W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

83mm or 80mm Pulley Clutched.

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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 06:24 PM
  #26  
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SL55, S500
Originally Posted by PieRat
If you take off your plastic intake when looking sth the engine fro the front on the right side youll see a metal braided line going inti the furl rail, make sure thats tight with a spanner. Mine was loose once and leaked petrol onto the engine cover, it was so strange id never heard petrol crackle before as it evaporated on hot engine...it didnt ignite thank the lordie...
I’ll have a look
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 06:29 PM
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Just to confirm its raw fresh petrol smell not unburnt fuel smell?
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat
Just to confirm its raw fresh petrol smell not unburnt fuel smell?
gas station smell. It’s gone now after car is heated up.

seems on cold start. I also noticed it first time yest when I turned key to position 2 to save the stock file for Eurocharged.
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 07:43 PM
  #29  
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Sounds like you took it to a shop? As mentioned, I would check all the ignition leads. They are very hard to clip back in. I ended up making a prybar to get a few back on, they take considerable force. And that fuel line...
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 07:44 PM
  #30  
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Fuel sender etc replaced in the recall?
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 08:00 PM
  #31  
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SL55, S500
Originally Posted by tw2
Sounds like you took it to a shop? As mentioned, I would check all the ignition leads. They are very hard to clip back in. I ended up making a prybar to get a few back on, they take considerable force. And that fuel line...
yea shop did it. One by one with wires.

no idea, I don’t think so. Was that all m113k platforms with the recall. Nothing on the vmi at least.

this started right after plugs done yesterday.

coincidence, I guess I’ll need to check it out again in depth on cold start.
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 08:30 PM
  #32  
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No just e-class so if this is your SL then fuel tank issues are not applicable.

Plugs and leads are the same over all M113 engines.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 08:02 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by karpetcm
I live in California, if i go headers they will be shorties and wont be done till down the line. Smog restrictions and visual inspections plus the headache paying someone if you find someone to pass smog is a complete and utter headache.

Now i got the headers out of the way because that always comes up, im kinda torn not sure wether i should do a 83mm pulley or 80. Dont want to go too crazy on pulley size because a 77 will require way more then the cooling mods i have plus injectors to be safe. My goal is to be about 460-470rwhp as we speak im about 434rwhp. For people who are using a phone i have a Superflow IC Pump and VRP Secondary H/E. I havent seen any threads on 80mm pullies and peoples experience with it.
OP did you go with the 80mm pulley? Also looking at pulling the trigger on one of these. Thanks!
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 08:43 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
OP did you go with the 80mm pulley? Also looking at pulling the trigger on one of these. Thanks!
i did go with the 80mm. If I had to do it all over again I would recommend doing a crank pulley not a supercharger. If you do go with a smaller supercharger pulley get a BWK, belt wrap kit. Me even using a smaller belt and heavy duty, I’m still getting belt slip. I have my BWK ordered and waiting for it to arrive, hopefully I’ll get it soon.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 09:00 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by karpetcm


i did go with the 80mm. If I had to do it all over again I would recommend doing a crank pulley not a supercharger. If you do go with a smaller supercharger pulley get a BWK, belt wrap kit. Me even using a smaller belt and heavy duty, I’m still getting belt slip. I have my BWK ordered and waiting for it to arrive, hopefully I’ll get it soon.
Yeah, I would def get a BWK as well. Do you have any dyno numbers? If not how's the butt-dyno ha?
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 09:05 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
Yeah, I would def get a BWK as well. Do you have any dyno numbers? If not how's the butt-dyno ha?
it does feel like I have more torque but top end HP not so much at all, not sure if I notice a difference. My belt does slip and best boost recorded on my dashcommand app is 10.5 which I think is almost stock boost. Give you an idea best boost recorded before pulley swap was 9-9.5psi. So I’ve always had slip. Not sure how accurate it reads boost but that’s my observation.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 10:24 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by karpetcm


it does feel like I have more torque but top end HP not so much at all, not sure if I notice a difference. My belt does slip and best boost recorded on my dashcommand app is 10.5 which I think is almost stock boost. Give you an idea best boost recorded before pulley swap was 9-9.5psi. So I’ve always had slip. Not sure how accurate it reads boost but that’s my observation.
Ah gotcha. I'm all stock besides 010 ic pump and I've seen over 10 psi. I'm using the torque ap. I may just go with the 76mm sc pulley!
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 10:51 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
Ah gotcha. I'm all stock besides 010 ic pump and I've seen over 10 psi. I'm using the torque ap. I may just go with the 76mm sc pulley!
That actually was my initial goal, I avoided it in the end due to needing way more cooling then I have now. I was told by a couple of mechanics that work on our cars that fuel injectors is really a good idea when you go down to that pulley size. As well with the engagement I have now with the 80mm and I know 77 is not much smaller it would be even worse. There are people who run good numbers with a few bolt on's just with a 83mm pulley. If you don't care about smog I would do LT's first with a good tune. If I were to do it all over again and smog was not an issue I would do this instead. If you need more power then this, I would then do a crank pulley and killer chiller with a trunk tank or underhood.

1. Heat Exchanger
2. Superflow Pump or Bosch10(you already have)
3.Long Tubes
4.Tune
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 10:53 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
Yeah, I would def get a BWK as well. Do you have any dyno numbers? If not how's the butt-dyno ha?
No dyno number forgot that part of the question, I wont do a dyno till I install my BWK. I ordered from ProjectB5 and been waiting on it, from what I've seen I might be waiting for a while longer, lol.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 10:57 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by karpetcm
That actually was my initial goal, I avoided it in the end due to needing way more cooling then I have now. I was told by a couple of mechanics that work on our cars that fuel injectors is really a good idea when you go down to that pulley size. As well with the engagement I have now with the 80mm and I know 77 is not much smaller it would be even worse. There are people who run good numbers with a few bolt on's just with a 83mm pulley. If you don't care about smog I would do LT's first with a good tune. If I were to do it all over again and smog was not an issue I would do this instead. If you need more power then this, I would then do a crank pulley and killer chiller with a trunk tank or underhood.

1. Heat Exchanger
2. Superflow Pump or Bosch10(you already have)
3.Long Tubes
4.Tune
I'm actually up in the air between long tubes vs pulley. Long tubes would be the smart choice but the install seems like a PITA compared to a pulley. I have a frozen boost heat exchanger on the way as well.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 11:04 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by karpetcm
No dyno number forgot that part of the question, I wont do a dyno till I install my BWK. I ordered from ProjectB5 and been waiting on it, from what I've seen I might be waiting for a while longer, lol.
haha I hear ya! Project b5 seems to have the best prices. They have a 600hp package for like 1650 bucks. Includes 77mm clutched pulley, ECU and tcu tune, h/e, and bwk!
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 11:21 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
I'm actually up in the air between long tubes vs pulley. Long tubes would be the smart choice but the install seems like a PITA compared to a pulley. I have a frozen boost heat exchanger on the way as well.
I found someone locally to do it for me for around 250. The thing is with LT's its important to get the heat out quick and it just gives you power everywhere. If you go with future mods like a pulley you want to do, it will benefit greatly. It all depends on how much power you want to achieve. I noticed this car isn't like my Z06 or Camaro's I just throw parts at it and other then a bad install there is no real side effects. With this car if I throw a bunch of go fast parts and depending on what parts I get a crap load of heat and belt slip and have to buy additional parts to get it all working just right. Once you start getting into more boost you really need a good pump, heat exchanger, tank, BWK and even then might not be enough and might need a KC, injectors and not to mention headers would be really beneficial as well. Basically one performance mod leads to a bunch of other mods that should be done, lol.

Last edited by karpetcm; Oct 10, 2018 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 12:31 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by karpetcm
I found someone locally to do it for me for around 250. The thing is with LT's its important to get the heat out quick and it just gives you power everywhere. If you go with future mods like a pulley you want to do, it will benefit greatly. It all depends on how much power you want to achieve. I noticed this car isn't like my Z06 or Camaro's I just throw parts at it and other then a bad install there is no real side effects. With this car if I throw a bunch of go fast parts and depending on what parts I get a crap load of heat and belt slip and have to buy additional parts to get it all working just right. Once you start getting into more boost you really need a good pump, heat exchanger, tank, BWK and even then might not be enough and might need a KC, injectors and not to mention headers would be really beneficial as well. Basically one performance mod leads to a bunch of other mods that should be done, lol.
Yeah, I'm starting to see the same thing. Mainly cooling mods are your best friend. Aside from that, my car really woke up once I got that bosch 010 pump in there. I was heat soaking bad! I'm trying to not have a huge trunk tank or anything like that so I may keep the mods moderate. Like you stated good tune and long tubes.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 12:38 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
Yeah, I'm starting to see the same thing. Mainly cooling mods are your best friend. Aside from that, my car really woke up once I got that bosch 010 pump in there. I was heat soaking bad! I'm trying to not have a huge trunk tank or anything like that so I may keep the mods moderate. Like you stated good tune and long tubes.
Ya If you do a good tune and long tubes with the cooling you have now you will pull more power then me at the wheels. Not to mention the car will drive better. Reason why im doing mine backwards and telling you to do the exact opposite of me is the quotes I was getting for header install was ridiculous even though now I got better pricing on the install but mostly I didn't have a guy to help out with the smog, hehe.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 12:42 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by karpetcm
Ya If you do a good tune and long tubes with the cooling you have now you will pull more power then me at the wheels. Not to mention the car will drive better. Reason why im doing mine backwards and telling you to do the exact opposite of me is the quotes I was getting for header install was ridiculous even though now I got better pricing on the install but mostly I didn't have a guy to help out with the smog, hehe.
Ah I see! Looks like I'll have to spend a whole day turning wrenches. No smog to worry about here in SC but it does get plenty warm.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
Ah I see! Looks like I'll have to spend a whole day turning wrenches. No smog to worry about here in SC but it does get plenty warm.
I would 100% get Long Tubes first and Tune. Worry about the pulley last.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 01:40 PM
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We would also reccomend cooling mods aswell, We are offering a special on our Secondary heat exchanger that can be ran inline with the factory HE. On sale for the next couple days for $209.99, You can also add a Superflo Pump to the HE for only $325, Headers are definitely NOT required for 83 or 80mm Pulley

80 Is the new 83mm, There is really no reason ever to go 83 unless you have a 180 crank

Secondary Heat Exchanger HERE


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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Lriver1004
haha I hear ya! Project b5 seems to have the best prices. They have a 600hp package for like 1650 bucks. Includes 77mm clutched pulley, ECU and tcu tune, h/e, and bwk!
Dont buy into these prices, The products sold by PB5 are of Significantly lower quality than those of Ours, Eurocharged, and UPD, The parts come from the russian federation and are hand lathed not CNCd, The springs and bearings used in the pulleys are cheaper and less durable (Known to snap). our stage one kit is only $1950, and includes everything thiers includes aswell as a Split cooling kit and air filters use coupon code "Legite55" to save 8% and it becomes a no brainer

https://vrpspeed.com/index.php?route...product_id=282
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by VictoryRoadPerformance
We would also reccomend cooling mods aswell, We are offering a special on our Secondary heat exchanger that can be ran inline with the factory HE. On sale for the next couple days for $209.99, You can also add a Superflo Pump to the HE for only $325, Headers are definitely NOT required for 83 or 80mm Pulley

80 Is the new 83mm, There is really no reason ever to go 83 unless you have a 180 crank

Secondary Heat Exchanger HERE


Would it make more sense or be better as far as cooling goes to replace the factory h/e or run your secondary h/e inline with the factory one?
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 02:20 PM
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A secondary + stock will perform better than just an upgraded primary. But secondary + upgraded primary would obviously be the best.
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