet fuel filter. Fired engine and pressure was at 92psi. Had to turn down the regulator 3 full turns to get it back to normal. The point is there are some major restrictions in our system that cause problems with fuel delivery. Some guys run 10's I know but to me the system sucks for high output.
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Das_it16 (10-28-2017)