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E63 Power Steering Removal and Installation Instructions?

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Old 10-31-2018, 01:02 PM
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E63 Power Steering Removal and Installation Instructions?

My 09 E63's power steering pump failed, locked up. I ordered the pump, pulleys and belt as all of the idlers are now destroyed along with the broken belt. Are there any tips or pointers anyone can provide for this job? Is there a technical write up on this job? I've searched and cannot find anything definitive.
Old 10-31-2018, 01:14 PM
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i think all these parts are pretty straightforward to replace hence the lack of DIY threads. even removal of the belt tensioner is only something like 3 bolts.

i could be wrong though as i haven't done any of this work myself.
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Old 10-31-2018, 01:23 PM
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Just looking at it from above, it looks super tight which is why I'm concerned. It appears that it has to go through the bottom which looks nightmarish as the a/c compressor is in the way.
Old 10-31-2018, 01:41 PM
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https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post7059060

Originally Posted by shimmy1122
I'm not the OP but thought I would answer this as I was not able to find anything when I needed to replace mine. Yes it is possible to do this without lifting the engine. I did it myself.

First you remove the serpentine belt. Then there's two bolts holding the power steering pump bracket to the engine that you access on the front side. You can reach down and get to them with a regular ratchet and torx socket.

Then I removed the front undertray to get access to the backside of the pump, where there are two more bolts. You have to reach up and it's a tight fit because youve got the frame right in the middle of where you are trying to reach. One of the bolts is decently easy to get to with a socket extension. The other bolt closer to the engine was a real pain to get to. I ended up using multiple extensions and swivels to get to it.

After you you remove all 4 bolts, you need to remove the feed and return lines from the pump. The return line is held on by a hose clamp, and the feed line is held on with a large hex head banjo bolt. I removed these lines last because I didn't want fluid leaking down on me when I was under the car. Also, the frame was in the way of trying to remove the banjo bolt, so once the pump was free, I was able to rotate the pump to get better access to the banjo bolt.


Once those two lines are removed, you can just barely get the pump out upwards past the upper radiator hose. Installation of the new pump is just the reverse of this. Make sure to bleed the air out of the system and top up the PS fluid to the proper level!
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Old 10-31-2018, 01:52 PM
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I read that but wasn't sure of the difference between the 2 chassis.
Old 11-01-2018, 12:46 PM
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Attached instruction from WIS. Proceed at your own risk.




Good luck
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
WIS PS pump.pdf (370.2 KB, 536 views)
File Type: pdf
WIS belt tensioner.pdf (286.1 KB, 226 views)

Last edited by Solo wing; 11-01-2018 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 11-01-2018, 03:17 PM
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Thank you very much.
Old 11-02-2018, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ikrazyfoo
My 09 E63's power steering pump failed, locked up. I ordered the pump, pulleys and belt as all of the idlers are now destroyed along with the broken belt. Are there any tips or pointers anyone can provide for this job? Is there a technical write up on this job? I've searched and cannot find anything definitive.
Was it particularly noisey before it failed? Whined a lot at idle / even when not turning the wheels?

Originally Posted by Solo wing
Attached instruction from WIS. Proceed at your own risk.

Good luck
This is great! I'm going to do the PS Pump Reservoir myself to try and give the pump more time (hoping its just a clogged filter). Do you happen to have one of these technical documents for the PS Pump reservoir?
Old 11-02-2018, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 4ShoreRunner
Was it particularly noisey before it failed? Whined a lot at idle / even when not turning the wheels?



This is great! I'm going to do the PS Pump Reservoir myself to try and give the pump more time (hoping its just a clogged filter). Do you happen to have one of these technical documents for the PS Pump reservoir?
Originally Posted by 4ShoreRunner
~87k miles on mine - headbolts failed at ~86k

Lots of PS Pump Whine, going to try and replace the resevoir with the updated part number in hopes it calms down a bit.
What is this updated reservoir you speak of??? I'm pulling my power steering pump today as it FINALLY came in.

Mine started whining just before I drove to Savannah from Gainesville, about 300 miles. I made it there and back, another 300 miles. I went to pull in the driveway and the steering said no and smoke started bellowing out from under the hood. I shut it down and popped the hood as the battery light popped up with a glowing red icon. The belt fortunately snapped but did a ton of damage to the smaller pullies so they all have to be replaced. Nothing else was harmed but the pump itself is clearly locked down.


I ordered the belt, idlers and tensioners from FCP Euro and Amazon for the Power Steering Pump as even Mercedes ONLY sells a Remanufactured pump. RBM of Atlanta wanted $1200+/- to do the job and refused to use my parts. They quoted $510 no core for the pump alone but I did not get them to quote the belt or pulleys. https://www.arrowheadmbparts.com/ has a decent price on the pump but cannot beat FCP Euro on everything else. The only advantage FCP Euro has is the warranty on the pump but it's still a reman and $410.93 + $50 core. The problem with that is there are VERY few rebuilders in the US and it's likely this particular pump comes from the same vendor. Autozone sells the pump with a lifetime warranty for $361.99 + a $40 core.

Amazon pump:
Amazon Amazon

Last edited by ikrazyfoo; 11-02-2018 at 02:21 PM.
Old 11-02-2018, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ikrazyfoo
What is this updated reservoir you speak of??? I'm pulling my power steering pump today as it FINALLY came in.

Mine started whining just before I drove to Savannah from Gainesville, about 300 miles. I made it there and back, another 300 miles. I went to pull in the driveway and the steering said no and smoke started bellowing out from under the hood. I shut it down and popped the hood as the battery light popped up with a glowing red icon. The belt fortunately snapped but did a ton of damage to the smaller pullies so they all have to be replaced. Nothing else was harmed but the pump itself is clearly locked down.

I read here and I think saw elsewhere that the reservoir has a filter that can become clogged and starve your PS pump over time. Some have only replaced the reservoir and their PS Pump has quieted down. I'm hoping that works for me before the pump goes.
Old 11-02-2018, 02:15 PM
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@ikrazyfoo @4ShoreRunner
AMG revised the steering reservoir with a better version. It has an improved filter/screen which prevents the pump from starvation/cavitation. My PS pump started whining after a spirited drive in the mountains, and steering got very heavy. replacing the fluid did nothing, actually it made the noise very loud. Thankfully, I replaced the reservoir before causing more damage to the pump and everything is good as new! completely silent.
My suggestion is that you replace the reservoir along with the pump, IMHO it should be a maintenance item. The reservoir costs around $50 and you will be draining the fluid and taking everything apart, so might as well replace the reservoir at the same time.
The new part # is A0004669502
I attached the WIS instruction for the R&R the reservoir, filling, and bleeding the system (It is extremely important to follow the bleeding procedure, otherwise the new pump will be damaged)
Proceed at your own risk!

Good luck
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
WIS PS tank removal-install.pdf (335.3 KB, 237 views)
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Solo wing
@ikrazyfoo @4ShoreRunner
AMG revised the steering reservoir with a better version. It has an improved filter/screen which prevents the pump from starvation/cavitation. My PS pump started whining after a spirited drive in the mountains, and steering got very heavy. replacing the fluid did nothing, actually it made the noise very loud. Thankfully, I replaced the reservoir before causing more damage to the pump and everything is good as new! completely silent.
My suggestion is that you replace the reservoir along with the pump, IMHO it should be a maintenance item. The reservoir costs around $50 and you will be draining the fluid and taking everything apart, so might as well replace the reservoir at the same time.
The new part # is A0004669502
I attached the WIS instruction for the R&R the reservoir, filling, and bleeding the system (It is extremely important to follow the bleeding procedure, otherwise the new pump will be damaged)
Proceed at your own risk!

Good luck
Awesome! Thank you!
Old 11-04-2018, 09:27 AM
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Got the new pump in last night. Woo was it a pita. It can be done without removing the a/c compressor, the pump goes through the top and making sure that the pump pulley is lined up right upon installation is kinda tricky. I'll post up what tools I used and some pictures later.
Old 11-04-2018, 09:44 PM
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The hell bolt.

The hell bolt.

How to route the 1/4 drive to access the hell bolt.


2 Bolts that must be removed.

MMMMM Chic-Fil-A Chocolate Milkshake...this hampered work for about 30 minutes..haha

I used either 2 or 3 6" 1/4 extensions with 1 1/4 swivel, short 1/4 to 3/8 reducer and a stubby T45. 3/8 extensions were to large.

This will get to the 'hard to reach bolt' on the back of the power steering pump. It's very tricky but with patients it can be done.

The end of the Ghetto siphon that goes into the vacuum.

The end of the Ghetto siphon that goes into the vacuum.

Some new pulleys installed.


This is my Ghetto siphon but it works perfectly for removing brake fluid, power steering fluids, clutch fluids, etc..etc..

Radiator fan removed along with core support cover.

Every pulley here was broken except the tensioner pulley.

look at the failure






The hose clamp tool is used for the clamp on the power steering pump itself. The 22mm wrench is used for the Banjo Bolt on the power steering pump. The soap stone is used to mark the bracket on the back of the power steering pump because I did not remove the a/c compressor. You have to 'reinstall' the pump, put the bolts in loosely, mark the bracket, remove the bolts and reinstall the bracket with the negative cable. You can use a GM style pulley remover but you will have to grind it down slightly so that it'll fit. I was able to install the pulley and remove the pulley by hand without power assistance but it was rough. The side cutters were used to cut the zip tie on the pump, do not forget to reinstall the zip tie as the wire can get in the way of the hell bolt.

Sorry I do not have more pictures but you can barely see anything much less get a camera in there to take really good pictures. Small ratchets are your friend.

Old 11-05-2018, 12:54 PM
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looking good. glad you were able to successfully get everything out.
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Old 12-21-2018, 11:37 AM
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thank you for posting this; I wish I would have seen this sooner I have a new pump and res on the way and will by installing myself (I'm a novice). I just checked and the reservoir order is the new part number luckily. If I would have caught this sooner I might have only done the res but now that I already flushed it, and the noise got worse, I'll just do the pump as well. I appreciate all the info and posting!
Old 12-22-2018, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by anomadtoo
thank you for posting this; I wish I would have seen this sooner I have a new pump and res on the way and will by installing myself (I'm a novice). I just checked and the reservoir order is the new part number luckily. If I would have caught this sooner I might have only done the res but now that I already flushed it, and the noise got worse, I'll just do the pump as well. I appreciate all the info and posting!
Bleeding is crucial as well, most important step. Make sure you have the weight of the car off of the front IE: on Jack stands. I turned my steering wheel lock to lock with the car off first and then checked the fluid. I then started the car and turned it lock to lock 30 times checking the fluid every so often. Once I was satisfied, I inspected for leaks, reinstalled the covers and test drove the car. So far so good. I've gotta get new rear tires now. I'm not sure why the rear wear out so fast compared to the front but w/e, it is what it is.

Also, I'm far from a novice technician and will say that this job looks easy enough from the outside but rest assured it is a booger. Making sure you install the pulley onto the new pump is not easy, at all and even I had to pull it off of the shaft some once it was in the car. I also had to modify a power steering pulley puller to work. If you look above the chalk marker you'll see a silver 'U' shape. That's part of the pulley puller. You can grind it down with a flap disc or green disc, pick your poison and it'll fit the Mercedes pulley without the need of a much more pricey puller. Grinding it down also does not take away from functionality of the puller for other applications as well.

Read through this as well:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7592188

Last edited by ikrazyfoo; 12-22-2018 at 12:17 AM.
Old 12-22-2018, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ikrazyfoo
Bleeding is crucial as well, most important step. Make sure you have the weight of the car off of the front IE: on Jack stands. I turned my steering wheel lock to lock with the car off first and then checked the fluid. I then started the car and turned it lock to lock 30 times checking the fluid every so often. Once I was satisfied, I inspected for leaks, reinstalled the covers and test drove the car. So far so good. I've gotta get new rear tires now. I'm not sure why the rear wear out so fast compared to the front but w/e, it is what it is.

Also, I'm far from a novice technician and will say that this job looks easy enough from the outside but rest assured it is a booger. Making sure you install the pulley onto the new pump is not easy, at all and even I had to pull it off of the shaft some once it was in the car. I also had to modify a power steering pulley puller to work. If you look above the chalk marker you'll see a silver 'U' shape. That's part of the pulley puller. You can grind it down with a flap disc or green disc, pick your poison and it'll fit the Mercedes pulley without the need of a much more pricey puller. Grinding it down also does not take away from functionality of the puller for other applications as well.

Read through this as well:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7592188
thank you for the info! Luckily the new pump comes with the pulley already installed/fastened, so it seems no added effort on the puller, etc. I appreciate it..now on to my other problem....changing the oil today and found the oil cooler drain whole threads are completely shredded; pieces all came out when draining. Maybe the previous owner/shop overtightened I don't know, but now the cooler drain plug will not fasten in. I guess I need to find another while on Christmas break and figure how to install that myself.
Old 11-11-2021, 01:47 PM
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So I have a w212.. and I'm not can't find content related to that specific chassis.. but assuming its the same pump. I noticed there is a torx bolt right behind the pulley next to the two other torx bolts. Does that one also have to be removed? If so, do you need to remove the pulley to access it... and how many total bolts are there? I can't find the one behind the pump. Any photos would be highly appreciated.


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